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Bart Slade

BP Shotgun shells 2F or 3F?

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Howdy!

 

I'm getting into loading BP (planning to "make the switch" to Frontier Cartridge in November or so)...and I have a question for those of you that are already doing this - 

 

I see a lot of advice about using 2F for shotgun shells rather than 3F.  I'm wondering - what's the advantage?  If the 2F and 3F are the same price per pound, why use the 2F?

 

Thanks!

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2F will give you a longer flame, burns slower, less recoil too...  imho

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what CC sez..... and you get more a few more loads per Pound w/ 2F than 3F

 

Lumpys rite too.......... But I prefer 2F 

 

Edited by Silver Sam, SASS #34718L

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I have used both.  3fg seems to be a little dirtier than 2fg in my 12ga loads, but not enough to make that big of a difference.  The convenience of loading 3fg in my percussion revolvers, my 38s, my 44-40s and 12ga outweighs the slightly dirtier shotgun.

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I haven't had any in a while, but I like Fg for shotgun only.  Works fine for CAS and has a little more flame.

Otherwise, yeah it all works.  I had a lot more FFFg than FFg for a couple years and so used that in everything and really couldn't tell any difference.

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2F for 12 ga,

Roll crimp trimmed hulls,

34 gr 2F + 3/4 oz lead for practice,

40 gr 2F + 7/8 oz lead for matches.

plastic wads for 12 yds +

fiber wads for - 12 yds.

Reclaimed lead for all.

Never use pre-lubed fiber wads, huge donut holes in pattern.

 

Worked for me for 12 years plus.

 

AA hulls are once fired and toss ‘em.

Fiocchi hulls last for multi reloads, crimp first with plastic wads, then trim for fiber wads, and cleaner receivers.

 

Just sayin’

Amarillo Rattler

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8 minutes ago, Johnny Meadows,SASS#28485L said:

1F, 2F or 3F. I use what ever I can buy at the best price.

J.M.

 

This  download.png.b7310f1aa020bbe4681812f254c27b9d.png+1

 

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Appreciate all the advice!

 

I'm loading one-fired shells, as well as experimenting with brass shells.    I'll have to experiment with the charge - I've started with 60 gr, but sounds like I should be able to cut that back?  With 1 oz 7 1/2 shot (sounds like I can trim that back a bit too).  Using fiber wads, and experimenting with lubed and unlubed (sounds like unlubed is the way to go).

 

Looks like that Graf reenactor powder will be worth a try, cheapest I've seen so far.  

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8 minutes ago, Bart Slade said:

Appreciate all the advice!

 

I'm loading one-fired shells, as well as experimenting with brass shells.    I'll have to experiment with the charge - I've started with 60 gr, but sounds like I should be able to cut that back?  With 1 oz 7 1/2 shot (sounds like I can trim that back a bit too).  Using fiber wads, and experimenting with lubed and unlubed (sounds like unlubed is the way to go).

 

Looks like that Graf reenactor powder will be worth a try, cheapest I've seen so far.  

 

Kind of depends on if you are shooting reaction targets or knockdowns.  We normally shot reaction targets so any load will work.  But we shot a match that had knockdown on one stage.  Took all 8 shells I had in my slide to get them down.  I use a light charge of BlackMZ but 1-1/8 oz shot. 

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17 minutes ago, Warden Callaway said:

 

Kind of depends on if you are shooting reaction targets or knockdowns.  We normally shot reaction targets so any load will work.  But we shot a match that had knockdown on one stage.  Took all 8 shells I had in my slide to get them down.  I use a light charge of BlackMZ but 1-1/8 oz shot. 

Good stuff to know - the 4 clubs I've shot with so far all have used knock-downs.   

 

I'm really looking forward to all the experimenting I'm going to be doing.  

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Grafs Reenactor is rather corse powder.  No problem scooping but will likely not feed well through powder measures.  I use it for everything including my Confederate Navy 44s. (When I use real black.)

 

 

 

 

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As far as shot goes, I agree with @Amarillo Rattler, 7/8 oz is plenty to get it done.

 

The only thing I disagree with him on is the wads. I used to use fiber wad columns, but switched to plastic wads for everything and regret nothing.

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I use 2fg. One time I loaded up some older 3fg just to use it up and my patterns opened up so much that spotters were telling me the wad only was hitting the target. These were further than normal sass distance as well so distance matters too

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1 hour ago, El Hombre Sin Nombre said:

I use 2fg. One time I loaded up some older 3fg just to use it up and my patterns opened up so much that spotters were telling me the wad only was hitting the target. These were further than normal sass distance as well so distance matters too

If you even shoot clays with these loads best to pattern them first.   I have a stout load using Triple Seven that patterns just like a Gun Club.  I use them when shooting black powder trap but shoot lighter loads at stationary targets.

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One of the delights of shooting blackpowder is the freedom to experiment.  Try several granulation sizes and brands and determine for yourself what gives you and your guns the most fun!

 

 I’m a 2F guy for everything, but make up your own mind.

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I tried FG one time because I heard it made a longerflame. I did not think it was any different to FFG so I went back to FFG in my brass shot shells. Any of the powders work so I agree shoot the cheapest you can find and have fun. DC

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Your starting load is (in my opinion) a mite heavy.  I like 2f for 12Ga.  A touch softer recoil.  You will want to find a good plastic wad with integral shot cup.  Fiber wads with no shot cup will just blow holes in your pattern.  I shoot ALL Brass (Magtech) 12Ga, 40Gr powder, a 10Ga Plastic wad trimmed to a 1 Oz payload.  Has taken down every knockdown I've ever shot at.  Provided of course, I HIT the knockdown.

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Have tried most all powders - cheap and expensive- in various granulations.....MY opinion is:

 

2f GOEX does it all for cowboy action shooting pistol, rifle, shotgun needs. 

 

GG ~ :FlagAm:

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I use 2F in everything now. .38, .44.40, .45 and 12ga.

Last year I ran low on 2F and got some 1F, thought it would be OK for my shotgun, I was wrong. I use a SKB with an inertial reset trigger, the 1F didn't make enough recoil to reset for the 2nd shot. I went back to 2F and it goes bang (actually BOOM) every time. So, the cheapest/most available isn't always the best choice. Kinda depends on your gun.

Also, be sure to pattern any load you make up. Years ago I discovered I was blowing a hole in my pattern. I backed off the powder a little and solved the problem.

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I use 3F Goex

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I use Goex 3f in full case loads in .44 Spl. , 38-40 , 45 Colt ....

And 3.4 CC ( 52.5 Grains ) under 1 oz. of Shot in 16 Ga ....

And 4.3 CC ( 66 Grains ) under 1 1/8 oz of Shot in 12 Ga ....

And boy do those loads dump the Knock-downs right Smartly ....

 

Jabez Cowboy

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I still have a bunch of Goex "Cartridge", and will use it up in my 45 Colts & 12 gauge, then I'll go back to 2F.  I use a Claybuster wad that replaces the old Winchester red, short column in AA hulls.  Never a problem in 34 years!

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Started with this formula, then spent the summer messing around "to save lead and powder".

HA!  What a waste of time. 

For me the formula on the Lee Load All is green Gun Club hulls. Cheddite 209, Lee Dipper 4.0 cc any granulation BP from Renactor, 2F, 3F, it doesn't matter. Claybuster Shotshell Wads 12 Gauge CB1138-12 (Replaces WAA12R) , 1 oz insert for reclaimed 7 1/2 shot, firm pre crimp, firm crimp. Repeat and don't look back.  I will never run out of those cheap Gun Clubs, I'm throwing out a 42 gallon bag full of hulls all colors of the rainbow. 

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