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Griff

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About Griff

  • Birthday 08/04/1950

Previous Fields

  • SASS #
    93
  • SASS Affiliated Club
    Lone Star Frontier Shooting Club

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    60802859
  • Yahoo
    sass93@yahoo.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    McLendon-Chisolm, TX
  • Interests
    Cowboy Mounted Shooting, Hunting and Cowboy Action Shooting

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  1. Heck, even in the 1990's we had a website... maybe not as nice as others, but it contained needed information. You gotta start somewhere!
  2. Hope ya bought plenty! And that ya got what I sent ya.
  3. What GJ said. If I decide to use the same alloy for different cartridges & rifles, I do so knowing each of them will be a compromise. I have 30 (assembled and in "kit form") .30-30 Winchester 94s. The complete and operable rifles cover from an 1898 thru 1980 productions. The almost half are post 1950 and of those they are grouped from the post '64 to just before the AE was introduced. These have the most consistent chambers, groove diameters & bore diameter... ergo, I tend to load them with harder gas checked bullets and the same loading formula. I don't shoot jacketed in anything pre-1907, and keep the cast a little softer, usually straight wheel weights. For my .40-90 Sharps BN and .45-70 I add a little lead to the wheel weights as I shoot BP & smokeless at lower velocities and those two rifles a bit shallower rifling. Depth of rifling varies from rifle to rifle so variations in alloy are warranted. In my cowboy main match guns, I generally run straight wheel weights for the cartridge guns, and pure lead in the C&B revolvers. I have an old target from the first batch I ever purchased in 1990, a bottle that measures 4" wide by 10" tall. If a load in handgun stays on that target at 25 yards, I call it good, and in rifles it needs to be consistently hit at 50 yards. Also from that same batch of targets, I have a "running bear" that's about 3'6" x 3', if you include all four legs and head sticking out... The body measures about 1' high by 18" wide. For long range rifle, I need to be able to keep all hits on the body at 300 yards from my rest. Or on the head for my scoped 1885 which measures about 4" x 6" Other than chrono'ing some WB loads, I haven't shot at a paper target in maybe 30 years with a pistol caliber. If the description of my main match ammo expectations brings to mind the phrase, "...good enough"... you'd be right. If I have a good day shooting, I can usually be competitive with the long range stuff, so... ammo that's only "good enough" doesn't cut it. To be competitive in that arena you need to measure, test, adjust, measure, test, adjust and repeat until you're satisfied that your ammo is the best it can be for that particular firearm. If you want to show up and shoot... and don't care how you finish, then, by all means, just buy some factory ammo and consider it, "good enough".
  4. Those "rings", if there's no slippage with a tight patch down the bore are probably of no concern unless it some form of defect in the stainless. I only have one stainless gun, a S&W mdl 65 purchased in the late 1980s... it's seen many, many thousands of rounds of both inmate made practice ammo and probably a thousand or more jacketed +P jacketed issue ammo (we had to include at least one cylinder full of duty ammo every qualifying cycle (every 90 days). From the muzzle: From the forcing cone: My camera has a pretty narrow field of focus, but... with the naked eye, except for some dust collected over the years of sitting in my safe since its last outing it looks pristine, yet in the bore scope it looks bad.
  5. I've used them in my practice (an occasional monthly match) with no ill effect. But, I'm running 1851s in .36 caliber with a lighter than normal charge, so they seem to act similar to my favored Rem #10, simply split, and with a rake or (in my case) a Manhattan gate, they don't get in the action.
  6. Hmmm... did the SKB 1 or 2 hundred come in a 28 ga.? BP in a smaller container is more funner! I see prices already climbing on FunBroker for another "has-been" cartridge!
  7. Let's see... I have a Stoeger I bought in 1986 for cowboy action... been storing it upright, action closed in the safe ever since. It still has the factory springs installed. Yeah, they may give out the next time I use it... but... why overthink it.
  8. A guy I hunted with had one... I always wondered just how dead a deer had to be to warrant one... One trip I shot 3 deer with my .30-30... he shot once, missed... went home mad... After nearly a week of him poo-pooin' my .30-30, I said good riddance. After my wife once calculated how much a pound of venison cost, I hated to think of what his was...
  9. IMNSHO, "At the Ready" should always be interpreted as firearm in hand and shouldered or whatever position the competitor feels is most "ready" ... but... since it is not an official SASS starting position, match directors are allowed to impose whatever conditions their devious little minds decide on.
  10. Secondly, one caution about loading shorter ammo. The '73 can a range of ammo lengths, but it's limited to the length of the ramp on the front of the carrier. I have 3 toggle link Uberti rifles, 2 1873s and an 1860, (same basic action as the '73 in its Uberti incarnation). Each has a slightly different length to this ramp, and therefor, can accommodate different lengths of ammo. Using Ammo shorter than the SAMMI length of 1.6" for the 45 Colt will allow a portion of the 2nd to last cartridge loaded in the rifle to protrude into the carrier, as the only thing to stop it is the last cartridge loaded. As the lever is operated, moving the carrier up, this ramp allows that 2nd to last cartridge to be pushed back into the magazine and out of the carrier mortise. Finding that minimum length can be the secret to holding cartridges without forcing that last cartridge in to remain twisted on the carrier. Which usually entails loading your own.
  11. And here I was thinking he'd just been reading the "bones" for his inspiration...
  12. Sights can be changed and safeties dealt with. For light .38s might be worth a look... or even a test...
  13. It's been many years since I bought my last pair of Paul Bond boots in Nogales, AZ... but they're holding up well. They're not just a glitzy Hollywood maker. If your uppers are still in good shape, consider having them resoled. It can be difficult finding a good shop for that also, but... if they fit good, why toss 'em?
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