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Silver Sam, SASS #34718L

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  • SASS #
    34718
  • SASS Affiliated Club
    Lonestar Frontier Shooting Club, Comanche Valley Vigilantes. Texas TinHorns and Ft. Parker Patriots

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    TEXAS!
  • Interests
    CAS, Shooting, Electric Mountain Biking, Motorcycles, Jeeps, RC Racing, Steam Trains & collecting Vintage Pocket Watches.... and "LET'S GO, BRANDON"




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  1. Jed I.... Good Video!! But Here's a couple of tips for Ya..... The LH Sideplate will come off much easier if you'll loosen up the Lifter & Lever Springs First. And when you're reassembling, after the Bolt-firing pin Assy, Hammer & all is back in place, but before you put the Links back in.... Put the Carrier, Lifter & Lever and their springs all in and all held in place with the screw through the LH sideplate But the screw not all the way through the frame, about 1/8" from home.... and the LH Sideplate needs to be upside down so you can get access to both sides...... Don't worry once you get the Links back in you can still easily rotate the sideplate counter clockwise into place and finish snugging everything back down Those two steps will make the job much easier! Give it a Try on you're next video
  2. 14.382 cents per primer w/ Tax, Shipping & Hazmat..... That's about $4 per Stage just for Primers.......... OUCH, That Hurt!!!! But, It'll keep me Shootin' fer awhile longer at least
  3. I can remember buying ammo for my .22 at 7-11 when I was about 13
  4. I have a few, mostly RR Grade from late 19th & early 20th century..... Here's one that I carry fairly regularly. It's an Elgin 17 jewel 3 Finger Bridge pendant set, mfg in 1900 It's not RR Grade, but I really enjoy carrying it because of the glass back Display Case it's in. Let's you watch it ticking away 122 years and it still keeps Perfect Time!
  5. Nope.... The original Nickle plating was done at the same time I had the engraving done and had rubbed through in several places, was starting to have rust issues. So I send them to APW Cogan and they redid the finish in Hard Chrome. Yep, That was my post but the pictures in it were when the Nickle finish was new.... like 15 years ago er'so........ I dont think I will ever be able to wear off the Hard Chrome.
  6. And a friend of mine had them do a '73 carbine in the same finish... It Looks Awesome!
  7. I ended using https://apwcogan.com/ For the brushed finish Hard Chrome They are Really Good Folks !!!! Here are the guns today..........
  8. I had the stock Hammers lowered on my Rodeos years ago...... I'm pretty sure Boomstick does that...... https://www.facebook.com/BoomStickGunWorks/
  9. Here is the OP that shows how to modify a Miroku Carrier in a '66 or '73 so that it will quit throwing your empties forward......... I use to get about 5% of my brass back.... Since the mod I average around 90%....
  10. I agree 100% Those undeserved Buckles go to Goodwill.... I figure maybe some kid would like one to hold up their Pants
  11. Same as above except I use a #22 bushing that drops 12 grs. of Clay Dot The Targets stand no chance as long as I do my part.
  12. I've owned an Uberti .22 '66.... And That is Good Advise!
  13. I only have a couple of Elgins.... One looks nice & tries to run, but needs some work.... unfortunately the repairs would cost more than it would be worth. You could have it "Cheap" The other is a Very Nice & Very Collectable BW Raymond, RR Grade... But I'd need something around $500 to think about letting it go. I do have a few really nice and good running what I call "Cowboy Watches" but they're all either Waltham or Illinois & maybe one Hampton Let me know if you're interested........
  14. It's different for everyone..... Ya just have to try em Both and see what works best for You. Personally I prefer a SxS.... an SKB in my case. I own a couple of em...... They Never break, knockwood! If you do go with a '97... You'll need 3 in your rotation One to Shoot, One in your cart for a Backup and One will be in the shop getting fixed.....
  15. Some Great Choices !!!! I always loved watchin' Smiley Burnett......
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