Abilene, SASS # 27489

Dang, Larsen, I'm using the 8 pound WST keg for pistol and shotgun since last year and have a LOT left. But then I seem to recall you mentioning recently that you were doing more shotgun sports lately?

A few months back I did some rough calculation using my latest prices, which were the current going price for Cheddite primers and magnum shot and WST powder. I did not add in for hulls because I can always find those. Reclaimed shot would have lowered it, but it came to about $7.50/box for 7/8 oz CAS loads.

When the P-Juniors first came out, Cimarron was saying that the grip was the same profile as regular Model P. But they are thinner, as the backstrap is thinner, so the center spacer is thinner to match. If that is true about the profile, then it seems that any grips made for the Model P / Cattleman might fit the grip frame, but if 1 piece grips then would need a narrower spacer piece. When you say gunfighter grips, do you primarily mean thinner? When Evil Roy was testing out his Model P's before committing to the ER line at Cimarron, he took either a band saw or a belt sander to the sides of his grips to make them thinner. They looked crappy but he shot them that way for quite a while.

On my 550 with a press light (not sure which one, came with the deal), I can look down and see powder in the bottom of the case (currently 3.2 gr WST. Can't see the whole bottom of the case, but just enough to see that powder is in there. That is the first thing I look for after each priming stroke before rotating the shell plate.

Needle nose

I've done some rudimentary DIY beads on my carbines. First, I cut off a little piece of 1/8" brass welding rod and JB Welded it to the front sight. But my carbines all seem to shoot high for CAS so I wanted the bead a little higher. So I took a longer piece of that welding rod and shaped it a bit with a file, then JB Welded that to the top of the sight. On another, I filed a notch in the rear of the sight, then made a bead from a Winchester large pistol primer (tap out the firing pin indentation and smooth), cut a notch on one side, and JB Welded that to the sight. All worked well, although they would eventually get knocked off at the loading table or something after some number of years and I'd have to replace it.

My "just in case stash" has two cases of LNLR that I bought a year or so ago before starting to reload, when they were the only ones that I had seen for a year before that. With tax and shipping they were $200 each.

1604 & Nacogdoches in NE SanTone. They are also one of only a couple in Texas (he told me) that carry RCBS reloading gear and some reloading supplies which are very geared to rifle shooters. I bought my digital reloading scale there and cheaper than major outlets.

It "should" but there have been little changes over the years and the holes don't always line up just right, so it could need some fitting.

Since the problem did not exist before and now exists in two rifles, I would suspect the ammo. My best guess would be the first cause mentioned by Garrison Joe above, primers not fully seated. That robs some of the hammer power. If you still have any of that batch of ammo, stand them all on their bases on a very flat surface (like a mirror) and see if any of them rock. I think if the newest batch of primers from Federal were harder, we'd be hearing more reports.

Walmart by my mom in San Antonio has had them on the shelf for several weeks. Same price. It has been tempting to pick up a few but have resisted since I am reloading my smokeless shells now for about $7.50/box with current prices.

Very interesting. I will have to investigate this more!

okay, I guess "Someone" is me.

I've never thought Wolff springs were very light. Try putting a washer, like a #10 stainless split washer, or a piece of leather with a hole punched in it, between the spring and the frontstrap. This will lighten it a bit more. I generally do this regardless of which spring I'm using. If you ever have a problem with hard primers, it is easy to remove the washer for more power. If you still want it lighter and smoother, there are plenty of 'smiths who can work on it. Griner certainly but too many others to name. Where are you? If you can avoid shipping, that would be nice. There is a list on the site here somewhere of gunsmiths. Someone will link it.

When Navy Arms was selling some gussied up (Turnbull I think) Mirokus, didn't they advertise it as short stroked? There was some question about that and I don't know what the answer was, as to whether they were just referring to the shorter stroke than Uberti or if something had been done to modify the Miroku stroke. I do know that for a very casual shooter, the Miroku is sprung much lighter than Uberti out of the box so feels much smoother.