Colorado Coffinmaker

Odd man out here. I have never used any of the concoctions, to thinners, or odd polishes. I run a cap full of Dillon Case Polish in each batch and I run Walnut Media (Lizard Litter). I don't look for "new" looking brass, just clean enough to reload.

Got mine from S & S Firearms a good while ago.

I'm not even saying you won't save a bundle by loading/reloading. The actual savings will depend on the volume reloaded. Some shooters, shooting three maybe four matches a month will amortize much faster than the folks only shooting one match per month. The actual cost needs weighed right along with the acquisition of loading equipment. In my case, when at one time I was shooting about a thousand rounds a WEEK, I amortized in a rather short period of time. It's one of those "It Depends" (not the ones in the plastic packages) sort of things. Once amortized, the savings for our ammo can be spectacular. It just may not be immediately obvious.

Ah well Horace, All is well, until you factor in your expenditure on all that reloading gear 🤪 It takes a goodly while to amortize all that equipment and realize real actual savings. 🤠 It took me a godly long while to amortize my Dillon 650s. I no longer consider the brass into the equation. After the first load and reload, I consider it amortized and "free" going forward. Since I can't buy factory ammo in my preferred loading, I consider ALL my reloading as profit. PLUS ONE fer Lone Rider - Absolutely

Ima little late to the party. However, I think I know which "spring screw" was the subject. Usually the big issue are the screws to the Lever Side Springs. The screw is not necessarily over tight. The problem is the spring Boss. the back of the spring is not contoured to fit the contour of the frame. This causes the screw to be "cocked" in the threads by the spring boss and the spring boss won't fit flat to the frame. Rather than fighting with the screw, after removing the side plates, Turn the side springs out of their resting places on the Carrier Block Arm and Lever Cam. This takes the side loads off the threads and allows the screws to be easily removed. With properly fitting screw drivers of course. Before reinstalling the Lever Side Springs, contour the back of the spring boss to fit the frame or yule just have the same problem over again, whether hard screws or not.

Sorry Rye. That's really a darn shame. Better luck next time you betcha!!

Some Judicious rubbin-n-buffin to eliminate the rough spot would be a great start.

Well, there is more excitement sitting out inna parking lot watching the bumper rust out from under the chrome. I have absolutely no inclination to watch Soccer. At all. Ever. For any reason. 🤑 I would however, be well willing to set a lawn chair up with Blackwater for some Girls Beach Volleyball 🤪

Ha!! None of the above. I just dump my brass inna bag at the range. When I get home, I dump the brass inna bucket of water with a goodly amount of 45% white vinegar then rinse, dry and tumble.

PLUS ONE fer Blackwater you betcha. Driver was also punching the breaks (Brakes Otto - twer Brakes) and came close to flipping the car over. SCORE: BISON - 1 CAR - 0

I don't know the Depth/Speed differential. I do know the widely published "speed" potentials are nowhere near accurate. Butt and However, the first True operational submarine was the German type XXI. That boat was designed and intended to be faster when submerged than when on the surface and it was. The Type XXI could outrun Destroyer Escorts when submerged and running on it's electric motors. As a further aside, the Type XXI also had huge influence on the design of our Nautilus which sorta copied the hull form of the Type XXI.

Historically, the Allies plan was initially to conclude the conflict in Europe while generally containing Japan in the pacific. That plan also concluded there would not be an end in the Pacific prior to 1947. Those were decisions between the United States and Great Britain. The events at Midway changed that dynamic. Rather than just containing Japan, subsequent to Midway, full scale assault in the pacific was initiated.

While I did install several of these on '66 and '73 carbines, I never actually "fix'd" it. Suggested then and still do, mark the center line of the barrel (5mm pencil) and the center line of the sight, then check frequently they align. It's a nuisance but it works quite well. Also, be careful not to bang the front band on a prop/stand.

Wrong is Wrong no matter who prints it WRONG 🤠 Hey Pettifogger!! Describing FACT as "BS" is Disingenuous. Of course, the "Long Colt" myth has been bandied about so much, many actually think of it as correct. Repeat misinformation long enough, loud enough, folks will actually start to believe it.

The Morgan 3 Wheel is a hoot to drive on English "B" Roads. Not so much out on the Motorways. Out on the Motorway, you suddenly come to the realization those driving cars can't really see you, and if they do, they don't really care.

Hey Little Tom, You know there is no such thing as 45 LC (45 Long Colt), right?? Carrying on, you won't notice much, if any, difference between standard and magnum primers. Some "Magnum" primers have more Brisance than standard, but a light load is still a light load.

I was gonna comment on how many popsicles you'd have to heat to get enough stix. Then I saw the big wrapped "package" of virgin popsicle sticks. AT'S CHEATING!!

I have always kept Maps on hand for the areas/routes I plan to travel. I mostly prefer the Handy Folding maps that are plastic coated. I also rely heavily on GPS Navigation Systems. The "on-board" nav system in my previous cars was quite nice once programmed. However, it was an absolute pain in the butt to tell it where you wanted to go. I find it really handy for alternate route information if your current route becomes untenable. Presently, I have discovered Apple Car Play and using Apple Maps for navigation. Absolutely superb and frequently updated with the most current road information. The OEM "on-board" nav system for my current car truly SUCKED!!

I have and really like the Roller Bearing conversion on both of my 650s. I have never seen and am not familiar with a "Primer shutoff" nor a "Case Feed Shutoff." The Dillon low primer alarm works rather well. The case feeder has its own shut-off switch. The powder check works really well to alert to over charge/under charge. I don't see the need for a "lock-out" die. Just pay attention to what you're doing. After filling the primer feed and the case feed, cycle the machine SIX times without the case feed running to move primers into position. Then turn the case feed on and have at it.

Hey Lone Rider!! Barleypop be talking about the "66 Style" ladle (Loading Gate) for the 1873, NOT for the '66 itself. BARLEYCORN. Simple R&R until it isn't. The Boogie loading gate may hang up on after-market links (Short Stroke) and need some judicious filing to clearance. Part Two: I have them on my '73s and like them a lot. Much better than the Uberti OEM Ladle. Worth the bucks they are.

Allow me to comment on TWO areas of concern. First, The Rifle. Virtually indestructible!! However, just a mite rough and glitchy. I would strongly suggest (regardless of intended use), sourcing a parts kit and tune up DVD from Nate Kiowa Jones (StevezGuns) and changing out the OEM springs and follow the DVD for some judicious rubbin-n-buffin. The rifle, when cleaned up, can be very fast indeed. Also, shimming the right side cartridge guide to just "kiss" the cartridge will eliminate stovepiping. Now the Ammo, 45 Colt cases WILL NOT obturate to seal the chamber in stock form. Ergo, you're going to get Blow-By. You might mitigate "some" of the blow-by with full house loads and heavy bullets. Or, you night not. You can, however, eliminate Blow-By by annealing the upper third of the cases. The case will then expand to seal the chamber and the rifle will run as clean, if not cleaner than Dash caliber rounds. Annealing a pile of cases is righteous boring but well worth the effort.

I KNOW!! I KNOW!! ASK ME!! ASK ME!! It's fer sure a Rusty Old PAPER WEIGHT!! Oh, wait, oops, Itza 22Cal Old Rusty PAPER WEIGHT!!

PLUS ONE fer Pat Riot you betcha

PLUS ONE fer Forty !!

There are many different "kinds" of plastic. Some are brittle and some are pliable. Doesn't matter if they are "clear" or not. If your item has to open and close, softer pliable boxes will last indefinitely (Berry's Boxes). Boxes more toward solid/brittle need hinges (Dillon Boxes). Just depends (not the plastic package kind).