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Flames from sides of cylinder when firing


Coot

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Forgive me im new to single actions. Just shot my new ruger vaquero and it had some pretty good size flames that shot out the side when I was firing it. Is this normal? I was shooting 38 specials. Nothing heavy duty. Just googled it. Looks like the cylinder gap width should be smaller possibly. Not sure ill have to research it some more. Thanks in advance for any help

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Where there is a gap you will get flames. Some ammo will do it worse then others. If you think it is too much just take it to a gunsmith who can measure the front cylinder gap and see if it is in spec or not.

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For lead .004-.008 less for jacketed  buy a feeler gauge and check.  More for a 22  .Try some different ammo.

 

Happy New Year

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It may depend on your powder. I used to have a .357 that put on a heck of a pyrotechnic show at dusk which was fun. As others have said, check the gap on both revolvers to compare. I have a few Uberti revolvers that have no visible gap, which may cause issues if I use them heavily. There is a reason you are not supposed to hold a revolver around the cylinder with the support hand. Flame can be normal. A gap is required to prevent cylinder drag as carbon builds while shooting.

 

 

 

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Way back when, I learned not to steady a 454 on my left arm! Won't do that again with a revolver:lol:.

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Depending on caliber, type and amount of powder, you will get more or less flame, but you always get some.

If you want a LOT of flames, use black.  If you want less, experiment with different smokeless powders till you find what you want.  Or, don't worry about it.

 

OR

 

 

Get yourself a Sheriff's model in .44-40 and load it with black.  Lotsa fire and smoke.  :)

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5 minutes ago, H. K. Uriah, SASS #74619 said:

Depending on caliber, type and amount of powder, you will get more or less flame, but you always get some.

If you want a LOT of flames, use black.  If you want less, experiment with different smokeless powders till you find what you want.  Or, don't worry about it.

 

OR

 

 

Get yourself a Sheriff's model in .44-40 and load it with black.  Lotsa fire and smoke.  :)

Back when I used to go the Friendship for the NMLRA spring shoot, they held a night fire to entertain the folks. Fire and Smoke, what a rush I got, as the song goes.

 

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 He is not talking about BP or 357 rounds. Buy a feeler gauge and some other brand of 38 and buy some books  and learn.

 

Best Wishes and Happy New Year

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If your hand loads do not have enough powder in them they will not burn completely. Then the unburned powder is  spread around your revolver. A subsequent shot will ignite the 'extra' powder and it looks like you are shooting black. I had that issue during the covid powder shortage. Gotta say, while it looked cool, it freaked me out a bit. Now that I have more powder I load them up better and no issues. At the time I was using the lightest liad that would leave the barrel.

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Flames are not really a problem per se when emitted from the cylinder gap at the front of the cylinder... It can be a indicator of a problem... But, it's when it also spits lead that you have a serious problem.

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Besides those reasons given above,  the amount of cleaning solvents and/or oils in your gun can enhance the

flame effect.

 

..........Widder

 

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3 hours ago, Griff said:

Flames are not really a problem per se when emitted from the cylinder gap at the front of the cylinder... It can be a indicator of a problem... But, it's when it also spits lead that you have a serious problem.

And if it is spitting jacket material from USAF .38 Special ball ammo from a Navy reject M10 it is time to reschedule your annual qualification and go to the local gun store and buy a M19 to qualify with! Which is what I did in 1967! :o:P

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On 1/1/2024 at 6:44 AM, Texas Jack Black said:

For lead .004-.008 less for jacketed  buy a feeler gauge and check.  More for a 22  .Try some different ammo.

 

Happy New Year

What he said!

Some guns have a gap of only .002, but most have slightly larger just in case.  Most fall in the range Jack mentioned.  .01 or above is a little too much .

 

Try to slip a peace of 20 lb paper between the front cylinder & the barrel,  If that works, try 2 sheets.  Each sheet should be about .003.

 

Also, put in an empty cartridge in the cylinder and have the hammer down to test.  If there is any "cylinder shake" that can make a slight difference.

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2 hours ago, Eliphalet R. Moderator said:

The brand and type of powder you use can affect muzzle and barrel flash,

 

muzzle-flash-comparison.jpg

Ahhh that may be it. I'm shooting fmj 38 specials. Not sure on grain ill check after work. Ammo was a consideration I thought about but wasn't sure. I just wanna make sure my gun is safe and functional.

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This is my hand holding my 1872 open top, shooting BP.  Happens every time I pull the trigger, apparently.

 

Holler

IMG_3899.JPG

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On 1/1/2024 at 5:43 AM, Cholla said:

It may depend on your powder. I used to have a .357 that put on a heck of a pyrotechnic show at dusk which was fun. As others have said, check the gap on both revolvers to compare. I have a few Uberti revolvers that have no visible gap, which may cause issues if I use them heavily. There is a reason you are not supposed to hold a revolver around the cylinder with the support hand. Flame can be normal. A gap is required to prevent cylinder drag as carbon builds while shooting.

 

 

 

This is also the reason why rifles with revolving cylinders fell out of fashion (this design predates lever actions).

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Do what I do, close both your eyes just as you pull the trigger. 

 

I shoot smokeless and I only have one handgun that I'll see the flash on. It's a Mason-Richards 51 in 38 LC/38 Spl. I'm thinking that the long barrel has something to do with it, and the gap. Partially it's a matter of timing, IOW, the the burning rate of the powder and when and where along the barrel peak burning and pressure occur. I also suspect it has a bit to do with the nitroglycerine content of the powder. I don't see it all the time, but fairly often. 

 

You see it with BP as it burns for a long time, well past the muzzle.

 

I'm thinking that for our game, the gap isn't all that critical. Mine run from about 0.003" to about 0.017". I'm more concerned with the rotation or wiggle in the cylinder when locked. That seems to give you the odd flyer. If you look at some of the guns from the real west, they were worn and sloppy. I think the Italians cloned a few of those. 

 

BB

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5 hours ago, Cyrus Cassidy #45437 said:

It's called "sideblast" and it's normal with ever revolver, whether single action or double action.  Try wrapping a piece of paper around a gun when you shoot it.  It makes confetti.  


I do this as a demonstration for every new shooter I take to the range.  They remember it.

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18 hours ago, J-BAR #18287 said:


I do this as a demonstration for every new shooter I take to the range.  They remember it.

 

16 hours ago, watab kid said:

i like that idea - keeps folks from putting their hands in harms way 

 

Yep, I do it as part of my pistol class (the NRA allows us to add to, but not take away, from their approved lesson plans).

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4 hours ago, Cyrus Cassidy #45437 said:

 

 

Yep, I do it as part of my pistol class (the NRA allows us to add to, but not take away, from their approved lesson plans).

it would be nice to think folks would be intuitive about this but obviously a lot are not , but then i was taught as a young person that not only is that cylicer gap a potential issue because of the blowby but if it doesnt index exactly as designed it could also produce shrapnel which will be potentially hazardous to ones health 

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