"Big Boston"
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Everything posted by "Big Boston"
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For my purposes, that is good information. It does show me what the dippers looked like. Unfortunately the 10M is not listed in my chart, but a 258 has 47 gr of AL-7 listed as it's charge. I have a question on the shot dipper, it looks like the adjustable one from the era. My 16 ga in the old red box has a shot dipper that you flip the bottom over to switch from small to large. I've used these to cobble some 16 ga 2 9/16 for my 1897. Although the LEE Loaders were introduced after 1900, I do think of them as "Cowboy" or "Bunkhouse" tools. BB
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Kid Rich: thanks. I picked up 2 sets of the old black/red dippers a few years back just for these occasions. The sets were mostly complete, one wit notes on what dipper to use for 303 Br. My asking on "The Wire" is one of the resources I've tapped into. So far, I did find a picture of an old Charge Table, an original, just one load with a #10 (pre black/red) dipper. The load is 1 5/8 oz shot . Al-5 powder, 44 gr. I found a reference chart, and an original #10 is equivalent to a red/black 230, so I exchanged the 258 that was in the kit with that one. I e
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I picked up one a few years back. It's in nice shape but I discovered it only has 2 9/16 chambers. I shied away from lengthening the chambers, and did buy a box of period ammunition so I could test fire it. I also discovered a few nice loads, but roll crimping was a pain. I bought a Russian roll crimper, and had issues with the brass rotating and not holding the hull, so I just abandoned the project, the shotgun is in the safe. Love the gauge, but it has it's challenges and nuances for sure.
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I saw a couple of LEE loaders advertised locally, priced reasonably(ish), and picked them up. The 20 ga and 16 ga were mostly complete but the 10 ga kit is missing the shot dipper, the powder dipper is probably incorrect and it does not have the charge table. I'd like to complete the set, and I've been searching for a copy or a picture of an original charge table, so I can print it out. More for collector reasons as I don't own a 10 ga at this time, and the data on those charts is mostly obsolete. Alternately, if someone could share their favourite load,
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I have a '66 and a '73, 38 Spl and 357 Mag. Most of what I've experienced has been covered in the above posts, may take a bit to sort out the wheat from the chaff. I started with the '66, and it did take a bit of learning. As stated above, the shape and position of the metal is important to feeding. One big difference between the '66 and the '73 is the loading ladle. The feeding in the '66 can be fine tuned with some adjustment to the tab on the ladle, or put another way, if the tab gets bent or mutilated, it can effect feeding. I have the trapper versio
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I was shooting a '94 Winchester, and used 200 gr lead. 9.5 gr of Unique is a good consistent load. Under that it gets a bit more position sensitive than I like. At, or a bit below 7.5 accuracy goes for a poop. At 6.6 if you don't raise the muzzle and settle the powder against the primer, it's not accurate. I suppose, if one was so inclined, a bit of dacron would work. I'm not a fan of filler loads. I settled on Red Dot, about 5.5 gr gives good accuracy. Blast plate, not in my vocabulary, I'll have to search that up. BB
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Remington 2 1/2 LP primers have worked well for me. My chrono numbers seem to indicate they give consistent and reliable ignition. My testing has taught me that there is no magic primer that works with every combo, not in the real world. Caveat: If you size the flash hole to match the primer, then the magic happens. I've experimented with this, and it works, but it also opens up an avenue to another bunch of unknowns, and I leave the flash holes alone, except for uniforming and deburring, sometimes. If primers go green, expect some flash hole changes. I've oft times been intrigued
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So true, soon after buying a basket case 97 and one that would not take down I realized what was going on.
"................ I can't tell you how many 1897's I've seen for sale at Gun shows with the mag tube in upside down. I've been allowed to fix a lot of them for the owners, in just 10 minutes with my Swiss Army Knife and they've been very thankful. Some just don't care and say NO, it'll sell anyway.
You can't believe how much easier it is to take down and put together a proper '97 with everything right. No forcing of parts and it works so much better. I was wondering if your Mag tube was in correctly, or upside down. The little piece of Metal with the 2 small screws holding it on the tube in front of the wood should always be under the barrel, not on the bottom when assembled. The later ones had a pushed up bump instead of the screwed one on the tube...again under the barrel, not on the bottom. That way the interrupted threads can line up with the ones in the receiver correctly. Just sayin'"
I couldn't have said it any better. That and putting the ring in backwards. Also found one where the nimrod filled off most of the nub on the ring, so it would work, yikes.
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I have lived in a rural area for many years, and over the years have shot a bunch of different DIY targets. My latest were cut from a bunch of 3/8 Hardox 400 cutoffs. These seem to work real well. Steel targets work best when they can deflect the bullets, stopping the bullet dead on requires a very strong steel, anything under 400 will crater with a direct blow. There is only so much force a steel plate can absorb before it yields. Any steel that is cratered should not be shot. Pieces of bullet will fly straight back at you. Several hits in your torso or head will convince you. Also, any proj
