Springfield Slim SASS #24733

I used to make donuts when I was younger. I found that if the fat was the right temp the donuts flipped themselves over. Flipping them a couple of times sounds like a good way to soak up way too much oil. Kinda like a recipe i saw recently for french toast for stay at home dads. It said to soak the bread in the egg mixture for 5 minutes. Sounded terrible, and I love french toast.

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I bought this planning on using it as a pocket pistol but always end up using my break tops. In nice shape, I have never shot it but it has been fired. Looks like original nipples on the cylinder. Locks up tight. 175.00 plus 15.00 shipping.

Don't know the name used by British gunsmiths. But Webleys don't have a bolt similar to the SAA's we are used to. The small notch in the front is used by the spring loaded 'bolt' but it isn't that great at holding the cylinder in place, just helps. It's main purpose is to keep the cylinder from turning while the hammer is at rest, like most non Smith and Wesson top break revolvers do. The rear elongated notch on the cylinder is used by the projection on the top of the trigger assembly, which actually holds the cylinder firmly in place when firing, and helps with correct indexing of the cylinder to the barrel.

Because no matter how hard you try you will never get the calipers square to the hole perfectly every time. Machinists use pin gauges, just more accurate. But in this case accuracy over 1 thou probably isn't necessary, so your calipers might be good enough. I have heard boring out the cylinders to better match the ball size helps accuracy, but as close as most SASS targets are I have never bothered.

Kinda hard to drive out a ball on a cap and ball cylinder. Are you saying to do it through the nipple hole?

How exactly is the Uberti more authentic than the new Henry?

If I only needed 200 bullets I wouldn't have bought a Star either. But I load for 4 people in my family, so the Star is the fastest and still does a great job. My rule of thumb is ,if you load on a progressive press you probably need a Star, or at least an RCBS or Lyman. If you use a single stage press, pan lubing is probably fine for you. But if you are sizing already with a LEE or something and THEN pan lubing, that is really wasting time. A lubrisizer can do both at the same time

I have a belt I started making for my son, but made a mistake and mis-measured. It is a 27-33" belt, so a touch smaller than you asked for. As long as you don't want me to put any cartridge loops on it I would sell it for 35.00, plus shipping. Kinda difficult for people to see if they have a holster for you since you don't know what revolvers they are going to end up with.

Find an older RCBS Pro and go with that. And get a temp guage, just makes things better. I am down to 1 LEE, which I keep threatening to make into a shot maker, 2- RCBS and a Magma. I cast for 4 people as I couldn't afford to shoot if I didn't reload, casting is just part of that for me now. Plus 2 of us shoot BP, so even more worth casting my own. If you use a soft alloy and your mold casts close to what you need you don't HAVE to size them. But you are going to have to lube them anyway so might as well get a lubrisizer. Alox is messy, pan lubing is time consuming and coatings take more equipment, and isn't all that fast to do either.

I don't do lip prints but I do put scent in the bullet lube! Makes my shop smell nice.

This seems like a good place to post, as it deals with things for sale. All good advice, with the addition of using the USPS Priority Tyvek bag is a great idea as it is almost rip-proof.

No one has a stretched '51?

Are Pacific bushings the same? They are on e-bay all the time.

I use spitoons.