Marauder SASS #13056

That should be nice!

To check the flag, open the action. Then watch that thin flag as you slowly close the action. The flag should pop up as you begin to move the bolt forward. As Mark mentioned, the purpose is to ensure the shell does not escape. A problem with the 1893 model was sometimes the shell could partially escape and the right cartridge guide/extractor would hit the primer and make a very bad boom. The flag was designed to avoid that problem, so it needs to work properly. http://marauder.homestead.com/Shotgun.html And youtube is your friend.

We are praying for her and her family.

Yes, the general standard for steel in China is not up to the American standard. Not a surprise at all since it was a socialist country and that is what happens. But there can be individual cases where they make top quality. Norinco/IAC had incentive to make better steel and a cowboy gunsmith worked with them very closely to improve their quality and it worked. I sure miss the days that the U.S.A. was the leader in industries that make stuff.

From what several gunsmiths have told me, the steel is better in the copies. You can even hear the difference when you cycle the guns. Steel has improved so greatly since WW 1. The last couple of years of the Winchester productions were generally using up their inventory. They were still well fitted but were almost "parts guns" comparied to when they were in their "hay day." Some folks talked to Winchester many years ago when SASS was really going and asked if they would ever remake the 97's. The lady on the phone said in a rather clear way, "No." They were a rather complicated hand fit gun.

As a side note about mercury, ever hear the phrase "mad as a hatter?" Hat makers used mercury to work and shape the hats. It worked great, but the hatter was breathing in mercury with effects the brain, So gradually declined (eventually voted democrate) and later had to be put away.

The IAC were very close copies but with two major differences. 1. They use metric threads 2. They used much better steel compared to the originals. The imports do vary some in quality but most are excellent once a little tuning is done. Originals can be slicked up very slick since they have weaker steel - so they are very slick but will wear much quicker. But since you plan to shoot them rarely, that shouldn't matter much. (I wore out 2 Winchesters after just a few years while my Norinco and IAC are still in very good shape with only a couple parts replaced.) As to the A and B models, those refer to the Winchester 1893 models. Winchester made a major change with the 1897 and started with the C model. Then the D and finally the E. They made different models (C&D and later D&E) at the shop at the same time. Evidently it was up to the individual craftsmen. Essentially al 97s are marked as having 2 3/4 inch chambers, but they measured them with the roll crimped shells in mind, so none met the modern standard for 2 3/4" chambers. But they are still safe to shoot since the forcing cone allows the shell to fully open. BUt you will have increased pressures since there is very little of the forcing cone left. So unless you have a thin barrel as was sometimes used in the fixed version, you can readily lengthen the chamber and forcing cone to reduce pressures. Below is some of the information I've collected from many folks over the years. The top portion deals with the 97's. http://marauder.homestead.com/Shotgun.html

I hope that doesn't mean that we can hurt their feelings ! Hope they work even better that the old ones.

Check for "hammer pinch". This is where the hammer in rest position is a little to tight against the transfer bar. Now, if I can remember the test. . . Have gun empty. Then cock the gun and pull the trigger and continue to hold the trigger back. Now slowly release the trigger. The transfer bar should be free to drop down. If the hammer is pressing on the transfer bar, it increases the likelihood of breaking the transfer bar. The fix. Some would thin the transfer bar since it is the cheaper part, but it will weaken it. Most will slightly reface the hammer area where it touches the transfer bar - thus freeing up the action as it should. To be clear, this in NOT where the hammer hits the frame. It is that second notch down that will be touching the transfer bar. Of course you don't want to remove any more than is needed. For a better description, look at Driftwood Johnson's post, see #12. https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/ruger-new-vaquero-transfer-bar-pinch.649912/

Howdah pistols. Handy for the occasional tiger. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Howdah_pistol https://www.davide-pedersoli.com/scheda-prodotto.asp/l_en/idpr_35/pistols-howdah-hunter-howdah-hunter.html For a smaller version: https://www.taylorsfirearms.com/hand-guns/cartridge-revolvers/howdah-pistol.html

Look at the parts: http://marauder.homestead.com/files/97parts.htm The diagram isn't the greatest for explaining, but.. The slide is locked by the action of 70 - 74. Specifically the lock is 71, the long slim part. The release plunger you mention is part 22. It presses on the back of 71 to push it into the carrier (68). These parts work in conjunction with the spring that is inside the action arm area, part 16. It is likely that part 71 and the piece it fits into is messed up a little bit and catching. Or the area around the spring (70) is dirty and not allowing it all to work properly. Something else to look at is spring 16, but you must remove the action arm to see it. And there is a special tool needed to remove the action arm nut (15) - without damaging it. As an alternate, you can use a spray cleaner in hopes to clean out around part 15 if you cannot have someone get the action arm off.

Actually ALL 97 came with chambers made for a shorter, roll-crimped shell. They are marked as 2 3/4 but it was a different standard - not for the "modern" star crimped cartridges. Some barrels may be a little thing but the vast majority can have the chamber and forcing cone slightly lengthened safely.

Also since someone mentioned the "safety notch" - check that area and the trigger sear. If you are pulling the trigger a little early, it is very easy to cause wear between the notch and the sear. I reworked mine so it was not as easy to catch, but that is not for everyone.

https://shootersworldpowder.com/wp-content/uploads/shooters-world-manual.pdf Lists a few loads, but not what I would like.

I remember takin that picture! It was a slow Thursday.

Yes, but don't you feeeeel sooo much safer!??? Remember, it's not about safety or innocent lives - it's about control. Yes it is so very sad.

"Rifle was properly and safely discarded as a malfunctioning gun." was in the original post.

Try as we may, we have never fully recovered for mixing the definitions of misses and procedures.

Well said!

Good horse sense too

A couple of hours can make a huge difference in both comfort and functionality!

I started with a metal cart but it had two problems. One, it had smaller wheels. Two it was heavier than needed. So I went to buy some replacement wheels. I found they cost more than the plastic based cart with good wheels (wider and a little larger), so I have used that for about 12 years or so. I do not have a pick up so it must fit into the trunk of my car. Since we travel some, I always look for a little larger trunk so I have a Ford Taurus and a Chevy Impala, both with adequate trunks. The Chevy's was a little shorter, so I shortened the handles to more easily fit. If I had an even smaller trunk, I can use quick disconnects to hold the metal handle, then just remove them for a much more compact fit. I have my box always loaded, A few small tools, hearing protection,and replacement parts, about 75 rounds of shotgun shells and plenty of room for rifle and pistol ammo. That really helps so I can just load the box into the trunk and I'm ready to go. So it is a great time-saver before I even go to the range. And since it is two & possibly 3 pieces, it is easy to load & unload, and distributes weight well. I see many great carts, but you must have a pickup or SUV to use them. Then you have to load them into the vehicle - which is normally awkward. Since I'm getting older, I have to think of such stuff more. So I find module is much more versatile.

They are very helpful, but you can do one inexpensively with minimal tools. I built my first one using a an inexpensive hand cart. For the box, I used left over fence wood with regular saw, some screws, some glue, and part of a dowel. I think it was less than $50 back then and not much more now. I was going to upgrade, but never needed to and I liked that it came apart so easily. http://marauder.homestead.com/irons.html The cart: http://marauder.homestead.com/files/GunCart.html Funny thing, at one regional shoot with hundreds of great carts, a picturre of my lofwly cart made it into the Atlanta Newspaper's article about the event.

Fast Eddie does both - country AND western. Gunslinger is a good choice for the Baikel as is that 92 fella, Kiowa Nate... And Lefty, 3 Gun and several others. We are blessed.