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Marauder SASS #13056

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About Marauder SASS #13056

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  • SASS #
    13056
  • SASS Affiliated Club
    Doc Hollidays Immortals, Macon Cowboys, South River Shootists &Cherokee Cowboys, SBSS #44

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    http://Marauder.homestead.com/cowboy.html
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    Georgia
  • Interests
    Shooting, computers, history

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  1. Yes, the general standard for steel in China is not up to the American standard. Not a surprise at all since it was a socialist country and that is what happens. But there can be individual cases where they make top quality. Norinco/IAC had incentive to make better steel and a cowboy gunsmith worked with them very closely to improve their quality and it worked. I sure miss the days that the U.S.A. was the leader in industries that make stuff.
  2. I didn't weld it.  All I did was use a file/stone and removed the notch on the hammers. 

     

    No need for welding.  Just make sure there is no "catch" for the sear there.

     

    1. Purly SASS # 57438

      Purly SASS # 57438

      Thanks. I thought I might be able to do that.

  3. From what several gunsmiths have told me, the steel is better in the copies. You can even hear the difference when you cycle the guns. Steel has improved so greatly since WW 1. The last couple of years of the Winchester productions were generally using up their inventory. They were still well fitted but were almost "parts guns" comparied to when they were in their "hay day." Some folks talked to Winchester many years ago when SASS was really going and asked if they would ever remake the 97's. The lady on the phone said in a rather clear way, "No." They were a rather complicated hand fit gun.
  4. As a side note about mercury, ever hear the phrase "mad as a hatter?" Hat makers used mercury to work and shape the hats. It worked great, but the hatter was breathing in mercury with effects the brain, So gradually declined (eventually voted democrate) and later had to be put away.
  5. The IAC were very close copies but with two major differences. 1. They use metric threads 2. They used much better steel compared to the originals. The imports do vary some in quality but most are excellent once a little tuning is done. Originals can be slicked up very slick since they have weaker steel - so they are very slick but will wear much quicker. But since you plan to shoot them rarely, that shouldn't matter much. (I wore out 2 Winchesters after just a few years while my Norinco and IAC are still in very good shape with only a couple parts replaced.) As to the A and B models, those refer to the Winchester 1893 models. Winchester made a major change with the 1897 and started with the C model. Then the D and finally the E. They made different models (C&D and later D&E) at the shop at the same time. Evidently it was up to the individual craftsmen. Essentially al 97s are marked as having 2 3/4 inch chambers, but they measured them with the roll crimped shells in mind, so none met the modern standard for 2 3/4" chambers. But they are still safe to shoot since the forcing cone allows the shell to fully open. BUt you will have increased pressures since there is very little of the forcing cone left. So unless you have a thin barrel as was sometimes used in the fixed version, you can readily lengthen the chamber and forcing cone to reduce pressures. Below is some of the information I've collected from many folks over the years. The top portion deals with the 97's. http://marauder.homestead.com/Shotgun.html
  6. I hope that doesn't mean that we can hurt their feelings ! Hope they work even better that the old ones.
  7. Check for "hammer pinch". This is where the hammer in rest position is a little to tight against the transfer bar. Now, if I can remember the test. . . Have gun empty. Then cock the gun and pull the trigger and continue to hold the trigger back. Now slowly release the trigger. The transfer bar should be free to drop down. If the hammer is pressing on the transfer bar, it increases the likelihood of breaking the transfer bar. The fix. Some would thin the transfer bar since it is the cheaper part, but it will weaken it. Most will slightly reface the hammer area where it touches the transfer bar - thus freeing up the action as it should. To be clear, this in NOT where the hammer hits the frame. It is that second notch down that will be touching the transfer bar. Of course you don't want to remove any more than is needed. For a better description, look at Driftwood Johnson's post, see #12. https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/ruger-new-vaquero-transfer-bar-pinch.649912/
  8. Howdah pistols. Handy for the occasional tiger. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Howdah_pistol https://www.davide-pedersoli.com/scheda-prodotto.asp/l_en/idpr_35/pistols-howdah-hunter-howdah-hunter.html For a smaller version: https://www.taylorsfirearms.com/hand-guns/cartridge-revolvers/howdah-pistol.html
  9. Look at the parts: http://marauder.homestead.com/files/97parts.htm The diagram isn't the greatest for explaining, but.. The slide is locked by the action of 70 - 74. Specifically the lock is 71, the long slim part. The release plunger you mention is part 22. It presses on the back of 71 to push it into the carrier (68). These parts work in conjunction with the spring that is inside the action arm area, part 16. It is likely that part 71 and the piece it fits into is messed up a little bit and catching. Or the area around the spring (70) is dirty and not allowing it all to work properly. Something else to look at is spring 16, but you must remove the action arm to see it. And there is a special tool needed to remove the action arm nut (15) - without damaging it. As an alternate, you can use a spray cleaner in hopes to clean out around part 15 if you cannot have someone get the action arm off.
  10. Actually ALL 97 came with chambers made for a shorter, roll-crimped shell. They are marked as 2 3/4 but it was a different standard - not for the "modern" star crimped cartridges. Some barrels may be a little thing but the vast majority can have the chamber and forcing cone slightly lengthened safely.
  11. Also since someone mentioned the "safety notch" - check that area and the trigger sear. If you are pulling the trigger a little early, it is very easy to cause wear between the notch and the sear. I reworked mine so it was not as easy to catch, but that is not for everyone.
  12. https://shootersworldpowder.com/wp-content/uploads/shooters-world-manual.pdf Lists a few loads, but not what I would like.
  13. I remember takin that picture! It was a slow Thursday.
  14. Yes, but don't you feeeeel sooo much safer!??? Remember, it's not about safety or innocent lives - it's about control. Yes it is so very sad.
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