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Cheyenne Culpepper 32827

how do you remove a partial case stuck in chamber?e

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i've got my own method of removing stuck cases, and before I share mine, was wondering how you might manage it.

 

first way to prevent it from happening is to not use knurled cases in your rifle! the cases with the ring around them...

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Handy dandy little deal that Lassiter makes! Keep it in my belt in case of emergency!

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lassiter's didn't work on mine... :(

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not the whole case, just part of it without the base...

 

wooden dowel won't catch the case....

 

and get it done on the range....after the stage is over

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Put an oversized bristle brush on your cleaning rod. Pull it into the chamber far enough that it is inside the remains of the case. Push or tap the rod to push the case out. The bristles, being oversize will have flexed to enter the case, and will dig into it and remove it when you push it backward.

 

Duffield

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what if the bristle brush won't work?

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I've taken a piece of heavy gauge piano wire and bent it so it looks like half an arrowhead. Then grind the bent side so it is parrallel to the chamber wall. Push it into the chamber, the bent portion snaps over the pieced of case and then tap it out with a cleaning rod inserted from the muzzle.

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what if the bristle brush won't work?

Not if it separated and is 'screwed' into the rifling.

I have had to push/drive/pound a bullet down the bore to push the case out.

LG

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Like LG, I'll slug the bore. If no proper size round ball, I have pulled a bullet from another round and driven it from the muzzle.

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I simply give my rifle to Cheyenne and ask him to fix it....

 

KK

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:FlagAm::FlagAm::FlagAm::FlagAm::FlagAm:

 

+1 What Duffield said works great.

The stiffer the bristle, the better the "grab".

 

MG

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Guest Maker-Wright

Broken Case Extractor manufactured by Echo...

 

The Brownells item # for my 38/357 extractor is; 769-100-003

" " 38-55 " " ; 769-100-005

 

Designed to remove cases with the heads broken off. Bought mine several years ago, don't know if Brownells still stocks them.

 

UPDATE; Just checked Brownells... they don't stock the ones I have anymore. Better hang on to 'em... might be worth a budgillion dollars some day!

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now mind you, I used to be a highly skilled sought after highly paid cnc machinist/programmer/set-up man.

 

in my special case is

 

1. a 12" brass rod 38 caliber with a well mushroomed head. did I say well mushroomed?

 

2. a long rod, preferably with a good heavy handle on one end.

 

3. Brass hammer if no heavy handle on rod.

 

4. C-clamp and small block of 3/4" plywood

 

5. Screwdriver and asst tools for taken apart rifle

 

fwiw, the one's I've seen a brush wouldn't begin to move them...

 

 

take bolt from rifle to give access to chamber.

 

with bolt removed place rod into chamber mushroom end first, feel for front of stuck brass, in a Marlin, put rod down barrel and while putting side pressure on mushroomed rod have some one tap it with rod through barrel. May need a hammer to tap with or use the weight on end of long rod. with the marlin you can put enough pressure on it to catch the sidewall. it may take several attempts.

 

 

with 66/73 and such, after removing bolt, place brass rod in chamber and place it just to where it catches the case mouth, then place block of wood at bottom of reciever and place C-clamp with screw end on bolt and the bottom of c clamp on the block of wood, put pressure on brass rod with c clamp, then tap with rod...may take several tries.

 

can be done on the range in a short amount of time.

 

the first one in my Marlin I nearly had to cut the brass in two before it let loose,,,

 

bet you never heard of this method before....

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I remove bolt and use a cheap tap then tap from barrel end

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Will a Brass jag and cleaning patch push it out? I may be the only one who has one in my kit, though.

Not often.

 

:FlagAm::FlagAm::FlagAm::FlagAm::FlagAm:

 

+1 What Duffield said works great.

The stiffer the bristle, the better the "grab".

 

MG

I have lost count of how many times I have seen that fail.

LG

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I remove bolt and use a cheap tap then tap from barrel end

What if the case head is not there?

LG

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A straight plastic anchor slightly smaller than the stuck case. (Available at any local hardware store)

http://www.yucando.com/Product-20051124103410.html

Insert and then using a screw of the proper size for the anchor, expand the anchor and pull out the screw or drive out with a rod from the muzzle end along with the stuck case.

Can easily be done on the range if you have the tools in your tool box.

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funny after five full seasons of shootin cowboy this happened to me this past weekend....I tried one of lassiter extractors loaned to me, and it wouldn't extract the casing....tried a second "never used" lassiter extractor and likity split out it came....maybe some good penetrant and patience and try again with a different extractor....what ya got to lose?

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Funny you would post this today. I just went thru 2000 once fired .38 cal cases and seperated them with and without cannelure for use in pistol and rifle. Straight wall cases are known to

 

seperate at the cannelure especially when using blackpowder. I have never had one seperate yet but I try to avoid trouble if I can.

 

Charlie

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I take the gun to Lassiter. Get a back up gun, then wait until he has time to work his magic!

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As Doc Eells has pointed out, Lassiter makes and sells a stuck case remover.

 

Sorry to say that I've tested it. They work, brilliantly.

 

Cheers,

FJT

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What rifle is this? An M1a? Knurlized casing are for match designation and usually are discarded after 4 reloading dues to case head separation like you are describing.

 

An old NRA High Power shoote/national guard armorerr showed me how to do this simply by using a GI chamber brush.

 

If this is the case....insert chamber brush and let the op rod spring drive the chamber brush into the casing and then open the bolt and put a stripper clip into the clip slot to hold the bolt back and with a sturdy rod drive the brush and the broken casing out of the chamber. I then use a cut off wheel on my dremel and slice the broken casing length wise to remove it from the chamber brush.

 

Works every time I have had to do so.....might work well for you.....this is for M1A and M1 Garand.

 

Given the casing you described I thought that it was one of these service rifles.....I shot High Power Service Riifle with my M1a for over 20 years...and have seen this problem more than once.

 

Hope it helps..

 

Bugler

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I had one of Lassiter's deals, didn't work on that case, he'll testify to that, he was there.

 

both of the instances I witnessed may have been caused by a dbl charge.

 

The second one may have come out easier, but the first one I nearly had to cut it in two lengthwise with the rod to get it to loosen....

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Never had it happen to me personally. Then again I shoot BP in .38WCF and the cases split the necks long before anything else is likely to happen.

 

On the other hand I have removed several .357 case separations and one .44 Magnum version over the years. Bronze brush and a bit of solvent took all out without a problem. A double charge however may very well bond the brass to the chamber wall a bit.

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What if the case head is not there?

Had one of my Sandy Storm 45-70 cases break about an inch from the mouth. Extractor took out the back part of the case. Poured the CerroSafe in the chamber about a 1/2" past the mouth to fill up the case - sprayed some light oil in the chamber - dowel rod & a dead blow hammer - the case popped right out

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Howdy,

Just a question, will a regular zippo lighter make flame enuf to melt the cerrosafe?

Im just thinking (always a dangerous and potentially fatal activity) that a little field kit

could be made up with that stuff.

Hmmmmm?

Best

CR

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