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1873 extractor cleaning - what a chore!


Last Call Saul

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Every year, towards the end of the season, the extractor in my rifle collects enough grime underneath to start affecting the rifle action. It is an aftermarket heat-treated one, so the extractor doesn't need replacement, and after I disassemble the rifle each winter, take the bolt out, knock the pin out, and clean under the extractor, it is all good for almost all year.  I clean my rifle every few matches but usually don't take it fully apart during the season.   

 

I was wondering if there was some way to keep it clean under the extractor - some preventive care without the need to strip the gun completely down? Something quick after a few matches? some magic cleaner that would dissolve it all?

 

 

Edited by Last Call Saul
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A better cleaner or even a fouling-blocking (prevention) treatment? No, not that I know of.   If you foul the action area a lot while shooting, consider annealing cases to reduce blowback.  Shoot cleanest burning loads you can.  I don't have to clean under extractor but maybe every 3 years, and that is on a filthy shooting .45 Colt gun.

 

good luck, GJ

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Never had to do it .

I clean my guns with Ballistal and the extractor area with a tooth brush .

 

Just make sure you use the wife's tooth brush  it tast like $#!t  .

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Take the gun apart. Take the bolt out. Use whatever cleaner you like to soak the bolt in. Wiggle the extractor up and down with your finger, then blow the crap out with an air compressor. I use a pipe cleaner to clean out the firing pin channel. I have never taken the extractor out to clean under it.

kR

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3 hours ago, Kid Rich said:

Take the gun apart. Take the bolt out. Use whatever cleaner you like to soak the bolt in. Wiggle the extractor up and down with your finger, then blow the crap out with an air compressor. I use a pipe cleaner to clean out the firing pin channel. I have never taken the extractor out to clean under it.

kR

That's cuz you shoot that new aged "just a passing fad" self cleaning black powder soot stuff. :lol:

 

Kajun

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Lefty Wheeler shows that he cuts a groove across the bolt so you can squirt your favorite cleaner and bow out with air.   Always figured I would try that next time I remove the extractor from mine.      GW

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4 hours ago, Kid Rich said:

Take the gun apart. Take the bolt out. Use whatever cleaner you like to soak the bolt in. Wiggle the extractor up and down with your finger, then blow the crap out with an air compressor. I use a pipe cleaner to clean out the firing pin channel. I have never taken the extractor out to clean under it.

kR

If the bolt is out of the rifle - it takes extra 5 min to take the extractor out - I have the jig and the punch and the length of the heat treated wire for replacement pins...makes it easy

 

  it's getting the bolt out of the rifle, what takes time and patience :)

Edited by Last Call Saul
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During the season, I use non-chlorinated brake cleaner to clean out as much gunk as I can.  At the end of the season, I still do a complete teardown removing the bolt, firing pin and extractor for cleaning.

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4 minutes ago, Sarge said:

During the season, I use non-chlorinated brake cleaner to clean out as much gunk as I can.  At the end of the season, I still do a complete teardown removing the bolt, firing pin and extractor for cleaning.

What is this “season” you refer to that you have time to deep clean guns? In S Texas we only have 2 seasons. Summer and January 18th. 

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2 hours ago, Last Call Saul said:

it's getting the bolt out of the rifle, what takes time and patience :)

 

You're not taking the stock off to remove the bolt, are you?  If so, that's not necessary.  Granted, it's still a bit of work to get the rest of the stuff out of the way but you don't need to pull the stock or lower tang to get the bolt out.

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1 minute ago, Shawnee Hills said:

 

You're not taking the stock off to remove the bolt, are you?  If so, that's not necessary.  Granted, it's still a bit of work to get the rest of the stuff out of the way but you don't need to pull the stock or lower tang to get the bolt out.

 

Actually, yes, I do.  I tried to wiggle the bolt out without removing the hammer and couldn't... so I remove the lower tang.  is there another way?

 

 

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41 minutes ago, Hoss said:

What is this “season” you refer to that you have time to deep clean guns? In S Texas we only have 2 seasons. Summer and January 18th. 

During pothole season.  Roughly March 15 through November 15.

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4 minutes ago, Last Call Saul said:

 

Actually, yes, I do.  I tried to wiggle the bolt out without removing the hammer and couldn't... so I remove the lower tang.  is there another way?

 

That's weird.  There should be just enough room to tip the bolt down and roll it out.  I can do this on my short, saddle, and carbine rifles.

 

Ah ha!  Are you working on a 45?  I'm referring to 357s so that may be the difference.  I'll need to clear a spot on the bench and see if this works with my 45.  Seems like I still didn't need to remove the lower tang or stock on that one either, but it's been a while since I messed with it.

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Just now, Shawnee Hills said:

 

That's weird.  There should be just enough room to tip the bolt down and roll it out.  I can do this on my short, saddle, and carbine rifles.

 

Ah ha!  Are you working on a 45?  I'm referring to 357s so that may be the difference.  I'll need to clear a spot on the bench and see if this works with my 45.  Seems like I still didn't need to remove the lower tang or stock on that one either, but it's been a while since I messed with it.

 

no, that's a 38... Maybe I was not persistent enough.  will try it next winter :)

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1 hour ago, Last Call Saul said:

will try it next winter :)

 

Next winter??  Bullpucky!  Get back in there and try it again now.  Nobody likes a quitter.  :P:lol:

 

But seriously, you should easily be able to get the bolt out on a 357 without messing with the lower tang.  On mine, it appears that there won't be enough clearance but they fall right out.  I just need to remember to pull the bolt extension as far rearward as I can every time.  Otherwise, that's the part that the bolt wants to hang up on.

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9 hours ago, Rooster Ron Wayne said:

Never had to do it .

I clean my guns with Ballistal and the extractor area with a tooth brush .

 

Just make sure you use the wife's tooth brush  it tast like $#!t  .

Something similar with me.  Moose milk or murphy's mix.  Tooth brush works good but I use a dental gum brush.  It's like a tooth brush but with a smaller head.  Works great for getting under the extractor hook.

I shoot black powder and have never taken the bolt out or had a problem with the extractor when cleaning it with the brush.

Edited by German Jim
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56 minutes ago, Shawnee Hills said:

 

Next winter??  Bullpucky!  Get back in there and try it again now.  Nobody likes a quitter.  :P:lol:

 

But seriously, you should easily be able to get the bolt out on a 357 without messing with the lower tang.  On mine, it appears that there won't be enough clearance but they fall right out.  I just need to remember to pull the bolt extension as far rearward as I can every time.  Otherwise, that's the part that the bolt wants to hang up on.

No...not always and more times than not I would guess. 

 

Yes if you can get the FP Extension past the hammer.

 

Phantom

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Jig and punch as mentioned above certainly is helpful.   Scarlet has them.

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On my .38/.357 ‘73 with pistol grip stock, I can’t get the firing pin extension (newer style) past the hammer without removing the stock and loosening the lower tang assembly. On my other ‘73 and Uberti Henry (both are .44-40 and straight stock), the older style FP slides over the hammer. 
 

I don’t know the reason(s) why, I just accept it. 

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Just now, Abilene Slim SASS 81783 said:

On my .38/.357 ‘73 with pistol grip stock, I can’t get the firing pin extension (newer style) past the hammer without removing the stock and loosening the lower tang assembly. On my other ‘73 and Uberti Henry (both are .44-40 and straight stock), the older style FP slides over the hammer. 
 

I don’t know the reason(s) why, I just accept it. 

Have gunsmith fix that for you.  No big chore for someone who knows trick.

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59 minutes ago, Billy Boots, # 20282 LTG-Regulator said:

Have gunsmith fix that for you.  No big chore for someone who knows trick.

Thanks, Billy. The only reason I had the bolt out was for cleaning after a two or three-day match of real black powder. Otherwise, there’s not much reason to mess with it. I don’t mind the extra time. As of November, I’ve retired it from BP shooting and use the .44-40s for that. 
 

Unrelated to the topic, it’s a cut & weld Codymatic I got in 2010. It’s a sweet shooter that’s been flawless until the upper trigger sear stopped holding the hammer at full cock about two months ago. Replaced that and I’m back in action!

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Clean out cut and coil spring conversion. Cleaning easy peasy.

image.thumb.png.3e134c852a18ffb6ffc3872c78805013.png

Edited by SGT. ELI 35882 GUNFIGHTER
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20 hours ago, G W Wade said:

Lefty Wheeler shows that he cuts a groove across the bolt so you can squirt your favorite cleaner and bow out with air.   Always figured I would try that next time I remove the extractor from mine.      GW

The only real 73 I owned (188X) had that slot in it. Guess that is not a new idea.

kR

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15 hours ago, Abilene Slim SASS 81783 said:

Thanks, Billy. The only reason I had the bolt out was for cleaning after a two or three-day match of real black powder. Otherwise, there’s not much reason to mess with it. I don’t mind the extra time. As of November, I’ve retired it from BP shooting and use the .44-40s for that. 
 

Unrelated to the topic, it’s a cut & weld Codymatic I got in 2010. It’s a sweet shooter that’s been flawless until the upper trigger sear stopped holding the hammer at full cock about two months ago. Replaced that and I’m back in action!

 I find cleaning BP residue from under extractor and on spring after several matches can help steer away from possible hick-ups later.  I have Snake Oil George's one-piece firing pin and extractor system in mine,. but need is still a good one in any 73 at some point, especially if shooting black.  The modification to allow hammer to travel  back far enough to slide firing pin assembly out is a handy mod.

 

I like Sgt Eli's cut on bolt also.  SOG does similar cut.

 

So much to be said for Cody's Codymatics.  I shot my share of them thru the years and sold them when in firearms business.  Many argue that method is a bit obsolete but there is still much good to say about the smoothness of the CAW.  I eventually changed to get on the "new thing" bandwagon.  Now shooting C&I 5th gens.  Stroke is shorter but not sure I would say the 5th gen any smoother than some of my early Codymatics.     I still often wonder if I am any faster with the shorter stroke where I find more resistance in throw versus the smoothness I had in Codymatics.

 

Incidentally, the Codymatic I would have Cody built me, and thus call the Billy Boots Model, started as 24 inch pistol grip then shortened to 19" (before the 20" barrels were readily available), muzzle was smooth rounded to inside, then most other little mods Cody had in his "bag of tricks".  There was a theory at the time that the rounded muzzle dispersed BP smoke better and more like smoke-ring.  Not sure that theory was to valid but mod makes good  conversation for sure. 

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28 minutes ago, Billy Boots, # 20282 LTG-Regulator said:

 I find cleaning BP residue from under extractor and on spring after several matches can help steer away from possible hick-ups later.  I have Snake Oil George's one-piece firing pin and extractor system in mine,. but need is still a good one in any 73 at some point, especially if shooting black.  The modification to allow hammer to travel  back far enough to slide firing pin assembly out is a handy mod.

 

I like Sgt Eli's cut on bolt also.  SOG does similar cut.

 

So much to be said for Cody's Codymatics.  I shot my share of them thru the years and sold them when in firearms business.  Many argue that method is a bit obsolete but there is still much good to say about the smoothness of the CAW.  I eventually changed to get on the "new thing" bandwagon.  Now shooting C&I 5th gens.  Stroke is shorter but not sure I would say the 5th gen any smoother than some of my early Codymatics.     I still often wonder if I am any faster with the shorter stroke where I find more resistance in throw versus the smoothness I had in Codymatics.

 

Incidentally, the Codymatic I would have Cody built me, and thus call the Billy Boots Model, started as 24 inch pistol grip then shortened to 19" (before the 20" barrels were readily available), muzzle was smooth rounded to inside, then most other little mods Cody had in his "bag of tricks".  There was a theory at the time that the rounded muzzle dispersed BP smoke better and more like smoke-ring.  Not sure that theory was to valid but mod makes good  conversation for sure. 

I put a C&I 5th gen in my ‘73 carbine, and a 3rd gen C&I in my Henry. The 3rd gen is as smooth as my Codymatic, the 5th gen not so much. If I were to do it again, I put a 3rd gen in. 

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17 minutes ago, Abilene Slim SASS 81783 said:

I put a C&I 5th gen in my ‘73 carbine, and a 3rd gen C&I in my Henry. The 3rd gen is as smooth as my Codymatic, the 5th gen not so much. If I were to do it again, I put a 3rd gen in. 

You need to feel a Boogie 73.

 

Phantom

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2 minutes ago, Abilene Slim SASS 81783 said:

Looks really interesting. I wonder if it’ll work in an older model ‘73?  Some kits don’t.

That's an question for Boogie...but I don't mess with building my 73's. I send them to Boogie and he does all the upgrades in his bag of tricks.

 

Phantom

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54 minutes ago, Phantom, SASS #54973 said:

That's an question for Boogie...but I don't mess with building my 73's. I send them to Boogie and he does all the upgrades in his bag of tricks.

 

Phantom

 

Have heard nothing but good things about Boogie's parts and work but he hasn't been able to get his parts in for over a year and has now dropped the Ruger short-stroke kits from his website.  I recently contacted him about getting work done without success.  No parts available.

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11 hours ago, Shawnee Hills said:

 

Have heard nothing but good things about Boogie's parts and work but he hasn't been able to get his parts in for over a year and has now dropped the Ruger short-stroke kits from his website.  I recently contacted him about getting work done without success.  No parts available.

 

Hang tough.  New parts, including short stroke kits, are incoming.

 

Cheers,

FJT

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21 hours ago, Shawnee Hills said:

 

Have heard nothing but good things about Boogie's parts and work but he hasn't been able to get his parts in for over a year and has now dropped the Ruger short-stroke kits from his website.  I recently contacted him about getting work done without success.  No parts available.

Ref. FJT's post.

 

Phantom

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Several Lustrum ago, when we went thru the Out Of Battery Discharge fiasco, Uberti changed the geometry relationship between the Firing Pin Extension Rod and the Hammer.  This was done to prevent using your face to stop the extension rod in an OOB incident.  Then Uberti changed the method of retaining the Extension Rod in the action.  If you have a rifle with the small retaining pins to retain the Extension Rod, DO NOT FOOL WITH IT to make it east to remove the rod. 

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4 minutes ago, Colorado Coffinmaker said:

 

Several Lustrum ago, when we went thru the Out Of Battery Discharge fiasco, Uberti changed the geometry relationship between the Firing Pin Extension Rod and the Hammer.  This was done to prevent using your face to stop the extension rod in an OOB incident.  Then Uberti changed the method of retaining the Extension Rod in the action.  If you have a rifle with the small retaining pins to retain the Extension Rod, DO NOT FOOL WITH IT to make it east to remove the rod. 

 

in my rifle it is a wedge that goes into the bolt and the extension rod, that is held by the same pin that attaches the toggle arms to the bolt

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