Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

Black Dawg (?) company used to reload black powder shotshells for cowboy shooting. They've been out of business several years now. And BP shells had a BIG markup on them. I'd think your best option would be to let folks know on the SASS Wire you need a batch of Winchester Low Noise Low Recoil shells. See if anyone local can come up with some. Western Heritage may just have to loosen their rules about shotgun ammo if they want to hold matches right now..... And good luck with finding 20 gauge target ammo currently. It's a hen's teeth type item. good luck, GJ

They are a little expensive, but when I seem to think I need a movie hat, I go to Last Best West Hat - https://thelastbestwest.com/cowboy-hats/western-movie-hats/ The one I did have made has been a good wearing one. If they don't have it in the on-line catalog, call them. If you can provide them a couple screen snaps or trailer videos they usually will give it a good shot. good luck, GJ

None. Shooter can't sweep himself. Muzzles never broke 170. No "other person" was in front of muzzle. good luck, GJ

No, I particularly avoid dry firing any .22 rimfires, double barrel shotguns, and Model 12 shotguns. Also 1900 era pocket pistols. Too much chance of dinging rims of chambers, breaking firing pins, and breaking parts in real old guns that I'd rather not have to make parts for. And NEVER a cap and ball revolver, for real obvious reasons of almost instantly damaging the nipples and even hammers. Your mileage may vary, your damage concerns may escalate. good luck, GJ

If you get lead from others, it's a real possibility. I only buy my soft lead still in the form it was manufactured and originally used (like pipe, cable sheathing, or salvaged x-ray shielding sheets). Much less possibility of contaminated lead. About 1/4 of the "hard" lead I have bought from folks over the years (range scrap, wheelweights, etc) has either zinc or calcium contamination. Zinc from failing to pick out Zn weights during the smelt down. Calcium from tossing auto battery parts into the melt, or shooting at ranges where folks shoot badly contaminated bullets. I pass on any lead that comes from shooting ranges now. There is just too much crud in the berms!! And it's too hard to remove several of the contaminants. good luck, GJ

Sorta sounds like your bullet bag might contain some tanning chemicals that are reacting with the lead. The white oxidation could be lead acetate - as if the balls were in contact with vinegar or other acetic acid solution. Or lead sulfate (like on auto battery terminals) - sulfuric acid is commonly used in some tanning processes. Those acids would be easy to detect if you wet the leather and put a litmus strip (pool supply has them) on the leather surface. good luck, GJ

If Brasso is what you have, use it. It won't take long. Won't hurt the brass a bit if you get it off in an hour or two. good luck, GJ

Your soft lead metal may have some contaminant in it that oxidizes quickly. Something that is not in your 20:1 lead/tin mix. Aluminum dissolved in the soft lead might just oxidize as quickly as what you are seeing. This batch of .44 balls was cast 8 years ago, and stored in my ammo room in my house. Surface is showing only the slightest freckling of a dark gray color spots. Just by looking, I don't see much to tell it's the 8 year old lot, or the lot I cast a month ago. This came from scrapped lead plumbing pipe and shower pans, no additives. (I know which batch it is, as this batch has been stored in the same plastic jar that you see in picture.) And, some REAL slugs (50 cal, also of soft plumbing scrap lead) that were cast in 1996. Mostly stored in my garage. for those 25 years. The noses of some slugs are showing a little oxidation to dark gray lead oxide. Grooves and bases are largely shiny and look almost fresh. One of their brothers took a 200 pound muley in 1997, one shot at 60 yards through heart and liver. 4x5, in velvet, as it hangs over fireplace. good luck, GJ

It is only beneficial at all if shooting .38/357 (or smaller diameter) cartridges in a '73 or '66. I put one in a 73 shooting .38 specials. Took it out because it didn't make any difference in speed or smoothness to a top shooter I was working "for." But then, the ammo carried a truncated cone bullet that may have self-straightened better than most RNFP bullets. And, magazine spring was shortened so that only 3" stuck out of a bare magazine tube, thus lowering pressure on the cartridge stack. good luck, GJ

New Gun Clubs are showing up around NM. The announced plans are that Vista Outdoors does not intend to change the lineup of "Remington Ammo" product lines. So Gun Clubs, ShurShot hunting shells, and Field and Clays should all be lower priced Remington hulls for those seeking economy, and the same STS and Nitros for high-end, longer lasting, smooth wall and brass head hulls that are the cat's meow for side-by shucking. good luck, GJ

The LoadAll has no stops to limit the movement on dies on the stations. You have to "memorize the feel" where the die movement should end. Makes it very hard to control the quality of shells to all come out the same. Another vote for a low end Mec so you can load without trying to recall where to stop the handle. good luck, GJ

In the US, as well as in Canada, blood lead is reported in ug/dL So, US and Canadian results are directly comparable. good luck, GJ

I cast outdoors on my back porch. Most of the time, I even turn on a powerful fan. As mentioned above, there's little to worry about from the lead alloy melting. Lead is not being held hot enough when casting to emit lead vapors of any significant amount. Do be careful with lead that splatters out of pot and mold - don't carry that in your clothes or facial hair back into the house. The worst health hazard when casting (other than lifting heavy objects and potential burns) is the drossing operation. The dross (crud) that separates from dirty lead can contain several toxic metals and, if calcium was present in the lead, the dross can emit either stibnene or arsine gas (poisonous) when the dross powder is exposed to damp air. Be very careful handling the dross and dispose of it properly. good luck, GJ

Sizemaster has the collet style sizing, 600 Jr has a ring sizer. If you have a double barrel, sooner or later you will appreciate how much tighter the collet can size the "brass" on the head of shells. Sizemaster has primer feeder built in, 600 Jr you stick on one primer at a time unless you add the extra primer feeder. Both are solid machines and will run shells fast enough to satisfy most cowboy shooting needs. Neither will keep up with a shotgun target shooter going through a flat or more a week. good luck, GJ

Yes on both those additions. The Lyman 17a is a big improvement and very period for a target rifle. The slip on leather butt cover with sorbothane in it is fine as well. From my driver's seat. Have shot long range events with that very same front sight. And even a fully-visible modern recoil pad is a legal addition. good luck, GJ

You could send those chicks over to UPS to collect all your important packages that are stacking up... maybe Jamil will enjoy meeting up with Kenobo

Can't get a new 650 any more, the 750 replaced it. More folks will want a 750 with the improvements. That will make the 650 a little less valuable than it was new. But, of course, the "panic-demic" changes lots of prices day by day. As normal, ask high, and work your way down until you get nibbles. good luck, GJ

Either you have to "read" the gun markings to us or show us much closer photos of the top of barrel and rib, where most of the 1900 era pocket pistols were manufacturer marked. Grips are often interchanged on these old guns....because they were gutta percha and easily broken or chipped. good luck, GJ

And a properly-lubed BP load is what I have heard will clean out leading left by smokeless loads. Not a bare soft bullet load. good luck, GJ

Well, there is certainly no BS in my original answer. Black burns with a LOT more flame temperature than do any of the smokeless powders. Check barrel temperature on a thin walled shotgun after running 4 or 6 BP rounds through it. Temperatures that get the interior wall of the barrel up over 650 F will certainly soften any leading. There may ALSO be some chemical reactions between the (largely potassium carbonate) fouling with the metallic lead in the barrel. Never seen anyone who has ever presented the chemistry of this. But it is WELL KNOWN among black powder shooters that there will be little lead fouling to clean out. Really doesn't matter what the internal chemistry or thermodynamics are, it does truly work that way. And it's not BS. But most important point made above - shoot the right bullets which match bore and chamber pressure generated, and there's no leading to fight. good luck, GJ

Probably Accurate's 43-165CL, or 43-155S for an even lighter bullet. Ask for the bands on the bullet to be cut to 0.429" or even 0.430" in whatever alloy you expect to cast (not .427 which was the original groove diameter for .44 WCF). That will fit MOST guns made in the last 20 years. I'd specify "Wheelweight" alloy composition so you get a perfect diameter when using about Brinnell 9 hardness alloy. Round Nose Flat Point with a crimp groove is about the most common design for our matches, which both molds above will make. Lightest bullet possible usually will result in least recoil. Both have a large enough lube groove for .44 WCF in a revolver. You may want a 200 grain bullet for black powder loads in a toggle rifle, if the gun has blowback problems (but, with the thin case walls of .44 WCF, almost certainly you won't have a blowback issue). good luck, GJ

There is no power difference between regular and Match primers. Match primers have been stated by all the companies that make primers to simply have a higher level of quality assurance done on the primers before they are packed. Like, one more examination that there is a pellet and an anvil in each primer. So, more than a penny apiece more for Match primers doesn't seem wise to pay, in NORMAL MARKET CONDITIONS. good luck, GJ

You can burn it out with a few black powder rounds. But firing jacketed rounds will usually iron in the lead deposits in guns that are firing pistol-caliber cartridges. You really need to fix the root problem (leading) with bullets that: * are soft (no more than 9 Brinnell hardness) (which is just about wheelweight hardness) * fit the groove diameter of the barrel (and a great fit is one thousandths of an inch over groove diameter.) * contain soft lube which actually works as a friction fighter * and DO NOT have a bevel base. And, in revolvers, the throat in the cylinder shouldn't be tighter than the groove diameter of the barrel, and each throat should be consistent with the rest. The modern "cheap and easy" approach is to use poly coated bullets, but even those need to be a good fit to groove diameter. Load right, and you won't get leading that then has to be cleaned out. I've not had to scrape out lead deposits in cowboy guns for the last 7-8 years now. good luck, GJ

Well, TO is instructed to SAFELY ASSIST THE SHOOTER THROUGH THE STAGE. This occurrence has happened to me while running timer, and three times I have called out to the shooter "bullet left the barrel, keep shooting" Each of those shooters was very glad I called that out loudly. Especially the one who "was sure" he really did have a squib. But you can't yell that if you didn't see the bullet come out of barrel - too much danger to barrel and even shooter or yourself if you were mistaken. This seems to be a better approach IF you know the shooter will hear you and understand. Don't do this if the shooter is not able to hear you! good luck, GJ

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