Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

Does the FPE bind up due to a worn hole in the rear of frame (where hammer falls)? Early Uberti toggle guns are hard on the frame at that point, especially if previous owner did not know to lightly grease the FPE every time it was cleaned. Sometimes to fix that requires a bushing to be turned and fitted into the frame to bring an egg-shaped hole there back to round. A test to find if the FPE is binding - cycle gun until you feel it bind. Then press downward on the FPE as close to frame as you can when continuing to put pressure on the lever. If "straightening out" the FPE removes the binding, you have an oversize, egg-shaped hole in the frame, or as Cheatin Charlie mentioned above, worn or damaged FPE, firing pin, or connecting hardware. Difficulty getting a setting on mainspring that is both easy to cycle and gives reliable primer hits - sounds like mainspring has lost most of it's tension. Unless it breaks, the leaf spring will usually give some springiness even when worn out. Good luck, GJ

24 db is not a great level of protection for heavy shooting. Look for plugs that give at least 30 when inserted properly. Then INSERT THEM PROPERLY. Some ear canals are crooked enough that you have to pull up and back on your outer ear while inserting the plug, whether solid or foam. If you don't immediately notice how quiet things got, you didn't get them put in right. Good luck, GJ

Well, that would make a little more sense. If, MS, you are hitting the bolt tab with the case rim as a new round is lifted up, you have a bad interference! That will end up bending the cartridge tab upwards, making ejection difficult or breaking the tab off! This timing problem would need to be fixed. Going faster will just add more energy to any impact between case rim and bolt tab, making it more likely to snap off the tab. Lifter is coming up too fast. Usually fixed by filing some more off of the contact pad that drives the lifter arm upward. Good luck, GJ

This description does not make much sense to me, especially the part I bolded. In the last part of bolt retract motion, the case should be kicked clear of the bolt face and forced up out of action as the carrier rises to it's high position. A previous thread on here showed that some lifter blocks need a little relief ground in the block for the case to pivot as the lifter pushes the case upwards from the front end, and the extractor is forced to release the rim. I'll try to find it and add a link to it. ..... till later.... GJ

The 73 is about the most open lever rifle action ever made. I even take off one side plate and cycle the gun when I find a hangup point that is hard to see. You will notice any drag in the "carrier returns second round into the magazine" part of the closing lever stroke more when cycling the gun slowly. You may also notice a hangup when the bolt face just starts to enter the rear of the lifter (carrier block) if the timing is just slightly off or the upward stop position of the lifter is slightly too high. Since the moving parts are so easy to see in toggle guns, the usual way I spot problem areas is to look even harder at the "usual suspect" points in the action where binding, interference, snagging and other rubbing can take place, and watch and feel for jerky or harder motion as you slow cycle past those suspects. Of course, running the gun for a hundred (or two) rounds and looking for rub marks in the bluing is another way, but that requires a tear down and inspection of all the action parts.... Use all your tricks and senses when timing a toggle action! Good luck, GJ

Check your local WalMart (yeah, I know). Often they have the best price on STS loads going. AAs are well known by now at not having the quality assurance levels that they used to. Such inattention shows up with harder-to-shuck shells in doubles. They used to be first class shells. Now they barely make second class loads, IMHO. Good luck, GJ

Timing when you cycle it slowly (like most first time short stroke installers do out of caution) - varies from what happens during fast cycling in a match. So, I leave a little room with missing the tab when setting timing. Better slightly-slower-safe than broken-tab-sorry. Good luck, GJ

Here's one reason to look at the timer during the run - If you are making a mistake with the positioning of the timer such that shot volumes you can normally pick up are not recording as shots this time, you may be able to correct something about where you are holding the timer to get accurate readings. If you wait till the very last couple of shots to check, you've got little chance to improve your positioning. As you gain lots of experience with positions of timer needed for different props and firearms, you will need to check this less often, because you will usually know when you can have problems. Second reason - A malfunction on the last gun type shot can lead to not having as many shots fired as you expected. You really need to be checking that you are still picking up shots as each gun type finishes, because next gun type can fail to fire for several reasons. Good luck, GJ

Sure! Works fine..... you have four stations. You will want a Dillon powder drop/expander die/measure in station 2. So, you won't use the expander die that you get in a conventional die set. Good luck, GJ

A scorekeeper who might be trying to plan ahead would record on the scoresheet that the P on this stage "came from having two loaded revolvers in hands" when category does not allow it. Then, if the shooter makes the same mistake again, the correct progression of penalties would be obvious that he had would earn a SDQ on the next stage where this might occur. Since a P for "targets not shot in correct order" is never involved in a progressive penalty, record the more serious one on any given stage. Good luck, GJ

Seconding PWB's hint that it would be an illegal way to carry ammo. Belts are allowed, slides on belts are allowed, but not a slide on suspenders. Good luck, GJ

Good things to say! Good luck, GJ

If the extractor does not close down fully on the rim of the cartridge, it's either dirty under it, or considering you forced it over a rim recently, bent and there is no repair for it - just replace it (the metal in the arm of the extractor is not very willing to take a re-bend). If you haven't done a lot of your own rifle work, have a cowboy gunsmith put in the new one. Good luck, GJ

For the last 15 years, target stands have not been considered part of the target, at all major matches I've attended. It is difficult sometimes to tell a stand hit from a target hit. In that case, we do the best we can, call what you believe you saw, and let the TO sort out what was seen by the majority of the spotting trio. Good luck, GJ

JW2000 also has widely spread hammers. Mine had both chambers very poorly reamed. Go with the Rossi. Good luck, GJ

Well, I've got several of the same model, shoot real BP in them at times, in 100 degree weather at times, and never dreamed of putting a leather cover on the barrel. Grab the wood, rather than the metal. THAT would be within the rules. Good luck, GJ

Splinter forearms on doubles, combined with black powder loads, just about demands something be allowed to avoid contacting the barrels on those guns. 87 shotguns have little wood up front, too. Can you name a rifle that actually needs a leather barrel cover (other than the Henry)? And convince me that the leather would not hinder a good sight picture, or stop a Henry follower's motion? In general, I've found asking "Why?" about most SASS rules gets little in the way of satisfaction. Asking "How" (to use the rules to your benefit) may provide some, however. Good luck, GJ

Local help, as mentioned by at least one pard above, is always the fastest and sometimes the best. SASS pards can be very resourceful. One great reason to hang around with the best folks in the shooting world. Good luck, GJ

That would be a good way to make for lots more problems than you have already, most likely. Work the least expensive part rather than the most expensive (the frame). Lesson #1 in Gunsmithing 101. Good luck, GJ

If you have someone who can cut new screw blanks, you can get the metric dies and thread the screws to get the lengths of shank and thickness of heads that you wish. I'd probably go that route if I were going to re case harden the frames - cost of hand made screws will be "down in the weeds". Good luck, GJ

My guess? Cylinder Latch Spring Plunger from NM Vaquero. Gun will work almost as well without it, latch may be harder to operate and spring may wear out faster. Very easy part to lose when juggling all the parts needed in alignment when attaching grip to frame. Good luck, GJ

A pard does not need a small cartridge to shoot a light rifle load.

SW45 - Good to see you can get started shooting in matches! Thanks again for that Garand. May shoot it tomorrow, in fact. (John C Garand was a genius.) Good luck, GJ

Comes up just fine! Good link, GJ

Minimal clothes you probably have in your closet - as mentioned above, a long-sleeve shirt and jeans. Cheap pair of comfortable boots (Ariat makes many that are comfortable). If you want a cheap hat, stop in a western or farm store and get a straw hat for the rest of the summer. DO NOT invest any more until you go to a local match or two and get a good idea of what your local shooters are using. You do know where folks are shooting locally, right? If not, let us know where you are, or look on the SASS site for local clubs! Good luck, GJ