Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

.45 Colt - a moderate rifle load I used to run was 200 grain bullet, 5.0 grains TiteGroup good luck, GJ

I load a 175 grain cast slug for revolvers, with 4.2 grains Winchester Super Target. Makes about 650 FPS. Clean. 180 grain bullet would be same powder charge, almost same velocity. good luck, GJ

None of the Uberti toggle rifle short stroke kits are just drop in. There's enough variation in the Uberti guns to make each one a little different, and require hand fitting. It's not a job for a first-time hobbyist. In your situation (other than being remote from lots of smiths) - I'd advise using a good cowboy gunsmith. "Regular" gunsmiths often don't know enough about the guns and the game to get the gun tuned right after installing the kit. And in your case, with the very-low production numbers of .44 magnum 73s, it's hard to tell if ANY short stroke kit will ev

Any maximum velocity restrictions on the matches? No, not coming, just curious. And other shooters might need to know. good luck, GJ

The screws which are involved in disassembly for cleaning a toggle link gun are real nice to have in the hard versions. They get taken out and reinstalled so often, that factory-soft screws stay pristine only with a TON of extra care during routine maintenance. These would be: side plate screw lever screw lever and lifter spring screws trigger guard screws (2) tang screw butt plate screw (1, same screw used to attach lower tang to the stock as they attach butt plate to the stock) Most others are much less frequently removed.

And thus the need for a 1/4" bit hand impact driver. The Uberti factory installs fairly soft screws and uses high torques. That works well until the first disassembly has to be done. VTI carries complete sets of hardened screws. First thing I do when I get a new Italian made firearm and a new screw kit is disassemble completely, clean well, remove rust from mag tube (if it has one), deburr any rough spots, and THEN start to do any tuning work that I want to do. Then it's reassembled with proper lubrication and hard screws to moderate torques. Don't force a bit or screwdriver

First off, here's a nice video by Maker-Wright that explains how the action should be working, and how the slide lock specifically should work. Good stuff! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eZKVkru26a0 Cocking the hammer normally causes the action slide lock to lock the action from moving, so if he is having to do this to ALLOW the action to run, that slide lock bar is probably bent or in very bad shape. Bending the action slide lock bar can be caused by pulling back hard on the slide while shooting. As the video explains, this puts a lot of force directly on the end of the

You really need some gunsmith size flat bits. If you can afford 'em, get the Brownells regular set and the thin-bit set. You will buy once and use them for a LONG time. Otherwise, we have some lists of specific Brownells magna-tip bits for particular western guns. Here's one from Pale Wolf Brunelle some time ago: Ruger Single Action 150-4 * 180-3 * 180-4 210-4 * Rossi 92 150-4 * 180-3 * 180-5 210-4 * 270-4 300-5 340-5 * Duplicated in above two sets Colt/clone SAA 340-3 300-3 270-3 210-3 180-3 18

For a 366 Hornady/Pacific press? See Hornady parts dept - give 'em a call! May not be in stock, though, seeing how many folks have dusted off their shotshell presses recently. But up until a year ago, they have always had the parts I needed. good luck, GJ

My favorite preservative grease and waterproofing is Pecard's leather dressing. https://www.amazon.com/PECARD-Leather-Dressing-6-oz/dp/B0081SCR1S To remove the sweat and salts - whether they came from a horse or a shooter - Fiebings Saddle Soap and water. good luck, GJ

Now might be the time to (one time) clean primer pockets in your fired brass. I rarely do so, only if I FEEL a rough seating pull or find a high primer sticking out of the pocket. But with your wide spread failure to seat problem, you may have a lot of residue in the pockets. good luck, GJ

Look up George Digweed and his long range shotgun demonstrations. Yep, that's a long way. GJ

English shooters report they have no problems getting enough shotshells to shoot sporting clays across the pond. They are kinda wondering what we're complaining about. good luck, GJ

You should have drawn a scream along side the diamond, ala Edvard Munch

Both the .357 and .45 Colt levers should be interchangeable in factory guns having no mods, and both having the same style of stock (either both straight, or both pistol grip, sporting). The SAME part number (VTI part UB:240089) is used for any caliber of a straight-stock Uberti rifle. Your .357 lever appears to have been heavily modified post-factory, if that was originally a Uberti lever. I assume you are asking about the different positions of the the surface of the lifter arm contact on the lever boss? The .357 lever has had a LOT of metal taken off (to make a