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Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

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Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 last won the day on April 23 2018

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About Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

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  • Birthday November 30

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    60708 LIFE
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    Buffalo Range Riders, High Desert Drifters, Rio Grande Renegades

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    Albuquerque NM
  • Interests
    shooting, hiking, hunting, fishing, building, gun smithing, wood working. SASS Regulator. NSCA super veteran.

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  1. It has been inconsistent in pressure since manufacturing moved to Spain from Scotland about 3 or more years ago. The story is Accurate won't import powder lots that don't meet their pressure specs so that old loading data for it will continue to be safe. Some may come in at sporadic intervals in the future, but it's probably time to give up on it. If some does come back in, you can still pick it up then. I'd suggest you look for another powder that is available and reliably produced. For a fast pistol powder, Clays, Red Dot, Red , 700-X, WST, Bullseye, TiteGroup, American Select all would be possible replacements for you. Good luck, GJ
  2. Yes, poor standards from SAAMI for the chamber dimensions in the WCF cartridges are the root of the problem. A common solution for what the OP found is to load Truncated Cone bullets rather than round nose or RNFP bullets, and seat so the nose cone starts right at the mouth of the case. This lets the taper of the nose fit in a chamber that is cut without a forcing cone or leade. Proper sizing of the selected bullet diameter to the groove diameter of the barrel then can fix the problem of hard chambering when the neck is cut tight. When neck are of chamber is cut TOO SMALL (and not compatible with the barrel groove diameter), as a few manufacturers often do, then recutting the chamber's neck area is needed (chambering finish reamer). And especially with Ruger production, you can find the throat of the revolver cylinders cut way too small - which does not hurt chambering rounds, but it can play Hobbs with accuracy. This is solved with a throating reamer run through all the chambers of the cylinder. With these sloppy standards, each gun then becomes an adventure to figure out exactly what part is "too tight" and what is the effective way to correct that problem. With a WCF cartridge that is causing tight fit problems, a chamber cast and groove slugging are often the very first steps one should take, to make sure you are fixing the right part of the chamber and throat that will cure the real problem. Good luck, GJ
  3. I load Cowboy .45 Special with a 175 grain lead bullet and 4.2 grains of WST, but you will find about 5.0 grains of Unique will work fine, too. Roll crimp firmly. With a 200 grain bullet, you can reduce that powder by about 10%, but you will have a safe load even if you copy my powder weight. Dang, you changed from asking about Unique to asking about Trail Boss! Powders DO make a big difference; make sure you know what you are loading.. OK, Trail Boss for Cowboy 45 Special case and a 200 grain bullet might be about 4.5 grains for a LIGHT load, suitable for any of the single action revolvers. Good luck, GJ
  4. Almost always, stainless fasteners, even made of 416 stainless, are quite a bit softer than heat treated carbon/chrome/vanadium steel (the 4140 and 4130 types often used in firearms). However, I've not see Pietta disclose what alloy they use for various parts of their revolvers. Knowing how soft Uberti's (factory) screws are on blued guns, I would not be surprised to learn that Pietta uses about the same alloys for carbon steel firearms. Good luck, GJ
  5. I'd be working to minimize the "teardown" you are doing to your pistols in mid-match. That will never be fun, even with hex-head screws. First, don't go to matches unless you have your guns tuned up and ready to run 6 stages. Many newer shooters really haven't worked out the glitches in their new guns on the range at their leisure, and then matches cause them grief. Second, make sure your gunsmith screwdrivers exactly fit the screw head notches. If you are not using gunsmith bits or drivers (having parallel tip sections rather than tapered tips like mechanics/household drivers), you need to. If you are not matching the screw's slot width and thickness (this is very important), you need to. I recommend a set from Brownells of the MagnaTip handle(s) and replaceable driver bits that fit. There aren't many sources of hex head fillister screws for Pietta revolvers, because most folks don't take grip frame screws out but maybe once a year. And when they bugger up a screw head, they just get another slotted screw head. What required you to take off the grip frames? Third, resolve that problem. Then you can leave the guns alone and shoot the match like everyone else. You will have a lot more fun. Good luck, GJ
  6. You evidently are not aware that Winchester powder is only a trademark now, and that it is owned and managed by Hodgdon's, with that powder still being manufactured by St Marks of Florida. And, there is no .45 LC. Just .45 Colt, as Colt's Firearms Manufacturing Company invented it and named it. Just use that published data as a top end and work down to what you find is correct. Sheesh! GJ
  7. Probably JC Higgins, one of several Sears private labels for sporting goods, named for a VP of Sears Roebuck and Co. JC Whitney sold mail order auto parts.
  8. Sure. Before they needed an FFL to sell them. Teddy Roosevelt even called his Winchester 1895 in .405 his "Big Medicine." Think Medicare would cover that prescription today? GJ
  9. Most published Cowboy data is pretty mild. So, I use their Cowboy data as a top end limit, and work down. If the pressure starts getting weak, velocity too low, or I suspect I could get a squib, I call that the minimum. When we are working with fast powders in pistol size cartridges, there's nothing much else to be very concerned about except a squib. So, keep your eye on pressure signs (like a flattened or pierced primer), or loads starting to get squibby (especially in cold weather) and use good safety practices. That's probably why they did not feel a need to show either the lower limit, or even an overall length. Use the overall length from the full-power section of loading manuals if you feel a need for one. Good luck, GJ
  10. Western Field (a Mossberg) 500A, 12 gauge pump. Ordered from a Montgomery Wards catalog store. Shortly after turning 18. That gun harvested more than it's weight in doves over my college years. Still have it, it's still a wonderful shotgun. Good luck, GJ
  11. Abilene - about the lightest I will go with BP loads is ounce and eighth of shot and about 45-50 grains BP. With that, I can usually make a wad designed for ounce and eighth work pretty well in either STS or AA hulls by adjusting the powder charge. Guess I don't trust most knockdowns. Good luck, GJ
  12. If the gun was designed and manufactured when Black Powder was the only choice, then, no, don't be using smokeless powder in it. That was great advice when smokeless powder first came out, and it's good now. If you were an expert in interior ballistics, you might be able to conduct research to find out. But you're not, having neither the equipment or experience. Just to save a little cleaning and a little cost of powder, you want to risk blowing up those BP designed guns? Pound foolish for sure. Use either APP or Black MZ. Or real Black, which you say you have "a ton of" Real Black won't hurt your guns, even if you forget to clean them for a day. For loads, just ask. If locals don't have a clue, then ask here. I've got a very nice load with real black in Remington STS/Nitro hulls. Typically, no they won't. They will not leave you enough room for the bulky BP or substitute powders. You will find the Winchester Red wad (WAA12R) or Claybuster copy of it (CB1138-12) to be quite capable of making good smokey shotgun loads. BTW - there are several "normal white" 12 gauge wads. If you want the right shotgun wad, shopping by color is the wrong thing to do. Make sure you have the right manufacturer's NUMBER for the wad you need. Good luck, GJ
  13. Oh-oh! Brass conchos! Brass in contact with tanned leather corrodes pretty quickly and gives that verdigris (green) covering. Even if you clean it once, you will be repeating it every year or so. And those conchos are embedded at the edges into the leather, so you can't really get a protective barrier between metal and leather either while cleaning or when wearing the leather. I'd guess the best approach would be to have a leather maker pull those conchos and put on something of the same or slightly larger size that would be made of german silver (nickel alloy) or even stainless steel. I don't think of a good solution if you leave the brass on that rig. Coating the leather with a sealer would slow down further corrosion, most likely, but not stop it. This approach with baking soda and vinegar MIGHT work for you: https://www.ehow.com/how_6386111_clean-verdigris-stains-leather-brass.html Try it on the back side and see if it cleans the posts without bleaching color out of the leather! As well, a site named LeatherDoctor has products that claim to be able to protect the leather while getting verdigris off, as this post describes: http://www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com/forum/showthread.php?8397-Advice-for-verdigris-removal-from-leather-caused-by-brass-hardware Note - I have not tried either of these approaches myself. I have leather slings with brass hardware, and every year or so, I pop the brass fittings off (chicago screws, buckles, loops) and polish with a good brass polish. And I just ignore any stain on the leather that won't come off with saddle soap. Good luck, GJ
  14. I check their site once a month when looking for a mold that is not a high-volume item. Every once in a while they decide to make a batch of most designs. I probably have 15 molds they made by doing just that. They do make a nice mold. Not as many in brass as I would like, and none in iron. Sigh. I'm sure that a 50 caliber hollow base is real low volume. In fact, a hollow base may be something that no one really wants to cut a mold and plug for..... A couple of high quality mold makers who will turn around a new design (for them) in just a few weeks - Accurate Molds Mountain Molds The Cast Boolits web site has a "group buy" forum where you can recruit or join up on an existing group buy. I think about 10 orders is enough to get NOE's attention, IFRR. See: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/forumdisplay.php?10-Group-Buy-Discussion Good luck, GJ
  15. The Uberti prices I have been seeing are $1500 and up. Pedersoli makes some real nice ones, about that price range, too. NIDK. (Now I DO know) Thanks Tyrel Cody Please, it's Cavalry.
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