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Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

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Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 last won the day on April 23 2018

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About Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

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    Member
  • Birthday November 30

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  • SASS #
    60708 LIFE
  • SASS Affiliated Club
    Buffalo Range Riders, High Desert Drifters, Rio Grande Renegades

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Albuquerque NM
  • Interests
    shooting, hiking, hunting, fishing, building, gun smithing, wood working. SASS Regulator. NSCA super veteran.

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  1. Chinese, huh. Chinese firing pin retainer nut is tapered, so I find a "slit" nut driver socket fits better than most. I took a 9/32" nut driver socket, ground down the outside to get it into the boss around the nut, and with a hacksaw sliced down about halfway into the socket, putting the cut on the nut opposing "corners." This gives me a socket that better fits the tapered nut, and is self adjusting. In metric, an 8 mm socket, IIRC. Has worked for me for 15 years now. good luck, GJ
  2. Also note that 1st and 2nd models don't "bolt lock" the cylinder. The hand presses the cylinder so that the lock bolt sits against the flat end of the latch cut. That means the trigger has to be pulled without backing off pressure during the stroke. The 3rd Models drop the latch bolt into the transverse slot and locks the cylinder when it's aligned with the barrel. For pocket pistol side match, you may never notice this. When the early models get included in main matches and shot by pards not familiar with the gun, they may be less than enthusiastic with their trigg
  3. The Iver Johnson top Breaks that were made for BP only have a cylinder latching lead-in cut that is long, like the picture of the blued IJ above. Their smokeless era top breaks have the shorter cut, like the nickeled S&W in the picture from HH. Perhaps the easiest way to tell for the IJ guns. Since their model labeling scheme is rather complicated. If original gutta percha grips are on the gun (never swapped out with replacements), the owl on the top of grip is also an indicator. Owl looks at cylinder for BP era guns (1st and 2nd Models). Away from cylinder for 3rd Model.
  4. Nope. B&P makes commercial 2.5" shells. I used to keep those on hand for my 97s, then I snipped the mag spring down to let 6 in the mag tube. Believe there are other manufacturers (think British, like GameBore) that also make 'em. good luck, GJ
  5. I do have problems with some lots of Federal 209A primers being hit by my TTN shotguns. After I put in a set of SlixSprings pins in one of them, that TTN has not found a lot which has failed to fire. Put a flat edge across the primer face - if you find a big gap, be careful with that lot of primers. Or use the Winchester or Cheddite primers, which have much flatter faces that seem to be easier for the factory to control the seating depth of the primer cup within the battery cup (outer steel shell) of the primer assembly. good luck, GJ
  6. Asking WHY for SASS rules is usually an exercise in frustration. Unless you personally are going to be writing rules for the sport, it really doesn't matter much. The use of Model 97s is because the SASS cowboy action shooting decided to allow Model 97 pumps into that game early on (and only 97s), and lots of potential WB shooters already had one or more of them. IAC 93/97s hybrids were allowed in to allow the enlarged loading port. Model 12s were allowed in because it was in the WB movie, after all. Others were not. Buy that way, shoot that way, enjoy the sport. Save o
  7. Stripping it down is a pain. Putting it back together right is even more so. Be warned. Mine's not rough, but it won't feed very reliably. good luck, GJ
  8. Hate (literally) the Win 94 I have in .45 Colt. Never runs a magazine without a jam. Stroke long enough to load a .300 Win Mag. No one else wants it either. Guess I'm picky. GJ
  9. Nope. So WHAT if the crimp bites into the copper plating or the poly coating? You are not making bullseye competition ammo. Plinking does not take sub-moa accuracy. You WILL need the stronger bullet "pull" that a roll crimp provides to get the powder to burn well when you are using a fast powder and a light bullet. Use a moderate ROLL crimp, either into the crimp groove or a full-diameter band of the bullet. Won't need a hard bullet (12 BN or harder) for your purposes. Load with 12 grains of Red Dot. Or Unique. Or 7 grains Bullseye. Fire away. You don't wan
  10. '73 easier to take apart for deep cleaning. Much less chance of an Out of Battery discharge. Better fit for most folks statures. The most used rifle in SASS is the 73. So, more likely you can sell one faster (and for more money) than a '66 if you want to later on. The real way to tell - drag your carcass out to a local match and try them out. Bet you will be offered the chance to shoot a wheelbarrow full of guns. Ask lots of questions and thank all the kind cow-folks. good luck, GJ
  11. That is not an appropriate substitution to make unilaterally. With customer permission, perhaps. Those will be stout loads for cowboy. good luck, GJ
  12. Doesn't by itself. It can be a clue, however, that the design may not be pre-1900. Did the design that this specific manufacturer (IJ) used for this model (the Cadet 55-SA) originate with IJ before 1900? No, it first was used by IJ in 1961 or so. So, IMHO, this makes the Cadet not a legal "SASS pocket pistol." I have seen several British Bulldog guns with short barrels used successfully for pocket pistol matches. IMHO, the rules for Pocket Pistol are just about the hardest to understand and make accurate application of, in all of SASS's regulations. Be aware als
  13. I shoot Iver Johnson black powder or smokeless era top breaks. Never had anyone complain that the smokeless gun having better steel and a hammer safety is not legal for pocket pistol. Even though the Third Model were not made until about 1908 - the basic design dates from about 1894. But your IJ Cadet is a LOT newer than that. Most all of those old IJ guns will be "loose" and may not even stay latched when fired. Check them carefully before you by. Make sure the double action still is reliable. Use VERY light smokeless loads. Not even factory 38 S&W ammo if you want t
  14. Regardless of what you think of US police departments and state governments, neither are going to allow multiple home invasions and murders by any group of outlaws. If someone really believes the US will not be able to enforce order in the near future, then yes, something other than a varmint gun is in order. If they are losing chickens, then a better maintained hen house may be in order. Rarely is the head of the house awake when a varmint hits the hen house. Especially if they don't own a dog. A shotgun will be more effective and easier to hit the target with i
  15. Legal if they are break opens, because swing-out cylinder guns not allowed. Also, fixed sight, pre-1900 design with barrel length of four inches or less. You should verify that those exact models you are considering were first made no later than 1899. Not familiar with the H&R 925 model. But it seems to be a top-break gun that was first made in 1964. Which would have adjustable sights and also not meet the 1899 cutoff, IMHO. Have a book on Iver Johnson revolvers, and the only Cadet named model is the Model 55-SA, which was first made in 1965, is solid frame wi
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