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Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

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Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 last won the day on April 23 2018

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About Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

  • Birthday November 30

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  • SASS #
    60708 LIFE
  • SASS Affiliated Club
    Buffalo Range Riders, Rio Grande Renegades

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Albuquerque NM
  • Interests
    shooting, hiking, hunting, fishing, building, gun smithing, wood working. SASS Regulator. NSCA super veteran.

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  1. Shell stop screw. Yep, those tiny screws loosen and fall out. Worth keeping blue loctite on if you want to keep the screw in. BTW - the only correct way to orient the gun to describe where parts are, is when the gun is held in firing position. Left is then on your left, and right is (who woulda thunk it) on your right. Top of the gun is up, etc. good luck, GJ
  2. THAT is an ELBOW carry. Not a trail carry, and not legal for SASS use. good luck, GJ
  3. It's all about the muzzle direction. A one-hand carry with the arm straight down and the muzzle within the 170 deg down range direction is perfectly safe. As you can see, not a lot of folks remember from hunter safety class what "Trail Carry" really is. good luck, GJ
  4. Long range black powder - about a 1 in 20 or 1 in 30 slug (tin to lead) Long range smokeless - whatever the gun shoots best, and does not lead the barrel with your load and lubes. Since each gun has it's own accuracy response to hardness and powder and lube, it's really hard to tell you one answer, because even if it's right for my gun , it quite likely will be wrong for each of yours. For smokeless less than 2000 FPS I often start with a Brinnell Hardness of 20 (wheel weights with maybe 10% linotype added) and work from there. Usually shooting with gas checks. Bullet diameter 0.001" larger than groove diameter in YOUR barrel (so slug it). With the wide spread use of HiTek poly coating, hardness counts less than it used to when proper hardness of a lubed lead alloy slug helped with leading control. And, then there 's heat treating of lead bullets, too, to increase hardness. There may be some silver-colored bullets, but in long range shooting there are NO "silver bullets" that are best for every gun/cartridge/loading. If you want to go down a deep rabbit hole, start reading this forum: https://castboolits.gunloads.com/ or this one: https://www.artfulbullet.com/index.php#discussions.12 good luck, GJ
  5. When you don't standardize parts machining to a well documented blueprint, holding tight tolerances in parts, as Eli Whitney developed back about 1845, then you have to do some part swapping and hand fitting just to get the parts into the gun during factory assembly. Brazilian and Pakistani firearms illustrate this manufacturing nightmare very often. Chinese guns used to have this nature, too. To our detriment, they at least learned a Whitney approach. good luck, GJ
  6. And you may not realize I trust almost nothing self-published on YT.
  7. Hammer forging, if the mandrel has some circumferential defects in the surface, could make those marks all the way around the lands and grooves. Was not aware Ruger was using hammer forged revolver barrels. OP may just have to live with those minor divots in the barrel. Thanks, GJ
  8. They will if they want to sell me one. I carry a borelight and a cleaning kit into gun stores. One in Mesa AZ got a big kick of me taking a M1 Garand down to do a 5 minute inspection before money changed hands. good luck, GJ
  9. There is no machine that makes a circular mark across both the lands and the grooves of a barrel at the same spot in the barrel. The bore (what becomes the lands) is cut with a deep hole drill and, if lucky, is precision reamed after that. Those give mostly circular marks on the lands. But the grooves are cut or swaged with a broaching type tool that runs lengthwise down the barrel, with a twist of the cutting head to give the twist rate. That tooling leaves just lengthwise marks, and sometimes chatter marks across the grooves, but only in the grooves. So, completely circular rings in the barrel on both the lands and grooves do not come from any of the cutting operations that Ruger would perform. Look at the rings - they cross both the lands AND the grooves at the same exact spot down the barrel. good luck, GJ
  10. The new Ruger handguns I have bought come with 2 (TWO) fired cases each. Hardly enough to leave that much fouling. And certainly nothing that would put circular defects or rings in both the lands and grooves of a barrel. Even if Ruger retains 2 or 3 cases (which they have never said they do), that is not enough in my experience to foul a barrel that badly. And I am even more certain that Ruger does not provide fired cases to individual states' Crime Forensics departments without evidence that a crime has been committed. (That is why police are SO dedicated to picking up any fired cases from any crime scene - they have to get their own cases.) good luck, GJ
  11. Those show very clearly that the color deposited on the lands is copper (gilding metal ) fouling! Keep copies of all your photos shown so far. The gun dealer should be smart enough to realize you know what you are talking about, but you may have to double down in this age of denying of all responsibility in any thing that goes wrong. good luck, GJ
  12. Guns are made from 410 series stainless steel. This family of alloys CAN rust. As can a family of cheaper knife blades, 440 SS. The SS alloys folks are more used to, like 316 SS, are much more resistant to rust. The word stainless or stain-resistant is quite accurate. Thinking that means stain proof or rust proof, is wrong. good luck, GJ
  13. Looks to me from the grainy photos that this is copper fouling on the lands from jacketed rounds already fired. The very few reddish streaks that occur in the grooves of the barrel run lengthwise down the barrel. Rust would not create a uniform narrow streak in the middle of a groove. That copper fouling on the lands would not concern me, in itself. But I doubt Ruger would have shipped the gun without cleaning the fouling out of the barrel! This gun has been shot and is not new. The "rings" are not what would be expected on a new barrel, for sure. Because these marks are uniformly occurring on both the groove and the land sections of the barrel, this could not have been a manufacturing defect, most likely, but was caused by squibbed (stuck) bullets "shot into" with regular power loads fired behind the stuck bullets. If they are deep-enough rings to hurt accuracy, you would feel it if you pushed a tight cleaning patch both directions in the barrel. The cleaning rod would jump forward slightly at some points in the stroke - an uneven amount of pressure needed to move the cleaning rod and patch. If you indeed have rings which moved the barrel metal out in several spots, this would also say this was not a NEW gun, and more importantly, that a customer abused the gun and ringed the barrel, then returned it to the gun shop. That certainly should be remedied by the seller (or manufacturer if needed) - provide an actual new gun to replace this used one. I'd suggest, though, that you not clean the gun or do any other work on it until you get action from the gun dealer, or perhaps Ruger themselves. good luck, GJ
  14. Then professional tuning the Uberti probably will do the same. GJ
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