Garrison Joe, SASS #60708

Sure does. Exactly the shell plate/pins I use. The C45S is just a cut off .45 Colt case. Good luck, GJ

Not very fast, and probably hard to find holsters to carry them. But lots of style points, "Bat"!

No, stains of any type will not provide protection! You have to finish with something. Oils - modified boiled linseed oils like TruOil or LinSpeed - the conventional finish for guns before 1950s. Very easy to touch up a ding, scratch or rub mark. Depending upon how you final-sand or polish an oil finish, you can get matte, semigloss or gloss shine. You won't like it if you oil until you get a mirror finish, at least not past the first ride in a gun cart at a match. Varnishes - dries faster, more fragile, will chip and ding and requires more work to touch up Polyurethane modified varnishes, spar varnish, outdoor varnish - hard finish, withstands weather best, but just about has to be removed and refinished when it gets ragged to look nice. Sprayed on then baked by factory arms makers now when they actually provide wood furniture (rather than plastic). Most cowboys use the traditional oils since we ding up guns a lot and some of us will renew the finish periodically. BTW - I have never found the combined stain/ varnish finish stuff to be something I want on a fine gun. Good luck, GJ

Shortest OAL length that the toggle link guns will handle is almost completely governed by the slope angle of the cartridge return ramp on the front of the carrier. To get it to handle shorter lengths, the ramp can be filed to a shallower angle. What that does is allow a fairly short second cartridge's rim to be pushed back into the mag tube as the carrier starts to rise. The factory machines their carriers so that the minimum length is usually about 1.500" (but they don't hold that very precisely). Most replacement third party carriers have a shallower ramp angle and can handle shorter rounds. But, the limit for how far you can go with ramp adjustment - you DO NOT want to file into the cavity for the lifter arm that is in back of that ramp! As you can see from all the reports above, it is possible to adjust ramps so that you can run as short as 1.420" if you want and have the right carrier. And as you can see from the reports, not all bullets have the crimp groove in the best spot to make the round "long" so you can put light bullets in .38 spl cases and make them run. That is when you might learn that crimping in the crimp groove is not necessary if you know how to crimp into one of the driving bands! Personally, I cast a soft bullet (8 Brinell hardness) that usually has NO crimp groove, and crimp where ever I want to get the OAL that I want to run. Gives great versatility in loading. And eliminates leading at our usual chamber pressures and velocities. Good luck, GJ

Yep. Dark Walnut will work on the Uberti Italian walnut. The red color of the factory stock is just stain - not the wood. But it's under a poly urethane varnish top coat, so that has to come off also. So, most pards strip the existing stain with a good gel stripper. I like Crown TuffStrip myself. Others also use the orange based CitriStrip type removers Don't Sand! The factory fits the stocks pretty closely to the metal, and heavy sanding drops the walnut below the metal surface, which is pretty evident. Strip by using a plastic "scraper" and brushes. Rinse off any chemical remains using the solvent that the stripper container specifies. Let dry. Steam out any dents you want to raise. Dry, dewhisker with plastic scrubbie pads. If you must sand, use about 180 grain paper and work very lightly. Then stain. I use Minwax oil type stain due to their wide color ranges and good penetration. I like a "touch" of red in a stock, so I put a little "redwood" or "mediterranean Red" in the cup with Walnut stain, and wipe that on. Let dry and finish with your favorite oil, varnish, etc. I like TruOil brand linseed for it's quicker drying. Hand rub that in and apply 3+ coats to fill the pores and get to a surface finish that is solid. Good luck, GJ

I'd say if you can find the buyer who wants that work, you could get $700-750 a piece for those. Sure are good looking irons. I take it those are 38/357 guns, which could move faster than others. You almost never get the full cost of the action job OR the engraving back. If you get half of those add ons, you are lucky. Good luck, GJ

Yes, you can get a new "New Model" Vaquero with Bisley style grips and hammer. https://ruger.com/products/vaqueroBisley/models.html (don't get confused that they label this page Original Old West Single Action - it's the New small, SAA size frame.) Yes, the New Model frame is lighter than the original, old model frame. Yes, you can get a used (old model) Bisley Vaquero if you search for them, but they are no longer available new. Good luck, GJ

It's the Stoeger design/materials/workmanship that are prone to severe failure, and Stoeger's virtually non-existant repair service that are to blame. Good quality side-by-sides continue to run for years in SASS matches. SKB or BSS are the tops. A Miroku 500 is excellent value. If you are going to an 87 shotgun to have less failure and heart break, you are going the wrong direction, unless you are DEVOTED to both a great initial setup of the 87 and lots of practice. Good luck, GJ

Lots of times a problem can be felt even if it can't be seen. Steve's Gunz (Nate Kiowa Jones on here) knows his way around a TTN shotgun real well. Might have him take a look. https://stevesgunz.com/ Call him and see if he has time to look at it. Good luck, GJ

?? Hardly a symptom of loose mainspring retaining screws....

The TTN firing pin is not a very heavily engineered piece - pretty simple. I would imagine your pins rusted a little (or are heavily fouled) and need to be cleaned, polished and oiled until they move with light finger pressure. Clean cap and pin well, make sure spring is not collapsed or jammed, oil well and try pushing the pin and spring without the cap covering it. It should protrude through the breech face about the thickness of a nickle when fully pushed by hand with a punch. If it will not emerge from the breech face, examine the FP tip's hole and the FP's bore hole for debris or burrs. Burrs at the breech face can be smoothed out with an appropriate size drill bit held in a "pin vise" handle and hand turned carefully. Won't be long before you spot the problem. Some double shotguns peen the firing pin tip so it enlarges and does not fit through the breech face hole. Stoegers are notorious. TTN's are not, but it could be you got non-heat treated FPs. Anyway, I'll second the part about polishing the FP and not the receiver bore unless you are SURE that the bore has rusted up and really needs to be returned to the original inside diameter. That is, work on the cheap part, not the irreplaceable part. Good luck, GJ

Magnum primer in cold weather will help a lot. Then up powder load. Trail Boss and Clays, and some others, can get weak in cold weather when loaded as light as Cowboys do. Good luck, GJ.

Yes, the C45S loads look nice. Now, I'd take a look at your .45 Colt crimp. I see a couple of cartridges that have a perfectly lousy crimp - the case mouth is hanging out past the lead and waiting to snag a barrel breech while trying to hit the chamber. All look less than robust. Good luck, GJ

His number: 605-343-8481 Web Site: https://jack-first-gun-parts.myshopify.com/ Has been good many times for hard to find parts! Good luck, GJ

Well, instructions were to ENGAGE the rack targets with 6 shots. Engaging and missing a rack target with the 7th shot seems to be a Procedural the way the stage instructions read. Now, if the instructions said HIT the six rack targets - I could agree. Good luck, GJ