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Darksider question for those that shoot real BP (not substitutes)


Sgt. Hochbauer, SASS #64409

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I would not hesitate to use them in a handgun at SASS distances.   I have used bullets greased with crayon-type wax lube and completely unlubricated bullets in handguns without issue.

 

However, if I were to load them for rifle ammo, I would definitely fill the lube grooves with a black powder compatible lubricant.  

 

This opinion only concerns real black powder, not synthetic or the substitute stuff.

 

Your mileage may vary.

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I shoot with a Pard that used them in his rifle. Claims no issue thru 6 stages, then he cleans the barrel for the next day. No personal experience however.

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I shoot GOEX with Slippery Coated Bullets in my revolvers and have not had any issues.

 

I tried dipping every other bullet in Crisco for two matches just to see if it made a difference.  I could not see the benefit.

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In your pistols you'll never have problems if you put a little dab of BP compatible lube on the exposed part of the bullet of the first round fired out of each pistol every stage. No need to glob it on just put a small amount on the bullet as you insert it or wipe a little into that chamber before you insert the first round.

 

In your rifle it depends a lot on the on the weather, how long your barrel is, and how clean the powder you are using is.

I know of one person that was using powder coated bullets and adding a BP compatible lube to the lube grooves of the bullets as part of his reloading process. Seems like a lot of work to me. I can say that at some matches he had no issues and at others he was having lots of problems with his rifle.

 

Were it me I would save them for smokeless.

 

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I've used them a few times in pistols and real bp. They're not bad but does require a little extra work cleaning up. Not much but seems to me that the fouling is a bit harder than with bp lubed lead bullets. I've never used coated bullets in my rifle so idk on that. 

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Again, just my opinion and my experience...

 

I've been shooting a 24 inch 44-40 with real black powder for about seven years and a 24 inch .45 Colt prior to that.  After three or so stages with dry bullets or wax lube, neither of them would keep ten shots on a paper plate at ten yards.  My rifles just don't work well without a generous amount of black powder-appropriate lubricant.  Others here have no complaints.  

 

Just give them a try without lube.  If they suit you, then you're in tall cotton.  If not, grease 'em up and you're still in tall cotton!

 

Good luck!

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Also some shooters use a boresnake after every stage and spritz with moosemilk, ballistol or whatever they use. Along with wiping the cylinder face regularly. With good black powder lubed bullets that hold enough lube you don't need to do any of that for a 5-6 stage day.

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6 hours ago, Jackalope said:

Again, just my opinion and my experience...

 

I've been shooting a 24 inch 44-40 with real black powder for about seven years and a 24 inch .45 Colt prior to that.  After three or so stages with dry bullets or wax lube, neither of them would keep ten shots on a paper plate at ten yards.  My rifles just don't work well without a generous amount of black powder-appropriate lubricant.  Others here have no complaints.  

 

Just give them a try without lube.  If they suit you, then you're in tall cotton.  If not, grease 'em up and you're still in tall cotton!

 

Good luck!

This has been my experience too. When I used anything but Big Lube bullets or a grease cookie, accuracy went down the toilet fast. 
 

But I say to try them yourself. Your mileage may vary. 

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If you wouldn't lube them with smokeless, changing to BP ought not affect their performance.  In a rifle I'd want a lube cookie to keep the fouling soft. 

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Thinking we are mixing up lubed vs coated bullets. Using a non-petroleum based "lubed" bullet is recommended...coated/non-coated bullets seem to be fine.

 

GG ~:FlagAm:

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I’ve had no issues with coated bullets and BP whatsoever.  I also quit lubing poly-coated bullets some time ago.   My routine for a typical six-stage match, is as follows:

 

-High quality, clean burning BP and that would be Swiss.  When shooting Swiss, particularly 3F,  barrel fouling is not significant, even after two or three stages.  

 

-Full case .38 Special with no filler and            tight crimp which creates enough pressure to seal cases and minimize blow by. 

 

-After third stage,  pull Vaquero cylinders and wipe face and forcing cone down, squirt Ballistol/water mix down barrel followed with bore snake and a touch of Ballistol on cylinder pin and face;  for my Piettas with tighter cylinder gaps, it’s every second stage in dry climates as they start to bind a bit sooner. 

-Same barrel/snake routine for 1873-not concerned about precision accuracy at CAS ranges-then spray Ballistol on carrier/action after each stage.  

-Have a rag handy  to quickly wipe down pistols and clean the slippery mess off your hands….. 

 

This has worked for me from the hot, humid  Gulf Coast to the hot, dry Nevada desert.   

 

It seemed like I ended up following this routine even when using coated bullets I lubed/loaded so I just dropped that step from the process.  
 

Make smoke and have fun shooting those pretty colored bullets.  
 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Sorry it's been a while.  I shoot 44-40s in 1866 carbines and squirt ballistol in the barrel and action before the match and have never lubed the poly coated bullets, I've shot 8 stages in one day without any problems.  If its a multi day shoot I always clean all my guns.  I shoot 44 cap and ball with crisco on top of the balls.  I never use lube pad in my bullets only Swiss Black...  Enjoy Outlaw

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