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Turkey Flats Jack

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Everything posted by Turkey Flats Jack

  1. In need of a Miroku made Winchester 73 mainspring. Thanks T.F. Jack
  2. In small amounts it'll hold up ok. I never cared for it personally. It takes bushings for the dies so just 1 more thing to buy. If I'm not mistaken it's aluminum so kinda questionable on how much you can cram on it without it tweaking. I'd add the little extra and get the classic cast if you're set on a single stage. It is cast steel and you have the option of using ⅞ or 1" die sets
  3. Exactly that. That's how I've always held my 58s and 75s.
  4. Time off request has been submitted and management has been informed that I will be calling off sick if not approved
  5. For the mag tech hulls you need 11ga wads and nitro cards. They work in the thicker hulls too just harder to seat. Then a 10ga overshot card. Definitely need to pattern your loads til you find one that's not blowing holes in the shot. For me that's 43 gr of 2f and 1⅛ oz shot. Or go with plastic wads.
  6. I believe I inherited some 45/70 brass that had been converted. If someone would be kind enough to send me the dimensions I'll check what I have and for the cost of shipping I'd be happy to send it your way.
  7. There's a company that makes 44/40 cylinders for ruger 44 mag/spl . Might be worth looking into and save you a few bucks. http://rugercyl.com/ruger-cylinders/
  8. Hmmmm interesting. Double check the ratchet/gears on the cylinder for a burr, check the channel where the hand spring rides for burrs/machine marks that maybe obstructing the hands travel. Also check the hand for abnormalities compared to the other hand. Wish you were local to me I enjoy figuring these things out but I'm not great at blind diagnosis. Good luck and keep us updated.
  9. NMV with gunfighter grips and either SBH or bisley hammers works well for small hands. But if she really likes the navy colt sized gripframes then there's the option of having the hammers lowered by a gun smith. If I'm not mistaken uberti or pietta have the lightning, stallion, model p jr models that are built on a smaller frame but I have no hands on experience with those. Good luck
  10. Yep that's pretty much my thought on it also. But I can also see how someone that's never seen or done it could draw a line to larping.
  11. In my experience its most likely the sear notch on the hammer is worn or broken off. Couple options if that's the case. Not worry about it, cut a new notch, or replace the hammer.
  12. The "best" is a matter of opinion. I personally have a deep sink and a hose on the hot water nozzle. For pistols and shotgun I run hot water through the barrel, put a couple drops of dawn on the bore brush and scrub the barrel. Then rinse with hot water. Run a couple patches through to dry it. Then a mop with bore butter to treat the bore. The rifle is basically the same but I put a spent case in the chamber and use a funnel to fill the bore with hot water. I do that a couple times before scrubbing it with dawn and a bore brush. Then rinse it a few times till there's no more bubbles. I keep a can of wd 40 handy in case I accidentally splash water into the action. If that happens I spray the insides with the wd. Now that's for my 44/40s. When I shot 45s I'd have to pull the side panels and scrub all the blowby out also. I'd pull the furniture off to do that in the deep sink.
  13. Sorry, that sucks. I've been fairly fortunate on here with only 1 very minor issue but I got taken on some brass in a fb cowboy group.
  14. Don't know what availability is but they are listed in the catalog for $21.99
  15. This won't last! Great price on a unicorn in today's market. For those that don't know its the exact same as the TTN. I regret selling mine.
  16. I have a pair of grips that I'd like to strip and refinish. They've got such a red hue they almost look fake to me. What's the best way to strip the clear coat? I'd prefer not to sand if I can. Also any recommendations on what top coal to use once I've stained them again would be appreciated. Thanks, T.F. Jack
  17. That is exactly what I use and I believe it was either circle fly wads or track of the wolf that recommended those sizes. People saying don't crimp brass hulls I disagree I absolutely do. It's not necessary if you're gluing in overshot cards but I prefer to add some bp lube over the card and then crimp. The issue with the crimp is it can be a bear to get the case mouth opened back up to get the wads in on the next reload. Annealing fixes that issue. As for paper hulls I used plastic wads and it worked just fine. But I'm pretty sure circle fly sells the proper fiber and nitro wads for them. I might have some old ones laying around if you want to give them a try you can have them for the cost of shipping. Just send me a pm Jack
  18. I run .429 lead through mine and the accuracy is just fine. Mine had been sent back to ruger and repaired well before I got them. I have noticed that the tolerances are extremely tight. I ended up replacing my lee die set for a redding die set and haven't had a single failure to chamber since doing so. There's a few threads in here on reloading for the 44/40 on the wire. Definitely the most problematic round I've ever dealt with when it comes to reloading.
  19. 7.5" 44/40 with 165gr big lube bullet and 15 grains of 2f is my personal favorite. But then again I've never noticed recoil when there's smoke and flames involved lol
  20. My dad used win 231 for his cowboy loads. 5.7 grains with a 200 grain pil. Works well also and reduces the recoil further but not so much as the spotters mistake you for a 38 shooter. I prefer wst at 5.2 grains as it saves a little powder per round and imo is just about equivalent to the 5.7 of 231. Never had any accuracy issues at cowboy distances out to about 15 yards.
  21. Just for this game. My smokeless .357 ammo is currently $0.073 per round or $3.63 per box of 50. My BP 44/40 is $0.022 per round and $1.09 per box of 50. My plastic BP shotshells are $0.166/ea or $4.15/box. That's with essentially free once fired hulls and reclaimed shot from a local trap range. My brass hulls reloads are roughly $5.75 a box because of the added expense of fiber wads, nitro cards and overshot cards. Now those are pre covid prices. Still using primers and powder I got at a store close out. I make my own BP and cast my .429 lead from free wheel weights another cowboy gifted me. I'm not factoring in brass or my time. I figure the brass and equipment has long since paid for itself. I'm not looking forward to adding up what the cost per round will be once I start using those $90/1000 primers and $40/lb powder.
  22. I have 2 44-40 cylinders in the spare parts bin. I'm not sure what manufacturer they're from. If you're not in a big rush send me the measurements and I'll check when I get home next week. T.F. Jack
  23. Uberti made an announcement saying that the company that provided the pin for the safety device had issues with the hardening process and they had used it for a while before finding out. Any newer versions should not have the same issues as the first batch released.
  24. Yes. The dual drum works just fine but doesn't have enough capacity for my likes. For a few dollars more the Frankford arsenal holds triple that of the dual drum harbor freight tumbler.
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