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jasper stone

Stoeger coach gun

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I might be crazy but have I seen a post for a stoeger for a left hand shooter, that the lever moves to the left to open?

If so what is the trick to doing so?

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Found this Jasper. Not a lot of info but looks like it can be done if you find the right 'smith.

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Just shoot it poorly like I do!;)

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Just got mine.  Any at home slicking up recommendations? In order to break it open I have to slam it over my knee.

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32 minutes ago, Wyoma said:

Just got mine.  Any at home slicking up recommendations? In order to break it open I have to slam it over my knee.

 

Here’s a link to Marauder’s page Slicking up a Stoeger  About ½ way down he explains how to correct for stiff opening with an empty gun. 

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Take a case of shells out and shoot them up.  That will likely take the stiffness out of it. 

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3 hours ago, Wyoma said:

Just got mine.  Any at home slicking up recommendations? In order to break it open I have to slam it over m knee.

Order a $5 reduced tension lever spring from longhunt.com

That alone works awesome.

You could also hone and chamfer chambers a bit

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13 hours ago, Wyoma said:

Just got mine.  Any at home slicking up recommendations? In order to break it open I have to slam it over my knee.

 The safety on mine is very hard to engage which made the gun open hard because of the auto safety feature. I disabled the auto part but left the safety functional manually, big improvement.

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On 10/16/2020 at 4:39 PM, jasper stone said:

I might be crazy but have I seen a post for a stoeger for a left hand shooter, that the lever moves to the left to open?

If so what is the trick to doing so?

I don’t know the answer, but I would contact Shotgun Boogie to ask if and how?

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Stoegers will loosen up the more you shoot them until they eventually just fall apart.  Pretty good guns for the money.  Just expect to replace them eventually when they do wear out.

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10 minutes ago, Badlands Bob #61228 said:

Stoegers will loosen up the more you shoot them until they eventually just fall apart.  Pretty good guns for the money.  Just expect to replace them eventually when they do wear out.

I gotta laugh when I read these comments... I've been using the same 2 Stoeger shotguns since 1986 in CAS.  Unlike many, I didn't prematurely "wear" it out by making it so loose that it fell open, or remove so much metal from from the extractor or barrel mouths that headspace is compromised.  Simply deburr the thing, hone the chambers so they're smoother, and either replace or reduce the lever spring to ease opening it up.  Make sure to use smooth sided shotshells..

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What's the story behind the smooth sided shotshells?

 

My stoeger has a 100% chance of only firing 1 barrel when cocked. No rhyme or reason, not consistently the same barrel either. Need to send it back.

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Great advice, thanks.  I think I'll start with the conservative approach.  Deburr, polish and a commercially produced spring.  That way I won't turn my cheap shotgun into a cheap non-functioning shotgun.  By the way, they're not that cheap anymore.

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Lighter spring and deactivate safety works great for us lefties. 

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8 hours ago, Tall Tale Todd said:

What's the story behind the smooth sided shotshells?

 

My stoeger has a 100% chance of only firing 1 barrel when cocked. No rhyme or reason, not consistently the same barrel either. Need to send it back.

Smooth sided shotshells vs ribbed is a controversial subject regard their respective abilities to "fall" out of the chamber after being fired.  When I started in this game, I first used a 1919 Riverside Arms side-by-side, (basically the same as a Stevens 311, so much so that the parts interchange!)  I didn't do anything to it, just showed up at my first several matches with it and shot.  Now, I was using Remington "Blue Magic" shells, and those were the only thing that the guys that took pity on this pilgrim  found satisfactory in my gear.  IMO, "Blue Magic" shotshells are the epitome of what a good shotshell should be!  Even with un-polished chambers those hulls would fall right out of my old abused Riverside.  Ribbed hulls would not.  That's been my experience, and many others have seconded that opinion.  With a pump or lever shotgun, the smooth sided hull is not as crucial... unlike an extractor only side-by-side where only gravity and/or inertia are the motivating factors inducing your hull to vacate the chamber.

 

I'm of the opinion that ribbed hulls allow blowback gases to have more surface area to affect the smooth extraction with gravity and inertia alone.  I was wrong once, so it "could" happen again... I shoulda never let my Dad talk me into returning the '50 Ford Woody wagon I'd bought for $50 when I was 15...   Yep, that was a mistake.

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Larsen Pettifogger had a great "slicking up" article back around 10/2008 in the "Chronicle". If you can't find it let me know and I'll do some research and find it for you. It was a 2 parter and quite easy for a kitchen table gunsmith. I've been running mine for 9 years now with no issues. Knock on wood!!! I shoot both smokeless and real BP out of it. I did however have the forcing cone lengthened and polished which made cleaning easier over the machined and NOT polished factory cone.

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After about 10 years of shooting, my lever spring was just as stiff as new.  I ordered custom lighter spring which eased the lever opening pressure but then recoil of the first shell fired would reset the safety before I could fire second shell.  Tried to tighten up safety mechanism to no avail.  Finally cut rod to remove auto safety function but retain manual safety if needed.  Since I only shoot this gun at matches and do not loan out to non-cowboy shooters it was a compromise I can live with.  :FlagAm:

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Making the release lever swing both ways isn't hard. I did this to my Stoeger. Remove the stock and the release rod and spring. That allows the locking lug to pe pulled back, allowing you to pull the locking lever out of the top of the action.  Notice there is a "bump" on the left side of the top of the round part. That bump is what is stopping the release lever from being pushed to the left. I filed that off f mine and reassembled. Now my release lever will swing either right or left. 

 

NOTE:. I am not a gunsmith, just a kitchen table tinkerer. It worked on mine, but do his at your own risk.  Hopefully others will chime in, either for or against this mod.

 

Sam Sackett

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2 minutes ago, Sam Sackett said:

Making the release lever swing both ways isn't hard. I did this to my Stoeger. Remove the stock and the release rod and spring. That allows the locking lug to pe pulled back, allowing you to pull the locking lever out of the top of the action.  Notice there is a "bump" on the left side of the top of the round part. That bump is what is stopping the release lever from being pushed to the left. I filed that off f mine and reassembled. Now my release lever will swing either right or left. 

 

NOTE:. I am not a gunsmith, just a kitchen table tinkerer. It worked on mine, but do his at your own risk.  Hopefully others will chime in, either for or against this mod.

 

Sam Sackett

Outstanding!! cheerleaders.gif.2ac409b61c7a193c6f20d012d5c1bd4b.gif

You may not be a gunsmith but you obviously spent the night at the Holiday Inn. 

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On 10/17/2020 at 3:37 AM, Wyoma said:

Just got mine.  Any at home slicking up recommendations? In order to break it open I have to slam it over my knee.


Your barrel lug is getting ready to break.
Just like mine did... new Coach Supreme, broke the lug on the 12th shell at the trap range.
Get it to a gun smith before it dies.

This will destroy the gun, and necessitate a replacement under their 5 year warranty.
They will send you a pre-paid (uninsured) shipping label.
If you want it insured, you have to buy your own shipping.

Here in CA, replacement means a new DROS fee ($50) a new Background check ($40), a new 10-day waiting period, and shipping delays in both directions.
 

Edited by bgavin

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My 2001 Stoger is still chugging along. Well worth the $275 new. I reload STS's with 3/4 oz. Loads. Only issue was the barrel regulation, nothing that good smith cured for $$$. I just slathered the hinge with valve lapping compound and opened/closed it 1K times + cut it to a manual safety.

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I *really* wanted mine to be "the" one.
Bought the stainless firing pins, set of chokes, etc.
Then it died.

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