Tequila Shooter

I see that, those are terrible! You might want to reach out to CCI and show them the picture, who knows maybe they’ll replace them.

When you say “not fond of” what do you mean? The caps won’t seat? They fall off? I’ve been using Slixx with CCI #11’s and haven’t had any issues (yet), I hope I didn’t just anger the cap gods Anyway, CCI #11 or Remington #10 should work just fine.

I use a Dillon XL650 with the case feeder and I’m loading .45C. That said, I wet tumble and always deprime first. When I first started wet tumbling I didn’t deprime first and had some FTF, long story short I traced it to wet primer pockets. With the Dillon I use a head with just a depriming die, yes it’s another step, but it eliminated all my FTF issues. Why not take a sample of your fired cases and deprime them and see how the pockets look, then you can decide if they warrant cleaning or not, I have a feeling you won’t need to clean them very often. Then if you wet tumble with the primers in I’d take a sample after they’ve dried and deprime them and see if the primer pockets are wet/damp.

IMHO no matter what is used it has to have a perforated bottom. So many times I’m at the ULT trying to get off the table before the next shooter gets there and when the brass shows up it’s all mixed up with rocks and debris. Personally I use the bucket and string method, it will sit on the floor.

Sounds like you’ve made a lot of changes. Lots of luck I hope you get a lot of shooters!

I’d be a player, but they’re a little over my price range. But they are beautiful guns.

For that kind of money I’d get a Colt SAA and not an obsolete ROA.

I’m sorry I forgot to say that I’m using Slix nipples with CCI #11 caps. @July Smith no fragmenting, the caps are split on the sides. The big issue is that after each shot the spent cap jams between the frame and cylinder. I’ll double check the hammers and smooth if necessary.

I’ve got 2 Pietta 1858 NMAs in .44. I’ve got the same problem with both and I’m frustrated what to do to fix it. I’m getting cap suck, I thought it was due to light hammer springs, letting the hammers rebound off the cap. I changed both hammer springs with new Wolf springs, the hammers are definitely stronger than the old ones. My load is pretty much full chambers of 3F APP with a wad and then the ball. Is there anything that I’m missing?

PM answered. Still looking

I realize this might be a long shot but I’m looking for a 5.5 inch Old Army. Stainless or Blued, if you have a pair and want to sell both I might be interested. PM me if you’re willing to sell one.

I’m shooting in Arkansas this weekend, when I get back I’ll get in touch with you IRT a leather sewing machine. In the meantime you can look at this forum Leatherworker they have a whole section on machine sewing. As far as an inlay they are more work but IMHO they look better than a wrapped skin.

Ain’t that something, I’ve got a good leather sewing machine, but I don’t have and Rattler skins. Too bad we are so far apart we could’ve hooked up. Do you ever sell the skins ready for use?

For getting the pins out I use a rare earth magnet stuck to a small piece of 1 X 1 tube steel. The Strat-O-Sheen is great, instead of Dawn I use a little car wash/wax. As for drying I use a black U-Haul mat and set them in the sun, couple of hours later they’re good to go.

Athalon and Vortex probably have the best warranty. After having a cheapo scope and not even being able to spot a 300 yard target I broke down and bought a Vortex. Do your research to find what works for your requirements and budget.