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Warden Callaway

Lining for gun box?

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I got for Christmas a heavy wooden box of enough size that I decided that I could store all my accoutrements needed for my two Pietta Confederate Navy 44s.    Then I got to thinking that I could include a lift-out top tray and store the guns in there as well.  

 

But what to line the box?   It won't be used for display - more of a range box.  

 

I'm thinking something like the black rubber mat that is used in tool drawers. 

 

Any suggestions? 

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I'd use leather or felt myself.

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There are some embossed western themed fabrics on amazon that look very nice. I’ve use the tool box liner before but it doesn’t have much character.

409201ED-B67D-4130-B870-4A86969BD16C.jpeg

8C50F1B0-19E4-4E7A-9B8C-7CD367553350.jpeg

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I'd vote for some felt and a quantity of desiccant.

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We live in a very humid environment.  50% is low. 90% overnight is common. 

 

I'm concerned with any kind of cloth that it will draw moisture.  Same with leather.  But there are also leathers that are tanned using a process that can promote rust(?). 

 

Maybe put them in silicone socks?

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We live in a very humid environment.  50% is low. 90% overnight is common. 

 

I'm concerned with any kind of cloth that it will draw moisture.  Same with leather.  But there are also leathers that are tanned using a process that can promote rust(?). 

 

Maybe put them in silicone socks?

Warden, the lining in the pictures is a nylon upholstery fabric and doesn’t draw moisture like leather does. It is very durable also.

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Might have to make a project out of it.  Maybe I can incorporate a loading stand?

 

I'm about finished with a project I started a couple of days ago.  And have another project right after that. 

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I use closed cell polyethylene foam for my firearm cases. It is relatively rigid and slick so it holds guns securely in close proximity to each other without risk of damage.

 

I scrounge it from shipping crates but you can buy it relatively inexpensively. Typically I use  1" and 2' thick sheets. This way I can cut the outlines in layers and then glue together for the final outline. I then cover it with heavy wool trade cloth.

 

For short term storage I have had no issues with rust.

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If the pieces to be stored are metal and have oil on then felt would work the best, as it will absorb any moisture and keep it off the tools. Leather can be OK, but some do indeed promote corrosion, like chrome tanned. If you line with plastic and there is any kind of moisture on the tool when put away it will just sit there and rust the tool.

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Remember your physics-condensation only forms on a surface that is colder than the surrounding air.  Storing guns where they can stay relatively warm provides a layer of safety from condensation.  As does a thin film of grease.  ;)

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i was going to suggest cedar or perhaps boat carpet that doesnt hold moisture 

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Posted (edited)
 

There are some embossed western themed fabrics on amazon that look very nice. I’ve use the tool box liner before but it doesn’t have much character.

409201ED-B67D-4130-B870-4A86969BD16C.jpeg

8C50F1B0-19E4-4E7A-9B8C-7CD367553350.jpeg

Yul, every time I get a look at another pic of one of your carts, I'm just astounded.  I need to take space here to compliment your nice craftsmanship and artfull detailing.  You definitely know what "good work" is all about.  Very, VERY NICE !   

In the distant past, I built high end classical and flamenco guitars that often sold in the $3-5K range.   They had to be flawless perfect to bring those prices. Your workmanship, albeit a different style (and style it has!) appears equivalent, or perhaps better.  I look forward to seeing one of your art pieces up close some day.   Again, very nice! 

Edited by Dusty Devil Dale
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I have used felt from craft stores, available in a variety of colors, in one foot squares, and inexpensive. Some are even self stick.

 

Imis

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I picked some sheets of heavy (1/8 in)cork that I thought might make nice drawer lining        GW

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1156840307_WoodenboxJan2020.jpg.b9951d5d40128cb32b313b472a4ff050.jpg

 

Here is the box.  Measures 14" wide, 10" tall and 9" deep outside dimensions.  I'm reasonable sure it's made of western red cedar.  

 

Not going for fancy or to show. Just something that will protect the guns from scratchs and not promote rust.

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Quote

Any suggestions? 

Felt ...

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28 minutes ago, John Boy said:

Felt ...

 

"Felt can be highly absorbent, and can retain many times its weight in fluids."  

 

Is this a good thing or bad thing? 

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Just a point on leather and guns: NEVER use chrome-tanned leather for holsters, scabbards, etc.  Use vegetable-tanned leather only!  Although I have my old hunting handgun, blued, that I have stored in its unlined holster for about 50 years :o , and also have a felt-lined box that holds a replica Walker Colt, I live in the Rocky Mountain region, which is pretty dry.  So I won't recommend either in a humid climate.  Of course, it is always best to periodically remove any metal articles and wipe them down with a moisture-displacing oil, like RIG, or at least a gun cloth.

Happy New Year, Pards!

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On 12/31/2019 at 7:36 PM, Yul Lose said:

There are some embossed western themed fabrics on amazon that look very nice. I’ve use the tool box liner before but it doesn’t have much character.

409201ED-B67D-4130-B870-4A86969BD16C.jpeg

8C50F1B0-19E4-4E7A-9B8C-7CD367553350.jpeg

 

If you don't mind, I would like some more pics of your gun cart!   WOW great looking and well thought out cart!

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2 minutes ago, Marshal Flint said:

 

If you don't mind, I would like some more pics of your gun cart!   WOW great looking and well thought out cart!

https://s1337.photobucket.com/user/HunterBasquins/media/image_zps4xqjc874.jpeg.html?sort=2&o=0

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534035937_BPboxJan2020.jpg.597f23450425699c5a221057788880ea.jpg

 

Here are the Pietta cap guns setting in the bottom of the box.  Looks like Goldilocks' Baby Bear's bed,  "Just right". 

 

I may not actually make a shallow box.  But instead make a lift out board with pegs or filler to keep guns in place.  Maybe two layers of thin boards with one cut out in profile of guns? 

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Posted (edited)

+1 to what Yul said and the "fabric" he uses. Fairly durable and way cool Western style points.

That said, I have used an open-cell foam ("cut out" to fit the gun silhouettes) covered with a micro-fiber velvet; forms to the guns and looks classy. Sorry, don't have any pics handy.

Edited by The Rainmaker, SASS #11631

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those fit real nice , i like your ideas on the profile cutout , it will keep them in place and still leave them readily retrievable - nothing to trap moisture and wont scratch the finish , 

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I was fat, dumb and happy, as they say. 

 

I found a piece of basswood exactly the right width after running it across the jointer to clean up edges.  Then plained down to 1/2" thick. Cut a 1-5/8" hole in the center to lift it out.  Knocked a square rung out of an old broken chair that was headed to the burn pile and made blocks for the board to rest.  Dropped the board in and placed the guns. Big smile of satisfaction.  Then...

 

1065270540_PistolboxtrayJan2020.thumb.jpg.64fb77783e97005759b21ba05c5de282.jpg

 

Stupid cleat blocks on the top. I hadn't noticed them.  Lid won't close.  I suspect they are just put on with nail gun brads. 

 

Good place to take a break and think. :huh:

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14 hours ago, Warden Callaway said:

I was fat, dumb and happy, as they say. 

 

I found a piece of basswood exactly the right width after running it across the jointer to clean up edges.  Then plained down to 1/2" thick. Cut a 1-5/8" hole in the center to lift it out.  Knocked a square rung out of an old broken chair that was headed to the burn pile and made blocks for the board to rest.  Dropped the board in and placed the guns. Big smile of satisfaction.  Then...

 

1065270540_PistolboxtrayJan2020.thumb.jpg.64fb77783e97005759b21ba05c5de282.jpg

 

Stupid cleat blocks on the top. I hadn't noticed them.  Lid won't close.  I suspect they are just put on with nail gun brads. 

 

Good place to take a break and think. :huh:

They look much thicker than they need to be.  Try removing them and planing them down half as thick.  See if lid will close. I would also pad them somehow, to protect the guns from rubs.  

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looks a nice solution and i agree on thinning the cletes , they are way too thick for that purpose it seems , 

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Yes, I'm thinking the cleats are not needed on this top as it's one-piece.   What's needed is a hold open doohickey so the lid doesn't break the hinges.  Maybe better hinges? 

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Well,  the cleats are definitely glued on. Maybe I can pull the steeples and saw the cleats off. 

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Posted (edited)
On 1/3/2020 at 10:10 PM, Warden Callaway said:

Yes, I'm thinking the cleats are not needed on this top as it's one-piece.   What's needed is a hold open doohickey so the lid doesn't break the hinges.  Maybe better hinges? 

One-piece wooden planks are prone to warping as you change humidity, if their edge grain is not perfectly perpendicular to the plane of the board.  They also will split along grain lines easily if flexed too far, for example by sitting down on the box.  So the support cleats may be needed, but they do look very thick.  

Edited by Dusty Devil Dale

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Have you considered cutting down the blocks the top board is sitting on or putting the pistols under the board and the accessories on top where you have the pistols in the pictures?

 

Angus

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OK, so here is an idea.  Cut/grind/sand...whatever...to completely remove those two cleats.  Replace them with brass.  You can either get nicely contoured fancy brass and mount them on the surface of the wood, or get simple rectangular brass bars and inset them into the underside of the lid.  You can either use flat head screws in countersunk holes in the brass for function, or use a fancier screw as part of the decor.  

 

Doesn't even need to be brass, depending on the other hardware you are going to use, stainless, or even wrought iron could look good.

 

Just a thought...

 

Hey, how about a large brass plate, just a few inches smaller then the lid... and then you can engrave your alias, or anything you want in it.

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This has been a low priority project but I poke at it a bit from time to time.

 

I'm real sure the wood is some kind of cedar so I don't expect it to warp or shrink or season split. 

 

I picked up a roll of kitchen shelf liner at the Dollar Tree.  It's a rubber netting. 

 

I looked at the local Westlake Hardware for stay open brackets but what they had was too big for what I need. So I'll keep looking. 

 

I'll probably take a miter saw and make cuts across the cleats near the steeple brads and chisel the bulk of the cleats off and pull the brads. Then work the rest down to near nothing.  Then run through the planer.  

 

If the top looks like it needs any support, maybe I'll look at putting something on the top side. 

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1722916220_BoxtopcleatsremovedJan2020.jpg.e869d04bd1ca3bbfa8f877ee5db326da.jpg

 

After removing cleats and staples.  One side put up a fight. The other had less glue and gave up easily.

 

1623921072_BoxtopafterplaneJan2020.jpg.a3022695817cb1291542683be65c2d86.jpg

 

After one light pass through the planer. 

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