The Rainmaker, SASS #11631

Lil Rob... ya bob n weave, bob n weave... I'm pretty sure I have seen some that blow so much smoke, no one can see the targets. Can't call a miss if ya can't "see" one... No one would do that.

How in the world would you regulate that? Do we shoot in actual "cone" where you can only move so much? Do we leave it up to spotters or the TO to determine? Good gosh we open a can o worms there... CBB, you get a SDQ on every stage. Hahahahaha We ALL do!

Zero IS cold, just not insane like the temps you folks get. Spent four years in Anchorage and it was cold there, but still not as cold as Fairbanks. Stay warm LM

I've never had the pins out, just cleaned up the hammer notches and cam. The pins are held in with a cross pin and wobble a bit. Seem to work fine. My issue with the Ubertis is the hardness of the metal. Even if they didn't do a great job on fit and finish, if the metal was harder, what you did (or had done) to clean them up would be more durable.

Don't know how hard that is compared to most "Cowboy" bullets but "hard cast" is not really needed for the steel ringin' we do. Hi-Tek coating is great though; many use it.

Polymer and moly coated are just fine. Scarlett sells a mean little red polymer bullet!

My Uberti '75s do have floating firing pins and they have the little T-bar safeties. Don't know what's in Cattlemen IIs

.358 in lead; has to do with bullet/rifling and pressure. .356 would "rattle" down the barrel (not really) and not be very accurate. .357 would probably be fine for jacketed; doesn't compress like lead. (for the non-cowboy shootin') These are for .38 Spl/.357Mag chambered firearms. Diameter of bullet coupled with substance of bullet depends on bore diameter of barrel and type of shooting. Talk to long range BPCR (black powder cartridge rifle) shooters; they know way more about bullet and bore diameters than we ever need to know.

Hey, I got one from Buck several years ago. No Buck... I didn't do it! It wasn't me! Hahahaha.

See the scores from Saturday? I'm comin' for ya...

Yeah, dial it back a notch, would ya?

I think the Dremel (and other rotary tools) get a bad rap. In "skilled" hands they can be great. Like DDD said, less is more. Do less rather than be sorry. Use a finer grit and go slow... you'll save yourself aggravation and probably $$.

Depends on what feeds best in your rifle. The pistols aren't picky but rifles sure can be. I use 125 gr TC coated for my daughter's .38s; feeds great in her Marlin.

Definitely a discussion topic! I can see both points of view. I see people every day that have no business being behind the wheel of a motor vehicle and yet... I, too, abhor the "punish/limit all for the transgressions or shortcomings of the few" mentality but in the age of endless litigations and diversity and inclusion, what do we do? It is hard to single out those who can't or shouldn't so in the interest of "fairness" we throw out a blanket and take the safe way out. Good post and I, personally would love to be able to move and shoot, but there are some, if allowed... I'd hide in the truck!

SWCs are fine for pistols, but will likely jam in a lever gun (yes, I know I'll get commentary on that) so why would you want to use two different loads (one for pistols and one for rifle)?

I see a Gamer as one who tries to see the best way to shoot a stage and still stay within rules AND shoot it the way it was intended to be shot, NOT "well, you never said I couldn't" If you are jumping the timer, hanging your long guns too far off the prop, stretching the starting positions (yes, Cowboy Port Arms) you are a cheater... STOP IT! I may joke that someone is a gamer, but to me being a gamer is not derogatory.

Absolutely DD, our club dropped of the list unexpectedly and we had to call them to be re-added. If you are unsure, please call.

Wouldn't that follow the "Safe conditions during a course of fire - rifles" on Pg 16. "A rifle is considered safe to leave a shooter's hands in the following conditions only: hammer fully down on an empty chamber..."?

What about the "Used to be not-so-bad but now I'm broken" category? Bet we'd fill that one right up!

I have a Forehand & Wadsworth (has F&W on the grip) in .38 S&W I reload for. Very light load of TB and it goes pop-pop. Similar to the S&W and Ivers. Love those Owl-head grips. If you look around a little, you can find .32s and .38s in these, mostly nickel plated guns. Have a competent 'smith check it out before ya shoot it though...

Oh yeah, Yul's carts are amazing! Wouldn't want to use it though... afraid I'd get dirt on it. Lol

+1 to what Yul said and the "fabric" he uses. Fairly durable and way cool Western style points. That said, I have used an open-cell foam ("cut out" to fit the gun silhouettes) covered with a micro-fiber velvet; forms to the guns and looks classy. Sorry, don't have any pics handy.

I've seen this done (when I first started shooting in GA back in 2005) by some who would pick shells from the belt with both hands. Jasmine Jessie (aka Jessie Harrison and our MD's daughter) could pull 6 shells from her belt and proceed to load and fire without ever having to go back to her belt. Amazing! Yeah, she went on to be a world class action shooter for Glock and Taurus.

The pistols are one thing to consider, but as far as I'm aware, there are no lever guns chambered for the .380 acp. Light loaded .38 spl is the way to go. We have had several kids start out with them. And the choices for pistol and rifle are plentiful.

Not a chemist, but seems to me adding any chemical to things that go boom could be iffy. Maybe we'll get some bp/chem expert on here that can shed more light. C'mon you soot lords, boom and flash ain't enough for ya? Lol