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Recovering components from defective rounds


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Several years ago, I was showing a new shooter how to reload on a Dillon SDB. He showed up with 1000 Starline cases, 1000 200gr 45 RNFP cast bullets and 1000 Remington LPP. I  furnished Clays powder and we spent the day turning out some great looking rounds. 
 

it was a great experience until the next day, when we took them to the range. About half the rounds would not detonate, no matter what weapon was used. The primers were obviously defective. Remington wanted to know the lot number from the box, but never offered any explanation and ignored further inquiries. 
 

Some of these were used for practice over the years, but I recently obtained the remaining 700 of them. What is the most effective way to pull the bullets and remove the remaining primers?

 

Edited by Mack Hacker, #60477
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45 cal slugs?  and small pistol primers?    Were you loading small primer 45 auto cases, or just misnamed the primer size?

 

Depends upon if you want to leave the bullets in "good" condition for reloading. 

 

For seven hundred and just saving the lead (not reusing the slugs), I'd use a pair of large pliers and a single stage press.   Place round in shell holder, raise it up, catch the slug in jaws of pliers, and lower ram, extracting bullet.   Faster than impact hammer.   Hint - large side cutter pliers grab the bullet very well, have plenty of leverage, and span the die opening in the frame of the press.

 

If you want to reuse the bullet (I would not), probably a collet bullet puller die that somewhat protects the bullet from damage.   But you would be out the price of the die, and if you don't do large volumes of this task, may not be worth it.   If hard cast slugs, will be successful.  If soft, well, good luck not damaging the slug.

 

This reinforces what I tell all BEGINNING reloaders - until you get good a this, don't EVER load more than 25 or so rounds until you have range test fired the stuff you are making.   Too many hidden mistakes can occur - leading to the exact painful situation as occurred here.

 

Remove primers in a press too. Just take it easy on the stroke and wear eye and ear protection.  I've never set off a primer after depriming thousands over the last 50 years.

 

good luck, GJ

Edited by Garrison Joe, SASS #60708
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16 minutes ago, Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 said:

45 cal slugs?  and small pistol primers?    Were you loading small primer 45 auto cases, or just misnamed the primer size?

 

Depends upon if you want to leave the bullets in "good" condition for reloading. 

 

For seven hundred and just saving the lead (not reusing the slugs), I'd use a pair of large pliers and a single stage press.   Place round in shell holder, raise it up, catch the slug in jaws of pliers, and lower ram, extracting bullet.   Faster than impact hammer.   Hint - large side cutter pliers grab the bullet very well, have plenty of leverage, and span the die opening in the frame of the press.

 

If you want to reuse the bullet (I would not), probably a collet bullet puller die that somewhat protects the bullet from damage.   But you would be out the price of the die, and if you don't do large volumes of this task, may not be worth it.   If hard cast slugs, will be successful.  If soft, well, good luck not damaging the slug.

 

This reinforces what I tell all BEGINNING reloaders - until you get good a this, don't EVER load more than 25 or so rounds until you have range test fired the stuff you are making.   Too many hidden mistakes can occur - leading to the exact painful situation as occurred here.

 

Remove primers in a press too. Just take it easy on the stroke and wear eye and ear protection.  I've never set off a primer after depriming thousands over the last 50 years.

 

good luck, GJ

Same thing I do but it means more coming from GJ. BE CAREFUL!!

Edited by Too Tall Bob
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Original post edited to eliminate my errors. These were 45 Colt. And loaded with LPP

 

 

i was afraid I would just get confirmation of what I picked up from Utube, but as stated previously, it carries a whole lot more weight coming from Garrison Joe

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I too remove primers in a press using a universal decapping die.  Besides eye and ear protection I remove any powder on or near the press.  

Edited by Edward R S Canby, SASS#59971
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+1 on the primers, I use a kinetic puller for the bullets, but I only do a few a year. Hundreds would be real pain in the arse that way!

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Before pulling, I'd also first check that the primers were seated all the way. Do they fire if you recock the hammer?

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You kinda have to weigh the cost in time and materials for which method to use. It might be cheaper to trash bullets, dump powder and load primed cases, but it takes time. If time is a factor plan a range day, try to fire every one, carry a bore rod and blast away. This method will work better in pistols. 

Also, make sure the SDB has the failsafe rod on the powder measure, the primers are fully seated or take the press along mounted to a board to reseat primers. I hate reworking ammo but it is too valuable to just trash it.

GJ always gives good advice.

 

Imis

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I would go to the range and turn them into practice rounds.  If they don't go off, you can pull them.  If they do go off, then you save the effort of pulling them and you get a little practice in.  It would be a lot easier to pull 75 duds than 700 live rounds.  I'd probably use them in my pistols and get keep a squib rod handy.

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I use a single-stage press, and put a pvc connector over the ram, tall enough that the bullet will go below the top when you lower the cartridge.

put the cartridge in the shell plate, grab the bullet with a wire stripper/crimper (see below), and lower the ram

 

the striper will really dig into the bullet and not slip off

 

I cast my own so it's not like I lose the bullet, I just recast the lead

 

63307_I.jpg

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16 hours ago, Eyesa Horg said:

Before pulling, I'd also first check that the primers were seated all the way. Do they fire if you recock the hammer?

They don’t fire in any gun under any circumstance 

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I'd see if a local pard already had a collet puller and would be willing to lend it.  If not, I'd consider buying one.  I've pulled down around 500 .30-06 rounds (milsurp) that was from WWII and suffered from improper storage.  Divided among the 3 of us that purchased the 3 GI cans of ammo from a garage sale, it wasn't too onerous... but we neither reused the bullets nor the powder, I used my kinetic puller.  Since then, I've pulled around 50 max... But, it was far quicker to use a collet puller.  Wished I had the collet puller for the 500!

 

I've never had a primer go off depriming using either a universal decapping die or regular decap/sizing die.

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17 hours ago, Badlands Bob #61228 said:

I would go to the range and turn them into practice rounds.  If they don't go off, you can pull them.  If they do go off, then you save the effort of pulling them and you get a little practice in.  It would be a lot easier to pull 75 duds than 700 live rounds.  I'd probably use them in my pistols and get keep a squib rod handy.

 

This.

 

The pard had a 5 lb. coffee can of .38s and if they had powder was "questionable".  After a match one day a few of us strapped on our hoglegs and practiced until they were gone..

 

 

 

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I just got done pulling about 1000 rounds ( about 7-8 years of bad rounds, (I use a Dillon primer tube filler so sometimes upside down). Just kept throwing them in a bin for years because the impact puller is such a pain.   I bought the rcbs buller puller die.   Fits into a loader ( I have an old single stage Lee) I was pulling 105 grn 38’s and it worked great!!!  
 

recovered brass and all powder and most of the old bullets ( put into practice ammo).  Would highly recommend.  5x to 10x faster than the impact hammer method.

 

https://www.rcbs.com/dies-and-shell-holders/bullet-pulling/standard-bullet-puller-without-collet/16-9440.html

 

then order correct caliber collet

 

Edited by Toranado, SASS # 58447
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my friends and i do this regularly , for shot shell and s=rifle/revolver rounds - we collect all the lead and reload it whether just reclaimed or melted and molded , we also have reclaimed primers , im not a  big fan of this as i think primers might be a bit more temperamental to be seated /removed/ reseated , the process just does not make me as comfortable as the first use does , 

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On 2/11/2024 at 12:13 PM, Toranado, SASS # 58447 said:

I just got done pulling about 1000 rounds ( about 7-8 years of bad rounds, (I use a Dillon primer tube filler so sometimes upside down). Just kept throwing them in a bin for years because the impact puller is such a pain.   I bought the rcbs buller puller die.   Fits into a loader ( I have an old single stage Lee) I was pulling 105 grn 38’s and it worked great!!!  
 

recovered brass and all powder and most of the old bullets ( put into practice ammo).  Would highly recommend.  5x to 10x faster than the impact hammer method.

 

https://www.rcbs.com/dies-and-shell-holders/bullet-pulling/standard-bullet-puller-without-collet/16-9440.html

 

then order correct caliber collet

 


How did you get the collet to grip a lead bullet?  I have tried several times and it just squishes the lead and slips off. Works great with jacketed though.

If I want to save the bullet, I use an impact hammer. If I’m not trying to save the bullet, I use a Hornady shell holder extension and a single stage press. Run the cartridge up until the bullet sticks it above the press frame (no die in press), grab bullet with side cutters and pull the handle. Pops em right out, but leaves marks on the bullet. Melt them down and give them a new life. 
 

Sam Sackett 

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4 minutes ago, Sam Sackett said:

How did you get the collet to grip a lead bullet?  I have tried several times and it just squishes the lead and slips off. Works great with jacketed though.

It had no problem with a truncated cone 105 gn 38.   Pulled it up, turned the bar to tighten, and then a quick jerk down.   I found the quick jerk down was key.   If u just slowly lowered it, it may not grab.   I day worked about 97% of the time on that bullet shape

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