John Barleycorn, SASS #76982 Posted July 3, 2021 Share Posted July 3, 2021 I’ve had hundreds of Rugers come through the shop and never felt a pair like this. Even after installation of spring kits the pull is vastly different than any New Vaquero or Vaquero that has come through the shop. They work fine, everything is stock. I called Ruger and they sent RMA to have them checked, but wanted to see if any Ruger experts could help me out first. Thanks, JB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frontier Lone Rider Posted July 3, 2021 Share Posted July 3, 2021 Burrs on hammer??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smokin Gator SASS #29736 Posted July 3, 2021 Share Posted July 3, 2021 With your experience with so many of them its amazing to get two like that at the same time. Are these straight from a distributor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abilene, SASS # 27489 Posted July 3, 2021 Share Posted July 3, 2021 Do the hammers move backwards as the triggers are pulled? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Barleycorn, SASS #76982 Posted July 3, 2021 Author Share Posted July 3, 2021 10 minutes ago, Smokin Gator SASS #29736 said: With your experience with so many of them its amazing to get two like that at the same time. Are these straight from a distributor? Used back up set 510 prefixes, bought from a very good shooter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Barleycorn, SASS #76982 Posted July 3, 2021 Author Share Posted July 3, 2021 6 minutes ago, Abilene, SASS # 27489 said: Do the hammers move backwards as the triggers are pulled? No Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sedalia Dave Posted July 3, 2021 Share Posted July 3, 2021 If you do send them to Ruger don't forget that they will remove all non-factory parts and return the pistols to the build they left the factory with. You may or may not get the parts back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Barleycorn, SASS #76982 Posted July 3, 2021 Author Share Posted July 3, 2021 16 minutes ago, Sedalia Dave said: If you do send them to Ruger don't forget that they will remove all non-factory parts and return the pistols to the build they left the factory with. You may or may not get the parts back. Yep, I’ll put the factory springs back in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckshot Bob Posted July 3, 2021 Share Posted July 3, 2021 Home grown trigger job ? Does the hammer cock quite a bit after the trigger engages the full cock notch in the hammer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Barleycorn, SASS #76982 Posted July 3, 2021 Author Share Posted July 3, 2021 6 minutes ago, Buckshot Bob said: Home grown trigger job ? Does the hammer cock quite a bit after the trigger engages the full cock notch in the hammer? No, all he did was put spring kits in. He put the original springs back in before sending them to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larsen E. Pettifogger, SASS #32933 Posted July 3, 2021 Share Posted July 3, 2021 510 is at least 15 years old. The odds are some not so good gunsmithing. If the triggers were that bad from the factory it would not take 15 years to find that out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sedalia Dave Posted July 3, 2021 Share Posted July 3, 2021 Try swapping the grip frames Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Original Lumpy Gritz Posted July 3, 2021 Share Posted July 3, 2021 What was the trigger pull weight? OLG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irish Pat Posted July 3, 2021 Share Posted July 3, 2021 I wonder too about the grip frames, that might be worth trying, ☘️ irish Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cayuse Jack, SASS #19407 Posted July 3, 2021 Share Posted July 3, 2021 510 series was the first version of NMV check the grip frame under the hand/pawl if it isn’t relieved then the hand/pawl could be dragging on the frame when the trigger is pulled Ruger didn’t figure this out until later. I have a set of 511 series that have the relief cut but my 510’s didn’t. The 50th anniversary blackhawks didn’t have the relief cut either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Barleycorn, SASS #76982 Posted July 3, 2021 Author Share Posted July 3, 2021 2 hours ago, Cayuse Jack, SASS #19407 said: 510 series was the first version of NMV check the grip frame under the hand/pawl if it isn’t relieved then the hand/pawl could be dragging on the frame when the trigger is pulled Ruger didn’t figure this out until later. I have a set of 511 series that have the relief cut but my 510’s didn’t. The 50th anniversary blackhawks didn’t have the relief cut either. Can you post a pic of this relief cut Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sedalia Dave Posted July 3, 2021 Share Posted July 3, 2021 12 minutes ago, John Barleycorn, SASS #76982 said: Can you post a pic of this relief cut See this thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dutch Nichols, SASS #6461 Posted July 3, 2021 Share Posted July 3, 2021 42 minutes ago, Sedalia Dave said: See this thread If one remembers the 510 series were all recalled for timing and trigger issues. Bunch of folks complained about Ruger releasing them before they were a proven design. Yet some folks say they are the best, so who knows?! EDITED IN : some pard messaged me asking me to clarify, so...... When the 510 series premiered, Ruger sent letters to owners and ffl's asking to have guns on the shelf or those already sold to be returned. This was only on 45's as 357's had yet to be released. I don't think anyone got a straight answer as to what the issue or issues were and what the fixes entailed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turkey Flats Jack Posted July 3, 2021 Share Posted July 3, 2021 3 minutes ago, Dutch Nichols, SASS #6461 said: If one remembers the 510 series were all recalled for timing and trigger issues. Bunch of folks complained about Ruger releasing them before they were a proven design. Yet some folks say they are the best, so who knows?! They ones in my post are 513 series. Only pair of nmv I have. Never an issue with my omv's though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Barleycorn, SASS #76982 Posted July 3, 2021 Author Share Posted July 3, 2021 Here is a pic of the relief cut. There is a shinny long dimple on the rear edge of the cut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Devil Dale Posted July 3, 2021 Share Posted July 3, 2021 3 hours ago, Cayuse Jack, SASS #19407 said: 510 series was the first version of NMV check the grip frame under the hand/pawl if it isn’t relieved then the hand/pawl could be dragging on the frame when the trigger is pulled Ruger didn’t figure this out until later. I have a set of 511 series that have the relief cut but my 510’s didn’t. The 50th anniversary blackhawks didn’t have the relief cut either. I'm confused, as usual. I can understand how a dragging pawl/hand would affect hammer draw or cylinder latching at the bolt, but I can't envision it affecting the sear or trigger pull. What am I misunderstanding? (I can certainly see how a drag on the transfer bar could affect trigger pull weight, however. But I'm unfamiliar with the series here and don't even know if they have a transfer bar) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Barleycorn, SASS #76982 Posted July 3, 2021 Author Share Posted July 3, 2021 20 minutes ago, John Barleycorn, SASS #76982 said: Here is a pic of the relief cut. There is a shinny long dimple on the rear edge of the cut. So do I make this cut a little deeper with heaven forbid a dremmel with round diamond ball bit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dutch Nichols, SASS #6461 Posted July 3, 2021 Share Posted July 3, 2021 OH NO.....NOT THE DREADED DREMEL TOOL !!!!!!!!!!!!! seriously I'm sure JB knows what he's doing, I just couldn't resist! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sedalia Dave Posted July 3, 2021 Share Posted July 3, 2021 9 minutes ago, John Barleycorn, SASS #76982 said: So do I make this cut a little deeper with heaven forbid a dremmel with round diamond ball bit? I would color the area with a sharpie; reassemble and cycle a couple times, Then disassemble and see it it is hitting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Barleycorn, SASS #76982 Posted July 3, 2021 Author Share Posted July 3, 2021 2 minutes ago, Sedalia Dave said: I would color the area with a sharpie; reassemble and cycle a couple times, Then disassemble and see it it is hitting. It’s definitely hitting something has rubbed it shinny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Original Lumpy Gritz Posted July 3, 2021 Share Posted July 3, 2021 44 minutes ago, John Barleycorn, SASS #76982 said: Here is a pic of the relief cut. There is a shinny long dimple on the rear edge of the cut. I had to deepen that cut a little bit when I installed SBH hammers in my wife's NMV's. OLG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cayuse Jack, SASS #19407 Posted July 3, 2021 Share Posted July 3, 2021 37 minutes ago, John Barleycorn, SASS #76982 said: So do I make this cut a little deeper with heaven forbid a dremmel with round diamond ball bit? Deeper or wider depending on where it’s rubbing. Another thought, is there any transfer bar pinch? Doesn’t make the trigger pull harder but pinch can make the trigger let off seem grittier and even make the trigger seem to jump when released. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cypress Sam, SASS #10915 Posted July 3, 2021 Share Posted July 3, 2021 Before you grind, take the pawl out and see if that affects the trigger pull. If the pull lightens, the tail of the pawl is possibly binding causing extra force on the trigger in order to overcome the bind. If that’s the case, you could also just grind a little off of the tit on the pawl that hits the frame. Not too much tho or you won’t have a free spin cylinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Barleycorn, SASS #76982 Posted July 4, 2021 Author Share Posted July 4, 2021 Well I cleaned up the relief cut real carefully and put back together, no help. I’m going to try a different hammer next then if that changes nothing a new trigger I got from Brownells. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Original Lumpy Gritz Posted July 4, 2021 Share Posted July 4, 2021 2 hours ago, John Barleycorn, SASS #76982 said: Well I cleaned up the relief cut real carefully and put back together, no help. I’m going to try a different hammer next then if that changes nothing a new trigger I got from Brownells. Leave the pawl out. See if that changes the trigger pull. OLG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chinaman,SASS32908 Posted July 4, 2021 Share Posted July 4, 2021 5 hours ago, Cypress Sam, SASS #10915 said: Before you grind, take the pawl out and see if that affects the trigger pull. If the pull lightens, the tail of the pawl is possibly binding causing extra force on the trigger in order to overcome the bind. If that’s the case, you could also just grind a little off of the tit on the pawl that hits the frame. Not too much tho or you won’t have a free spin cylinder. This worked for me Having similar problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny Meadows,SASS#28485L Posted July 4, 2021 Share Posted July 4, 2021 13 hours ago, Cypress Sam, SASS #10915 said: Before you grind, take the pawl out and see if that affects the trigger pull. If the pull lightens, the tail of the pawl is possibly binding causing extra force on the trigger in order to overcome the bind. If that’s the case, you could also just grind a little off of the tit on the pawl that hits the frame. Not too much tho or you won’t have a free spin cylinder. This is what I do frequently on Rugers. J.M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Barleycorn, SASS #76982 Posted July 4, 2021 Author Share Posted July 4, 2021 3 hours ago, Johnny Meadows,SASS#28485L said: This is what I do frequently on Rugers. J.M. Just a few passes with a file? How much are we talking about? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Barleycorn, SASS #76982 Posted July 6, 2021 Author Share Posted July 6, 2021 On 7/3/2021 at 7:38 PM, Cayuse Jack, SASS #19407 said: Deeper or wider depending on where it’s rubbing. Another thought, is there any transfer bar pinch? Doesn’t make the trigger pull harder but pinch can make the trigger let off seem grittier and even make the trigger seem to jump when released. The transfer bar is pinching. How is this fixed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Devil Dale Posted July 6, 2021 Share Posted July 6, 2021 1 hour ago, John Barleycorn, SASS #76982 said: The transfer bar is pinching. How is this fixed? A little CAREFUL hand-filing of the sides and corners of the bar, and the surfaces of its travel channel will probably do it. I had to do that with both of mine. Both sides of the channels had high roughness from machining. To smooth the channels, I took my time with a needle file wrapped in 220 grit abrasive paper. After you do that, you will want to disassemble and thoroughly flush the parts, to remove loose abrasive. BUT BEFORE MODIFYING ANYTHING, I recommend removing the transfer bar temporarily and trying the trigger, to be sure that is the root of the trigger pull issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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