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Cypress Sam, SASS #10915

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Everything posted by Cypress Sam, SASS #10915

  1. In the 50 or so years I’ve been reloading, I never found the need to anneal pistol brass. But I read an article in one of the gun magazines that gave a simple way to do it. Stand your brass up in a flat pan with about 1/2” or so water, heat the case mouth to red and with the end of the torch knock them over into the water. the water is to keep the base from losing its strength.
  2. I put one in my 12 ga. single barrel that I use sometimes. It seems to help but not much.
  3. For pin replacement, I use a cutoff end of a 1/16” drill bit. Run the drill bit through the bolt and extractor, then cut off a piece of the shank long enough to hold the extractor in place. You may have to peen the hole a little to get the pin to stay in place, but usually the extractor is “springy” enough that it will be OK without that.
  4. There is a fairly easy fix if you’re fairly mechanically inclined. Here’s how: 1. Remove the bent extractor using a pin punch and small hammer. 2. Reshape the extractor by laying it flat on a lead block and tapping it back to shape with the round face of a ball peen hammer. 3. Check your rebend job by reinstalling and function check. 4. If it works OK take it back out and retemper it. 5 To retemper, polish the part to bright metal. Then on a glass-top electric stove with the burner set on high, heat the polished part until it turns bright blue (almost like a gun blue). Then quickly drop the hot part into a small container of Automatic Transmission Fluid. (This should restore the spring temper to the part.) 6. Reinstall the part and check the function. If it works, Great, if it doesn’t you’re no worse off. I’ve had good results repairing several of my rifles this way.
  5. Cowboy and Indians Store sells a good extractor. if the old one is not broken, you can rejuvenate it by taking it out and restoring the bend in the extractor. Don’t try to just put it in a vice and bend it with pliers or it will break. With it removed from the bolt, lay it flat on a lead block or ingot and tap the bend back using the rounded end of a ball-peen hammer. Or you could just spend the $50 and buy a new one from C&I Store.
  6. I have an old Hornady Apex that is a great machine. I also had a Hornady 336 that was good too, but I preferred the Apex.
  7. Cowboy and Indians Store sells a good extractor. if the old one is not broken, you can rejuvenate it by taking it out and restoring the bend in the extractor. Don’t try to just put it in a vice and bend it with pliers or it will break. With it removed from the bolt, lay it flat on a lead block or ingot and tap the bend back using the rounded end of a ball-peen hammer. The lead block will allow the steel extractor to bend evenly without breaking.
  8. This seems like a pretty straight forward stage to me. No matter what category I was shooting, I would fire 10 rounds, reholster one gun (if shooting gunfighter), then eject one empty, load two rounds in the second gun, index the cylinder and fire the two reloaded rounds with the same hand. I think any other way would be slower.
  9. If you have ruled out a box of bad primers (almost nonexistent with new primers) and since it exists in multiple guns, it’s almost certain that the primers haven’t been seated all the way. If a primer isn’t seated all the way to the bottom of the primer pocket, the first hammer strike fully seats it, the second fires it. Try seating a batch of primers with a hand primer, where you can feel the primer seat fully to the bottom. If they fire then, you’ve found the problem. I solved this problem on my 550 by putting a shim under the primer seating ram.
  10. I use 5.2 gr Red Dot to avoid the gunk from the unturned powder. A little heavier than most, but if I want “light”, I use a smaller caliber.
  11. Some of the Uberti rifles were shipped and did not have the bluing salts completely cleaned from the magazine tubes. (Maybe other places as well). If your goal is to prevent rust in the mag tube, of course a stainless mag tube will do that. Another way to prevent rust in the mag tube is to clean the salts from the tube. Bluing salts cannot be easily removed with any type of petroleum cleaning products that I know of. The reason is they are not soluble in petroleum products. Salts are soluble in water however. The hotter, the better. Clean it up just like you would clean up after shooting black powder. I use hot water and Simple Green to both degrease and dissolve the salts in one good washing. Clean it again with the same cleaner, dry it well and protect it with your favorite rust preventive (I use REM Oil). The important thing is to remove the salts.
  12. There is NO competitive advantage. But 32 S&W and Long is not a heel based bullet where 32 Colt is. So the 32 S&W is much easier to reload, also components are more readily available.
  13. Shotshells, unlike pistol brass, is NOT really interchangeable between brands. Whatever brand of shotshell you use, use that exclusively and avoid problems. There are different lengths, different internal dimensions, different brass dimensions, etc. You can adjust for any of them, but done interchange without checking the adjustments on your loader. (And use the recommended wad.)
  14. The salts formed by black powder are soluble in water. They are not soluble in petroleum products. Hot water with a squirt of dish soap and a little scrubbing works well and is cheap. Clean it up afterwards with plane hot (even boiling) water and apply your favorite rust preventive as soon as it’s dry. I don’t know if M Pro 7 is water based or not. If it’s not, it probably won’t work well.
  15. Here is a picture of my Marlin Model 1892 with the side plate removed to show the action. The action is the same type as used in the Marlin M-39 22’s. I rechambered it to .32 S&W Long and it shoots and works well. As already stated, it’s not a strong action and I only shoot reduced loads. (115 grain bullet at about 600 fps.)
  16. In a pinch if you don’t have a proper magazine tube wrench you can improvise with vice grips and a hacksaw blade. Grip the hacksaw blade with the vice grips leaving just enough of the flat side sticking our to engage the slot in the end-cap. Using a screwdriver for leverage you should be able to remove the end cap. You’ll need to make some extra effort to secure the mag tube from turning though. That little pin that holds the tube won’t stand much force.
  17. I've heard this term used for many years, but never heard a precise definition as to what it is. Some pards say that on a '73, they pull the trigger and can open the action before the hammer falls - outrunning the gun? I don't think so. I think their trigger timing is such that they pull late in the cycle, or they have a faulty gun and the hammer follows the bolt without pulling the trigger at all. Both Marlin 94's and Win/Rossi 92's have internal safety's that prevent the firing pin from hitting the primer if the trigger is pulled too soon or to late. Even with lightened springs the hammer fall is very quick. Quicker than reversing directions and opening the lever far enough to prevent discharge. Springs can be lightened to the point that gun function is impared and fast operation "outruns" the spring, but is that "outrunning the gun?"
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