Cypress Sam, SASS #10915

The rifle and pistols being shot in the video are Umarex BB or pellet guns powered by a CO2 cylinder in the butt (two COcylinders in the rifle). The pistols are licensed by Colt and are pretty much an accurate replica. The rifle is listed as a copy of the Winchester 94 and uses the same cartridges as the pistol. The cartridges hold one BB or pellet where the primer would go in a live round. Both pistols and rifle function just like a real gun. They are available from Cabelas and other retailers for about $130 each for he pistols and about $220 for the rifle. I have a pair of t

According to the link you provided, it looks like you ordered a hammer for a Bisley Vaquero. The hammers for a Bisley Blackhawk are not a drop-in part for a standard New Blackhawk. I can’t read German though, and it may explain that somewhere.

Before you grind, take the pawl out and see if that affects the trigger pull. If the pull lightens, the tail of the pawl is possibly binding causing extra force on the trigger in order to overcome the bind. If that’s the case, you could also just grind a little off of the tit on the pawl that hits the frame. Not too much tho or you won’t have a free spin cylinder.

I haven’t received a pm. I’ll be glad to answer it if I do.

NKJ. I’m glad you caught that and posted. I was only thinking of bent levers contributing to oobd’s. But those out of battery discharges can certainly affect headspace.

A bent lever can prevent the toggle links from moving all the way up past top dead center, which is necessary for the gun to be fully in battery. Depending on how much the lever was bent and where the bend was, it’s possible that closing the (bent) lever fully depressed the lever safety while not raising the links past top dead center, thus leaving the gun in a partial or or full out-of-battery condition all of the time. As an point of reference, even one out of battery discharge can bend the lever.

From all the discussion, it sounds to me like the links (short stroke or not) are fine and the carrier is fine. The problem is that the lifter spring is not properly working on the lifter cam to push the lifter arm down, most likely due to wear or improper fit. To repair this, look at the bearing surfaces of the spring and the cam to see which one or both are worn. With the side plates off and the carrier block removed, work the action and observe the way the spring works to hold the lifter arm both up and down. It should be positive in both directions. If there is significant

Shadow Bay Johnny passed away last week in Orlando. His wife Dianna said that he had been cremated and they held a small private family ceremony in accordance with his wishes.

I would go with an 1893 Marlin in 32-40 (because I have one.). It’s smoother than the Win M94 in 30-30 or the Win M95 in 30-40 Krag.

OLG and Pat Riot have it right. Take the right cartridge guide out, making sure not to lose any shim already there, and put in a shim. I use a good grade of bond typing paper for making that type of shim. It’s about .005” thick so one or two shims ought to do it. Steel or brass shims work too but are much harder to cut out. Back 20 or so years ago when 92’s were the go-to gun for SASS stovepiping was a common problem and this was the fix.

I’m glad you got the firing pin! We can always trust the US Postal Service. Right?

Warden, I don’t have a bp load recommendation, but I’d suggest not exceeding the original pressures for the 32 Colt cartridge. As I’m sure you know (I’ve attached a photo of my 92 Marlin action with the lifter removed showing how weak the lockup is) only the lever bearing on the bolt holds the action closed. The load I was using was 115 grain bullet sized .312” with 1.8 gr Bullseye. Not BP. The starting load in my 45th edition Lyman Reloading Handbook was 1.3 gr Bullseye with a 115 gr cast bullet. 1.8 gr Bullseye was the max load. I’d recommend staying with the starting load

The gun will work like a 66 with the lever safety removed. A lighter spring will make for more positive hammer fall. By that I mean that a less firm grip holding the lever closed is needed to disengage the lever safety. I find that when trying to shoot fast, the lever safety prevents early trigger pulls. An early trigger pull usually won’t result in an out of battery discharge because the cartridge and primer are not yet in contact with the bolt face and the firing pin won’t reach the primer. The hammer will follow the bolt forward though and NOT ignite the primer, causing even

I think I still have a firing pin for an 1891 Marlin if you need one. I ordered it thinking they could be easily modified to fit an 1892 - wrong. Anyway if you need it, you can have it. Let me know. Also if you still want an 1892, I have an extra one I’d part with.