Cypress Sam, SASS #10915

Thanks. I made it out of the forend from a Rossi 92 carbine that someone had restocked. I pulled it out of the burn pile at a gun shop.

Sorry about the delay answering your question. I used the same spacer stick as you would in one without the forend. You could make a follower with an extended nose to do the same thing.

Transitional Henry.

Fireball is fast but not enough to have 4 empties in the air with a reload?

I’ve never thought of my guns as a “group” or “collection” either. Mine are more an “accumulation”.

Take the stock off and try the screw from the “wrong” side (the bottom). That should clean up any minor damage to the threads on the “right” side. Then try the screw with the stock off. Then when you put the stock back on, tap it firmly to make sure it’s fully seated. If that fails, run an appropriately sized drill through the hole to clean it up.

My “accumulation” of 32-20’s, all of which I have used in matches along with other calibers over the past 25 or so years of CAS. The bottom pair of pistols (Revolvers but pistols is easier to type) are 3rd gen Colts from the Custom Shop in 32-20, nickel plated, consecutively numbered with real ivory’s from Colt. The other ‘73’s are Uberti, AWA and Armi San Macro. The Ruger is a Buckeye Special (32-20 & 32 Mag Convertable); and the derringer is custom from American Derringer in 32-20. The rifles, all 32-20 of course, from the bottom: Winchester ‘92 short rifle with a Winches

The Stoeger single trigger shotguns have a mechanical swittch-over that resets to the second barrel when you relax your finger after firing the first barrel. As the gun recoils, if it is not held firmly against the shoulder, the gun moves back faster than the hand (and trigger finger). By the time the trigger finger “catches up” with the trigger, the trigger has already reset and is pulled a second time. It all happens so quickly that the two shots seem to overlap or oven sound like one extra loud shot. Also smaller framed people have more problems with doubling than larger peop

Just wondering why large-pistol primed cases won’t t work while the small pistol primed cases work? I thought that the external dimensions were the Sam for both cases. BTW whomever came up with small pistol primed 45 acp brass should be lined up and shot down. (Figuratively speaking of course.)

I use walnut shell media but this would work with corncob media too. Squirt a shot of auto polish (not wax) into the media bowl and add about a tablespoon of mineral spirits or paint thinner. Then run your vibratory tumbler for a few minutes to thoroughly mix. I usually let the tumbler run overnight, but about an hour probably would work. Any brand of auto polish works as long as it doesn’t have wax in it. The mineral spirits not only cuts the grease on the brass but, more importantly keeps the dust down. My brass comes out looking like new.

If you decide to get a sizer-lubricator, look at the Star. They are an order of magnitude faster and easier than the Lyman or similar machines.

I have two 550’s and a 650. The 650 is for 38’s, with the 550’s (one for small primers, one for large) for everything else. I’ve not used a 750 but the primer feed improvement cures my main complaint with the 650. I have loaded over 700 rounds in an hour on the 550 (not counting filling primer tubes). Even though the 650 loads at a higher rate of speed, malfunctions take longer to correct and I’ve never reached an actual 500 rounds in an hour even with the case feeder. There always seems to be a pesky 9 mm case that gums up the works. I think you made the r

The answer is probably. (Presuming it’s a toggle link rifle.) Take the bolt and firing pin extension our of the rifle and reassemble it out of the gun. With everything in place, the tip of the firing pin should be flush with the bolt face. When you push the firing pin forward, it should protrude about .050” or more than the thickness of a dime and less than the thickness of a penny. If the tip of the firing pin is recessed into the bolt face, extra energy is needed to overcome friction to get the FP to the primer for ignition. If the tip of the FP protrudes from the

Thanks everyone for your input. I learned a lot about percussion caps and nipples. Turns out what I was “assuming” was completely wrong. I may even break out the 1860 Armies and give them another chance!

What is a “white paper”? Assuming it’s a write up on what the differences are, how can I access it?