Cypress Sam, SASS #10915

I took out the lock, knocked out the pins holding the two sides together, removed all of the lock mechanism and put the sides back together, locktighting the pins back in place. I also drilled and tapped the lock body from the bottom and use the screw as a hammer stop. In the pictures it is a little hard to see the end of the set screw coming up from the bottom. The lock body is very hard, so you might have to use a carbide drill if you do this.

I like the Ivory better. Not to be contrary but to me it’s smooth but not “slick”. The imitation ivory that I’ve felt was slick though. Pearl grips seem to be more slick but not as much as the plastic. Natural materials just feel better than the imitations. Both sets of grips look good with the gold though!

The Ides has become one of the best matches around. Smart* is doing a great job in continuing the tradition.

It’s interesting to try to get some of these “orphans” working again. Especially when you’re trying to make a part and you don’t even know what it looks like. If I can help, let me know.

Deuce, even though the gun looks like a Colt, the innerds function and look a lot like a Remington. Mine had a hammer and a jury-rigged bolt. A Colt type bolt wouldn’t work because the cam on the hammer was in the wrong place. The leg of the bolt would have had to be bent upwards to work and I couldn’t figure out how to do that without doing some TIG welding, (which I’m not very good at.) Since Mine had a hammer, I didn’t try a Colt hammer. If you can get the Colt hammer to fit, the legs of the Colt bolt would probably be fitable to the cam. After breaking the functioning leg of the bolt, I got mine to work by ending the opposite leg over to engage the cam. Not a proper fix, but it works and I’ve shot it. I also had to shim up in front of the cylinder to get the headspace within tolerance and cut a forcing cone into the barrel to stop lead shaving. To get it right though, I’d have to set the barrel back a turn. Maybe some day. Keep is posted on your progress. I posted a couple pictures of my gun.

Purdy Boy was still Second-in-Category even with the 95 second stage!

This is a Smith and Wesson in .38 S&W. It won the Pocket Pistol side match at the Lake County Pistoleros annual match, The Ides of March, this weekend. When picking a PP, make sure to get one with a large enough grip to pick up and handle quickly. Many of the 32’s are too small to give you a good grip. At least for me.

Phantom - I didn’t mean to infer that I wasn’t trying to win. Just that at 81, there’s not a whole lot of chance that I’ll beat y’all Borgs that I couldn’t beat even if I was 20. It’s fun to try though, and if I ever do, I’ll brag and gloat big time! Today is side match day at the Ides of March match with the Lake County Pistoleros up in Eustis Florida. So watch out I’ll be tying for a sweep of the side matches!

The fun in side matches for me is in the shooting, not in winning some trophy that I’ll bring home and keep in a box in the garage until it’s old enough to throw away. So for me it’s unlimited. Why bother to bring derringers, pocket pistols, pistol caliber rifles, long range single shot rifles, rifle caliber lever action rifles, and assorted shotguns, not to mention main match guns and .22’s all to matches just to run them one time in a side match? For a lot of these guns it’s the only time I get to shoot them in public. As far as me winning because I kept reshooting? The planet would run out of lead first.

It worked well with Western 3-Gun and it works well with Action Steel (a sport shot on steel like CAS but with modern guns). Repainting with spray cans (bullet marks only) with a couple of people takes little more time than resetting shotgun targets, and not as much time as scoring and pasting like in IDPA or UPSA. Painting is not foolproof though. There are multiple hits in the same “ding”, edgers and light loads that don’t leave a good mark. It might be worth trying out on a local level and see what problems (or not) come up.

I’ve always liked Derringers. Here’s 3 American Derringer models in .22 RF, 32-20 and .38 spa along with an original Remington in .41 RF.

In Orlando, home of the Weewahootee Vigilance Committee, in addition to our monthly match on the first Saturday there are the following within an hour and a half more or less. Lake County Pistoleros in Eustis Malabar Gun Club in Palm Bay forgot the club name Doodle Hill Regulators in Ruskin Hatbil Gang in Titusville Myakka Misfits Myakka near Bradenton A little further out (maybe two hours) there are clubs in Hernando County, Gainesville, St Petersburg and Okechobee. And we have a “Cowboy Clinic” every Tuesday in Orlando. So plenty of shooting around here.

What Goody said.

Didn’t work - Now does. ??? Would be nice to know problem and solution as Lead Friend said.

On my brass frame 36 Navies the face of the hammer has been adjusted so that it doesn’t contact the nipples when dry fired. The hammer does contact the cap when it falls and fires reliably. I have no way of measuring how much clearance there is but it looks like only a couple of thousandths or so. The curved face of the hammer bottoms out on the frame below the hammer face. They have been dry fired probably a hundred thousand times with no ill effects on the nipples. This does not apply to springs, screws and pawls. But they still shoot just fine with the original nipples.