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Major Crimes

1866 Yellow Boy problem

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I have a Uberti 1866 Yellow Boy and I am having a problem.

 

When I load it up with 10 rds (its the 20" version) after one or two rds fired the 2nd or 3rd round goes all the way back into the action and jams the lever shut.

 

I have tried different length rds and it happens with all of them.

 

Anyone had this problem or any ideas?

 

 

 

 

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Just a guess, Maybe the tab on the loading gate is damaged. GW

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the tab on the loading gate is bent back. Common problem with 66s. VTI sells a hardened replacement. some use JB weld to reinforce it

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Loading gate tab " If you buy a replacement reinforce it with JB weld mine has lasted over 10 years .

Woodfox

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Question, do you reinforce the new gate tab(fromVTI) or the old original tab? I have yet to have this problem. Just asking so I know what to do when this come s up.

 

Should have read slower, Woodfox, answered my question.

Edited by Shawnee McGrutt

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You should not have to reinforce the gate from VTI. NOW having said that I had a similar issue

that was not cause of a broken tab. I will check with my main gunsmith and see what the deal was

My rounds would end up in the action with the links.

Get back later.

Yellowboy.

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I have had problems with a small caliber 66 with the cases actually going around the tab. Needed constant tweaking to keep the tab in the right place up and down in the loading gate. One of the 66 weak points.

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It does not matter who makes or sells them the bent tab design needs to be reinforced. Top OLD solid tab style 66 gate. Middle broken bent tab. Bottom reinforced bent tab.

 

P1000301_zps10ckdcjo.jpg

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What Larsen said!

 

When you look at the original design, it becomes obvious they should never have went to a weak little bent tab to be the cartridge stop.

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But ... But ... But ...When the "new" Ladle was introduced, it was an "Improvement" over the "old" Ladle. They (Uberti) went from a Ladle that NEVER broke (See Pettifogger's Picture) to the improved Ladle, guaranteed to break. Remember ..... Improvement.

 

Plus One to Pettifogger. In all fairness, Mt Zion, you should not "have" to reinforce the after-market ladle offered by VTI. However, if it's a bent tab, you really NEED to reinforce it. It's gonna break. Not as quick as OEM, but gonna break none the less. If anyone has a "bent tab" Ladle, it need to be reinforced.

 

Coffinmaker

Edited by Colorado Coffinmaker

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So, if I am reading correctly, one should fix this before the gremlins do their thing?

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Better safe than sorry. So Yes.

 

Why risk it since it is a well known problem.

 

While the part is out, either try the JB weld fix or talk with a pard that can braze or silver solder or ?

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You should not have to reinforce the gate from VTI. NOW having said that I had a similar issue

that was not cause of a broken tab. I will check with my main gunsmith and see what the deal was

My rounds would end up in the action with the links.

Get back later.

Yellowboy.

Yellowboy,

 

That's whats happening to mine.

 

From these posts it looks like its the loading gate TAB.

 

Thanks for the help all.

 

Its a pity such a good looking rifle has such a simple to fix problem.

 

I will take it back to the store, its less than 3 mths old, and see what they will do. If worse comes to worse its off to the local gunsmith.

Edited by Major Crimes

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To cause a malfunction the loading gate tab does not even have to break off. If they bend rearwards just a bit the .38 rounds will jump the tab and wind up in the action.

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You should note there are/were two types of loading spoons sold by VTI for Uberti actions.

The early Ubertis require a different loading spoon. ( Ask me how I found out. At a match!)

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I have two 66s, one 24 inch 45LC & a 20 inch 38Spl, and this has happened to both of them. By the way, VTI does not always have the stronger loading gate in stock. I have purchased five just to have them ready. Two of the supposedly heavier type, which by the way, are two to three times the cost of a standard replacement. The loading gate has to match the screw size which is reflected by the serial number.

 

I also purchased the recommended JB Weld.

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Thanks again all.

 

As I only had it for about 3 mths before it happened it has gone back to Beretta (they are the Uberti importer here) for a Warranty job.

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Thanks again all.

 

As I only had it for about 3 mths before it happened it has gone back to Beretta (they are the Uberti importer here) for a Warranty job.

They will replace it with the same crappy part. When you get it back take out the laddle and reinforce it.

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Good point L.E.P. I don't want to be taking it back every 3 mths!

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To cause a malfunction the loading gate tab does not even have to break off. If they bend rearwards just a bit the .38 rounds will jump the tab and wind up in the action.

AS will, in spades, the 32-20.

When I get a new one I dip it in acetone, apply a small amount(just a lumpump) of JB Weld behind the tab, streamline it a bit, let dry and install. My 44-40 has been running several years with a reinforced tab.

Edited by Noz

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You wouldn't believe it?

 

I was at the range today and there were 5 people all around a new (first time its been on the range) Uberti 1866.

 

They couldn't work out why the lever was jammed and it wouldn't cycle.

 

I waltzed over and all very calmly and knowledgeable like said "there will be a round back in the linkages"

 

Everyone stopped, looked at me like I was from Mars, then kept uumming and ahhing.

 

Then one of the guys counted the rounds on the table and said "hay there's a round missing"?

 

Sure enough when they shook the rifle you could hear the round back in the action.

 

I wasn't smug about that at all :lol:

 

Mine is still with Beretta (they import the Uberti's in Aust). I think I may take it straight to my gunsmith and get the reinforcing done before it goes wrong again. :(

 

Also it looks like I have to order JB Weld as it doesnt seem to be stocked in stores. Which one should I get?

 

http://jbweldit.com.au/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1

Edited by Major Crimes

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Why take it to a gunsmith? This is a job you should be able to do yourself.

 

Cowboys back in the day would fix their guns out on the range. It's a pretty simple gun to fix unless you start or have it short stroked.

 

I'll help you understand how the gun works.

 

As for the different spoons, I found out at least for my 45 Colt that even though my model calls for the spoon with the large spoon I order the one with the small screw. The screw goes through the hole just fine and screws to the spoon.

 

This way all my spoons will fit all my '66s and don't have to fiddle around to find the right one. I had a couple fall even with the JB.

 

Don't think I was using enough JB + my black powder loads are as about as stout as you can get them.

Edited by Prescott Palmer

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...Also it looks like I have to order JB Weld as it doesnt seem to be stocked in stores. Which one should I get?

 

http://jbweldit.com.au/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1

I just got the standard stuff (the first one on the page you linked). In my experience the standard cure adhesives (of almost any flavor) cure stronger than their accelerated cure cousins.

 

When I did my new loading gate (I bought a replacement one and JB'd it even before I picked up the new rifle) it took about 3 hours of first applying, then shaping it back up (to deal with gravity sag), letting it sit, and repeating. After about 3 hours at room temperature I was able to make final shaping adjustments which did not sag away.

 

So not something to do right before you are going to bed, to let cure overnight. Unless you want to have to build it up again the next morning, doing the process all over again.

 

Working with the material while still pliable allowed me to finalize the shape just as it was beginning to set up, and no filing or sanding was necessary after full cure.

 

There are some good photos on line of the result you want, and it ends up being a very straight-forward mod.

Edited by TMH

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Thanks Gents, I will give it a go when it comes back.

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Just a thought. If your going to use JB Weld (Originally my Idea) for your reinforcement of the tab, try making a "dam" on either side of the tab with masking tape. Your fillet will hold it's shape overnight much better.

Edited by Colorado Coffinmaker

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I just got an Uberti 1866 Yellowboy today for Christmas and have been reading about that problem (mine is a .38spl).

 

I have the 20" barrel....how can I identify which loading gate (screw size) to get?

 

http://www.vtigunparts.com/store/shopdisplaycategories.asp?id=106&cat=Rifles

 

I'll probably just find a local gunsmith to help me out.....

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Don't be surprised if the local gunsmith knows nothing about lever action rifles, especially pistol caliber antique copies('66 and 73).

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I just got an Uberti 1866 Yellowboy today for Christmas and have been reading about that problem (mine is a .38spl).

 

I have the 20" barrel....how can I identify which loading gate (screw size) to get?

 

http://www.vtigunparts.com/store/shopdisplaycategories.asp?id=106&cat=Rifles

 

I'll probably just find a local gunsmith to help me out.....

If it were mine..

I'd take the side plate off..

Remove the loading gate..

Reinforce the brand new one in your brand new rifle with some JB Weld..

Won't need to worry about screw size.. Or worry about the tab bending or breaking off...

With 66's... It's not IF the tab breaks off or bends.. But when...

 

Rance ;)

Thinkin I've went the "stronger reinforced " route...

Use to carry 2-3 spares with me until I reinforced one..

No problem since. :)

Edited by Rance - SASS # 54090
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OP,

 

Doesn't matter if the '66 is New In the Box or well used, the first thing I do is remove the side plates, remove the loading gate and reinforce it with JB weld like many have already mentioned. This is usually available at the hardware store or automotive parts store.

 

After hardening, you may have to file the contour for proper fit.....After that is done you will NEVER have to deal with that issue again!

 

There are many You Tube videos on this if you want or need a good tutorial.

 

Bugler

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Spot weld or silversolder half a woodruff key to the back side of the loading gate tab and you will never have that problem again.

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OP,

 

Doesn't matter if the '66 is New In the Box or well used, the first thing I do is remove the side plates, remove the loading gate and reinforce it with JB weld like many have already mentioned. This is usually available at the hardware store or automotive parts store.

 

After hardening, you may have to file the contour for proper fit.....After that is done you will NEVER have to deal with that issue again!

 

There are many You Tube videos on this if you want or need a good tutorial.

 

Bugler

 

Thanks for the advice. Where can I find a youtube video on how to do this? Just searched but couldn't turn on up.

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OP,

 

Doesn't matter if the '66 is New In the Box or well used, the first thing I do is remove the side plates, remove the loading gate and reinforce it with JB weld like many have already mentioned. This is usually available at the hardware store or automotive parts store.

 

After hardening, you may have to file the contour for proper fit.....After that is done you will NEVER have to deal with that issue again!

 

There are many You Tube videos on this if you want or need a good tutorial.

 

Bugler

 

Thanks for the advice. Where can I find a youtube video on how to do this? Just searched but couldn't turn on up.

 

I found this excellent article.....

Reinforcing the Uberti Winchester 1866 loading gate

Key this into your search engine and it should take you right there....great photos and tutorial.

 

Bugler

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What we’re going to do is create a fillet of JB Weld behind the tab so once the gate is removed, degrease it, and use some sandpaper to rough up the back side of the tab as well as the base where you will be applying the epoxy.

Then just apply the JB Weld to create the reinforcing fillet like below.

1866gate_jb1.jpg?resize=640%2C480

After it sets but before it fully cures you’re going to need to take a knife or file and trim the material where it meets the tab so that the tab will fit in the notch of the receiver.

1866gate_jb5.jpg?resize=640%2C480

This is where it must fit. The tab doesn’t actually get pushed all the way into the notch when loading a round and as a matter of fact my tab reinforcement didn’t actually interfere with the notch but I trimmed it a bit anyway.

1866gate_jb4.jpg?resize=640%2C496

So that’s all there is to it, probably a 20 minute job and this gate should last forever.

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What we’re going to do is create a fillet of JB Weld behind the tab so once the gate is removed, degrease it, and use some sandpaper to rough up the back side of the tab as well as the base where you will be applying the epoxy.

Then just apply the JB Weld to create the reinforcing fillet like below.

1866gate_jb1.jpg?resize=640%2C480

After it sets but before it fully cures you’re going to need to take a knife or file and trim the material where it meets the tab so that the tab will fit in the notch of the receiver.

1866gate_jb5.jpg?resize=640%2C480

This is where it must fit. The tab doesn’t actually get pushed all the way into the notch when loading a round and as a matter of fact my tab reinforcement didn’t actually interfere with the notch but I trimmed it a bit anyway.

1866gate_jb4.jpg?resize=640%2C496

So that’s all there is to it, probably a 20 minute job and this gate should last forever.

 

 

+1...what I did

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