Reloading basics/getting started

[jrswanson1]

I use a big Lyman O press for my rifle loads, and I use a Lee Turret Press to load everything shorter. Plates are inexpensive and changing calibers takes me two minutes or less. The Lee is not a huge unit like the Dillon. The powder measure uses disks, which come with the powder measure, and there is a charge bar you can get that works for charges that don't fit the disks. Just my humble opinion, unless you're reloading 2000+ rounds a month, the Dillon is overkill.

[Marshal Chance Morgun]

How many rounds of each do you plan on reloading? I like my Lee 4 hole turret press, but I'm only loading 3,500-4,000 a year.

[Garrison Joe, SASS #60708]

 

For the shotgun, should you ever wish to try it, go with the MEC 600. Unless you get into shooting clays big time it will serve your needs well for a lifetime.

 

 

Another vote for the MEC 600 Jr. And it will load shotshells about 75 or a hundred an hour, if you have all the components at your finger tips.

 

Good luck, GJ

[Echeconnee Drifter]

I use a big Lyman O press for my rifle loads, and I use a Lee Turret Press to load everything shorter. Plates are inexpensive and changing calibers takes me two minutes or less. The Lee is not a huge unit like the Dillon. The powder measure uses disks, which come with the powder measure, and there is a charge bar you can get that works for charges that don't fit the disks. Just my humble opinion, unless you're reloading 2000+ rounds a month, the Dillon is overkill.

 

+1

 

I really second the idea of grabbing the Lee Turret press. It's what I started with, and is still the only press I use. More importantly, the OP has mentioned that he might want to load more than just a few pistol calibers, including .223 and .25-06. I would never recommend that some one start reloading rifle with a full progressive press like the Dillon.

 

To the OP, the Dillon is a great way to go if you see yourself loading 400-500 rounds at a time. If you're loading fewer than that, I would go with the Lee turret press which is sort of "semi progressive". For a beginning reloader, it will be far easier to use. Once you've got a hang on things, you can churn out ammunition quite quickly on the turret press, since you will only have to handle each piece of brass one time. The Lee turret press also has the advantage in that it's a great tool for reloading any caliber, no matter what sort of volume you reload.

 

As others have mentioned, that single stage press or turret press you start with, will forever be used. There are just things that a reloader needs a single stage press for and a progressive press just won't handle those.

[Bad Jeemes Kelly]

You are going to get a hundred answers, most involving spending a lot of money. But for starting out, and for ease of changing calibers, I want to get my vote in for a Lee turret press. You can spend a lot more, but these will do the job.

I agree - I have a Dillon RL 550B, a Lee single stage and a Lee turret. I use the turret as much as the Dillon or more, because it is quicker and easier to set up, even though the Dillon is faster to turn out ammo. Right now I have the Dillon set up to make my .38 ammo and the Lee turret set up for my cowboy .44 magnum.

[Jackson Rose, SASS #45478]

Whatever equipment you end up with, have fun with it. But....... learn what a good reloaded cartridge looks like. Including a proper crimp and a completely seated primer, and a correctly seated bullet. And use published, tested loads.

[Muleshoe Bill SASS #67022]

I started with a RCBS rockchucker and a Lee loader for shotgun, Now.... well I'll never admit to the wife how much is tied up in the Dillon 550B, caliber change kits/head w/ powder measures, dies, RCBS powder measures the MEC loaders (5) Lee Loaders (2)....

[Capt. Wild Willy McDonald]

I like the Dillon 650 for pistol and the Hornady LNL for "volume" rifle loads (e.g, .223, etc).

 

A turret press is the best way to go to begin with and then you can work your way up to a progressive. "Buy once, cry once" and get good stuff as the pards above have indicated.

 

+1 for MEC 600. Reloading 12's is a breeze on the MEC's plus they don't take up a lot of space. Have been using MEC's for reloading 410, 28, 20 and 12 for skeet. Regular 12 gauge loads are usually cheap to buy but the AA featherweights are pricey so you can save some $$ loading light.

 

Another note, you may want to start identifying what components (i.e., powder, primers and bullets) you want to use and start buying (not hoarding.....) some. Powders are getting easier to find but it's not like it used to be.

 

Good luck and please feel free to chime in with any questions...

[El Paso Bob, SASS # 71572]

I too will start reloading soon. What are the final cost(s) of a box of 50 .38 specials after reloading, the price buying everything including brass and then the price reloading with used brass.

[Muleshoe Bill SASS #67022]

El Paso Bob just for you:

http://www.handloads.com/calc/loadingCosts.asp

[Capt. Wild Willy McDonald]

 

When I did the math for .38, I came out to about $.08 - .10/round using your own spent brass and the cheapest cast bullets that I could find. "Used" brass (online prices) from what I recall was about $.10 each and new brass is ridiculously priced at around $.20 and up.

 

My advice would be to buy a few thousand .38 rounds in "bulk ammo" quantities, shoot it and SAVE THE BRASS for reloading.

[jrswanson1]

I have yet to come back from a range session without someone else their giving me their brass. Which is why I have a stockpile of 2000+ loaded rounds of .223 and I still have 2500 empties I need to process. While .38 Special isn't as popular as the auto cartridges, I can usually get around 100 per range visit if I ask nicely.

[El Hombre Sin Nombre]

I started on and still use a redding big boss press. While not flashy, it is solid and does a fantastic job, especially on rifle calibers. I guess that is the real question. I've never used a dillon, but can you load rifle calibers on it?

 

For the redding, or any single stage press, with the hornady lock and load bushings, you can change out dies quicker than I can type this sentence. I'm not fast, but I can load 50 rounds an hour from start to finish. If I work in batches instead, I average closer to 100 rounds an hour. I tend to run out of one or more components before I shoot all of my ammo so anything faster would be a waste for me.

[Singin' Sue 71615]

I have to agree with Fillmore....I love my Dillon Square B !

It is easy to catch a mistake. Dillon backs up their product....lifetime replacements if it is a part failure....can't beat it.

Easy to change out plate for caliber change...we have several 'heads' with powder measure, set and ready....just change the head!

One for Black (APP) . One for .38 and one for .45 !

[El Paso Bob, SASS # 71572]

When I did the math for .38, I came out to about $.08 - .10/round using your own spent brass and the cheapest cast bullets that I could find. "Used" brass (online prices) from what I recall was about $.10 each and new brass is ridiculously priced at around $.20 and up.

 

My advice would be to buy a few thousand .38 rounds in "bulk ammo" quantities, shoot it and SAVE THE BRASS for reloading.

 

Good advise Capt. I did just that, bought 1000 rounds of .38 for $289.00 free shipping and 500 rounds of 45LC for $299.00 free shipping, so now I will have brass when I get read to pull the handle. I also have thousands of rounds of jacketed that I will plink and save the brass.

Now the only question is which guest bedroom to take over and make a reloading room out of it

[Garrison Joe, SASS #60708]

I've never used a dillon, but can you load rifle calibers on it?

 

 

Yes, any of the Dillon progressive presses from 550 thru 650 thru 1050 will handle almost all rifle cartridges. .50 BMG - not so much.

 

But if you are holding off buying a progressive press because it WON'T load rifle, just remember that there are few folks who can afford to run a progressive press loading rifle ammo for more than an hour at full speed (ouch).

 

I still load the few hundred rifle cartridges a year that I need on either a Lyman single stage or a Lyman turret.

 

Good luck, GJ

[El Paso Bob, SASS # 71572]

Yes, any of the Dillon progressive presses from 550 thru 650 thru 1050 will handle almost all rifle cartridges. .50 BMG - not so much.

 

But if you are holding off buying a progressive press because it WON'T load rifle, just remember that there are few folks who can afford to run a progressive press loading rifle ammo for more than an hour at full speed (ouch).

 

I still load the few hundred rifle cartridges a year that I need on either a Lyman single stage or a Lyman turret.

 

Good luck, GJ

That's why I want pistol and rifle to be the same cartridge, all .38

[Garrison Joe, SASS #60708]

That's why I want pistol and rifle to be the same cartridge, all .38

 

EPB - you're a little confused.

 

SASS main match is shot with pistol caliber rifles. All of them have to be pistol cartridges.

 

Only rifle-type side matches involve any rifle cartridges.

 

 

Now, it is pretty simple if you keep all your main match cartridges the same caliber and the same load, but lots of folks don't, for many reasons.

 

Good luck, GJ

[Blackey Cole]

For the space challenged person.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/155024/frankford-arsenal-portable-reloading-stand

 

Add a TV tray, a tool box and a chair to sit on and you have more than enough to get you started.

thats what my 550 and strong mount are mounted to in my Rv but you need to put some weight on the base to steady it. I use angle weights that I've accumolated over the years and then on the back side I stack excess bullets and stuff. If your lucky you can mount two presses on it back to back I had my rcbs Rock Chucker on the backside for a while I usually just clamp my MEC on my wooden kitchen stool it doesn't require the steady base like a pistol/rifle press.

[Blackey Cole]

I recommend you start out by reading The ABC's of reloading 6th edition by C. Rodney James.

When I started reloading, this book really helped a lot.

I found the previous editions by Dean Grennell not very helpful for the rank beginner.

I know they are now in the 9th editions, but I have not read any past the 6th -- it was just what I needed.

 

Dillons are great presses, but I'm not sure if they are best for a beginner.

But, I also don't know if you'll be learning alone or with a knowledgeable friend.

 

I would recommend a turret press to start, and once you are a veteran loader, a Dillon 550.

Then either keep the turret (I still use mine a lot) or sell it.

A Lee cast iron 4-hole turret press will retain a lot of its value, so if you sell it, you can recoup most of your investment.

 

A lot of folks come from shooting families and learn to reload early on.

I didn't and had to learn everything by myself.

You can gauge where you are in the mix.

--Dawg

Very good book for the beginner it is a step by step type instructional book with infor on the products in a non biased format. It great even if you have a friend showing you the ropes with the book you don't have to call them when you are unsure what to do or forget something.

[El Paso Bob, SASS # 71572]

EPB - you're a little confused.

 

SASS main match is shot with pistol caliber rifles. All of them have to be pistol cartridges.

 

Only rifle-type side matches involve any rifle cartridges.

 

 

Now, it is pretty simple if you keep all your main match cartridges the same caliber and the same load, but lots of folks don't, for many reasons.

 

Good luck, GJ

Got it, thanks. Right now I shoot 45 pistol, 38 rifle, and 20 ga shotgun.

Don't want to mix my mounted guns with my CAS guns, that's why I am buying SASS 38 revolvers and a Uberti 38 rifle, already bought a 12ga so I can knock the crap out of the little sass dude. Reason for new rifle is old one is Winchester 94 plus my mounted rifle is a Taylor arms short stroke 45 and its a blast to shoot. My God will I ever stop buying guns? Hope not!

[Edward R S Canby, SASS#59971]

Good advise Capt. I did just that, bought 1000 rounds of .38 for $289.00 free shipping and 500 rounds of 45LC for $299.00 free shipping, so now I will have brass when I get read to pull the handle. I also have thousands of rounds of jacketed that I will plink and save the brass.

Now the only question is which guest bedroom to take over and make a reloading room out of it.

Look for an uncarpeted room. Despite your best efforts you will have some spillage.

 

For 38 Special brass keep an eye on the online auction sites for once fired brass. You can get 2,000 in a USPS flat rate box and I don't like to buy in lessor quantities.

[Blackey Cole]

I use to own a Lee turret press I had before the four hole version and converted it to the four holes when the upgrade kit came out. My biggest complaint about Lee is their cheap plastic priming system. It is more trouble to use than it's worth. If you go with the Lee get the rcbs hand primer. Deprimg in batches then prime in batches then size with the depriving pin removed then go as normal. The only time I had a primer ignight while reloading was using the Lee priming system and I gave up on it then. The rcbs priming system that uses the pickup tube is a much better system than the Lee.

 

For shotgun the 600 jr is a great beginner press for a single stage press if you want a progressive go to the 650.

 

Another grip about the Lee is it take four cycles of the loading handle to produce each round with the dillon after the third round you get a round per cycle od the loading lever so you only pull the three times without getting a loaded round. At the end the primer will not over flow or the powder will not drop with out a case in that station.

[Brimstone Bill Willson]

I too will start reloading soon. What are the final cost(s) of a box of 50 .38 specials after reloading, the price buying everything including brass and then the price reloading with used brass.

I calculated my 38's at $11.00 per 100 not counting brass. 45's cost me $13.20 per 100.

[Eyesa Horg]

Bought a used Dillon SDB in the mid 90's as my first machine and am still using today with no complaints and great support from Dillon. Learned how to use it as a newbie just by reading the manual. I think it's an excellent beginner and experienced operator machine. Doesn't do rifle however.

[Brasspounder]

I have been reloading for over 60 years. I bought and still use a stock Diillon RL-450....yes RL-450, I got new

a long time ago.

 

Dillon don't sell those anymore, but after way over 25 years of use,

mine has never broken anything, and will load all the ammo I need to load and shoot as fast as I need it..

 

I am in no hurry and have no interest whatsoever in upgrading this machine, mainly because it is

"manual" enough that you have to feed cases, primers and bullets plus drop powder manually, and that fact alone

(to my simple way of thinking) actually INCREASES safety on a reloading tool like this. there is a lot less

"machinery" on it to go wrong and cause troubles, yet it does all the loading operations very well.

 

I load my black powder rounds on the Dillon, but not all the way at once. I resize and reprime with it, then put the cases

in a loading block, and charge BP manually with a dipper so I can SEE that everything is right, then go back to the

Dillon to seat and crimp the completed rounds. Sometimes I even load smokeless that way, especially

in the large straight sided revolver cartridges that were originally designed for BP....It is easy to get a double charge

with smokeless if you don't pay strict attention.

 

I have dies and bullet molds for all the calibers/guns I own, and can load smokeless or BP as I wish.

 

It is Good Advice to have good reloading manuals, a good balance powder scale (mechanical, not electronic)

some good accurate dial calipers, and perhaps an impact bullet puller (to salvage "mistakes") and

perhaps a case trimming tool if you need one.

 

But other than those items, I haven't had to buy any other reloading tools for over 25 years, so muy initial

investment has more than paid for itself many many times over.

 

Buy good stuff, take care of it, use it properly and the investment is quite literally nearly a llifetime one.

[Rusty Chains]

Lots of good advice here, in the end the bottom line is start with documented loads you can find in any of the reloading manuals.

 

Most folks here will tell you to start with a single stage press. I guess I am the odd man out as my first press over a dozen years ago was a second hand Dillon Square Deal B progressive that I bought off eBay fairly reasonable. Since it does only straight wall cartridges and only Dillon supplies the dies you are limited to the pistol cartridges they offer for it. My second press was a Lee Turret that I bought for doing 300 blackout and any other rifle ctgs in the future (lower volume) and the most recent press was the cheapest Lee single stage I could find for depriming brass prior to putting it through a wet brass tumbler for clean and polish.

 

As you can see I went backwards to conventional wisdom, but the drummer whose beat I march to has a strange sense of rhythm!

[Lazy Dave]

I would recommend getting a single stage press and start there. It will teach you the basics of reloading one stage at a time. Once you master that then you can move up to a progressive or turret. I like the Dillon 550B myself. Oh yea you will always have a need for that SS press regardless of what you end up with. You can buy a RCBS "rock chucker" either used or new for a minimal investment, you won't be sorry!

 

--Rye

 

I'll add my 2c as well.

 

Starting with the single stage press is a good idea, it gives you better insight into what the process is and what can go wrong. you have the benefit of a single stage press if you want to make up some "Special" rounds for Long Range or Accuracy comps. It also gives the benefit of knowing what may go wrong on a progressive and how to avoid/remedy it.

 

I run a Dillon 650 with a (New) Mr Bullet Feeder and a few minor mods like a drop tube into a box for spent primers and about 10 primer tubes in small and large.

I load 38sp, .357mag, .45LC, .45ACP, 9mm and I have a Turret Head for each plus a set of dies for the single stage for .357/.38sp, .45LC, 45-70.

 

Changing over takes about 30 to 45 minutes with cleaning. If I'm changing settings it could be another 30 to 45 minutes.

 

I usually load the primer tubes first and make around 500 to 1000 of whatever I'm making so it's only about 2 - 4 hours of production and with the Mr. Bullet Feeder being a new addition I've found what it adds in setup time it saves in hand cramps and being able to run continuously.

 

On the whole though it boils down to what you like, see if you can get some people who use different presses to show you how their press works and maybe make a few rounds to get a feel for it.

 

Cheers

Lazy Dave

[Arcadia Outlaw, SASS 71385]

So...reloading is complicated????

 

Really????

 

Dang...good thing I didn't know that when I bought my first Dillon 11 years ago.

 

Phantom

 

 

Me too

 

Never reloaded in my life, bought a Dillion 650 never looked back, too me those who advise to buy a single stage and books and manuals its a waste of time and money.

 

All data can be found on line for one thing. Using a single stage will not teach you how to run a progressive press and guess what when your setting up a progressive machine you just run one rd thru at at a time so you can see how " things work "

 

You tube is great info as well

 

AO.

 

Good Luck !

[Blackey Cole]

If your gonna start out with a single stage press get one of the new rcbs rock chucker ones with the bushing for the dies. Not the quick lock but the full threaded one. It will serve you well now and later on you can use it for those tasks that are not doable on the progressive press. I use mine for loading brass shotshells and rifle ammo the rest I do on my dillon 550. Nice thing is the dies for one will work with both presses. So your intilal shopping list would look list this:

 

Initial list

 

A cs of reloading book

Rcbs Rock chucker with bushing

38/357 Lee pistol four die set

45colt Lee pistol four die set

45acp Lee pistol four die set

Lee auto powder measure x3

Rcbs 10-5-10 balance beam scale or dillon electronic scale

Rcbs or dillon knenic bullet puller

Rcbs case prep tools( handle, primer pocket brushes lg & sm, case trimmer and demurrer)

Loading block

Powder trickler if doing rifle loads

Dust cover for press

Die wrench

Presision calipers

Primer flip tray ( I prefer the metal one by dillon over the rcbs plastic one)

Pickup tubes for lg and sm primers

Auto Primer tube setup or if you want to prime by hand the rcbs hand priming tool

Case cleaner and tuff nut media

Media separator

Led lighting for press

Led lighting for this press

Next shopping list for progressive press setup for one caliber you shoot

The conversion kits for the other two calibers

Dillon 550 or 650 depending on you desire

Tool additional quick change kits the press should come with one setup

Dust cover

strong mount

 

If you get the 650 get a powder check die for each caliber.

 

Other than the above I can not think what you would need for both lists the initial gets you a one time lifetime quality gear as does the upgrade to the progressive list. Buy once quality and never buy again. Me I had the dillon at home and was staying up in ABQ for a while and got the rcbs to at least be able to load something while on the road then I got a larger Rv with a toy box and moved I. To it and my reloading gear in the shop. No idea but works when it needs to.

[Michigan Slim]

Dillon 550b

+1. I am almost to the 80,000 round mark and have replaced nothing. Not even a plastic tip. It will reload everything from small pistol rounds to most long action rounds. It can be ran like a single stage (how I load most rifle) or as a high volume (decent) progressive. I got advise too before I bought my first press and even shooters owning red presses said to get the 550B to start. They were right!

[Houston CAS]

What's the difference between the single stage and turret presses?

[Nickel City Dude]

What's the difference between the single stage and turret presses?

With a single stage press there is only one hole to hold dies and you need to unscrew the die that is in it to screw in another die for the next step. On a turret press there are several holes to screw in multiple dies. And the press will allow you to turn the turret to select different dies or sometimes the turret will turn automatically.

This is a picture of a turret press.

This is a picture of a single stage press.

 

[Capt. Wild Willy McDonald]

You only have one die in a single stage press. A turret press is like an upside down progressive press - the shell holder remains stationary and the dies rotate on a plate, or turret, above the shell. The purpose of a turret press is not to replace a progressive press but rather to one or more dies already adjusted and place so you don't have to do multiple die swaps when reloading. For example, after you've resized the case using the resizing die, you rotate the turret and have the next die ready for action.

[Houston CAS]

Thanks y'all. I'm starting to look more at the Lee Classic Turret Press as something that may fit my needs. The price for it is good, and it looks to be pretty compact. I ordered a Lyman's 49th Edition and will read through that.

 

For actual reloading components, from what I read, powder is the toughest thing to acquire, correct? So if I happen to see some at a gun store, what powder companies should I go for? Are there pistol powders and rifle powders, or can some powder companies be used for both? My primary needs for now would purely be reloading .38 Special for cowboy action shooting.