Irish Pat Posted December 26, 2014 Share Posted December 26, 2014 I got my son in law a smith model 66 double action for Christmas I put about 100 cowboy 125 grain loads through it with no problems. It is unloaded barrel is clear but we can't open the cylinder on it . What do we need to do? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Widder, SASS #59054 Posted December 26, 2014 Share Posted December 26, 2014 It would have had to open up to make it empty after your last shooting session. Soooo, it sounds like something has jammed it up good when you closed the cylinder back into the frame. Do you know if any lead shavings have accumulated around the barrels forcing cone? Does the cylinder latch function back and forth freely? p.s. - when closing the cylinder, you didn't swing it or snap it back into the frame did you, like they do in the movies? ..........Widder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irish Pat Posted December 26, 2014 Author Share Posted December 26, 2014 I gave it to my son in law yesterday he called last night and he could not get it to Open . I have had k-22s model 19s and model 29 since 1973 and never had a problem with any of mine. My guess is he flipped the cylinder shut . How so I get it open? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moose Wesson Posted December 26, 2014 Share Posted December 26, 2014 Possibly the ejector rod loosened up. I would smack the cylinder with a small mallet, while holding the cylinder release forward. When you get it open then you can check the ejector rod to see if it loosened up. Moose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abe E.S. Corpus SASS #87667 Posted December 26, 2014 Share Posted December 26, 2014 Unscrewed ejector rod is my bet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty barrels Posted December 26, 2014 Share Posted December 26, 2014 I agree with Moose, you mentioned you never had a problem with the m22, 19s, and 29s those are blued guns, the stainless does have a problem of the cylinder pin or (ejector rod)backing out which would cause it to lock up. I had that problem with a 629 doing that but I fix it by using a thread locker compound to prevent it from creeping out. Stainless is great for corrosion protection but you need to be prepared to retighten the screws once in a while. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Original Lumpy Gritz Posted December 26, 2014 Share Posted December 26, 2014 Ejector rod backed out. DON'T HIT THE CLY WITH ANYTHING! Do this ONLY if the gun is UNLOADED Jam a Popsicle stick in where the rod is. Cycle the action and see it the e'rod turns with the cyl. If it doesn't-It's loose. OLG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jackson Rose, SASS #45478 Posted December 26, 2014 Share Posted December 26, 2014 Put a small piece of masking tape on the ejector rod end to hold it. Then very carefully slip the hammer back intil teh bolt slips out of its notch and the hand is back. Then turn the cylinder clockwise to tighten the rod. If the tape won't hold it then have someone with a strong thumb hold it, hard to do with the shroud, but possible. I would only hit it as a last resort. Sometimes you can use a small screwdriver to push the plunger back further than the thumb latch will. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Clark Posted December 26, 2014 Share Posted December 26, 2014 Possibly the ejector rod loosened up. I would smack the cylinder with a small mallet, while holding the cylinder release forward. When you get it open then you can check the ejector rod to see if it loosened up. Moose DO not smack it with a mallet! The next plan of action after that is to order the replacement cylinder latch to replace the bent pieces! This is usually a symptom of the cylinder crane ejector rod having unscrewed partially. Usually it is easily tripped with a dental pick, not a mallet. If he has slapped it shut that hard, you my already be needing parts, but why add salt to the open wound? Also be sure to check the latch thumb piece screw for being loose as well. After you get it open, a tiny drop of Loctite on the ejector rod treads at the star will prevent a repeat in the future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griff Posted December 26, 2014 Share Posted December 26, 2014 I just can't resist... Did you tell him to PUSH the latch forward... ?? My mdl 65 has never had any of those problems described. Even with enough grit under the extractor star that it wouldn't fire, the cylinder would still swing out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irish Pat Posted December 26, 2014 Author Share Posted December 26, 2014 Moose you solved the problem. I did what you'd said the rod was very loose I tightened it up and it works fine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Payne 13115 Posted December 26, 2014 Share Posted December 26, 2014 Wait, Moose was voted down. Close it back up and try all the other suggestions and get back to us!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cat Brules Posted December 26, 2014 Share Posted December 26, 2014 Hey!!! This is a distinct possibility and it's easy to check out. YOU MIGHT HAVE ONE OR MORE squib bullets blocking the bore. As a general matter, DONT go banging on that weapon with anything, no matter what the reason. A squib may have been stuck in the barrel and the next round fired could not drive it out and that second bullet is partially in the barrel and partially in the cylinder. Use a cleaning rod to GENTLY probe the barrel to see if the rod will go all the way through to the back of the cylinder. You'll be able to hear it. If it's a squib(s) don't use the cleaning rod or a wood dowel to attempt to knock it out. Use a large diameter brass squib rod (11/32 inch or 5/16 inch) to gently tap out the squibs, if possible. If you can't or don't have the tools, take it to a smith. If it's not a squib, carry on, then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irish Pat Posted December 26, 2014 Author Share Posted December 26, 2014 Did i mention it was unloaded and the barrel was clear thanks everybody you can usually some good thoughtful advice if you read far enough merry Christmas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chili Ron Posted December 27, 2014 Share Posted December 27, 2014 Howdy, I agree Moose cant be right, get that gun jammed again and no smackin it with a hammer. Sheesh. Best CR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Driftwood Johnson, SASS #38283 Posted December 27, 2014 Share Posted December 27, 2014 Now that you have solved the problem, every time you fire the weapon be sure to inspect under the extractor star. Unburnt powder grains can work their way under the extractor star, causing it to sit proud by a few thousandths. This will also prevent the cylinder from unlatching. Always make sure this is no gunk under the extractor star. And be sure the ejector rod is tight. Frankly, I am surprised this happened with a relatively new Smith. The threads on the ejector rod were reversed years ago to prevent this from happening. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dubious Don #56333 Posted December 27, 2014 Share Posted December 27, 2014 Happens all the time Driftwood; all the left handed threads did was lessen the possibility the ejector rod loosening when the cylinder turns. When more people carried revolvers I saw this all the time but the more common problem was powder and junk under the star like you said. Smacking it open works if the rod doesn't bend which it usually does. Even with an ejector rod housing, it's pretty easy to put enough tension on the rod and spin the cylinder backwards one chamber at a time to tighten the rod until it's not caught at the front. They're rather fragile being hollow and relatively thin-walled. Of course then there's the trusty plier-tightener method; sure-fire way to crush the ejector rod. Almost always happens. Brownells sells a tool, actually two because you have to have a wrench for the rod AND a spanner to fit the chambers and protect the ejector star. Wit hthe older guns they used timy pins to align the star; tighten the rod without supporting the star and those pins get bent. The newer models did away with the pins and went with angled cuts on the star but occasionally I've seen bent ones (usually when the owner has pliers and a vise which are the second most popular reason behind a Dremel that gunsmiths make money!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Curley Cole, SASS #56849 Posted December 28, 2014 Share Posted December 28, 2014 I have the Tarus mod. 66 in 357m, it is simple the ejector has loosened up. screw it back in and it should solve problem. As stated before, never Bang on your gun. curley Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Jake1001 Posted December 28, 2014 Share Posted December 28, 2014 I never BANG on my gun, but my GUN goes BANG anyway, Just sayin' Jake Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOUTH-PACIFIC,SASS #59402 Posted December 28, 2014 Share Posted December 28, 2014 am S&W armorer never hit the gun with hammer you can bend things out of alignment and cause a bigger problem when you try to make it go bang. the ejector rod does come loose even on new guns. when tighting rod put a slight extra tension with a proper tool just finger tight is a little light for a lots of rounds + always check this before each session at the range Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
backshootin beauford mcgee Posted December 28, 2014 Share Posted December 28, 2014 Possibly the ejector rod loosened up. I would smack the cylinder with a small mallet, while holding the cylinder release forward. When you get it open then you can check the ejector rod to see if it loosened up. Moose Winner! This is almost always the problem. I would not hit it with anything though, you may bend the crane. I use a plastic knife that will not harm the finish to reach in and push the locking piece out of the slot in the ejector rod. Push it in the direction of the front sight and gently push the cylinder open as it clears the rod. Then tighten it up when you get it open. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Henry T Harrison Posted December 28, 2014 Share Posted December 28, 2014 If your not supposed to beat on your S&W revolver then why does Smith include a big ass lead bar in the armorers kit? Seriously don't beat on your gun, hold the ejector rod with your left thumb in the housing, cock the hammer enough to release the locking bolt reach around the trigger housing and rotate the cylinder counter clockwise.It will tighen the rod enough to open the cylinder. A little fingernail polish and your in business Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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