Jump to content
SASS Wire Forum

Driftwood Johnson, SASS #38283

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Driftwood Johnson, SASS #38283 last won the day on October 18 2017

Driftwood Johnson, SASS #38283 had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

819 Excellent


About Driftwood Johnson, SASS #38283

  • Rank
    When he talks, people listen.

Previous Fields

  • SASS Number or "Guest"
  • SASS Affiliated Club
    Anyplace that is foolish enough to let me shoot.

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • ICQ

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Land of the Pilgrims
  • Interests
    CAS, Black Powder, SW DA Revolvers, Trap, Woodworking, Model Trains, History, Reloading.

Recent Profile Visitors

  1. Howdy I've been shooting Black Powder in this game for a long time. Yes, a rifle barrel gets hot, but it does not get hot as quickly as a shotgun barrel does. That's because the walls of a rifle barrel are generally much thicker than the walls of a shotgun barrel. The heat propagates through the thin steel of a shotgun barrel much quicker than it does through the thicker steel of a shotgun barrel. I have been wearing one glove for years. Long enough that the Michael Jackson jokes have finally stopped. The little splinter stock on my old Stevens hammer gun means that my finger tips are almost always in contact with the barrels. On a hot summer day they get too hot to hold while I am still shooting it, so the leather glove is a must. I can fire ten rounds out of my Henry and still hold onto the barrel because it does not heat up so fast. But by the time I am heading to the unloading table it has heated up and is too hot to hold. So it is always a juggling act to grab both long guns, one with the ungloved hand and make my way to the unloading table. I usually grab the Henry by its stock and point it skywards. Luckily my toasty hot pistols are already in their holsters when I am walking to the ULT.
  2. Howdy Again A whole bunch of years ago I was shooting an old Stevens with 30" full choke barrels. The spotters used to say my pattern was about the size of a dinner plate on the knockdowns. Since then I have been shooting my Stevens side lock hammer double that I posted photos of earlier in this post. I did not cut down the barrels, that was done before I owned it. Anyway, I find the 24" barrels to be very handy for moving around on a stage, and regarding cylinder bores, which my old hammer gun obviously has, I have never been sorry. It knocks down everything I point it at, and the cylinder bores are great on poppers. I have often said shotgun choke does not really matter in this game. You have to aim the shotgun, no different than the rifle. Please don't tell me about pointing shotguns and not aiming them, I have been shooting Trap for over 20 years and know all about that. This is not Trap, the targets are not moving and you don't have to lead them. If you know where your shotgun shoots and you AIM it, you will knock down the target no matter what the choke is.
  3. Howdy There is a the small notch in the barrel band of the Henry. The arrow is pointing to the notch. There is a tab on the underside of the sleeve latch rod that fits into the notch. That is what keeps the barrel sleeve from rotating. Normally, when you pull the follower all the way to the muzzle, the follower lifts the latch about 1/16", freeing the barrel sleeve to rotate. Just a guess, but make sure the notch in the barrel band is not worn, and the tab fits in properly. You should not be able to rotate them unless the follower is all the way forward. Also, make sure the screw that secures the barrel band is tight. That's all I can come up with.
  4. Howdy Art Phelp's book is full of a lot of opinions. He continually states that the Merwin Hulbert revolvers were the finest revolvers made in the 19th Century, and he states that no other manufacturer could have made such an intricate design. I have four Merwin Hulberts, and I say BUNK! If you ever open up a Merwin you will find the fit and finish of the interior parts is nowhere near as good as what Smith and Wesson were making at the time. And he never mentions that although you can unload a MH quickly by pulling the barrel forward and rotating, never once does he mention that they have to be reloaded one round at a time through a loading gate. As far as the intricacy of the design, S&W could have easily reproduced the design if they wanted to. They did not need to because they controlled patents that forced Merwin to come up with his unique design. He could not make a conventional Top Break until S&W patents expired. Don't get me wrong, it is lots of fun to shoot a MH, but they could not be reloaded as quickly as a S&W Top Break, and the workmanship did not hold a candle to what S&W and Colt were producing at the time.
  5. Howdy I know many of us think that the wood on a Winchester toggle link rifle should look like the wood on this Model 1873 that was made in 1887. The fact is, over time the wood has darkened. They did not look like this when they left the factory. Take a look at the color of the wood on this 32-20 Model 1873 that left the factory in 1888. It has been restored, perhaps by Winchester, to what it looked like when it left the factory. Take a look at the restoration work Doug Turnbull does. I doubt he is making up the colors of the wood, I suspect he is restoring them to look as they looked when they left the factory. https://www.turnbullrestoration.com/ You can change the looks of your 1866 if you want, clearly it is your gun. But I suspect Uberti is putting a stain on their rifles to look like they did when they were new.
  6. Howdy I used to feel that way. But these days I'm pretty tuckered out after six stages, which seems to be normal around these parts.
  7. You guys who don't like the smell of Ballistol, have you smelled Hoppe's #9 recently? I think Hoppe's smells real bad. Good thing I don't shoot much Smokeless so I don't have to smell it very often. I have been using Ballistol for years. I do not object to the smell. It is very pungent and actually makes me sneeze, but I don't get out the Ballistol until the end of the cleaning session, so my exposure to it is not very much.
  8. Oh. Are we showing our 32-20 firearms? A 32-20 Winchester Model 1892 from 1911. A Smith and Wesson 32-20 Hand Ejector from 1916. A Colt 32-20 Police Positive Special from 1926.
  9. I too would sure like to see a photo of those RCBS 44-40 and 32-20 Carbide Dies. All my WCF dies are plain steel. The old set of 44-40 dies I bought a bazillion years ago are just plain old steel. Hornady coats their dies with Titanium Nitride (TiN) so they don't need case lube, but I lube them anyway. The 32-20 and 25-20 Cowboy Dies are steel. just as the label says. Not carbide.
  10. That's some fancy tricked out Henry, with its buttoned on leather lever wrap and the short little wooden fore end. The stroke is shorter than on mine. When Happy Trails installed the short stroke in mine he asked if I wanted the 'wicked' short stroke or just a 'regular' short stroke. I said regular. No, I have no idea what specific short stroke links he used. Anyway, I see the tab of the follower extending down at the end of the slot in your wooden fore end. Are you using some sort of spacer stick so the follower will push the last round onto the carrier?
  11. Howdy One does not need to be a gamer to want to put a short stroke kit into a Henry. Here is a photo of an Iron Frame Henry with a mild short stroke kit in it. Notice the stroke is slightly shorter than a stock Uberti 1873. I have it on the best authority that putting in a mild short stroke kit will shorten the stroke just enough so that if one chooses to use a spacer stick in the magazine, Like this, The tab on the bottom of the follower will stay far away enough from the frame that one never has to do the 'Henry Hop'. No need to add one of those silly hand guards that have just become legal, a leather glove works fine keeping the hand from getting burnt when shooting Black Powder on a hot summer day. No, I never practice, and I always shoot full loads of Black Powder. I seldom finish a stage in under a minute. I think that pretty well disqualifies me from being a gamer.
  12. Howdy I never use a jag. I use a bronze brush, followed by patches soaked in my favorite Black Powder solvent placed in the slotted end of a cleaning rod. For Smokeless you can use whatever Smokeless solvent you liked. For 44-40 I always use a bronze brush labeled as 44-45 caliber. It does not really matter.
  13. Yup. Soft bullets have no problem slugging up in the barrel. At last count I think I own five rifles chambered for 44-40. I have slugged them all, and they all have groove diameters of either .427 or .429. I have standardized on .428 for all my 44-40 loads, so I don't have to tailor the ammo to the rifle. Have not experienced any key holing.
  14. Howdy What is this 'practice' that you speak of? I never practice for CAS. I might bring a new gun to the range to try it out, or to try out a new load, but that's it. I don't go to the big matches anymore. Too lazy to drive that far. Even when I did, I didn't shoot them any differently than I shoot a regular monthly match. My goal is to get a clean match. Period. If I shoot a stage in under a minute, I'm happy. Yes, I did say under a minute. There is no rush, I walk from firing line to firing line. If I have to bob and weave between shots to see the targets, that slows me down too. I usually come in last or almost last in every match I go to. Suits me fine.
  15. Howdy I have more experience with 44-40 than 38-40, so that would be my choice. I do have an original 1873 Winchester chambered for 38-40 as well as a couple of Bisley Colts also chambered for 38-40. One thing I learned when I loaded up my first BP 38-40 rounds was not to put in quite as much powder as I did with 44-40. The old logic was they would both take 40 grains of powder. Of course with modern solid head brass the interior capacity is a little bit less. Modern 38-40 brass has slightly less powder capacity than modern 44-40 brass. What I found when I loaded up 38-40 with the same amount of powder as 44-40 was the soft lead bullets were squashing slightly when I seated them on the powder. This caused them to swell up slightly so they would not chamber in the '73. I cut back slightly on the BP charge, while still compressing the powder slightly, and everything was fine.
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.