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Driftwood Johnson, SASS #38283

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Driftwood Johnson, SASS #38283 last won the day on October 18 2017

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About Driftwood Johnson, SASS #38283

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    When he talks, people listen.

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    38283
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    Anyplace that is foolish enough to let me shoot.

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    Male
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    Land of the Pilgrims
  • Interests
    CAS, Black Powder, SW DA Revolvers, Trap, Woodworking, Model Trains, History, Reloading.

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  1. No. The I frame was much smaller than the N frame, which is what your 455HE is built on. I doubt that hammer will fit.
  2. Howdy Again This is what the rear sight on all the early Hand Ejectors looked like. This one happens to be on my 455HE. All they did was cut a spherical recess with a ball end mill after the groove had been cut. I can't tell from your photo what the light tan is, but this is the way they left the factory. That is what the hammer should look like too. Good luck finding a replacement hammer for a revolver made over 100 years ago. You might try Numrich. This is the rear sight on my Model 1917. Notice the grooves on the side of the hammer. This was done to give oil a place to collect. They stopped putting the grooves on the side of the hammer pretty early. Here is another view of this style rear sight. This one is on a K frame 38, but it is very similar to the rear sights on the bigger, early 44 Hand Ejectors. After a while (no I don't remember exactly when) the fixed rear sights on all S&W revolvers looked like this. The rear sights on their fixed sight revolvers still pretty much look like this. This one is also on a K frame 38. I will have to get back to you about the markings. The top one is definitely a British Broad Arrow acceptance mark. Pretty sure the next one is a crown, also probably British, but I will have to get back to you about that and the others.
  3. Howdy Again The top most mark on the left side of the frame on the revolver in question is a British Broad Arrow. I cannot see the rest of the marks clearly enough to make them out. Your revolver is clearly not chambered for 45ACP. When seated in the chamber of a Model 1917 or similar S&W revolver, the case head will be sitting about .090 proud of the rear of the cylinder. This is to allow the space required for the half moon clips. The case head will sit proud like that whether or not the rounds are mounted in clips, because as I said earlier, with a S&W, the chambers are cut so the round actually head spaces on the case mouth. Not so with a Colt 1917, many of them were bored straight through, and if not mounted on clips the round would fall all the way through the chamber. You may be able to fire 45 Auto Rim in that revolver. The rim of the 45 AR round is .090 thick. This is so the round can headspace on the rim without being mounted in a clip. No idea if your revolver is strong enough for 45 Auto Rim, but generally speaking 45 AR ammo is loaded to the same specs as 45 ACP. Here is a photo of a bunch of 45 caliber cartridges. Left to right they are 45 Colt, 45 Schofield, 45 Cowboy Special, 45 Auto Rim, 45 ACP, 455MKII, and 455 Colt. Dimensions: 45 Colt and 45 Schofield are identical except for length, 45 Colt case length is 1.277 Schofield case length is 1.095. The big difference is the rim of the Schofield round is wider in diameter. 45 Colt rim diameter is nominally .512, 45 Schofield rim diameter is nominally .520. Both rims are nominally .060 thick. The wider rim of the Schofield round was so the extractor of the Schofield revolver had something to grab. 45 Cowboy Special is the same length as a 45 ACP, but has the same case head dimensions as 45 Colt. This round was developed a number of years ago by Adirondack Jack specifically for CAS. The idea was a case with less powder capacity would perform better with the light powder charges that many CAS shooters used in their 45 Colt ammo. So the case was the same length and had the same interior case capacity of the 45 ACP, but the rim configuration was the same as 45 Colt so it could be fired in single action revolvers chambered for 45 Colt. Adirondack Jack gave me a bag of 45CS brass a number of years ago. I measured a few. Case length is .894. the main body diameter is .476. Rim thickness is .060 and rim diameter is .506, just slightly under the max rim diameter of 45 Colt. I loaded up one dummy round with a 250 grain bullet and its over all length is 1.187. 45 Auto Rim dimensions match 45 ACP dimensions, except the rim diameter is .510 and rim thickness is .090. 455MKII (with the black bullet) is the round the 455 Hand Ejector was chambered for. Case diameter of this one is .472, case length is .763, over all cartridge length is 1.233, rim diameter is .524, rim thickness is .036. The dimensions of the 455 Colt are case diameter .474, case length .880, COAL is 1.373, rim diameter is .529, rim thickness is .040 My Model 1917 loaded with some cartridges. The longest one sticking out is a 45 Schofield. Clearly much too long for the 45ACP chambers of this revolver. Going around clockwise, sorry some are out of focus, 45ACP, 45 Auto Rim, 45 Cowboy Special, 455MKII, and 455Colt. The only rounds that seat properly in the 45ACP chambers of this revolver are the 45ACP and the 45Auto Rim. Difficult to see in this photo, but both rounds seat about .090 proud of the rear of the cylinder. This allows space for a half moon clip with the ACP round, or the .090 thick rim of the Auto Rim round that headspaces on its rim. The .060 thick rim of the 45 Cowboy Special (without a primer) is too thin, the round can slop back and forth by about .030. That gets us to the two copper colored rounds. Both seat fine. Both have very thin rims, about .035 or the MKII round, about .039 for the 455 Colt round. In this revolver, these rims are much too thin, they allow the rounds to slop back and forth about .050 to .055. P.S. I used to use Photobucket to host my photos, but it became too much of a pain. These days I use Image Shack.
  4. Yup. I am still using my first rig. It's been over twenty years, but I am still using it. Lots of loops with lots of shiny ammo are pretty much a thing of the movies. This is my rig. Two shotgun slides with 4 rounds each because I don't like to wear a shotgun belt in addition to a gun belt. 2 2nd Gen Colts (about 2 1/2 pounds each) One 45-70 round as an homage to John Wayne. About 4 or 5 44-40 rounds for rifle reloads in case I need them. No 45 Colt rounds because we have not done a pistol reload in these parts in years. Thinking of getting rid of the knife too, it serves no real purpose and gets in the way half the time. Commodore Perry Owens' rig was a bit unusual, but most cowboys just had a few, if any, loops on their belts.
  5. Howdy I discovered a long time ago that 25 45 Colt cartridges add a lot of weight to my gunbelt. This is my rig. Each Colt weighs about 2 1/2 pounds, and they get pretty heavy at the end of the day. I don't care for a shotgun belt, so two shotgun slides that carry 4 each are sufficient for most stages. The 45-70 round in the middle of the belt is an homage to John Wayne. There are usually about 4 44-40 rounds near my right hand pistol, for the occasional rifle reload. I have not experienced a pistol reload in years, so I don't bother carrying any extra 45 Colt rounds on my belt. Thinking of getting rid of the knife, don't really need it. Everything else, screw drivers, cleaning rods, brass rods, loading block, empties bag, bore brushes and jags, rags, Ballistol, Murphy's Mix, band aides, gloves, water, snacks, and assorted other tools stays in the cart until needed. My gun tool box with lots more tools in it stays in the car unless needed.
  6. Howdy I don't know anything about Webleys. I know a little bit about Smith and Wessons. Most of the early S&W revolvers with side swinging cylinders were called Hand Ejectors. This is because the earlier Top Break designs such as the Schofield automatically ejected the spent cartridges when the barrel was swung down to reload. That type of automation was not possible with the side swinging cylinders, ejection had to be done manually (and still does) by pushing the front of the ejector rod in. So since the empties had to be ejected manually, or by hand, all the early side swinging S&W revolvers were called Hand Ejectors. S&W typically named their early Hand Ejectors after the cartridge they were chambered for. The first large frame Hand Ejector was the 44 Hand Ejector, 1st Model. It was also known as the New Century. This model was first cataloged in 1908 and it was the first revolver to be chambered for the then new 44 Special cartridge. Collectors like to call this model the Triple Lock, because unlike any other S&W model the cylinder was secured in three places. At the rear, at the front of the ejector rod, and a third latch, or lock was installed in the yoke and engaged by a plunger installed in the under barrel lug. This very worn Triple lock is a very early one, it actually shipped in 1907, not 1908. Notice the caliber marking on the barrel says 44 S&W CTG. CTG simply means cartridge. Later, this model was marked 44 S&W SPECIAL CTG, because S&W invented the cartridge and they always marked their name on the barrel of any revolver chambered for a cartridge they invented. For instance, S&W always, and still stamps their 38 Special revolvers 38 S&W Special, because they invented the cartridge. This is a view of the third latch. This hardened piece of steel was mounted in the yoke. The spring loaded plunger protruding from the under barrel lug is what engaged the latch in the yoke. When the cylinder was closed the ramp on the latch would engage the plunger, pushing it in, until the cylinder closed and the plunger popped out into the hole. The plunger for the front of the ejector rod can also be seen in this photo. Actually, both plungers are one 'U' shaped part, held in place and guided by the two pins that are visible. When the thumb piece on the frame was pushed forward, it shoved the front of the ejector rod forward, which then pushed the upper plunger back so the cylinder could be released. Since both plungers are the same piece, the lower plunger retracted at the same time. The 44 Hand Ejector, 1st Model (Triple Lock) was made from 1908 until 1915. Some Triple Locks had been sent to Britain during WWI, and they were chambered for the British 455 Mark II cartridge. These were known as the 455 Hand Ejectors. Anyway, the British did not like the under barrel lug, they felt the hollow would easily collect mud in the field, possibly disabling the gun. So in 1915 S&W produced the 44 Hand Ejector, 2nd Model. This model lacked the 3rd latch. This is a typical 44 Hand Ejector, 2nd Model. It is chambered for the 44 Special cartridge. Notice the big under barrel lug is missing, replaced by a small under barrel latch that engaged the front of the ejector rod, no different than most other S&W revolvers with a side swinging cylinder. The price of a 44 Hand Ejector 1st Model in 1908 was $21. The price of a 44 Hand Ejector 2nd Model was $19. The $2 difference, a not insignificant sum in those days, was due to it being more expensive to machine the 3rd latch. The 45 ACP Model 1917 was a variation of the 44 Hand Ejector, 2nd Model. WWI broke out in Europe in 1914, and S&W was pretty sure Colt would have its hands full producing enough Model 1911 45 ACP Semi-Automatic pistols. So S&W went to the US government and suggested it would be simple to create a 45ACP version of their 44 Hand Ejector, 2nd Model, chambered for 45 ACP. All they had to do was open up the chambers and the bore a little bit. The rear of the cylinder had about .030 more clearance behind it so cartridges mounted in half moon clips could be used. This is a typical S&W Model 1917. Barrel length was standard at 5 1/2". When the US declared war on Germany in 1917, S&W was already producing this model. Pictured with it is a typical box of 45ACP ammunition that came with the revolver. Notice their are three rounds mounted on the clip. The grips on this Model 1917 are not typical, but I like them so I have left them on. If you look carefully you will see an inspector's mark on the frame next to the hammer. This is one of the early ones with the GHS inspection stamp, for Major Gilbert H Stewart, who was the government designated inspector. Later versions had the 'flying bomb' stamp on that spot. (P.S. this revolver closes and functions fine with these old cartridges mounted on these old half moon clips. No, I am not going to fire them, but everything locks up and functions fine.) In 1926 Fort Worth dealer Wolf and Klar requested S&W produce a 44 Hand Ejector with a large under barrel lug, similar to the lug on the Triple Lock, but lacking the 3rd Latch. So S&W obliged by creating the 44 Hand Ejector, 3rd Model, sometimes called the Wolf and Klar Model. This nickel plated 3rd Model was carried by an officer during WWII. Note the trigger and hammer have been nickel plated, indicating it was an after market refinish job, S&W never nickel plated hammers or triggers. Notice too that the grips are very worn. Having been replated like this, and not particularly well, this old revolver does not carry a lot of collector value, but I like it because it is so distinctive. I have the holster that it was carried in all through WWII squirreled away somewhere, and it is very worn too. After S&W reintroduced the large under barrel lug on this model, it became standard on many large frame Smiths, particularly the magnum models. This is a 44 Hand Ejector, 4th Model Target. Notice the Patridge front sight and the adjustable rear sight. This one shipped in 1955. In 1957 when S&W went over to a model number system, this model became the Model 24. You will not see any identifying model marks on any of these old Hand Ejectors. S&W simply did not mark them that way in those days. Not until 1957, when they went to the model numbering system did S&W start marking actual Model Numbers on their revolvers. They were marked on the frame under the yoke, and still are. What you have there is a 455 Hand Ejector, 2nd Model. Take a close look at your front sight and you will see its shape has been modified from what the front sight looked like on all these other fixed sight Smiths. The large rectangular boss at the bottom of the sight is still there, but the blade has been reshaped at some point in time. This is a 455 Hand Ejector, 2nd Model. This one shipped to Canada in 1916. This odd looking marking is the Canadian Broad Arrow inspection stamp. The same as the British Broad Arrow, except it is surrounded by a large C for Canada. This particular 455 HE (HE is short for Hand Ejector) had a 44 Special cylinder and barrel installed at some point. This was very common with these 455 HEs, when they made their way back into the US, where the 455 Mark Mark II cartridge was not always easily available. A lot of these revolvers were converted to 44 Special or 45 Colt when they got back to the US. S&W revolvers of this era had the Serial Number stamped in 4 places. The SN of record was at the bottom of the grip. The same serial number was also stamped at the rear of the cylinder, on the underside of the barrel, and you have to look hard in good light but it was also stamped on the underside of the extractor star. Checking these places is a good way to know if the revolver in question actually shipped with those parts. If the SN in any of the other three places differs from the SN marked on the butt, the gun did not leave the factory with that part. If the SN is missing from the rear of your cylinder, that is a sign the cylinder has probably been shortened for the 45ACP cartridge. If so, there should be roughly .090 of space between the rear of the cylinder and the frame. That is about all I can tell you, I cannot tell you specifically what the story is with you 455 HE, 2nd Model, as to what it is presently chambered for. I can tell you that a S&W Model 1917 will chamber 45 ACP rounds with or without the clips. Unlike the Colt Model 1917, the chambers are cut so that the cartridges will head space on the case mouth and they will not fall through if they are not loaded onto clips. You can fire 45ACP in a S&W Model 1917 without clips, but you will have to poke the empties out with a stick. P.P.S. These are inspection marks, not proof marks. When a revolver was accepted for military service, a government inspector would inspect each revolver to make sure it met specifications. These government inspectors usually worked in the military armories of the country in question. They were often military officers stationed in the armory. If the revolver was up to snuff, the inspector would use his stamp to mark the revolver. Marks such as the GHS marking on my Model 1917, or a Flying Bomb, or a British Broad Arrow, or a Canadian Broad Arrow were not applied by the manufacturer, they were stamped their by the government inspector after he had decided the gun met the contract criteria. Proof marks were not stamped by the manufacturer either. They were stamped by the proof house after the firearm had been proofed with a 'proof round'. These rounds generally developed about 25% - 30% higher pressure than the standard Maximum pressure of that round. Not the 100% higher pressure you will sometimes hear about. Proof houses were usually run by the governments, not the manufacturers. In the modern era, some manufacturers do proof their firearms, I toured the Remington factory in Ilion NY many years ago and saw the apparatus they used to proof their rifles. As I say, this was not a government run proof house, we don't have any in this country any more. But Italy still has government run proof houses, and every firearm produced in Italy gets proofed in a government run proof house, and stamped accordingly.
  7. Man Up? Sorry I am not man enough in your eyes. I have been shooting my Uberti 1860 'Iron Frame' Henry as my main match rifle for about ten years now. Yes, 44-40 and only loaded with Black Powder. Yup. those are photos of my spacer stick. It is made from a piece of 1/2" hardwood dowel, available at any well stocked hardware store. Funny, just yesterday somebody on another forum asked me about how to make one. Here is what I wrote: I made it from a piece of 1/2" hardwood dowel. The dowel is actually about .450 diameter, but it is just standard 1/2" hardwood dowel you can buy in any hardware store. It is a tad more than 4 1/2" long. I don't know if you shoot cowboy, but we don't load more than 10 rounds in the magazine as a rule. My Henry will actually hold about 13 rounds, I think, I have not tried in a long time. Anyway, to get the exact length I wanted I loaded 10 rounds into the magazine, and then put the dowel into the magazine. This will vary a little bit with how long your rounds are. I load all my BP 44-40 rounds, so they are all the same length. I marked the dowel and cut it off so the follower had a little bit of free play, not much more than 3/8", when the magazine was loaded with 10 rounds and the stick was in place. That allows the follower to move down far enough to latch the magazine closed. There has to be a stop on the stick or it will slide into the carrier when the last round is chambered and jam the carrier. The stop has to prevent the stick from sliding all the way onto the carrier. I used a piece of 5/32" (.156) diameter brass tubing that I had laying around, but you can use anything that will slide down the slot in the magazine. The slot is a bit under 3/16"(.187) wide. To mark the spot for the stop, I put one round into the magazine, so it would be resting in the carrier. Then I slid the stick down and lowered the follower onto it so the follower was holding the stick firmly in place. I used a pencil to mark the spot on the stick at the end of the slot, making the mark just a tad up from the end of the slot, so when the stop was in that position it would stop the stick from protruding any further onto the carrier. I drilled a hole a little bit undersized in the stick at that spot and drove the piece of tubing in. That's it. I put a slant on the end of the stick so the carrier would ride by it easily. I have been using this stick for a long time, you can see how one end is stained. With the spacer stick in place on top of a column of rounds, and my hand holding the magazine near the frame, the follower never quite reaches my hand. I filed the stop down enough so that it is not protruding out of the slot by much, so I can feel it as it slides by my hand, but my hand, or my glove, does not impede its motion. My spacer stick can be used with any quantity of rounds in the magazine, but we usually load ten. The other thing about the spacer stick is it functions as a bit of a safety device. I have heard too many horror stories of Henry followers slamming down onto the column of cartridges in the magazine and setting them off. Yes, it can happen. When I load my Henry I NEVER drop rounds straight down the magazine. I lay the rifle on the loading table at a slight angle so the rounds will trickle down the tube. I wrap one hand around the magazine so if somehow the follower got away from me it will slam into my hand, not the cartridges. Yes, it will hurt, but it is better than an accidental discharge in the magazine. What I like about the stick is once the magazine has ten rounds in it, and the stick is in place, if the follower were to get away from me it can only travel about 3/8" or so. Not far enough for the spring to get in going full speed.
  8. Howdy Yup, Boss of the Plains. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boss_of_the_Plains The first common 'cowboy hat". High crown to insulate the top of the head, and a relatively wide brim to keep the sun out of the eyes. The actor in the photo has the front of the brim turned up. If you study photos taken of cowboys in studios in the 19th Century they often turned up the front of the brim to keep their face from being in shadow. This is Will Rogers as a young man.
  9. Howdy The first time I had my blood tested in 2017 it came in at 11.9. The state considers anything over 10 to be excessive, so I got a routine notice from the state about my elevated level. According to the state, a level of 1.2 is normal in adults. For a while I was wearing rubber gloves when handling bullets for reloading, but I did not like the lack of the feeling of touch using rubber gloves. When I had my blood tested a year later the lead level was down slightly, but not much. I suspect most of my contact with lead comes from Trapshooting every week. Lead gets deposited on the surface of everything, including my shotgun. I no longer cast my own bullets. A friend recommended a product called LeadOff made by Hygenall. It is a soap that removes heavy metals. My friend was religious about using LeadOff each and every time he was in contact with lead, and got his lead count down to next to nothing. I have not been quite so religious as my friend and I suspect my lead count has not gone down very much. Have not head my blood tested yet for a while. I expect I will have a physical in the fall and will have it tested again. Clearly, do not eat or drink anything after handling lead. And it is best to wash with cold water, not hot. Hot water opens the pores and more lead will be absorbed through the skin.
  10. Howdy I have been loading 45 Colt, 45 Schofield, 44-40, 44 Russian, and 38-40 with real Black Powder on my Hornady Lock & Load AP for many years now. Have lost count of how many years, probably at least 15. Have used Goex, Elephant, and Wano over the years, these days I load exclusively with Schuetzen because it leaves a bit less fouling behind than Goex. I do not use the standard Smokeless powder measure when loading BP I have a Lyman Black Powder measure that I use on my Lock & Load presses. I agree with Garrison Joe. It is not static electricity that is likely to ignite Black Powder, it is a hot mechanical spark. Modern Black Powder has a graphite coating on the grains that will conduct static charges over the surface of the grains. This prevents resistance from building up enough heat to ignite the powder. The Lyman Black Powder measure has a brass rotor rather than the standard steel rotor. The body is made of iron. A steel rotor might create a spark in an iron body, a brass rotor will not. Regarding grounding the press, I worked in the electronic industry for many years and understand how Electro Static Discharge (ESD) will damage microelectronic circuitry. We took a reminder class every year, which included reviewing slides of microscopic damage done to delicate circuits by ESD. The air in the clean rooms was kept at a high level of humidity to prevent static charges from building up, all the work stations were grounded, the chairs had a chain on the bottom to drag on the conductive floor to drain charges, and all the workers wore grounded wrist straps (with a resistor in them). Paper, plastics, and wood were not allowed on the work station because they are static generators. Anything that does not conduct electricity will create a static charge. The point is, every time you move you create a static charge on your body because of the motion through the air. Every single motion. Then every time you touch anything connected to ground, a spark jumps from you to ground. Each and every time. You will not feel the spark until it is several thousand volts, but it is there every time. Grounding the workers this way prevented a charge from building up, so there was no spark created as they worked. My point is, unless you completely ground your work station as I have described and wear a ground strap, grounding your press will achieve absolutely nothing because every time you touch the machine a spark will jump. I try not to load Black Powder in the dead of winter when the air is very dry. Other than that, I don't do anything different than loading Smokeless, except I use the Black Powder measure. Having said all that, a few years ago I was on vacation in Florence Italy. There is a museum in Florence that had several interesting displays. These are called Thunder Boxes. They were used in the very early days of scientific experiments with electricity. The idea was a small charge of Black Powder was placed on the pedestal in the middle of the box. Then a Leyden Jar was used to discharge an electric charge to the brass ball at the top. Leyden Jars were a very early form of capacitor. Ben Franklin used them to hold electric charges for his experiments. When a probe from the Leyden Jar was touched to the brass ball, the powder on the pedestal ignited, blowing the boxes open. Why? because there was no graphite coating on the powder grains in those days, and the current surging through the powder grains encountered enough resistance to heat the grains to their ignition temperature. Probably if the powder had a graphite coating in those days it would not have ignited, but this proves that an electrical charge will absolutely ignite Black Powder if not coated with graphite.
  11. Howdy I have probably been using my pair of Hornady Lock & Load AP machines for close to 20 years now. I have three loading tubes each for large pistol primers and small pistol primers. I have a short attention span and seldom load more than 200 rounds in a sitting. That means just filling two tubes up. I do it the old fashioned way, picking the primers up one at a time after getting them all facing the same way in a shaker tray. Takes me about 2 minutes to fill up 2 tubes. Never been concerned enough about it to consider doing it any other way.
  12. The first time I shot at Candia I wondered who the guy was wearing the Mexican outfit. It was Captain Morgan Rum. Many fond memories of shooting with him. I think the last time I saw him was at the Black Powder Match in Candia last year. Vaya Con Dios Cap.
  13. No. I will not shoot a match wearing a mask. But my reasons will probably rile some here. Fact: Someone may have the virus but be asymptomatic. Fact: Someone my have the virus but not have a high temperature yet. I do not wear a mask to protect myself, I wear it to protect others in case I have the virus and am asymptomatic. Wearing a mask prevents me from spreading droplets in my breath that may carry the virus. I am well over 60 years old, so I hope that others do the same for me. If I have the virus but am asymptomatic I may not have a fever yet, so taking my temperature may not indicate whether or not I have the virus. I do not have the Constitutional right to yell Fire in a crowded theater. I do not have the Constitutional right to not have to wear a mask if it is dictated by the governor of the state I live in. I will not shoot at a match that requires a mask to be worn simply because it is too darn hot in the summer to be outdoors wearing a mask all day. It is not necessary for me to attend a Cowboy Shooting Match this summer. I will wait until there is a vaccine. I will also wait until there is a vaccine to go into a restaurant to eat, go to a bar, or attend events where social distancing is not possible or practical.
  14. Quote

     

    Howdy Driftwood Johnson

    I trust these Photos are of use to you

     

    Jabez Cowboy

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    1. Driftwood Johnson, SASS #38283

      Driftwood Johnson, SASS #38283

      Howdy Jabez

       

      Thanks for the photos.

       

      My shotgun is clearly different than yours. Mine has side locks, yours is a boxlock. And the bottom of my shotgun looks different than yours. I have a book about Stevens/Savage, and it clearly shows the model 235, which looks just like yours.

       

      It does not show my shotgun.

       

      If you google Stevens Model 250 you will find photos of my shotgun. Only because at some point somebody, I don't remember who, told me that is what it is.

       

      However I just googled again and came up with a picture from an old catalog, which pretty well convinces me that mine is a Model 250.

       

      Thanks again for the photos.

      Underside.JPG

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      TwtwI2T.jpg

    2. Jabez Cowboy,SASS # 50129

      Jabez Cowboy,SASS # 50129

      I was that Cowboy that suggested it was perhaps a 250 ...

      A 325 is a Boxlock and a 350 is a sidelock , and I thought that might be the case with the 200 series as well ...

       

      I trust you are Well ...

       

      Jabez Cowboy

    3. Driftwood Johnson, SASS #38283

      Driftwood Johnson, SASS #38283

      Well, there you have it.

       

      Thanks for reminding me it was you who suggested mine was a 250. I did not remember.

       

      I'm glad we both agree on what mine is, there is no model number on it.

       

      Thanks again,

       

      Driftwood

  15. Howdy Driftwood Johnson :

    Pard, it is my failing that I have No idea as to how to get Photos onto the Wire, but I have just taken some pretty good ones of my Stevens Model 235 ....

    I just noticed there is an Attachment icon below , will it work for getting you those Photos ???

    My gun has matching Ser.# and I bought it from the Son of the first owner....

     

    Jabez Cowboy

    1. Driftwood Johnson, SASS #38283

      Driftwood Johnson, SASS #38283

      Let's see.

       

      I clicked on it and downloaded this photo from my hard drive. I did not have to go out to Photobucket to get the photo. Did you receive it?

       

       

      Stevens 355 and 250.jpg

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