thanx one and all for your advice

[Too Tall Bob]

There seems to be a wide variety of preferences of magic elixers used to clean up shooters after subjecting them to thr dark side powfer. I am starting to venture that direction so am looking for ideas/recommendations, etc. And - I know you all won 't feed me too many wild tales. Thanks in advance. I will enjoy my scotch and rocks and see what comes back!

[Yellowhouse Sam # 25171]

Pretty much warm water will do. Perhaps a drop or two dawn dish soap to cut the greasy lube residue. This is what I do.

 

Maybe a 10:1 solution of water and ballistol. Some like a little windshield washer fluid. Dry and follow up with your favorite protectant.

 

It ain't Rocket Science.

[Tom Bullweed]

Magical elements: Ballistol and vinegar-based Windex (absolutely not ammonia-based Windex)

Moose-milk: 1 part Ballistol to 5-10 parts water, useful for loosening powder buildup during the match and spraying guns after the match

Once home, spray again with straight Ballistol and clean with wire brushes to remove all powder residue

Spray with Windex and let set for 10 minutes. Spray and brush again to get to base metal. The Windex works well on removing plastic wad buildup.

Oil and put it away. I use RemOil.

I soak my BP brass in dish soap and water at the match. My jar is big enough to hold my brass and pistol cylinders until I get home.

Tight crimps, compressed powder and Winchester primers increase powder burning and reduce the amount of residue to be removed from my guns.

This works in humid NC. Performance will vary with loads and humidity.

Welcome to the darkside!

[Jackson Rose, SASS #45478]

Pretty much warm water will do. Perhaps a drop or two dawn dish soap to cut the greasy lube residue. This is what I do.

 

Maybe a 10:1 solution of water and ballistol. Some like a little windshield washer fluid. Dry and follow up with your favorite protectant.

 

It ain't Rocket Science.

What Sam said. Personally I like the 1-10 Ballistol to water, also known as moose milk. Friend of mine takes the grips off his pistols and holds them under the tap in his laundry room. When dry he oils them.

[Yellowhouse Sam # 25171]

Magical elements: Ballistol and vinegar-based Windex (absolutely not ammonia-based Windex)

Moose-milk: 1 part Ballistol to 5-10 parts water, useful for loosening powder buildup during the match and spraying guns after the match

Once home, spray again with straight Ballistol and clean with wire brushes to remove all powder residue

Spray with Windex and let set for 10 minutes. Spray and brush again to get to base metal. The Windex works well on removing plastic wad buildup.

Oil and put it away. I use RemOil.

I soak my BP brass in dish soap and water at the match. My jar is big enough to hold my brass and pistol cylinders until I get home.

Tight crimps, compressed powder and Winchester primers increase powder burning and reduce the amount of residue to be removed from my guns.

This works in humid NC. Performance will vary with loads and humidity.

Welcome to the darkside!

 

If you have a nice slick barrel then the vinegar based Windex could be okay. I know lots of people that use it successfully. Being an acid, vinegar is suspect in my book and especially for slightly or greatly pitted vintage rifles. Much care must be taken to ensure there is no after rust. Found out the hard way on an antique roller sporting rifle. Scrub, scrub, scrub, then rinse, rinse, rinse, oil, and re-check in a few days if you have an oldie.

[Yellowhouse Sam # 25171]

What Sam said. Personally I like the 1-10 Ballistol to water, also known as moose milk. Friend of mine takes the grips off his pistols and holds them under the tap in his laundry room. When dry he oils them.

 

The hot water method is pretty much all our great grand pappys had and they did a good job all considerin! My muzzleloaders are seasoned like fine Griswold skillets and petroleum or harsh detergents never enter the realm. Hot not scalding water, scrub, and bore butter/tallow. No problems in 30 years.

[Apache Hawk 60642]

Some Black Powder Solvent from Dixie Gunworks.

 

Real does a go job.

 

Also Bristol and hot water in a ultra sonic cleaner works too.

[Too Tall Bob]

The hot water method is pretty much all our great grand pappys had and they did a good job all considerin! My muzzleloaders are seasoned like fine Griswold skillets and petroleum or harsh detergents never enter the realm. Hot not scalding water, scrub, and bore butter/tallow. No problems in 30 years.

well, that is the same thing I do with my muzzle loader. Just wanted to be sure I am headed in the right direction.

[Al OVERA, SASS#26238 Life]

well, that is the same thing I do with my muzzle loader. Just wanted to be sure I am headed in the right direction.

If you want to keep the bluing on your guns, keep anything vinigar away from them. Personal experience talking here.

Al

[Sergeant Smokepole #29248L]

I use hot water with a dash of Simple Green added...

[Wolfgang, SASS #53480]

There are those that wax lyrical over the use of "Moose Milk" . . and "Mule Snot" . . . but I prefer "Weazil Piss".

 

Go out into yur back yard and catch yurself a Weasil.

 

 

 

But, . . . be advised . . . . that them Wheesils is slippery fast little devils and catching one was quite a chore. ( One end of the Weasil has sharp little teeth. Do not grab it by that end. )

 

 

 

 

I thought the worst was over when I had a firm grip on him, . . . . . but, . . holding him down while I pried his mouth open and got the funnel in wasn’t any easier. After the first two bottles of beer inserted into the upper end of his elementary canal he began to produce the desired product. And by the third bottle things got much easier as he’d discovered that he like the stuff I was pouring into his gullet. Now he can’t get enough of it. He turns up his nose at domestic beer and will only drink good imported stuff, . . . British and French are Ok with him but is preference is for German brews. The end product is being pumped out at a great rate. I have considered getting a bottling set up and marketing it . . . . but unfortunately the marketing of “cottage ( ie. garage ) produced products” on the SASS wire has been banned. You’ll just have to catch yur own Wheesil . . . .

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

If’n ya want to do it “easy way” with the artificial “Wheesil Whiz” ya just mix equal parts Murphy’s Oil soap, Hydrogen Perozide, and rubbing alcohol, . . . works good, . . . just not quite as exotic as using genuine “Wheezil Whiz” . . .

[Subdeacon Joe]

There are those that wax lyrical over the use of "Moose Milk" . . and "Mule Snot" . . . but I prefer "Weazil Piss".

 

Go out into yur back yard and catch yurself a Weasil.

 

 

 

But, . . . be advised . . . . that them Wheesils is slippery fast little devils and catching one was quite a chore. ( One end of the Weasil has sharp little teeth. Do not grab it by that end. )

 

 

 

 

I thought the worst was over when I had a firm grip on him, . . . . . but, . . holding him down while I pried his mouth open and got the funnel in wasn’t any easier. After the first two bottles of beer inserted into the upper end of his elementary canal he began to produce the desired product. And by the third bottle things got much easier as he’d discovered that he like the stuff I was pouring into his gullet. Now he can’t get enough of it. He turns up his nose at domestic beer and will only drink good imported stuff, . . . British and French are Ok with him but is preference is for German brews. The end product is being pumped out at a great rate. I have considered getting a bottling set up and marketing it . . . . but unfortunately the marketing of “cottage ( ie. garage ) produced products” on the SASS wire has been banned. You’ll just have to catch yur own Wheesil . . . .

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

If’n ya want to do it “easy way” with the artificial “Wheesil Whiz” ya just mix equal parts Murphy’s Oil soap, Hydrogen Perozide, and rubbing alcohol, . . . works good, . . . just not quite as exotic as using genuine “Wheezil Whiz” . . .

 

 

Given the use of the "product" I would suggest a smoked dopple-bock.

[Fairshake]

I have been a BP shooter since I went to work in a full service gun store in 1970 and the owner became my first BP mentor. He took me out one weekend and we shot all the Army, Navy revolvers and the famed 50 caliber Hawken. I was hooked for life.

Sure there are a lot of people who still use the hot water and soap method and it does work but with draw backs. If all the water is not dried from the gun, you have the starting of a thing called "RUST". This is 2012 and we have much better products available. Why have surgery with no anaesthesia just because that is the way it was done hundreds of years ago.

The best thing is the use of what is called Moosemilk which has been posted but not in the best mix ratio.

You purchase a can of 16 oz Ballistol and pour 2 oz of it into a spray bottle followed by 14 oz of warm tap water. This gives you a 7-1 mix and is the best that I've found to work. 10-1 is too weak and anything stronger than 7-1 tends to separate in the bottle and not stay mixed well.

Why is this stuff so great? Well you may spray the entire gun down with it inside and out and not worry about it ruining your wood or leather on the gun as it is made for that also. I spray my revolvers until they drip with it.

After a good cleaning with the Moosemilk, you just put your favorite gun oil/ lube on the metal parts and it's ready for the next shoot.

My favorite lube at this time, for about the last three or four years is a product called EEZOX. It's 100% synthetic and by far passes up all others when it comes to gun protection. Do a search on the OPEN RANGE forum and see the test done by John Boy and you will become a user. It may even be on this forum also.

If you shoot the real BP as I do, don't believe in the subs. If you shoot the subs why not just shoot smokeless powder? None of the subs produce the flames, sparks, or sound of the real thing. They are made very similar to smokeless with an additive that produces smoke and that is not all that happens when firing the real thing.

You may also not rush home at break neck speed to clean those guns when using the real powder. I usually shoot on Saturday and clean by Tuesday or Wednesday with out any problems regardless of the false rumors that are spread.

You may also use Windex/Vinegar for the shotgun as it cleans out the melted plastic wad from your barrels on the first pass. It comes out in one long wad looking like a shed snake skin.

Welcome to the fun of the Darkside! Fairshake 44WCF Warthog loads all the way.

[Yellowhouse Sam # 25171]

I have been a BP shooter since I went to work in a full service gun store in 1970 and the owner became my first BP mentor. He took me out one weekend and we shot all the Army, Navy revolvers and the famed 50 caliber Hawken. I was hooked for life.

Sure there are a lot of people who still use the hot water and soap method and it does work but with draw backs. If all the water is not dried from the gun, you have the starting of a thing called "RUST". This is 2012 and we have much better products available. Why have surgery with no anaesthesia just because that is the way it was done hundreds of years ago.

The best thing is the use of what is called Moosemilk which has been posted but not in the best mix ratio.

You purchase a can of 16 oz Ballistol and pour 2 oz of it into a spray bottle followed by 14 oz of warm tap water. This gives you a 7-1 mix and is the best that I've found to work. 10-1 is too weak and anything stronger than 7-1 tends to separate in the bottle and not stay mixed well.

Why is this stuff so great? Well you may spray the entire gun down with it inside and out and not worry about it ruining your wood or leather on the gun as it is made for that also. I spray my revolvers until they drip with it.

After a good cleaning with the Moosemilk, you just put your favorite gun oil/ lube on the metal parts and it's ready for the next shoot.

My favorite lube at this time, for about the last three or four years is a product called EEZOX. It's 100% synthetic and by far passes up all others when it comes to gun protection. Do a search on the OPEN RANGE forum and see the test done by John Boy and you will become a user. It may even be on this forum also.

If you shoot the real BP as I do, don't believe in the subs. If you shoot the subs why not just shoot smokeless powder? None of the subs produce the flames, sparks, or sound of the real thing. They are made very similar to smokeless with an additive that produces smoke and that is not all that happens when firing the real thing.

You may also not rush home at break neck speed to clean those guns when using the real powder. I usually shoot on Saturday and clean by Tuesday or Wednesday with out any problems regardless of the false rumors that are spread.

You may also use Windex/Vinegar for the shotgun as it cleans out the melted plastic wad from your barrels on the first pass. It comes out in one long wad looking like a shed snake skin.

Welcome to the fun of the Darkside! Fairshake 44WCF Warthog loads all the way.

I'm a big fan of ballistol & water don't get me wrong. Using mainly just water, the mix and then straight ballistol is a really good method. Its the people that use scalding water, tons of soap, and scrubbling in the bath tub that are doing unnecessary chores.

 

I cheat in other ways too. At home, the barrel and breech areas are dried with air. If away from home a can of pressurized air works pretty well. If you're in a hot climate thats not necessary but if after shooting its a cool rainy/dreary day it needs help.

 

Gonna have to try to EEzox. Read a lot about it. Oh yeah, wanted to remind folks that peroxide is a really strong oxidizer and it'll cause rust to set in if you don't watch out...specially in lightly pitted vintage barrels that are inherently harder to clean.

[Forty Rod SASS 3935]

I've used Lemon Fresh Joy liquid dish washing soap and hot water for nearly 40 years. I works very well, doesn't smell too bad and after all this time my hands are still soft and lovely. Rinse well and dry everything thoroughly, then oil with your favorite brand. WD40 is good for a quick overnight stay, but you'll want something better (Hoppe's or Ballistol) for longer.

 

Actually any liquid dish soap works and in the field. I kept a plastic half gallon jug of the stuff, about 2 tablespoons of soap, the rest tap water, at the line and mixed new at camp every evening if there was a good water supply at hand. It doesn't work as well cold, but it will get by until you get home or to a fire to heat water.

 

You don't need to get exotic unless you want to spend the time and money.

[Badger Mountain Charlie SASS #43172]

Just use Smokeless powder.

[Noz]

If you want to keep the bluing on your guns, keep anything vinigar away from them. Personal experience talking here.

Al

 

YOU DID THAT TOO?

I sprayed my 1860s down with Windex with vinegar. A customer came in and I didn't get back for about 2 hours. No blue!

 

 

Water! Cold warm hot all work well for cleaning black powder. A little soap hold the material in suspension making for an easier rinse.

[Badger Mountain Charlie SASS #43172]

Just use smokeless

[Presidio]

Murphy's Mix

 

Equal parts of Murphy's Oil Soap, Rubbing Alchohol, and Peroxide.

 

 

I swear by it. Tho, I find it best to use outdoors.....only cause the kids hate the smell.

[Yellowhouse Sam # 25171]

Murphy's Mix

 

Equal parts of Murphy's Oil Soap, Rubbing Alchohol, and Peroxide.

 

 

I swear by it. Tho, I find it best to use outdoors.....only cause the kids hate the smell.

 

Good cleaner but don't let it run down your hand rubbed oil stocked flintlock or other for that matter. Leaves unmentionable streaks. I just avoid all oxidizers and acids for cleaning BP period.

[Badger Mountain Charlie SASS #43172]

You guys aren't paying attention. Use smokeless!

[Utah Bob #35998]

You guys aren't paying attention. Use smokeless!

Snort. A passing fad!

 

I have tried every new "miracle" cleaning recipe that came down the pike for the last 15 years or more.

 

I finally settled on Windex to clean and Ballistol to lube.

 

Cheap and effective. No problems. Simple is good.

[Badger Mountain Charlie SASS #43172]

Back in the day, I used detergent soap and hot water, and WD 40. I would suggest changing the WD 40 to Ballistol for the sulphur and charcoal. I didn't know about Ballistol back then.

[Sergeant Smokepole #29248L]

You guys aren't paying attention. Use smokeless!

 

 

Anybody can hit them big ass targets thiiiiis close when you can see 'em....lol

[Badger Mountain Charlie SASS #43172]

:lol:

 

I got a big ass and poor eyes, Sergeant. I still can't hit them on a regular basis.

[Gunner Gatlin, SASS 10274L]

Simple. hot water and scrub the bore. Air blast dry. Light lube with Balistol.

 

GG

[Gunner Gatlin, SASS 10274L]

You guys aren't paying attention. Use smokeless!

 

Yuck...

 

GG

[Wolfgang, SASS #53480]

Murphy's Mix

 

Equal parts of Murphy's Oil Soap, Rubbing Alchohol, and Peroxide.

 

 

I swear by it. Tho, I find it best to use outdoors.....only cause the kids hate the smell.

 

Commonly refered to as : "Weasil Piss"

 

Wurks just great. I soak the cylinder as I'm alternating a bronze brush and patches with the piss down the bore. Then pull the cylinder out of the soak . . run a patch in each chamber, wipe it off. Wipe down the pistol with a bit of paper towel with the weasil stuff on it . . then lube with my 50/50 mix of toilet bowl wax and olive oil. Clean and slick as a Wheezil.

[Presidio]

Yep ! That's it alrighty, Wolfgang. Only I don't havta' be squeazin' no weasel to get it!

[Two Spurs]

Using APP the first time (experimenting with loads) with plastic wads clean up was a nightmare.

 

Then I starting inquiring a solution and heard basically what has been mentioned above.

 

Interesting note- Shared the SxS with Sunny ( ) at Tin Star this May. She was shootig smokeless and I was running APP. Seems that running the smokelss rounds though it kept the plastic build up not near as bad as the first go-round.

[Rye Miles #13621]

Murphy's Mix

 

Equal parts of Murphy's Oil Soap, Rubbing Alchohol, and Peroxide.

 

 

I swear by it. Tho, I find it best to use outdoors.....only cause the kids hate the smell.

 

 

+1

 

 

 

after cleaning use any kind of gun oil.

 

Rye

 

 

 

[Deja Vous]

There seems to be a wide variety of preferences of magic elixers used to clean up shooters after subjecting them to thr dark side powfer. I am starting to venture that direction so am looking for ideas/recommendations, etc. And - I know you all won 't feed me too many wild tales. Thanks in advance. I will enjoy my scotch and rocks and see what comes back!

 

 

 

I don't shoot cap and ball.. but I do shoot black powder.. And for good reason.. I am nuts.. lol.. I love the smoke, the fire, the smell.. and with each shot downrange I have to laugh about how it must have been back then. I doubt I am tough enough to have lived back then, but I sure have a romance with it. My best pal.. JJJ's introduced we to Balistoil.. and I love it.. I use it on everything here in the dry southwest... Oh, boy the whole thing is the smell the smoke and the fire.. ..

[Too Tall Bob]

Well DV, I have shot a muzzle stuffer for years, hunting, targets, tin cans whatever,... and I agree with you - the fire and the smoke and there ain't nuthin' that compares with black powder shot after dark.....

[Wolfgang, SASS #53480]

I don't shoot cap and ball.. but I do shoot black powder.. And for good reason.. I am nuts.. lol.. I love the smoke, the fire, the smell.. and with each shot downrange I have to laugh about how it must have been back then. I doubt I am tough enough to have lived back then, but I sure have a romance with it. My best pal.. JJJ's introduced we to Balistoil.. and I love it.. I use it on everything here in the dry southwest... Oh, boy the whole thing is the smell the smoke and the fire.. ..

 

Mixed with water it is commonly refered to as "Moose Milk"

 

 

But I'm happy with using the production of the south end of my wheezil's alimentry canals . . . .