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People like Cat are the reason I don't get on here much myself. While I've met some very nice folks here there are way too many like him who give the organization a bad name. And as for his comment that if you buy from a non-member you have no recourse- what does he think is going to happen if you get cheated by a member? Is SASS going to send out a posse? Fraud is fraud and if it really occurs, the postal inspectors can be called.

Hi Folks, For future reference, just use the Report feature and the Moderators will check things out. Also, there is no need for one person to submit multiple reports. We will get an email that there is a report and there is a red indicator at the top of the page that we can see until the item is cleared by a Moderator. . Will, I'm sorry for the confusion over your SASS status. I believe that it occurred because you did not list your number before making the first post and, in post 3, you said it had lapsed. I hope you won't let this incident scare you off. You are welcome here whether you are a SASS member or not. However, you may not sell on the Classifieds once your membership expires. Regards, Allie

Buy a PC and not a liberal, commie, Mac.

PETA = Pompous, Egotistical Totalitarian Adolescents

'Important Announcement' - We have been able to schedule a shoot at Tusco this coming Saturday, January 21st! Thanks to the Tusco Rifle Club with working with us, we will be able to have a Normal "Winter" Shoot. We are planning on setting up two stages and shoot them three times differently each, scoring 6 stages. Or if we have enough shooters, setting up three stages, shooting them two times differently, scoring 6 stages. Pam's Chuckwagon will be open as usual with Breakfast and Lunch available for purchase. Weather looks great for next Saturday, 56 and Partly Cloudy! Safety Meeting at 10am. See you there - Buckaroo Bubba

VP-elect Mike Pence makes me smile. In an interview this morning, the left-leaning interviewer asked him about some vague issue involving Trump and something said months ago. Pence just looked at the interviewer, smiled and said that the media is a big part of the problem. There a big issues being worked on before Trump even takes his oath, and that non-issues are being used to promote agendas. Simple, kind and informed. I like the way he works.

I'm a member of quite a few forums, and some I just go on for info and to read.Without a doubt this is one of the nicest sites I've been on, with the nicest people,,,,,,,,,, even with our differences about whatever the issue is. Cowboys seem to know how to agree to disagree.Some of the forums are just unbelievable, sometimes they're like a barroom brawl. Cowboys are the best !! : Just sayin" Be proud Cowboys, I am. Isom

Pence is an adult in an arena of few adults.

Be extremely cautious of scrapyard lead. Bulk un-melted WW are ok as is sheet lead. Ignots of unknown composition may contain zinc. Even a tiny amount of zinc ruins lead for casting bullets and is difficult bordering on impossible to separate out. If you buy bulk WW be sure to check each one to ensure it is lead and not zinc. My dad still has over 2000 lbs of lead in small ingots of various sizes. Problem is some or all of it may contain zinc. As I have no reliable way to know if the ignots have zinc in them they are useless to me for casting bullets. 40 years ago we were casting large fishing sinkers and having a little zinc in the mix didn't matter. We melted down anything we could get for little or no cost. Made a special pot for melting down WW. I probably melted down at least of ton of bulk WW. Never bothered to check for zinc ones. Just filled the basket, dunked into the pot and after it melted removed the basket with the clips and slag all together. Nobody cared if a sinker was a little wrinkled all that mattered was that they were inexpensive.

Do not go cheap on moulds. Most mass made moulds are junk, IMO. You get what you pay for - These are about the best made now. http://brooksmoulds.com/ OLG

Good Afternoon: Yep, they always go to an FFL, but I can ship long guns fedex. My FFL can send handguns USPS -- way less costly then Fedex/UPS Overnight! Thanks for highlighting that LG, just in case newbies think they can send them directly to the buyer. Have a good long weekend --Dawg

Thanks, I should not let it bother me, and I am to blame for the confusion as I wasn't sure of my status myself and had to look it up. Should have read up and looked the information up first before posting. As for the suggestion of cheating someone, that's what really burns me up, end of the day, my word is all I have. Even if there was no legal recourse, which there is, all someone would have to do is get on blade forums, or any other knife maker's forum and start complaining, that would run my reputation right into the ground.

I do all my casting in 30:1 alloy and use DGL lube. Do my casting in the Winter. OLG

GP has a pretty large learning curve. If you want to be successful at using it, it probably takes about 4 hard hours of sifting thru the limited documentation and forum help available, and trying out on some of your photos. But, I was able to get fairly good at using it in that 4 hours of testing and trying, even without a teenager looking over my shoulder pointing at the next thing to click. But, it too right now does not seem to let you build a link that shows a picture directly in the SASS Wire page. The link it builds seems to be prohibited for display here. But I can put in a link by just pasting in the URL of a shared Google Photo, and adding "?.jpg" to the url. This is directly pasted into the text of this message, not made part of an IMG tag (using the little picture icon tool from the toolbar) nor was it made an html fragement by using the angle-bracket tool from the toolbar. Just pasted in in the text editing window. A link to a picture of a serrated revolver sight: https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipNUs2RxZv7w1M-6QYdawkw2AoF9KgkTEKL09tXq?.jpg Of course, this is not where I WANT to be with making my posts directly show images, so I guess I'm still looking too. OK, this is a photo shared from SmugMug. Their image url pasted into the image icon URL field and WORKED first try! Upside - very easy to drag and drop a photo into your storage area. Seem very professionally organized (not like imgur). Downside - an account is $40 or more a year (more gets more storage). May keep looking. Tried deffe.com - they won't turn on my account by sending me an activation message. Good luck, GJ

Seaworld is right behind them. PETA and the other groups have pretty well killed it.

Been casting for 40 years. Yes, this is the answer. Sure wish I'd had these resources when I first started. The above and other great articles can be found on the Los Angeles Silhouette Club website.

Good luck with your casting efforts! It's both easier than most folks think, and harder than it looks. Since you have already been referred to the best learning materials (Fryxell's work and the Lyman Cast bullet Handbook) above, I'll add some quick-start tips. Good, clean alloy of what ever hardness you choose is VERY important. So, never melt down range lead or wheel weights or any metal that is not already real clean and of known content in your casting pot. Get an old cast iron pot and melt "dirty" lead in that, flux and stir until NOTHING will come out of the metal, and cast small ingots of that to add to your casting pot. I can do all my casting now with three different stocks of lead ingots. Pure lead, slightly hard lead (about Brinell 9-10) and hard lead at about 16 Brinell hardness). And some tin to add when needed (old style solder or pewter). The most common commercial alloys you can buy from the various vendors and their hardnesses are: * soft (pure) lead - Brinell 5 * hardball alloy 6% antimony and 2% tin - Brinell 16 * Lyman #2 5% antimony and 5% tin - Brinell 15 So, I can make all three types of ingots I want with just the first and second of these. Pure lead - easy, In old melting pot, toss in the pure lead. Maybe add 0.5% by weight of tin to make the lead fill molds better. Comes out about BNH 6 Use this for casting round balls for percussion revolvers Slightly-hard - about 10 Brinell - 2 pounds of soft lead to 1 pound of hardball Good for almost all SASS shooting. Even use it for 1911 pistol bullets. Hard - 16 Brinell - straight 6/2 alloy cast into small ingots. Good for long range smokeless loads for rifles, especially Wild Bunch BAMM bolt action rifles. And for black powder cartridge loads, a pound of my slightly-hard ingot to a pound of pure lead ingot. Gives about 8 Brinell. An old muffin tin makes a good ingot mold for small 1 1/2 pound ingots that go into any casting pot. Avoid calcium alloys (from maintenance free batteries in cars, trucks, golf carts) - it makes any metal that contains it hard to cast and clogs up pots and is dangerous to your health. Avoid zinc alloys (from the new zinc wheel weights) and even some use of zinc bullets in target loads. Lots of scrap thought to be lead is found later to be zinc. It makes any alloy hard to cast, increases bullet hardness a lot, and makes bullets more brittle and lighter weight than normal. Clean molds really well with hot soapy water and a scrub brush immediately before first use. Pre-warm molds with an old hot plate. Never use steel brushes, knives, picks, etc to clean up lead on molds. Brass brushes are even too rough. Keep all of the mold cavities clean of oil and other material while casting. The sprue cutter plate and the top of the mold will sometimes collect lead alloy, especially if you are not waiting a few seconds to cut off the casting sprue (puddle). That can be cleaned with a rag just moistened with 2-cycle engine (for mixing in gas) oil. I use the synthetic version of 2-cycle oil with great results. It keeps the sprue plate and mold top lubricated even when they are hot, so lead won't stick nearly as easily. AND, NEVER let any damp, moist or wet ingots, tools, or fluxing material get near the molten lead. Water explodes into steam at the temmperatures of molten lead, and throws molten lead around wildly. Wear gloves - and a face shield if you like seeing things. Wear leather boots or work shoes - lead spilled down onto tennis shoes or flip flops becomes a life-long problem! Good luck, GJ

I use as pure of lead as i can for CAS. I lucked into an endless supply of linotype and use that sparingly with wheel weight lead for my rifle bullets. Make friends with a plumber, printer, roofer and a tire shop guy. I also just got into making my own shot. WW lead for that.

See my reply on Cast Boolits

True enough Pat. Along with this one...

I have cast my own bullets for many years, and have made my own alloys depending on the need. I enjoy doing it, but plan to buy my lead already mixed from a couple of places I have found on the web The one thing I will point out is by the time you buy your lead and pay for your molds and other equipment and figure your time it's cheaper to buy your bullets

Download this book in PDF. From Ingot to Target: A Cast Bullet Guide for Handgunners by Glen E. Fryxell and Robert L. Applegate Will answer your current question and a whole lot more. I an also getting into casting and it cleared up a lot. A lot of what is written is oriented more towards handgunners but it can easily be extrapolated to rifles. Then get the Lyman Cast bullet Handbook. Just a hint but proper lubrication is as important if not more important than how hard your bullets are.

I mix my own as that's what I have access to. Really I don't pay much attention to hardness for CAS. I start with fairly pure lead and add enough tin so that the bullets come out smooth and without voids. I have a separate mix for high velocity for hunting rounds. Those I added a bit more tin to them, but only until I feel that they're reaching the Lyman #2 type hardness. I'll also water drop those versus just dumping them onto a pan to cool like I do for my CAS bullets. Water quenching adds a lot of hardness, air cooling doesn't. If you are unsure of what to do, getting ready mixed alloys would be best and safest. However it is more expensive. I cast mainly for CAS so I don't need perfect bullets. My higher velocity hunting rounds do get special treatment though and usually only 25% of those make it through to loading as I'm not satisfied with the quality and consistency of the rest.

I too like the notion of "do it yourself stuff". The casting bug got ahold of me about 2 years ago so I do not feel as if I'm a pro at this yet. I order my Lyman #2 from Roto Metals and have not had any issues. I use the Lee 10 pound bottom pour pot but want to get the RCBS Pro Melt soon. I have a variety of Lee and RCBS molds for SASS bullets.

Brian Buckshot, There's a Pard here on the Wire named Springfield Slim. He does leather work at very reasonable prices. His website is http://www.whyteleatherworks.com/ You could send him a PM but his mail box is full. Real nice guy and he makes nice stuff. He is making me a custom holster now. I sent him an email to let him know his PM mail box is full but his email link is on the main page of his website.

single white female

I do... I mount each press to a 3/4 inch piece of plywood. The sides of the plywood are angled at about 15 deg. The bench top is a double layer - one layer of 3/4 with a second mounted on top. However, there are "slots" in the second top which is basically strips of 3/4 ply, cut with the "slots" out - to accept my press mounting plate. I have "blank" plates to fit it, so I can have a flat top work bench. You wouldn't have to do a complete second top and could just reverse mount a mounting plate on each side to make a slot. I have several mec jr's, lee progressives, and single stage presses mounted like this. Been using it for 10 years or more, works great.

But will what happens in Vegas stay in Vegas?

Apparently the Raiders are going going gone to Vegas lol

What are there grounds for terminating you? Layoff, firing? You definitely should be able to collect unemployment. Once you start collecting, send them a registered letter rescinding your retirement and collect the unemployment as long as you can....then retire! screw them.................

There is a lot of painting being done here with a broad brush and that always get's annoying and could turn a prospective BP shooter away.(whether the OP or someone else reading) The OP left the survey kind of open, asking only which hardness is preferred, setting no other qualifications. I took/take that to assume a typical 5 or 6 stage match. Also assuming that they probably already reload their ammo. For the "non-enthusiast" BP shooter, someone looking to "dip their toe in", perfectly acceptable results can be found easier than casting up or hunting up a supplier that makes soft bullets. He also didn't specify that he's loading for an odd throated/chambered/bored relic. Hardcast bullets, that he already has, with subs, can most likely be loaded on his existing tooling with virtually no changes. For BP (and pushing the easy button), a lube wad can be added. This isn't a Bullseye game. The guns need to run for 5 or 6 stages and hit large, close steel. Our prospective shooter may want to indulge in chasing lube rings/stars at the muzzle and shooting a 2 or 3 day match with no/minimal cleaning, but that isn't necessary to compete successfully with BP/subs. Nothing wrong with the nostalgia of "that's the way they did back when" or loading for guns that may need special care or for the guy that likes sitting in front of the lead pot, but it's not necessary for most CAS competitions and I've been competing in CAS with BP since the early 90's.

Sale pending. Comments and attitudes like Cat's is one of the reasons I don't come around very often. Too many people hide behind a keyboard and think they are invincible and can't be touched, and suddenly they get real brave. Here's a suggestion, how about you act online like you would to someone in person? At bare minimum the aggravation of some people would get a cussing, some would likely get a more severe chastisement if done face to face. I do my best not to start drama or to insult people, I require the same in return. Thanks to all who were helpful and honest.

The best way to loose a friend is to get involved in thier money decisions.

Pure lead for percussion, straight WW for suppository cartridges. But, then I don't go by popularity, I've tested what works in my guns, with my loads.