Fireball #7709 Life

The actual grip frame itself has not changed in weight since they introduced it. The gun frames they put the grip frames on, vary in weight depending on caliber and size, but unless you go to a 22/32, it's not a significant amount.

I can't see where the ring is, from the pic, but with a 20" barrel it's probably too far back to cut off and not become an SBR? Unless it really bothers you or throws shots all over, I think I'd run it, sure doesn't look like much of a ring from the pic. While a new barrel is only $100, unless you have the tools to turn the barrel shank, cut threads, cut the chamber, cut the extractor/tab grooves and sight/mag hanger dovetails, that will quickly rise in cost. I'm not sure the new mag tube hangers are actually rotary dovetails like the originals/Ubertis. Theres some evidence they are soldered in place. You can of course source a mag tube hanger if need be, but at additional cost. You'll also need to inlet your round forend to match the octagon. Maybe just name that gun "Ringer" and run it! Good luck!

I had a ringed barrel Browning B92 (Miroku) that shot just fine with the ring... I eventually re-barreled it, but it ran for a long time with the ring shooting cowboy loads. Something to consider. I've not had any barrels out of my current Mirokus, but I can tell you all of the screws are sized and threaded to the same pitch as Ubertis, which would lead me to believe there is a good chance the barrel is the same.

Are you actually going to spend the money and try this or are just bored and trolling? Have you bought the mold? Cast the slugs? You should start with loading some ammo. The factory bead is sufficient with the scallop on the rear of the gun to start. THEN, when you have actually shot it, you can figure out the height necessary to get point of impact near point of aim for the load you end up with and then purchase sights from a place like Brownells. The slugs you reference specifically state not for choked guns, assuming you don't have any choke in yours, you simply load them like a black powder shotshell. My rendition of the 70-150 will hold more BP that you can possibly burn in a 20" barrel. I suspect somewhere in the neighborhood of 100 grains will get you the most velocity for the least waste, depending on you lube wads and seating depth. Getting a snug fit in brass cases can problematic if you don't have dies..... They get big though. Lastly, sarcasm isn't go to help your cause here KLW. Either take the reasonable suggestions to your question to heart, share your progress and ignore the rest of the trolls, or noone will help you.

Just a heads up. Verify your extractor pin size before ordering extractors from Taylors parts department. They're shipping extractors that have a 5/64" hole in them, I have yet to see a bolt with that size pin hole, all I've seen are 1/16", but not having any newer generation Uberti 73's on hand, I can can only surmise they made a change. When I called, Taylors doesn't know anything about a running change, and when I asked if I was stuck with these, the answer was yes. Maybe I can fit them to a Miroku, they have a larger pin For those that are going to tell me about the aftermarket ones available, I know and I appreciate that, however my application doesn't require the more expensive aftermarket part.

I'll take 'em. PM inbound.

I received a PM from "handofgod1" who joined the Wire this monday. His message: "Hello contact Gary in Kentucky he has Dillion 1050 for sale... garyhosmer.south@gmail.com" A search of that email brings up multiple possible scams on WTB posts in the gun community. Buyer beware.

I received a PM from "handofgod1" who joined the Wire this monday. His message: "Hello contact Gary in Kentucky he has Dillion 1050 for sale... garyhosmer.south@gmail.com" A search of that email brings up multiple possible scams on WTB posts in the gun community. Buyer beware.

I prefer the Ammobot, but yeah, automation!!

There's a thought! Or large and small primers

I appreciate the people that have taken the time to make offers and those that have given me leads on one. However, I should of been more specific in my original post, I do apologize. To clarify, I'm not interested in paying a few hundred dollars less than I can get a new, improved one (the 1100) for, with a 2 year warranty. For reference, some careful online shopping can net me one of those for a little over $1800. If you need $1500 or more for your (probably several year old) 1050 that you most likely bought when they were $16-1700(or less) and aren't offering shipping included in that price and/or don't have extra toolheads/changeovers or some other enticing feature(s), we're just wasting each others time. Yes, it would be simpler for me to say I'll pay up to "X amount", however owners of these machines typically have extra "stuff" and may want to sell as a package that I may be interested in, and may be worth more than "X". Still looking, thank you.

Still looking!

My 87 is named Kindness. I kill the targets with Kindness. I'm currently shooting what was my backup 87 tho, so I suppose something different is in order. Or I number them like Widder, 'cause there are others in the safe.

Can't get you to belly up and get one, soooo....

If anybody has a 1050 they'd like to move off their bench, please PM with the details and price. Super or RL. Thanks!