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Need help with garage door


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I had a moment of applied stupidity today.  I had removed one track of the garage door to get clearance for another project.

I left the opener plugged in, and it got triggered while one side of door was unsupported.  I got the door back on its track, but now it will not close all the way.

It goes down to about a 16" opening and then reverses.  I tried releasing the door to close it manually, but it feels like one of the cables is holding it at the 16" point.

Is there some safety device that was set by operating with an unequal load on the springs?  Or is it a case of "call a professional you big dummy!"

Thanks,

Duffield

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Sounds like you got the springs out of whack.  Have a pro work on the springs.  You can get hurt very easily working on them if you don't know what you're doing.

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Call a garage door company, don’t take the risk of serious injury! 

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1 hour ago, sassnetguy50 said:

Springs unwind, not wind themselves stiffer.  Can you push the door past that 16" stopping point manually?  Does it stay there or spring back up?

I can't  get it past that stopping point but haven't  pushed very hard. It stays there, doesn't  spring back.

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“AIN’T BEA!! CALL THE MAN!!!” :rolleyes:

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Make sure the opener is disengaged and try full travel. If it is fine without the opener, your setpoints are wonky. If it has to do with the springs, I'm out. Been there.

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Springs are dangerous, do not mess with them.

 

But if at any point you disconnected the door from the chain, you might have reconnected at a different point.

 

First read the manual for your system. Then if looks like this is what happened, disconnect from the chain again and lower the door. With the chain still disconnected, and if the instructions call for this as calibration, run the door opener "down" until it stops. Reconnect the chain drive.

 

I'll repeat the key part: Read the documentation for your door! anything and everything in this thread depends on it matching what you have in your garage.

 

But if this does not make sense or does not match the instructions in your documentation, call an expert. Also if the tracks are no longer properly aligned, getting them right is a bit of an art; a $100 service call to have the door right may be a bargain.

 

My door also has an optical sensor. Anything blocking the sensor causes the door to reverse when closing (some older doors with sensors would just stop, and not reverse). If the sensors are not aligned to each other, the system thinks there is a block. So this is about the only other  thing worth checking before opening your wallet.

 

And if there is a good likelihood of having to call for and pay a skilled person, don't put in a lot more effort. Costs tend to go up as you work on it yourself more and more.

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Ehhh

 

It's all fun and games until someone loses an arm, then it one armed fun and game.

 

Seriously, I'm with the others if it's a spring...get a professional and observe what they do...you'll see that you didn't have the proper tools or the experience to do the job correctly, no offence meant.

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3 hours ago, Duffield, SASS #23454 said:

I can't  get it past that stopping point but haven't  pushed very hard. It stays there, doesn't  spring back.

Sounds like the door is binding do to alignment,  not hanging on cable tension.  Double check your track is square, top to bottom.  Then check it is square to the frame.  Then check everything else, if the track alignment is good, something probably bent when the door cycled unsupported.  Track, track brackets, rollers, hinges, door panels, a lot of moving parts have to line up just right.  

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When disconnected, move manually and observe where it is binding. Be sure the cable isn't caught on a bolt or twisted under itself.

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Dumb question: Did you pull the manual release, do some work then reset the manual release?

It could be going to the chain’s limit and stopping because the manual release is in the wrong place. Guess how I know….

 

If it isn’t that, call a pro, please  :)

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2 hours ago, Eyesa Horg said:

When disconnected, move manually and observe where it is binding. Be sure the cable isn't caught on a bolt or twisted under itself.

The cable was catching on a bolt.

When it was properly  routed the door started working again.

Thanks to everyone who has helped with this problem.

And if it had been a problem with the  springe I would have called a professional. 

 

Duffield

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