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Jeweling hammers and triggers


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I seem to have a lot of Ruger single action pistols that don't have any jeweling on the hammers and triggers.  I'd like to learn how to do this.  What do you use in the drill press?  I've seen Youtube videos using Cratex sticks and valve grinding compound on wooden dowel rods.  Most of the Youtube videos are about jeweling rifle bolts.  I don't mind spending the money on the right tool.  I just don't know what the right tool is for making the swirls.

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Howdy Bob,

 

Folks have all kinds of tastes. To each his own. That being said, I must admit that "jeweling" as it's called is appropriate on the dash of a hot rod, I really don't like to see it on a firearm. Especially an old timey guns like we use. It should not be allowed on any gun used for Classic Cowboy. Those may be fighting words, but I'll stick by them.

 

However, I wish you well in your quest. A drill press and a vise that can be precisely moved in two directions would do the trick. Practice on something that won't be seen. I think that the process is supposed to allow the part to carry lubricant better.

 

Good luck,

Rev. Chase

 

 

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I simply used a drill press adapter for my Dremel and used a small wire brush.  It doesn't take much.  The round barrel is much more difficult to get great results, vs. a flat piece.   I've done the hammers & guides inside my Winchester mdl 94s,  and both hammer & trigger on this 1911 as well as the chamber as viewed thru the port.  After rebluing, it really pops!

DSCN1037.thumb.JPG.fc8a466373e9236b54da73f23f8e1442.JPG

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I use the jeweling kit for Brownells.  

 

080-558-101MB 
DELUXE ENGINE TURNING KIT
 I then located a quality X and Y axis mill vice to use on my drill press.   The cheaper X Y vise from Harbor Freight was too sloppy for me.  

And yes, practice on some general flat metals to get your spacing perfected. 
 

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35 minutes ago, Reverend P. Babcock Chase said:

Howdy Bob,

 

Folks have all kinds of tastes. To each his own. That being said, I must admit that "jeweling" as it's called is appropriate on the dash of a hot rod, I really don't like to see it on a firearm. Especially an old timey guns like we use. It should not be allowed on any gun used for Classic Cowboy. Those may be fighting words, but I'll stick by them.

 

However, I wish you well in your quest. A drill press and a vise that can be precisely moved in two directions would do the trick. Practice on something that won't be seen. I think that the process is supposed to allow the part to carry lubricant better.

 

Good luck,

Rev. Chase

 

 

Well, if you don't like to see it on firearms, maybe Badlands Bob can buy you some blinders?

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59 minutes ago, Reverend P. Babcock Chase said:

Howdy Bob,

 

Folks have all kinds of tastes. To each his own. That being said, I must admit that "jeweling" as it's called is appropriate on the dash of a hot rod, I really don't like to see it on a firearm. Especially an old timey guns like we use. It should not be allowed on any gun used for Classic Cowboy. Those may be fighting words, but I'll stick by them.

 

However, I wish you well in your quest. A drill press and a vise that can be precisely moved in two directions would do the trick. Practice on something that won't be seen. I think that the process is supposed to allow the part to carry lubricant better.

 

Good luck,

Rev. Chase

 

 

I agree with you, but everyone has their own taste.  Certainly never see it on original guns.  I seem to mostly see it on Ruger hammers, but then those aren't old west guns, anyway. :)

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I've got a drill press, 4" vice and an x y axis table for the drill press.  I even made a wooden jig to hold the hammer securely while doing the procedure.  I just need to figure out what to chuck up in the drill press.  I was just going to do the sides of the hammer and trigger so I'm only dealing with flat surfaces.  Nothing complicated like trying to go around a rifle bolt.

 

P.S.  Sorry Rev. Chase but shiny guns shoot better.

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17 minutes ago, Badlands Bob #61228 said:

I've got a drill press, 4" vice and an x y axis table for the drill press.  I even made a wooden jig to hold the hammer securely while doing the procedure.  I just need to figure out what to chuck up in the drill press.  I was just going to do the sides of the hammer and trigger so I'm only dealing with flat surfaces.  Nothing complicated like trying to go around a rifle bolt.

 

P.S.  Sorry Rev. Chase but shiny guns shoot better.

Once you get them hammers all dolled up make sure to seal up the surface you just jeweled by shooting a large number of rounds of Pyrodex black powder through them shiny guns and leave them set outside your basement door for about a week.  Like you said, shiny guns shoot better and that aroma of black powder will put a fine coating over the jeweling to seal up the worked metal.  :D

 

Kajun

 

 

Edited by Krazy Kajun
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1 minute ago, Captain Bill Burt said:

I’m sure your Pard @Krazy Kajunwould be happy to lend you some of his shootin irons to practice on!

I sure do have some shootin irons he can practice on, just make sure you bring Shootin' Sharyn's main match and backup pistols to River Bend on Saturday so Evil Bob can get them to practice on! :lol:

 

Kajun

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3 minutes ago, Captain Bill Burt said:

I’m sure your Pard @Krazy Kajunwould be happy to lend you some of his shootin irons to practice on!

I figure once I get this perfected, he'll be standing at my shop door with a whole box full of parts.

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These are the brushes I have used on my drill press. I manually held and moved the parts around because I found parts like the 73 lever and vaquero triggers and hammers are to difficult to get set into a X-Y vice and it really only takes a touch to get the marking to take. If I were doing a large or long straight piece then I would definitely clamp it to keep the lines straight.

 

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1006387431

 

My buddy uses these for larger pieces and if I were doing a bigger piece this is what I'd go with.

 

Brownell's 190-036-002WB

 

Good luck with it, It's not that difficult.

 

JEL 

jeweling.jpg

Edited by John E. Law
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Ok, I just ordered a 3/16" Cratex rod and a set of engine turning brushes from Brownell's.  I'll pick up some abrasive valve lapping compound at the local auto parts store for the brushes.  I'm hoping the Cratex rod will work because it looks like it will be the easiest and most precise method, but we'll see.  

 

I think I solved the holding issue.  I built a wooden jig that holds the small part with one screw and a wing nut.  Won't damage the part and seems to hold the part pretty firmly.  There's not much torque on the part so it should hold.  I just want to be able to hold it stationary for consistency.

 

I guess I could practice on some of the wife's stainless steel pots.   

IMG_3170.jpg

IMG_3169.jpg

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49 minutes ago, Badlands Bob #61228 said:

Ok, I just ordered a 3/16" Cratex rod and a set of engine turning brushes from Brownell's.  I'll pick up some abrasive valve lapping compound at the local auto parts store for the brushes.  I'm hoping the Cratex rod will work because it looks like it will be the easiest and most precise method, but we'll see.  

 

I think I solved the holding issue.  I built a wooden jig that holds the small part with one screw and a wing nut.  Won't damage the part and seems to hold the part pretty firmly.  There's not much torque on the part so it should hold.  I just want to be able to hold it stationary for consistency.

 

I guess I could practice on some of the wife's stainless steel pots.   

IMG_3170.jpg

IMG_3169.jpg

 

 

Send pics after you practice on the pots.

 

JEL

 

Oh, and that's the pictures of you not the pots. We want to see all of the injuries you received from the beating you're guaranteed to get. :P

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First time I tried “jeweling”, I put a pencil in a collet in a Bridgeport mill and put 1200 grit lapping compound on the eraser. Kinda like homemade cratex. Worked great. 

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20 hours ago, Badlands Bob #61228 said:

I seem to have a lot of Ruger single action pistols that don't have any jeweling on the hammers and triggers.  I'd like to learn how to do this.  What do you use in the drill press?  I've seen Youtube videos using Cratex sticks and valve grinding compound on wooden dowel rods.  Most of the Youtube videos are about jeweling rifle bolts.  I don't mind spending the money on the right tool.  I just don't know what the right tool is for making the swirls.

Well you already shoot GF and I know you got a Marlin rifle in .45 colt and with the jeweling of your guns you'll be all ready to shoot Prairie Pimp.  Just place a call to Koda Joe, I'm sure he'll have some matching chaps that he'd part with. Of course you'd hafta do something about that old hat you wear, maybe weave in some rhinestones and such and get ya some pointy toed boots.  Heck, with them new boots you could kill roaches in corners too!  Yep, I can just see it now at the SE Regional, ole Badlands Bob, "king" of the prairie pimps! :D

 

(No thanks needed Evil Bob, that's what friends are for!)

 

Kajun

Edited by Krazy Kajun
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Good luck on your project Bob.  I happen to really like the looks of jeweling especially on hammers, triggers, and levers.  The port as Griff did on that "weird gun" looks sharp too.  I have admired jeweling done by Jimmy Spur and Lefty Wheeler, also often that of Morgan & Jason (the Boomsticks).  Like you, I would like to able to do this myself.  I have the drill press but I think, as mentioned, a precision mill vise with multi-directional sliding is key to ease, quality,  and time.  Looks like with your Brownells order, you will be ready for KK and CB's tests runs.

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1 hour ago, KingSnake said:

First time I tried “jeweling”, I put a pencil in a collet in a Bridgeport mill and put 1200 grit lapping compound on the eraser. Kinda like homemade cratex. Worked great. 

Now that's creative.

 

Love it!

 

JEL

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8 minutes ago, Krazy Kajun said:

Well you already shoot GF and I know you got a Marlin rifle in .45 colt and with the jeweling of your guns you'll be all ready to shoot Prairie Pimp.  Just place a call to Koda Joe, I'm sure he'll have some matching chaps that he'd part with. Of course you'd hafta do something about that old hat you wear, maybe weave in some rhinestones and such and get ya some pointy toed boots.  Heck, with them new boots you could kill roaches in corners too!  Yep, I can just see it now at the SE Regional, ole Badlands Bob, "king" of the prairie pimps! :D

 

(No thanks needed Evil Bob, that's what friends are for!)

 

Kajun

Yes, definitely need to borrow a pair of Koda's chaps to use while working on the mill.  He will have plenty to choose from.

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9 minutes ago, Krazy Kajun said:

Well you already shoot GF and I know you got a Marlin rifle in .45 colt and with the jeweling of your guns you'll be all ready to shoot Prairie Pimp.  Just place a call to Koda Joe, I'm sure he'll have some matching chaps that he'd part with. Of course you'd hafta do something about that old hat you wear, maybe weave in some rhinestones and such and get ya some pointy toed boots.  Heck, with them new boots you could kill roaches in corners too!  Yep, I can just see it now at the SE Regional, ole Badlands Bob, "king" of the prairie pimps! :D

 

(No thanks needed Evil Bob, that's what friends are for!)

 

Kajun

Official SASS rules regarding Prairie Pimp Category Costuming example:

 

JEL

POTY.PNG

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1 hour ago, KingSnake said:

First time I tried “jeweling”, I put a pencil in a collet in a Bridgeport mill and put 1200 grit lapping compound on the eraser. Kinda like homemade cratex. Worked great. 

I read about the pencil eraser method.  I must have cheap pencils because mine didn't last long enough to get more than a few inches.  Probably Chinese pencils.   I also want to make the jeweling smaller than a pencil eraser.

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20 hours ago, Badlands Bob #61228 said:

I seem to have a lot of Ruger single action pistols that don't have any jeweling on the hammers and triggers.  I'd like to learn how to do this.  What do you use in the drill press?  I've seen Youtube videos using Cratex sticks and valve grinding compound on wooden dowel rods.  Most of the Youtube videos are about jeweling rifle bolts.  I don't mind spending the money on the right tool.  I just don't know what the right tool is for making the swirls.

Bob. Just get you a bottle of Gorilla Glue and a bag of diamonds and stick then all over the hammers.  Don’t even have to remove them from the frames.  

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1 hour ago, Cassalong Hopidy said:

Bob. Just get you a bottle of Gorilla Glue and a bag of diamonds and stick then all over the hammers.  Don’t even have to remove them from the frames.  

Well, look who showed up full of advise.  My old friend Cass.  

 

Note to self:  Never take advise from your competition.

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2 hours ago, Billy Boots, # 20282 LTG-Regulator said:

Good luck on your project Bob.  I happen to really like the looks of jeweling especially on hammers, triggers, and levers.  The port as Griff did on that "weird gun" looks sharp too.  I have admired jeweling done by Jimmy Spur and Lefty Wheeler, also often that of Morgan & Jason (the Boomsticks).  Like you, I would like to able to do this myself.  I have the drill press but I think, as mentioned, a precision mill vise with multi-directional sliding is key to ease, quality,  and time.  Looks like with your Brownells order, you will be ready for KK and CB's tests runs.

Bob is a good Pard, but if he comes around my guns looking to do any jeweling his ‘jewels’ may get an unfriendly bump or two.

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I have two different flavors of engine turning compound from Brownells if you would like to borrow it.

 

The key is to get the parts highly polished.

 

I'm guessing you'll be trimming at least another second per stage after jeweling :P

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40 minutes ago, Yank_MaChain said:

I have two different flavors of engine turning compound from Brownells if you would like to borrow it.

 

The key is to get the parts highly polished.

 

I'm guessing you'll be trimming at least another second per stage after jeweling :P

So you're saying we'll be able to retire the sundial?

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