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Reverend P. Babcock Chase

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Everything posted by Reverend P. Babcock Chase

  1. Howdy TFJ, I second Citri-strip. Then I recommend TruOil. Lightly scuff with 400 grit between coats, then a final buff with 0000 steel wool. If done right with patience, an almost glass-like finish can be achieved. Or, just a couple of coats of oil to let the grain texture show. Rev. Chase
  2. More importantly, if what we do is a sport, does that make us athletes? Rev. Chase
  3. hey Bart Slade, I shoot Classic Cowboy and in my neck of the woods I always win my category (being the only cowboy with the sense of history, unmatched style and general elan.) Rev Chase
  4. Abilene is right (again?). If absolute light weight is desired, a 92 is a good choice if slicked up (94's don't seem a good choice in pistol calibers). In defense of a 66 carbine, the extra weight is between the hands not out front. Rev. Chase
  5. I failed to point out the the 66's I shoot are carbines. They are much lighter than a Henry. My opinion is that 66 or 73 carbines are the best choice for our game. I know that Marlins are popular but, I've never warmed up to them (I have a 94 carbine and it's a good gun.) As a side note, regardless of the gun, I feel like a carbine buttplate is a much better choice for rapid fire that the crescent type, although the crescent style is good for more deliberate shooting. Rev. Chase
  6. Unofficial or not, that's just what we need - another category. What about senior steam punk? Classic steam punk? Ladies (I know) steam punk? I'm just saying. Rev. Chase
  7. I shoot a 66. I always lusted after a 60 until I picked up another shooter's 60. I was surprised by how much the thing weighed. Between the weight and "Henry hop" decided that I would never want one for our game. That said, they are very cool. Thinking about it, I sometimes shoot an ornery 87 shotgun (I don't know why - Style Points?). Maybe I need to rethink the whole 60 deal. Rev. Chase
  8. In reply to Old Man, I don't believe that the measure is an old Ideal. I believe that measure had a cast in place powder hopper that was rectangular. I think the Ideal became the Lyman No. 5 (hence the next model being the 55). Rev. Chase
  9. I'm petty sure that's not a Lyman. The proportions are off. Herters, Old Pacific? Rev. Chase
  10. Howdy alll, One can clearly see from Nostrum's photo the "doll's head" shown is clearly part of the lock up of the gun. Some don't "key" into the receiver but have a horizontal cut that is engaged by the opening lever when the action is closed. I would never remove that part of the gun as every one that I have seen is an integral part of the lock up. I have some shotguns that have a "rib extension" or doll's head and some that don't. I have broken the edges of the doll's head to keep shells from catching on the edges. Rather than risking the integrity of the gun's lock up, I would suggest more practice or getting another shotgun (always a good idea). Rev. Chase
  11. Howdy All, Bought a pair of USFA Rodeos years ago in the matte finish. I couldn't abide the flat black finish that was never on the old sixguns. I got a tube of Flitz polish and went at them. Paid attention to where they would have worn more. I ended up with a pair of nice grey "antique" looking guns. They looked old, but not abused. I showed them to the President of USFA and, lo and behold, they stared to finish one of their model similarly. By the way, I never got and royalties from them. Rev. Chase
  12. Howdy Cholla, I only shoot CC or Duelist and I can't imagine slip hammering with just one hand. Never seen it, but I'd guess that the shooter would have to have pretty large hands and a very strong grip. By the way, I often shoot Schofields and with that design I don't believe that slip hammering is even possible. That's all I understand about what I know about that. Rev. Chase
  13. I bet that will be a pretty piece of walnut once you get it finished. If you are going right to Tru-Oil, you might want to thin it out for the first two applications to get deeper penetration. Rev. Chase
  14. It sort of sounds like the "fly" in the tumbler (#19) is stuck or was attached to the tumbler with the screw you found. I don't know for sure about rollers, but normally set triggers work because the is this small item in the tumbler that swivels to allow the sear to ride over the half cock notch when the set trigger is used. It sounds like your sear is dropping into the half cock. Look around inside the gun or on the hammer (and on the floor) to see if the "fly" has come adrift. Normally they look like a small triangle that sits right by the half cock notch.
  15. Just did my (non supreme) Stoeger. Citristrip, 2 coats of Teak Oil to penetrate, 400 grip sand, 2 coats of Tru-Oil each followed by 400 grit sand, 3 coats of Tru-Oil with 4 ought steel wool, final coat of microcrystalline wax. I splintered the forend and eliminated the checkering. Reshaped the pistol grip to a rounded knob but avoided touching the checkering. Came out darn near like a fine, high end shotgun. Rev. Chase
  16. Howdy Parson, Just so there is no confusion, I believe that the actual name of the choke is "Cutts". Rev. Chase
  17. I have a very old '51 conversion that has a .38 S&W cylinder. It didn't shoot factory ammo worth a damn. Tried .38 HB lead bullets. With the right load (to expand the base), it shoots fine for cowboy range. Never shot it at distance. Accuracy only comes in when the load is stout enough to expand the base. Rev. Chase
  18. I reload for all my sixguns and rifles, but never done shot shells. My plan is to use Win AA shells, waa12sl wads, Amer. Select powder, but primers are an open question. Handbooks say use win 209 primers and caution against other primers. I'm worried that I will have trouble finding Win 209's. Does any one have experience switching primers. Is it definitely a problem? I have plenty of powder. Thoughts? This is all new to me. Rev. Chase
  19. Howdy Rip' I have shot for many years at a number of clubs and have never seen anyone chided or maligned for their outfits. That said, I shoot Classic Cowboy or duelist and am a bug about the clothing and accessories. I even had an unofficial store selling shirts, neckware and other items to unsuspecting cowboys for a while. I like all the cowboys to look good and am happy to answer questions about clothing, accessories, etc. - when asked. When asked I begin by saying "no ball caps, sneakers or short sleeved shirts. hats and cowboy boot are not required. Other than that have fun. Rev. Chase
  20. Howdy Average, I'll take the MEC Jr. for $150 + shipping. Please pm me so we can sort out payment, etc. Thanks Rev. Chase
  21. Great photo Burp. I have one of me at about the same age with my capgun in my right hand (standing next to my pedal tractor). Rev Chase
  22. Howdy Debaters (and Master Debaters), To be frank, I shoot CC or Duelist because that just seems the right way to shoot a sixgun. I'm slow but I'm OK with that because I'm not as slow as when I started. Most of the time I win CC (because I'm the only one in the category.) I really only have to beat myself. But to the important point of this discussion: Whether one- or two-handed, the folks of CAS are some of the friendliest, most giving and most helpful people I've ever met. If I couldn't shoot I might hang out at shoots just for the camaraderie. If someone wants to show up, help set up and tear down, pick brass and count misses while wearing jeans and straw hat, I and nobody I know cares how many hands they use as long as they are safe. Cordially, Rev. Chase
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