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Reverend P. Babcock Chase

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  1. Howdy Fallon, If you're going to mix brass like that you have to expect these illicit pairings. I suggest that you throw a couple of shot shells in with the brass. That way you can be sure that they get to the alter. Rev. Chase Not approved to perform weddings in Connecticut
  2. Howdy Rooster, I'm a terrible note taker/keeper. The only thing that I have found that works for me is to record all the appropriate info on the target I've shot and keep it in a target file in my reloading area. Rev. Chase
  3. I believe that the original pair of chinks was made for Danny Devito's first role in a western. Rev. Chase
  4. Howdy H.K. it's very generous of you to risk a middle third result for this worthwhile experiment. Based on posts here over time, I'm pretty sure we know what the betting is. This is you chance to add to the SASS knowledge base. We await your results and now and forever must consider you a scientist. Rev. Chase
  5. Howdy Quiet, Google "John Wayne Knot". I takes some practice and I too have to relearn it from time to time. When I can, I leave it tied and slip over my head. Hey if it was good enough for the Duke that's all I need to know. Rev. Chase
  6. Wow, You guys are terrific. The above should get me started. Thanks. Rev. Chase
  7. Thanks Fellas, It's sounding like Titewad is what I'm looking for. That and a new MEC bushing or two. Rev. Chase
  8. Howdy Fellas, That's real helpful. I think it gets me close to where I need to be. Hey OLG, don't have any Unique, In fact, all I have is American Select (for .45 Colt & .38), dwindling Clays (Shotshell) and 4198 (45/70 & 30/30 plus others. Never used Unique, but I know that it's popular. Rev. Chase
  9. Howdy Fellers, Since we all are still having to make do with powders that we can find, I was wondering if any of our cowpokes are using Hodgdon's Titewad for their 12 ga. loads? Specifically in Rem.STS or Win. AA hulls? If you're willing to get really finite, what MEC powder bushing are you using for 7/8th loads? Rev. Chase
  10. Howdy Sarcasm, To be period correct, shotgun chaps would be proper I believe. I would choose the zipper versions (not really correct) If the zipper is hidden. The step in kind are a pain if you have to take your boots off to put them on. Batwings and big hats are from a later period. you'll see them in '30s and '40s westerns. They look cool and nobody will complain if you like that look. I have a set of chinks and that may be a good compromise. I don't wear them when it's hot. Rev. Chase
  11. Howdy Copper, It all depends on how hard you pull the trigger. Rev. Chase
  12. Howdy Snake, Just a thought. My main match hammer double is an old Rossi. I'm very happy with it now that I down load my 12 ga. shells. It's very light and it can really kick with even fairly light factory loads. My point (finally) is don't get carried away with getting a really light shotgun unless you plan on down loading your own shells. My back up hammer gun is Turkish Liberty two. It's much heavier and much more pleasant to shoot with factory loads. You may ask why it is not my main gun. Simply put the hammer springs have never been addressed (yet) so it's harder to cock, but otherwise it seems to be a well made gun. For what it's worth, Rev. Chase
  13. Howdy Slow, I hope this helps. First, there is a lot of misunderstanding about how double set triggers are supposed to work. They are a separate spring loaded system that trips the lock's sear to drop the hammer. Most double set triggers have two adjustment screws. One that is the most accessible (I think it's between the two triggers. Too lazy to go down and open the safe.) is for adjusting the engagement of the set trigger sear of the front trigger. This is often mistaken for a weight adjustment. It is not! I controls how much the rear trigger sear engages the front trigger. It can often be adjusted to the point where the there triggers won't "set" if turned in too much. Now look closely behind the rear trigger. There should be another screw there. It tensions the rear trigger spring. That spring powers the rear trigger to kick up and release the sear that drops the hammer. rotating this screw clockwise should reduce the tension on the rear trigger spring. You want the tension to just be enough to trip the sear in the lock when the front trigger is pressed. The tension on the rear trigger spring is often excessive on many guns from the factory. Once the tension on the rear trigger spring is set (reduced) to the lightest it can be and still reliably trip the hammer sear and drop the hammer, the front screw can be used to adjust the trigger sear engagement. Care should be taken to allow a light let off, but not truly "hair" trigger. Adjust to a crisp release, be be sure that some pressure is required. The above is my understanding of how these things work. I can't try your rifle and don't have direct experience with an IAB rifle so proceed at your own risk or seek a qualified gunsmith. I have no responsibility for you situation. This message will self destruct in 10 seconds. Rev. Chase
  14. Howdy Quiet, I would recommend against brass plated steel tacks. I have not put tacks one any of my guns, but I have noticed where the brass plating has worn away on furniture and other decorative situations. If this were to happen ;you would be faced with the shame of steel tacks or would be forced to remove them and then fill the holes with real brass tacks anyway. If it were me, I'd hold off until I could fine a source for the real thing. Plus one for pre drilling the holes and gluing rather than hammering, especially with real brass tacks. That's just my opinion, but it's your rifle. Rev. Chase
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