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Powder for break style pocket pistol


Nota John, SASS #51089L

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Hello Pards,

Have been thinking to use an H&R.32 S&W break style pocket pistol that was my grandfather's. I understand that one should not use smokeless loads in these pistols. Being lazy, what is the best BP sub for easy cleanup? Please advise. Thanks in advance. Nots

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Triple 7 is a little friskier than BP. About 15% from what I've read. I like APP in my pocket pistols. Plenty if smoke, can use any bullet lube.

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Triple 7 is a little friskier than BP. About 15% from what I've read. I like APP in my pocket pistols. Plenty if smoke, can use any bullet lube.

+1

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Here I'm shooting an old Iver Johnson 38 S&W loaded with BlackMZ.

 

Since the gun was a smokless version of the gun I went to loads with Unique published in the Lyman manual. The BlackMZ loads tended to cause the cylinder to bind up after a couple of cylinders full were fired. Being double action only, that wasn't working too well.

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Hello Pards,

Have been thinking to use an H&R.32 S&W break style pocket pistol that was my grandfather's. I understand that one should not use smokeless loads in these pistols. Being lazy, what is the best BP sub for easy cleanup? Please advise. Thanks in advance. Nots

Hopefully someone will be able to confirm but I believe that small of a caliber can be shot with smokeless rounds. I recently picked one up in 38 S&W and shot it with smokeless rounds. I don't know 32, but 38 S&W rounds are pretty low pressure. It's a really neat gun isn't it?

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When was this gun made?

Are you sure it's BP only?

If it is-Use REAL BP in 3F, fill the case so when you seat the bullet you compress the powder 1/32-1/16 of an inch. Firm crimp.

OLG

3 dates on top of barrel rib; Oct .4"87 Apr.2"95 Apr 7"96 . Don't know if BP or Smokeless version. Have shot it many years ago with Winchester smokeless loads, 20 rounds, no damage, but I understand one should only use BP loads. Please advise. Thanks Nota

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I have an H&R in .38S&W I only shoot ffg in it now. Works fine. When I first got it, I used factory cartridges. After shooting it for several months, something inside broke. Don't know what caused it or what broke, but when I got it back, I've used nothing but BP.

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Here I'm shooting an old Iver Johnson 38 S&W loaded with BlackMZ.

 

Since the gun was a smokless version of the gun I went to loads with Unique published in the Lyman manual. The BlackMZ loads tended to cause the cylinder to bind up after a couple of cylinders full were fired. Being double action only, that wasn't working too well.

 

I think I learned something else here.....

How much lead do you recover from them tires?

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If it has a April 96 pat stamp on it, then you know it was made at least in 96 or later. But that doesn't mean it is proofed for smokeless. H&R made the switch in 1905 and Iver Johnson in 1909. Colt's factory guarantee for their SAA didn't start for smokeless until 1900, and SW about the same time. Many guns made from the late 1880s were made of a mild steel (transitional), but they were not proofed for smokeless. The 1893 Winchester was recalled and replaced with the 1897 mainly because the 1893 was only proofed for BP use. If you want to be safe... don't shoot any Smokeless powder in the early guns, especially the break tops. The later breaktops are OK for a light charge of something like Unique, but I wouldn't shoot a fast powder in them. JMHO

 

Snakebite

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