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73 mainspring,hammer, replacement


irish ike, SASS #43615

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i have a 73 that I purchased from a good smith race ready about 7 years ago. I am now getting light strikes on a fairly regular basis. The current spring is a ground original and has woken well. I've tightened the adjusting screw as far as it will go.

 

So the question is, I f you were going to buy a replacement spring which one would you buy and why? The reason I ask is there are about 4 different versions or set-ups ranging from $150 to $30 from the various smiths out there.

Thanks in advance

Ike

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I've tried most of them, and have gone back to The Smith Shop mainsprings. Seems to hold tension well, moderately light, and faster than some of the other more complicated mechanisms.

 

Good luck, GJ

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Try loosening the tension screw and tightening the screw at the end of the hammer spring. After you make sure the end of spring is tight, then retighten the tension screw.

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I prefer the coil spring mod that Lassiter did to my 45lc 73. If it gets lite which hasn't happened in 10 years almost I can put another coils spring that is the correct wire size number of coils and length Initial. Now there are drop in kits to do the same.

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If you have a grounded spring, more likely it's now getting fatigued.

I found that out it will work for 6-8 rounds, gets a little warm and then does not have enough oomph to keep going, also grinding a spring messes with the tension, and unless you get the hardness right again it wears out.,

We here in Oklahoma our smith from J&J Gunsmithing are having springs made from an OK spring works owned by 'gun nuts'. They know what is all about.

The new main spring we have is great, and very light, but is made still to set of CCI primers too.

A number of us have them in our rifles and they work great, if you would like to try one, I can get one out to you, you won't be disappointed.

Price is $33.00 plus shipping.

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Try loosening the tension screw and tightening the screw at the end of the hammer spring. After you make sure the end of spring is tight, then retighten the tension screw.

 

That's backwards.

To adjust, back both front/strain screw and rear hammer spring screw off, then tighten the rear hammer spring screw back down . Once it bottoms out loosen it about a half turn or so. Now you can use the front/strain screw to lift the spring up to add tension. If the rear is fully tight you won't have much range of adjustment on the front/strain screw.

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Irish Ike, it mite not be your main spring. Could be your firing pin is becoming blunted. Depends on what youve got in there.

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Thanks for all of the responses. I ordered an engineered flat spring so we'll see. I'm also going to take the firing pin out and clean the bolt and pin. I'm thinking maybe with all the BP and cleaning I do I might have some buildup inside the bolt, stopping the firing pin short?

Ike

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Thanks for all of the responses. I ordered an engineered flat spring so we'll see. I'm also going to take the firing pin out and clean the bolt and pin. I'm thinking maybe with all the BP and cleaning I do I might have some buildup inside the bolt, stopping the firing pin short?

Ike

Especially if shooting .45 Colt cartridge. Somewhat with .38 spl. Probably not much with a -40 caliber gun.

 

Always worth cleaning the FP, spring and bore at least once a year. While you are at it, clean the mag tube, too!

 

Good luck, GJ

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Nate; I going to try that, as I did it the way the other guy said and I still get light hits once in a while. Your way doesn't sound right but I have never found your advice to be wrong. Pretty sure your experience is better than my intuition!

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I know if one young shooter that loves his SliXSpring mainspring and his rifle appears to be quite smooth and fast.

He goes by Damascus John.

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Nate; I going to try that, as I did it the way the other guy said and I still get light hits once in a while. Your way doesn't sound right but I have never found your advice to be wrong. Pretty sure your experience is better than my intuition!

 

The original 73's,92's and 94's had countersunk hammer spring screws and the lower tang had a countersunk hole, too. This allowed the screw to slightly swivel in the hole so it could be adjusted as I discribe. Ideally you leave it somewhat loose so the strain screw can lift the spring as much as needed then you tighten the hammer screw so it doesn't loosen. Or, I use Loctite 22 on it, the soft stuff that can be unscrewed without heat.

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If you have a grounded spring, more likely it's now getting fatigued.

I found that out it will work for 6-8 rounds, gets a little warm and then does not have enough oomph to keep going, also grinding a spring messes with the tension, and unless you get the hardness right again it wears out.,

We here in Oklahoma our smith from J&J Gunsmithing are having springs made from an OK spring works owned by 'gun nuts'. They know what is all about.

The new main spring we have is great, and very light, but is made still to set of CCI primers too.

A number of us have them in our rifles and they work great, if you would like to try one, I can get one out to you, you won't be disappointed.

Price is $33.00 plus shipping.

Is that like the one I got one from RCD? It is smooth & sweet!

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