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Nate Kiowa Jones #6765

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About Nate Kiowa Jones #6765

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    6765

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    http://www.stevesgunz.com
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  1. Over the years I'v had a few of these show up. A few years back there was a trend to use down loaded lead rolled in an abrasive compound to fire lap. But, some didn't make it out and the others just stacked. If there is no bulge in the barrel (usually not with the down loaded stuff) I would just drill the lead out using a brass sleeve to protect the bore.
  2. I just make a rough cut with a band saw then square it up with a stationary belt sander. If you want a more precise cut measure the difference in thickness of the butt end and the forward end. Then use a stack of old playing cards to shim to level. Just use half the difference in cards.
  3. I found 4 on gunbroker that actually sold for $1600 to $1800
  4. Rebore is usually about the same price or less than a re-line and a lot less than relining a small dia round barrel for sure. It will be less than a worked up new barrel blank, too. Particularly if you have to do the taper to match, the dovetails and blueing. I have a barrel guy that has done several re-bores for me. Let me know if you need his info.
  5. I got a 357 in the 19.5" carbine. Stub is 16 TPI on .795+- dia. Rebore???
  6. What length are you looking for. carbine or short rifle?
  7. I may have those parts to convert it. shoot me an email here STEVE@STEVESGUNZ.COM and I'll see what I have
  8. You are mostly correct. Most have this rebounding hammer setup. ( no 1/4 cock safety) Does your's have the cross bolt safety? If it does and you cut the spring it may not be reliable. But, there were some 94's (don't know if these were before the AE) that were non rebounding and had 1/4 cock hammer safety. They are a little more forgiving cutting the spring.
  9. you are correct, but you will want to hand load .308 bullets or resize .312 bullets down to .310. The bores in the ones I rechambered were .309. If you use the .312's you will be pushing the pressure up. Not a good thing. These guns don't have locking bolts. The lockup is the end of the lever coming up under the breech bolt much like a chair is used for a door stop. Ok for 22 but not a strong setup.
  10. I still have some. steve@stevesgunz.com
  11. Doc, IIRC the Stoegers already have long cones.
  12. Not necessarily. Generally women don't have the upper body strength that men do. Again, when shouldered if the thumb of her trigger finger hand is more than 3" from her nose as in the elbow is more than 90 degree extended she will probably struggle to hold the gun up. This young lady was 11 years old when these pictures were taken. This first pic is her with one of the youth size Henry 22’s and as you can see she is still struggling to hold it up. Here she is with a 12ga Baikal SXS that is cut with a 5 degree negative pitch to about 10”LOP with a mercury recoil reducer and good sorbothane pad. Her stance isn’t that great but she is definitely in more control of the gun.
  13. Go with the comp. They don't add much weight but tend to work better than loose shot because the forward movement of the mercury offsets the recoil without adding a bunch of weight. You will want to change the angle when you cut and mount the new pad. Most shotguns are setup for arial targets. but we shoot toward the ground. What happens is the sharp angel tends to dig in and the ladies tend to drop the back end and then tend to shoot high over the targets. My rule as to how long the stocks need to be for the ladies is with the gun shouldered, the thumb of the trigger finger hand should be about 2” but not more than 3” from her nose. This allows more bend in the elbow. Anytime the elbow is extended beyond 90 degree she will have a tuff time holding the gun up.
  14. If it is an 1983 DOM it will most likely have the small diameter link pins. I don't know if any of the SS kit makers are still doing those.
  15. I have several F&W Bulldog's. They all free spin. You will find some of the Belgian made's don't free spin. I think they were patterned more like the Webley
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