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Nate Kiowa Jones #6765

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About Nate Kiowa Jones #6765

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  1. If I am going to be the victim of an ND I would much rather be shot in the foot than in the face. Muzzle down.
  2. These guns don't do well with really short 38's or really long 357m's. The optimum OAL for 66 or 73 ammo is about 1/16th to 3/32nds of an inch shorter than the OAL of the carrier. The 1860, the 66 and the 73 have a built in ammo OAL gage. Open the action, turn the gun over and lay a round in the window where the carrier rides. If it doesn't fit, it's too long. It should be about 1/16 but not more than 1/8th inch short of not fitting tight. This length works best because the 73, 66, and 60 does not have a mag cartridge stop. The front edge of the loading gate, there just behind the carrier, is the only stop. While the carrier is in the up position it's the stop. The carrier has to bring a round up to chamber while preventing the next round in the mag from coming on to the carrier. If the ammo is too short the carrier has to push the next round back into the tube as it comes up. Make your ammo long enough so that it's a shearing action as the carrier comes up. Also because we don't need extremely accurate ammo just ammo that cycles well through the gun it is perfectly legal and practical to load 38 spec brass with a bullet set out in the case to a longer than normal OAL. We use lead bullets so just crimp into the side of the lead to get the OAL you need. Stay away from any bullet shape that has driving bands or cutter like SWC. Round nose flat point is what they were designed for.
  3. Or, you could just slow the timing down some, as in take a bit more off the lifter. you will slightly increase the stroke, but it won't be as likely to break the tab off coming up too soon.
  4. Yep, the ones I have work were Pietta. Any basic colt style SAA instructions will do for you. Youtube for instance.
  5. how about a padded vise. Every gun that comes through here for work gets put in a leather padded vise. You can't work on a 92 one handed
  6. That's basically how I do it. But, you don't need a mill or lathe. You do need a long drill bit (electricians drill) about half the dia of the bullet. Wrap it in masking tape to just under the bore size leaving the first 1/2" exposed. Wrap it so that it doesn't unroll as the drill turns. If it is a single bullet one hole through it will usually allow you brass rod to push it out. If more than one bullet you may have to drill some then pound it down, drill some more, . Drill and pound until you can push it out. BTW, make sure the cylinder is out.
  7. What he said. Shooting low means the front sight is too tall. Basically pushing the barrel down. Filing some off raises the barrel/ POI
  8. I think the best option would be to replace the barrel with a new 20" barrel from VTI. All the existing front end parts will still work and you wouldn't be devaluing the gun by hack off the 24". Plus you can recoup some of the expense by selling the 24" barrel on Ebay.
  9. KISS If it has the wire type trigger/bolt spring get rid of it. They tend to take a set over time. Go back to the flat spring but get the one that is not slotted all the way into the screw hole. They tend to break at the hole.
  10. No, not unusual. Your gun has rebounding hammers. Very common on period hammer SXS's. The design allows the hammers to go fully forward as long as the trigger is pulled. But they do rebound back to a safety notch once the trigger is released. If the hammers didn't rebound they would hold the firing pin into the primers binding the action from opening. You need to know if you have enough firing pin protrusion. Action open/unloaded, while pulling the trigger lower the hammer and push it into the firing pin. The pin should protrude from the breech face at least .040' to .050". If they do, you may have loose barrels, IOW off face. Or, it could be your ammo. If you are reloading a common mistake is to over seat the primers con-caving the base of the hull. Now the primer sets too far from the pin. Same thing as off face or excessing headspace.
  11. true, but there was a fixed sight version too. I just couldn't find a picture of it.
  12. This pull pin 5 shot Iver Johnson was made as late as the the 1980 and was available in 38 spec. This top break was too.
  13. Elmers or Titebond works great. To help out on the KD's I might even put a dab on the shot before the card goes on.
  14. Ed Zachery i sent you an email. Without the gun in hand it will be hard to say. But, the first thing I would look at is the lever-link. This is the part that comes out the bottom when you work the lever to open the action. There is a cart stop on the front of it that sometimes wears down and when that happen you will get double feeds. Hope this helps.
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