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Nate Kiowa Jones #6765

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About Nate Kiowa Jones #6765

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  1. Those two springs are easily made from music wire. They have only one loop to go on the sear pin. The rest is straight wire. Amazon sell the wire for cheap. You'll need about .040" diameter wire.
  2. It sounds like you have some burs on the arbor probably around the wedge area. Are you moving it enough to clear the alignment pins there in the front of the frame? If you can clear them clamp the barrel in a padded vise. Then turn the frame clockwise by the grip. This should help knock those burs down enough to get it on off. Once you get it off you will be able to see where it was hanging.
  3. Oddly enough, I somewhat agree with Phantom. I don't find it silly I just think it is not a good tactical decision to open carry. The case that sealed it for me was a recent video where an open carry person had his gun stolen from him. The perp just snatched it and ran. Proof Open Carry is a Bad Idea I watched another video where the guy fought off the perp trying to steal his gun, or worse. (couldn't find it) I choose not to carry open. For those of you that do I pray that you are using at least a level two retention holster. (another reason I don't open carry. you have to practice with level 2 retention holster)
  4. To me making two piece grips is harder than one piece. For the Colt and Ruger you will need to drill the grip frame for a grip stabilizing pin. Notice the pin on the lower part of the trigger guard frame Most clones don't have it and will require drilling the frame and grips for it. the one piece is much easier if you just make a spacer like the one here; You just sand it to the same thickness as the grip frame then glue the three parts. Shaping and fitting is much easier on the brass grip frames. Just sand the brass too. Then polish it back. Works for stainless too. My worst experience making grips were these black water buffalo horn grips with ivory and turquoise inlays. Grinding and polishing these stank up my shop for months and it seem like it was up my nose for days.
  5. When ASM first came out with these I had a pair. That screw was there as an add on safety so they could be imported. All you need to do is back it out and put some Loctite on it. Run it back in to flush. With the hammer setting on the FP you should see about .035 to .045" FP protrusion. If you get light hits there then your headspace is off. Check the wedge. If you drive it in more and it binds up you may need to take some off the spacer. (ASM added a spacer between the cylinder and barrel)
  6. I tend to agree, with one caveat. Devices that tend to generate static are much like capacitors. They store the static until something provides a path to discharge it. If you live in a really dry area, as in low humidity and cool temp static arcs are more sever. Areas with hi humidity won't allow the static to build. It's like a shorted capacitor Hoss, where you live there on the gulf coast the other helping factor is the salty air helps conduct the static away, not allowing it to build up.
  7. FYI The soft swedged hollow base expanse to the .375 bore.
  8. If you want to convert .375/.380 bore CB's to cartridge just use swaged hollow base wad-cutter bullets. Just don't seat them flush. Let them extend out of the case so folks can see they are loaded/live ammo. .
  9. Yep, still here STEVE@STEVESGUNZ.COM 512-564-1015
  10. If by regular size you mean main match legal gun, not just another SAA then I would look to the 1851 Richards-Mason 1851 Conversion
  11. Unless the two piece firing pin is replaced with the one piece the Lever actuated trigger block is a secondary safety. The hammer can fall but the gun will not fire if the lever is even slightly down. The lever has to be fully up to lift the locking bolt in place behind the breech bolt. But, at the same time the locking bolt lifts the rear portion of the firing pin inline with the front part of the firing pin. Only then will it fire.
  12. Thanks for the reply. I can get a Rossi with the old bolt in it for $400. I could swap the bolts and probably still break even. Would it be worth the hassle in your mind? Would it cause smoothness issues in the action and would the headspace issue be something you could do? 



    1. Nate Kiowa Jones #6765

      Nate Kiowa Jones #6765

      It could cause all the above. You gotta keep in mind, Rossi has been making these guns since the 60's so the parts will vary from gun to gun year to year. Also, the bolts are caliber specific.

      As for the headspace if it ends up excessive that will require removing the barrel setting the shoulder back by one thread thickness, trimming the chamber face to the correct headspace then reaming the chamber back to spec. That job alone is $300.

    2. Stopsign32v


      I see, I would probably pass on it then. Thank you for the advice. 


      I plan to get your DVD and tune kit. The issue I'm running into with my Rossi is it is messing up the rims of my brass. I took one coil off the extractor spring and it made it much better but there is still a small mark on all of them. Would the DVD show how to get rid of this or will I have to live with it? Brass falls a foot behind me when cycling. 

    3. Nate Kiowa Jones #6765

      Nate Kiowa Jones #6765

      you mean the ejector. That's the plunger part in the face of the breech bolt. If the marks are on the rim you will want to reduce the extractor, the bar on top of the bolt. The DVD shows all of this. Use my ejector spring, too.

  13. The TTN part will work in the originals too. I still have many of the TTN parts.
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