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Nate Kiowa Jones #6765

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About Nate Kiowa Jones #6765

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  1. It's legal, but ya gotta shoot it one handed.
  2. That bent lever can result into headspace being too much. Anytime you have failure to fire particularly on a gun that has been modified, the first thing to verify is headspace and firing pin protrusion. Nowhere in your discription did you mention checking these. Without that info everything else is just a guess. Also, it's fairly common to see excessive headspace when these guns have OBD-ed
  3. I usually run 30 to 50 action dummys through the gun for function and safety checks. Then I'll run 5 to 10 live rounds of my test ammo into my bullet trap here in the shop. My test ammo is made using Remington primers. Though not as hard as CCI's they are generally harder than Wins or feds. The only time I shoot down range is if the owner request I sight the gun in for him. But, the only way to do that with any consistancy is with his ammo.
  4. Ed Zacary Good guns. I just don't care for their T bars
  5. That lever is bent in the trigger guard area. That's why it is rubbing the back of the trigger. Bent like that, the bolt doesn't go into full battery either.
  6. That's how I've done it for years. Except I use a casserole size pan. I de-prime, stand all the cases up in the pan with water about half way up the case. Using a torch I bring them to a low cherry glow and tip them over one at a time
  7. Why not check with VTI to see if they have some shorter barrels??? Not cheap but you can sell the long barrels to recoup
  8. Slug the bore, too. Some were .309. If you ream to 32 S&W with .312 bullets you might over pressure that action. I did one awhile back for a feller. Reaamed to 32 S&W and he hand loaded some cast bullets run through a 308 sizer.
  9. Don't over think it. The #1 factor in how well they shuck is how stiff the plastic is. The softer plastic hulls, be they ribbed or smooth, expand (obturate) to the chamber as does the stiff plastic. But, the difference is the softer huls don't contract like the stiffer plastic hulls do. This also effects the crimps. The stiff plastic hulls don't flare as bad. I've been at this game for almost 30 years mainly shooting in the BP catagories. earlier on I tried the all brass hulls. I even made a full length sizer for them. But if you sized them down too much or honed the chambers too muc
  10. Unless the two piece firing pin is replaced with the one piece the Lever actuated trigger block is a secondary safety. The hammer can fall but the gun will not fire if the lever is even slightly down. The lever has to be fully up to lift the locking bolt in place behind the breech bolt. But, at the same time the locking bolt lifts the rear portion of the firing pin inline with the front part of the firing pin. Only then will it fire.
  11. Thanks for the reply. I can get a Rossi with the old bolt in it for $400. I could swap the bolts and probably still break even. Would it be worth the hassle in your mind? Would it cause smoothness issues in the action and would the headspace issue be something you could do? 



    1. Nate Kiowa Jones #6765

      Nate Kiowa Jones #6765

      It could cause all the above. You gotta keep in mind, Rossi has been making these guns since the 60's so the parts will vary from gun to gun year to year. Also, the bolts are caliber specific.

      As for the headspace if it ends up excessive that will require removing the barrel setting the shoulder back by one thread thickness, trimming the chamber face to the correct headspace then reaming the chamber back to spec. That job alone is $300.

    2. Stopsign32v


      I see, I would probably pass on it then. Thank you for the advice. 


      I plan to get your DVD and tune kit. The issue I'm running into with my Rossi is it is messing up the rims of my brass. I took one coil off the extractor spring and it made it much better but there is still a small mark on all of them. Would the DVD show how to get rid of this or will I have to live with it? Brass falls a foot behind me when cycling. 

    3. Nate Kiowa Jones #6765

      Nate Kiowa Jones #6765

      you mean the ejector. That's the plunger part in the face of the breech bolt. If the marks are on the rim you will want to reduce the extractor, the bar on top of the bolt. The DVD shows all of this. Use my ejector spring, too.

  12. The TTN part will work in the originals too. I still have many of the TTN parts.
  13. Warden, you still need colt 1878 parts? BTW, that W. Richards is Belgian. Here's one I did awhile back,
  14. Most any will work. Some better than others. The most challenging is removing stuck nipples. So, I built this one from a small 1/4" drive socket notched to fit and to be used with the 1/4" square drive to 1/4" hex adaptor into an impact driver. I have even used it on original CB guns with good success
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