Nate Kiowa Jones #6765

Did you do this conversion? The reason I ask is a 45acp at .470" won't fit into a 357mag tube at .445". Too big for the 357m bolt face, too. Here is one I replaced the ejector in. It was converted down in Brazil for a rubber plantation police force so they could use the same ammo they were using in the systemas and balistor moline 45s. They used 44-40s and 38-40's then the mag tubes were set back protruding into the receiver. The left side guide was shortened for the cart stop as was the carrier shortened. The right side not modified. Probably the most unique thing was the caliber marking 45LC. In the early 1900's that was their name for 45 ACP. It was called 45 Latin Cartridge. These guns didn't work that well. Particularly at speed. They tend to throw out live rounds with emptied. This was mainly because the 45acp had no rim that would ride in the angled rim slots. Slow and deliberate they sorta work.

I do but I am a fulltime gunsmith with a backlog of gun work. So the problem is time and cost. I probably have at least 4 or 5 hours in each set.

Just finished these American Ivory.

Never dry fire a colt style SAA action without quality snap caps. The firing pins are designed to float to help align them with the hole in the frame. If the FP doesn't have a primer to hit it slams forward and eventually bends/loosens the retaining pin. Plus, the Pietta has a recoil shield mounted firing pin bushing that can be loosened and lost.

Seems no one mentioned primers backing out. Tell us about your ammo. This comes up occasionally when hand loading for CAs. Some ammo is down loaded to a point where it won't re-set the primer. How it works. When fired the primers always back out but as the bullet exits the brass is slammed back over the primer re-seating it. If it is so weak the primer may not re-seat and will lock the gun up. To check this next time it happens use a rod down the bore into the brass and give it a tap to re-set the primer. If that isn't the problem the timing is a bit off. The top of the pawl may need to be lowered just slightly to give the bolt time to release the cylinder.

I am an FFL/SOT. I do except C&R's. But the sender must supply a valid DOM (date of manufacture) along with a reputable on-line source for the info supplied. A good example would be the pocket pistols. Many were made pre 1898. But not all and most had no serial number. Some will tell you sure but if it had this or that it was pre 1898. My problem with that is I don't want to be the guy that has to try and give an AFT inspector a history lesson.

What he said. USPS does not ship ammo. They consider primed brass the same as ammo. They will ship brass, and bullets. But no powders or primers or loaded ammo.

Because they primarily used the 5 in 1 blanks the majority of the movie henry's were modified 92's.

I didn't look at the vids but I have cut many shotguns stock for the ladies. The crook of the elbow to the trigger method is a good method for skeet and other games where the gun is already mounted and you don't have to work the action. Doesn't work well for what we do. What I've found for both but particularly for the ladies is the stock should be just long enough to allow the thumb of the trigger hand to be no closer than an 1" but not more than 3" from the shooters nose. Generally, if the stock is longer the crook of the elbow will be extended beyond 90% and because the ladies and youths generally don't have the upper body strength that men do and the ladies also have those protrusion there on their chest that can get in the way, so the gun will be too front heavy. When you see that new shooter leaning way back struggling to hold the gun up that is usually the reason why, the stock is just too long. Also the stocks on most of the CAS SXS guns are designed for aerial targets. When you point them toward the ground the positive toe of those stocks tends to dig into your shoulder when you fire. This will eventually cause the shooter to let the stock move down on shoulder which brings the front end up. Shot goes high. Savvy shooters will lean way into the shot but that usually doesn't ’t work for the lady shooters. So, now that positive toe is nailing them. For the shotguns besides shortening the stock I like cut them so the pad is about 5 degrees negative. That helps take some of the felt recoil away shooting at our ground targets. Here’s a good example. This young lady was 11 years old when this picture was taken. This first pic is her with one of the youth size henry 22’s and as you can see she is still struggling to hold it up. Here she is with a 12ga Baikal SXS that is cut to about 10”LOP with a mercury recoil reducer and good pad. Her stance isn’t that great but she is definitely in more control of the gun.

Here's how I like to slug a bore. I like to use a slug of soft lead that is at least 1 1/2 times long than the bore dia that's being slugged. This extra length assures that the slug doesn't wobble or try to turn in the bore as it's hammered through. This can be verified with short slugs. Measurements will vary depending on where you measure it. The longer slug yields more consistent results. Make sure the bore is clean lead free and lightly oiled, as in an oiled patch pushed through it. You can drive the slug in from the muzzle if you use a leather or rubber mallet so as not to damage the crown. I like to drive it all the way through to feel any high spots or bulges. I like to use a brass or hardwood dowel that is close to bore size. A rod that is too small can deform the soft lead. Next if it's a levergun I use two wooden dowels just smaller than the bore and cut to the cartridge OAL. These are inserted into the chamber end and the action closed. Next the slug is re inserted in the muzzle end and driven to the wood dowel then bumped up so it's now tight. Now, open the action, remove the dowels and gently tap the slug on out. This will give you a really true picture of the bore just in front of the chamber or farther out depending on how many dowels are used. To measure I use a zero-ed Starret micrometer. Most dial calipers aren’t accurate enough.

The one on the left is the balloon case.

Most likely a 45 long colt balloon case. They weren't rebated for extractors. If it's short enough it could be a S&W 45, as in Schofield. However I think they were mostly bennet primed, (internal primer)

There is and I had one years ago. But, I can't find it. Now days I just use the Green sleeve locker from LocTite. Same stuff I use for barrel relines.

I would add a hardened firing pin bushing like the Colt and Pietta GWII SAA has. I just had to do that to a pair of ASM SAA's. They too had recessed enough to bind the cylinder because the primer wasn't re-seating. I haven't checked in awhile but I bought several bushing from Dixie years ago

Until about the mid 2000's the 92's and the Marlin 1894's ruled the game. The 73's and 66's were available but they were clunky heavy with lot of slack in the action making for really long lever throws. By the mid 2000's the short stroke parts came out for the 73 and 66. These short stroke parts tighenvup the slack directing toward the lever throw. Bottom line is if you plan to go with the 66 or 73 plan on the short stroke work or you probably won't be to happy with it.