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What equipment would you recommend for someone starting in CAS?


Marshal May

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You can learn a whole lot by dry firing. When I started probably dry fired a thousand make believe rounds for every live round for a while.

 

And then there are those of us who are a little less anal. We're in this for the companionship, shooting old-timey guns and looking damned good while we do it. For me, style points are worth much more than ranking. Good thing, too, 'cause I'm in no danger of ever winning a match.

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And then there are those of us who are a little less anal. We're in this for the companionship, shooting old-timey guns and looking damned good while we do it. For me, style points are worth much more than ranking. Good thing, too, 'cause I'm in no danger of ever winning a match.

:wub:

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I have seen more people moving away from the 97 shotgun to a SxS, at least in these parts.

 

What typs of SxS? Double or single trigger? External real working or internal hammers?

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And then there are those of us who are a little less anal. We're in this for the companionship, shooting old-timey guns and looking damned good while we do it. For me, style points are worth much more than ranking. Good thing, too, 'cause I'm in no danger of ever winning a match.

Why waste electrons using a timer when you shoot then?

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Why waste electrons using a timer when you shoot then?

 

I don't. If somebody else wants to run around with a timer, it's no affair of mine.

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What typs of SxS? Double or single trigger? External real working or internal hammers?

 

If you go with one of the inexpensive brands (Stoeger or Baikal) stick with the double trigger versions; simpler mechanism = more reliable.

Go with internal hammers unless you want to shoot in one of the categories that require external hammers.

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Just for grins and giggles, here's what I started with.

 

2 - Ruger New Vaquero's, SS, 4 & 5/8 barrels, .357. Box stock brand new, never done a thing to them but shoot the snot out of them. Was showing one to someone a few weeks ago, they asked who did the action work, no action work, just shoot them alot.

 

1 - Marlin 1894 Slicked up by Jimmy Spurs. After trying several rifles, I wanted a Marlin, and could not find one, Jimmy had one slicked up and ready to go, I bought it and love it. Compared to my old Marlin 39A .22, the 94 is way way way slicker. When I can afford to buy another rifle for CAS, I'll buy one that is already slicked up.

 

1 - TTN Hammered double, 12 GA, box stock, not a think done to it but shoot it, it loosened up (in a good way) after shooting a few hunting shells thru it.

 

Since then I bought a Baikal 12 ga hammerless. Out of the box it needed work as it was so stiff it wouldn't stay open for reloads. Had it worked over by Gunslinger and love it.

 

Leather I traded a couple of non CAS guns for a full custom leather rig and braces (suspenders). Wasn't having any luck selling the guns and the trade was good for all involved.

 

Grizz

 

Gun cart I built myself, not a big deal.

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Thanks for all the great replies. Most appreciated. Waiting is hard but I hear the advice.

 

Someone mentioned just get revolvers first. What do you think about starting with a Ruger Single Six .22 for target practice at the indoor range over winter before buying the big caliber guns?...

Hi Marshal,

 

I would say don't. Recoil is too large a part of sighting on the target. However, it might be better than not practicing at all... :unsure:

 

This reminds me of a match a long time ago when someone I know, who practiced with a .22, came up to a side match carrying her/his own .22 pistol when many of us were borrowing the MD's .22. She/he had no advantage and got her/his clock cleaned by folks who usually practice with their match guns. I felt really sorry for her/him. :(

 

I'm not sure that it really proves anything other than it won't even help you in a side match against others using the same caliber gun.

 

Regards,

 

Allie Mo

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Thanks for all the great replies. Most appreciated. Waiting is hard but I hear the advice.

 

Someone mentioned just get revolvers first. What do you think about starting with a Ruger Single Six .22 for target practice at the indoor range over winter before buying the big caliber guns?

 

For budget I do not wish to go cheapest or most expensive. Best value is what I'm looking for. Participation is the goal, not competition at least to start.

 

I appreciate good leather as I have horses, saddles and tack. I've been considering Kirkpatrick and Mernickle. The link to Knights Leasther starter rigs was one I had not stumbled on before. Looks like a very good for the price rig.

 

As I live in Canada we do not have the extensive firearm shopping opportunity that you have in the US. I'd love to order slicked up guns from some of the mentioned CAS gunsmiths but your US export laws dont make this an easy undertaking. So I am limited to what the dealers in Canada are ordering in this spring. Not a lot of stock currently. Really have to place a backorder and wait until spring deliveries occur.

 

As for caliber if I read and digested everything correctly only two calibers were mentioned .357/.38 and .45. The .38 is least expensive ammo, lowest recoil and might be the better choice for a beginner to participate and have fun. The .45 seems to be recommended as it gives the greatest overall class flexibility. Also would work in mounted shooting howeever currently there is no mounted shooting offered in Manitoba, Canada at the moment.

 

Should a new shooter go .45 or really do most people start .357/.38 and go .45 after they have some experience.

 

Same question for shotgun. Do most start with a SxS and then go to a 97 after they have some experience and gain the desire to be more faster/competive?

 

Someone asked what firearms we are allowed to own in Canada. Good question. Very briefly with the correct firearm safety training courses taken and passed and license application approved we can own everything required for CAS. No problems.

 

Marshall May,

 

As others have said go to matches. If no clubs are having matches due to weather talk to as many local members as possible. While you are talking ask about local leather workers. Some can make you a very good custom rig for what the big shops charge for over the counter rigs. They can also help narrow your choices (cross draw or straight hang, high ride or buscadero).

 

Given the info in this post I would suggest Ruger Vaqueros, a Marlin 94 and a USSG (Bakail) sxs. These guns are not the cheapest but would last 90% of the shooters their entire cas career. They all may not be the top choice of the top shooters, but with good technique and effort could get you to the winners circle. All of these guns should be available new or used so keep an eye out for good used ones. In a later post you ask about single or double triggers on the sxs in the cheaper sxs a double trigger is the more reliable choice. If you use a pump shotgun for hunting or in other shooting sports you could start with a 97 it is just personal preference.

 

38s are probable the most common cal. because of price and ability to compete, but many can run 45s just as fast. This is just a guess but for every shooter who started with 38s and went to 45s there are probably two that went the other way. There are also those that like the more period correct calibers...44-40, 38-40, 32-20, and even a smattering of 32 H&Rs.

 

Hope this helps,

 

Smoke

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Greetings all,

 

Just joined SASS as I'm interested in getting involved in CAS. At my local gun club the next CAS match won't happen until spring time. I have been trying to learn as much as I can from members here and all the great sites and videos on the Internet. So thought I'd ask you fine folks here the wide open question of;

 

What equipment would you recommend for someone starting in CAS and why?

 

revolvers?

lever rifle?

caliber?

shotgun?

holster rig?

gun cart?

 

If I may guide the responses... Focus on ease and value for a beginner to get the most fun out of just participating.

 

Cheers,

 

Darrell

 

 

Pistols??? That's easy. You can not go wrong with Rugers. Which ever ones fits your fancy, and the category you might want to shoot. My wife really likes Ruger Blackhawks. I like Ruger Bisleys. As Blackhawks are not allowed in Duelist or GFer. Or you may want the Vaquero. What category's you are thinking about shooting would help pick which one of the Rugers I would go with.

 

Rifle??? The best one you can afford. I list them like this.

#1 73, #2 66, #3 Marlin, #4 92, After the 92. I would just give up.

 

Caliber??? .357 shooting .38s out of them. WHY. Because it is just flat out cheaper. So unless you

are going to shoot Classic Cowboy. That is what I would go with.

 

Shotgun??? I like SxS's. And if you can afford an SKB, or BSS. But they will run you around $1200-$1400.

If not, it would be a Baikal Double trigger slicked up. And you would only be in it for around $500 bucks.

And it is still a really good SASS shotgun. OR, if going Classic Cowboy a TTN.

 

Leather??? Lots of good leather makers out there at good prices. Check around. You may have one local.

Or call Jack Houston at LoneRider Leather, or, Persimmon Dan at Murphy Custom Gunleather.

 

Cart??? You can get by with just about anything to start. Heck if you was close to me I would give you

one. Or is you want to start off with a good one. Rugged Gear is the one I use.

 

Good luck and enjoy.

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Greetings all,

 

Just joined SASS as I'm interested in getting involved in CAS. At my local gun club the next CAS match won't happen until spring time. I have been trying to learn as much as I can from members here and all the great sites and videos on the Internet. So thought I'd ask you fine folks here the wide open question of;

 

What equipment would you recommend for someone starting in CAS and why?

 

revolvers?

lever rifle?

caliber?

shotgun?

holster rig?

gun cart?

 

If I may guide the responses... Focus on ease and value for a beginner to get the most fun out of just participating.

 

Cheers,

 

Darrell

So . . . welcome to the best fun you can have while still dressed and with strangers . . . .

 

You'll get a lot of advice, and frankly - if you asked, then you're probably the kind of person who will listen to their advice . . .

 

If not, then listen up .. .

 

If you like this style of firearm (1870's and on ) and are looking for a game that uses it . .you've come to the right place.

 

Get a couple of guns that suit your fancy, Colt's, clones, Rugers, what ever the wallet can stand.

Get them in a caliber that makes you happy - we play this game to be happy.

 

I like .45 Colt - they're just righteous . .IMNSHO . .but that's me - folks like .32-20, .38, and others too . .

sorta like blond's versus brunette's versus red-heads . . it's all good!

 

If they don't make you happy - trade them for others . . us gun owners do that a lot - most of us do not buy

one gun and stay with it forever, we trade and buy and sell . . believe me - we all do it - we just have

very well thought out rationale for it - not excuses - rationale . . . .

 

Find leather that either works - or makes you happy - this is a game - and if your not happy - don't bother playing it -

you're only wasting your time . . .

 

A rifle is what you make of it . . most folks don't lose because their rifle cost them .002 seconds per shot, they lose because

their transitions take forever ... I like '92's - but I'm 6'2" and like a rifle that feels like a Mattel toy - takes me back to

the 60's doncha know . . . Others like the '73 - it's cool too - just a matter of what ya like . . . I still want a Henry - it's

just too sexy a rifle - don't care if it burns my fingers - aim to get one - cool factor is most important!!

 

Same with shotguns - started with a coach gun, moved to a 26" barreled gun - cause I like it . . .

Are ya here to be a winner at competing - or at having fun . . those are your parameters . .the rest is easy after you figure that out . . .

 

The point of my diatribe is that no one of us can tell you the right answer - we can only give you opinions . . . .

 

Good judgment comes from experience,

experience comes from bad judgment.

 

Unbless you are totaly overwhelmed by your budget - it's okay to step off the reservationa and just do what you want . . .

if it don't work out - there is always someone willing to trade for your stuff and you can buy more . . . .

 

Enjoy the trip . . it ends all too soon . . . .

 

Shadow Catcher

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Howdy Marshal May

 

All good advice from the US pards.

 

Guns available in the US are sometimes hard to come by in the GWN but not impossible.

 

I have sent an e-mule with a Canadian classifieds site for Cowboy guns and other kit.

 

Stoney

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. . . no one of us can tell you the right answer - we can only give you opinions . . . .

 

Good judgment comes from experience,

experience comes from bad judgment.

 

 

ain't that the truth!

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Someone mentioned just get revolvers first. What do you think about starting with a Ruger Single Six .22 for target practice at the indoor range over winter before buying the big caliber guns?

I haven't read every post, so this may have been covered. In a word, no, you don't want Single Sixes. I'd bet dollars to donuts that you know how to aim a gun. In case you don't, align that little thingy on the front of the barrel in the slot on the back of the gun, place it over the target and pull the trigger. :D :D :D

 

It seems that one of the most difficult things for a new cowboy shooter to grasp is the fact that the "speed" is in the manipulation of the guns and the transitions from one gun to another instead of how well they can aim. Of course aiming is important, but that is the skill that most who begin this game already possess. Pulling a pistol from leather, cocking it five times, holstering it, repeating with the other pistol, transitioning to a long gun, levering the rifle ten times, another transition, load the shotgun, etc., etc., etc. I know that is what I thought when I started.

 

One of the most critical parts of learning to do your best at this game is to dry fire...and you cannot dry fire a Single Six.

 

My advice is pretty basic: Buy the best guns you can afford when you begin. Shop. You can use gunbroker.com to get an idea of values of guns, but remember, an asking price means nothing. Only sold guns have meaning when it comes to market value.

 

Pistols: A properly cared for pair of used Rugers are likely to serve you as well as a pair of new ones would. The stainless ones are practically indestructible. The blued ones are fine, they just need a little more attention. If you buy them right, you can sell them without taking a beating should you later decide you prefer another pistol.

 

Bone stock Rugers can be fast. Put a set of hammer springs in them (super cheap) and they'd be as good as 98+% of shooters would EVER need. This is true of the Vaqueros, New Vaqueros and Blackhawks. Colts and clones can be fine, but they typically need to be tuned in order to be used in this game. If you find a deal on a used set that someone else has invested in tuning, they could be fine. IMO, you need to be better "gun-educated" in order to buy Colts and clones. You don't in order to buy Rugers other than understanding the value/cost.

 

Rifle: In order, my choice would be a Uberti (not Chaparrel) 73 or 66, a Marlin, a 92. Remember on any of them, shop so if you decide on something else later, you can sell it without taking a beating. Ultimately on any of the rifles, one that has already been tuned will likely be your best buy.

 

Shotgun: Go to the range and handle 97's and doubles. Once you decide which direction you're heading, then I can talk more about shotguns.

 

MOST IMPORTANT: Get out to shoots. Handle guns. See what YOU like.

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I haven't read every post, so this may have been covered. In a word, no, you don't want Single Sixes. I'd bet dollars to donuts that you know how to aim a gun. In case you don't, align that little thingy on the front of the barrel in the slot on the back of the gun, place it over the target and pull the trigger. :D :D :D

 

Good points. Your right. No need for a single six. I do know how to aim and will say... I'm a mighty fine shot with a BB pistol on a paper target in my barn. :lol: I also know that one of the most important things in shooting is to achieve speed from precision of movement as opposed to fast and sloppy movement.

 

Right now for equipment I'm favoring the following:

 

Ruger New Vaquero, 5 1/2", .357

Winchester 1892 Carbine, .357

Stoeger Coach Gun Supreme, hammerless, double trigger, 12 ga

 

The above would be ordered new. I picked the Winchester because I just think it would be 'cool' to have a '92 from Winchester themselves.

 

Leather I still like Mernickle's Evil Roy and Kirkpatrick's Long Hunter rigs. Might come down to a coin toss.

 

Gun cart will probably build my own and/or take a closer look at a Rugged Gear 4-Gun Shooting Cart.

 

Anyhow, just my current ideas. Will not order for a while. I hope to speak with more local CAS shooters in the New Year first.

 

Thanks again for all the replies so far. All the above is still open for comment.

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Good points. Your right. No need for a single six. I do know how to aim and will say... I'm a mighty fine shot with a BB pistol on a paper target in my barn. :lol: I also know that one of the most important things in shooting is to achieve speed from precision of movement as opposed to fast and sloppy movement.

 

Right now for equipment I'm favoring the following:

 

Ruger New Vaquero, 5 1/2", .357

Winchester 1892 Carbine, .357

Stoeger Coach Gun Supreme, hammerless, double trigger, 12 ga

 

The above would be ordered new. I picked the Winchester because I just think it would be 'cool' to have a '92 from Winchester themselves.

 

Leather I still like Mernickle's Evil Roy and Kirkpatrick's Long Hunter rigs. Might come down to a coin toss.

 

Gun cart will probably build my own and/or take a closer look at a Rugged Gear 4-Gun Shooting Cart.

 

Anyhow, just my current ideas. Will not order for a while. I hope to speak with more local CAS shooters in the New Year first.

 

Thanks again for all the replies so far. All the above is still open for comment.

 

 

Welcome to the game Marshal!

 

Lots of good advice from many knowledgeable pards. As for your choices, most will agree with ya....with one exception. The rifle. Yes, I know you will hear the 92 can work in this game. But take a long hard look before you go that route. I, too, thought a 92 would be cool. Biggest mistake I ever made in this game. Between my wife and I we now have two Uberti 73's, a Uberti 66 and a Marlin CBC. All are very reliable, efficient guns for this game. Wouldn't hesitate to use any one any time. I fought with a 92, slicked up by what most regard as the best there is...Nate Kiowa Jones(Stevesgunz.com). He made it butter smooth, and as fast as one can be, but it still wouldn't perform at the speed needed for most shooters in this game. I'm somewhat competitive, by far not the fastest in the game. So if you really want a 92, please find one or more at a match and see if those pards will let you try them out. Then compare them to a 73, 66 or Marlin. You asked for advice, so this is mine. Good luck and again welcome!

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I had....repeat had a Rossi 92 in 38/357 for a couple of years.After having some work done it ran fine but not fast.Also it was case sensitive as far as length was concerned.It would run 38's as long as it was run slow.If it was run fast it kicked out live rounds.Usually to the tune of 2-3 per stage(10 rounds).What I ended up doing was loading some 357's.Then it worked great.It liked that extra almost 1/8th of an inch overall length.66 and 73's cost more,but as I mentioned earlier in here,the simplified loading system eliminates that problem.I know a couple of shooters that had 92's that ran 38's just fine.But the point I'm trying to get at is if you buy one,is that something you want to "chance" ?There are a couple of excellent gunsmiths in SASS that can make a 92 work very well,but from what I've gathered in other threads in here,it takes some work.A 66 or 73 will work right out of the box and can be shot in to become smoother.I have 3 73's now.Have had 2 66's and those were smooth right out of the box.TRY out everything you can before you buy anything.

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I'll back what Titus and Charlie are saying, and add for not much more than you are going to spend on that Winchester 92 you could get an Uberti 73 which is pretty much the gun for our game. If a shooter is on a tight budget a slicked Rossi will get you started in the game, but if you can afford the Winchester spend a little more of the kid's inheritance and get the 73.

 

Either way welcome to the game and good luck,

 

Smoke

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Right now for equipment I'm favoring the following:

 

Ruger New Vaquero, 5 1/2", .357

Winchester 1892 Carbine, .357

Stoeger Coach Gun Supreme, hammerless, double trigger, 12 ga

 

The above would be ordered new. I picked the Winchester because I just think it would be 'cool' to have a '92 from Winchester themselves.

 

Leather I still like Mernickle's Evil Roy and Kirkpatrick's Long Hunter rigs. Might come down to a coin toss.

 

Gun cart will probably build my own and/or take a closer look at a Rugged Gear 4-Gun Shooting Cart.

 

Anyhow, just my current ideas. Will not order for a while. I hope to speak with more local CAS shooters in the New Year first.

 

Thanks again for all the replies so far. All the above is still open for comment.

 

 

Pistols- Good choice, as long as you want the 5 1/2" barrels for looks (which is a perfectly good reason). The shorter barrels (4 5/8") will be a little quicker in transition though. I orignally wanted 7 1/2" barreled .45LC. I knew that my wife wouldbe sharing for awhile, and 7 1/2" were too long for her, so we decided to compromise on 5 1/2" barrels. When it came time to buy (local shop had Vaqueros 20% off), the only matching pair they had were .38s with 4 5/8" barrel. I reluctantly purchased them, but I would buy the same thing if I had it to do over again. In fact, I bought my wife the SASS Vaqueros a few months later.

 

Rifle- The Winchester looks nice, but I haven't seen anyone using one. When 90% of the shooters use either a 73/66 or a Marlin, there is probably a pretty good reason for that. Plus the Winchester is about the same price as a Uberti, and like the Uberti, will still need slicking up. There is no aftermarket support for the Winchester that I know of and your choices will be limited on a gunsmith to slick it up. I would just buy a 73 already slicked up by one of the big smiths or look for one used on the Wire classifieds (or at a local match).

 

Shotgun- The Stoeger double trigger model is a fine starter shotgun. It can be mildly slicked up pretty easily to make it usable. I started with a Stoeger before buying an already slicked up Baikal. My wife prefers the Stoeger and still uses it.

 

Leather- Both are nice. My rig is Kirkpatrick only because I got a good deal on it used. If I had to pay new prices, I'd buy the starter rig that I posted a link to. My Kirkpatrick rig is great, but it's not $200 better than the rig that I bought my wife.

 

Just my $0.02. I'm not trying to sway your opinion, just giving you info so that you can make an informed decision if you plan to buy before you try.

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I started CAS two years ago, and made the mistake of not seeking advice on what guns to shoot and started with a 92' as well. I no longer have any of the guns (or leather) that I started with, but I can say without reservation that the one gun that helped my shooting the most was a tuned 73' (or 66'). Your other choices will keep you competitive in the game no problem, but you will regret not spending the money on a quality rifle. IMHO.

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I started another direct thread on the Winchester '92. The comments on that thread and the resounding call to spend the extra and get a '73 is heard. Thanks folks.

 

A local dealer here brings in Uberti's. They tend to order in the 20" Short Rifle, .357. What do you think of this model?

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Leather- Both are nice. My rig is Kirkpatrick only because I got a good deal on it used. If I had to pay new prices, I'd buy the starter rig that I posted a link to. My Kirkpatrick rig is great, but it's not $200 better than the rig that I bought my wife.

 

Just my $0.02. I'm not trying to sway your opinion, just giving you info so that you can make an informed decision if you plan to buy before you try.

 

Much appreciated. That starter rig does look nice for the price. Thanks for that link.

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Yep.

Rethink that rifle.

Don't get hung up on the name Winchester.

For what you will pay for that gun. And getting it where it will

run good. So you can enjoy it more.

You would be pretty darn close to a good new slicked up 73 or 66.

 

I have used my Kirkpatrick Longhunter Rig for MANY years.

Really like it.

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Guest Tennessee Stud, SASS# 43634 Life

As a newbie... and if you post much on the Wire... you best get some thick skin.

 

ts

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I started another direct thread on the Winchester '92. The comments on that thread and the resounding call to spend the extra and get a '73 is heard. Thanks folks.

 

A local dealer here brings in Uberti's. They tend to order in the 20" Short Rifle, .357. What do you think of this model?

 

All right- now that we talked you into a 73, there are a few more things to consider. At a minimum you will want to replace the lever and carrier springs before considering it competition ready. If you are handy, this is an easy job that you can do yourself. If you later decide on a short stroke kit, you will have to do more work or send it off to be slicked up. If you do not plan to work on it yourself, you will defenitly be better off to purchase the rifle directly from one of the smiths already slicked up. Their prices aren't really that much more than what a stock rifle sells for from a local dealer (around here at least). If you plan to do all of the work yourself, you will likely break even financially when you factor in the cost of the aftermarket parts.

 

I bought my 73 from a local shop because it was a decent price and had a beautiful stock. I installed a set of Slix Springs and shot it for a few months. I then installed a short stroke kit and cleaned up the internals. I have been shooting it like this ever since. It isn't the slickest rifle out there, but it has been 100% reliable. I probably have about $1200 in it. You can buy one already slicked up for about $1400. When I buy a backup rifle, I plan to just buy one already race-ready.

 

Concerning the short rifle, that seems to be the most popular model that I see people using. Mine is the carbine, which is the lightest handling of the 73s. Some people prefer the longer barreled rifles due to the added weight out front. It is really all personal preference.

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As a newbie... and if you post much on the Wire... you best get some thick skin.

 

ts

 

As a newbie... I've certainly enjoyed the shared knowledge, comments and advice so far. Everyone has been most welcoming and polite. So I dont understand your comment... :unsure:

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Howdy Badlands,

Go to GunBroker.com and check out Auction #264607312.

 

Merry Christmas,

Roy

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All right- now that we talked you into a 73, there are a few more things to consider. At a minimum you will want to replace the lever and carrier springs before considering it competition ready. If you are handy, this is an easy job that you can do yourself. If you later decide on a short stroke kit, you will have to do more work or send it off to be slicked up. If you do not plan to work on it yourself, you will defenitly be better off to purchase the rifle directly from one of the smiths already slicked up. Their prices aren't really that much more than what a stock rifle sells for from a local dealer (around here at least). If you plan to do all of the work yourself, you will likely break even financially when you factor in the cost of the aftermarket parts.

 

I bought my 73 from a local shop because it was a decent price and had a beautiful stock. I installed a set of Slix Springs and shot it for a few months. I then installed a short stroke kit and cleaned up the internals. I have been shooting it like this ever since. It isn't the slickest rifle out there, but it has been 100% reliable. I probably have about $1200 in it. You can buy one already slicked up for about $1400. When I buy a backup rifle, I plan to just buy one already race-ready.

 

Concerning the short rifle, that seems to be the most popular model that I see people using. Mine is the carbine, which is the lightest handling of the 73s. Some people prefer the longer barreled rifles due to the added weight out front. It is really all personal preference.

 

Good advice but as I live in Canada ordering a slicked up '73 from one of the many fine gunsmiths done in the US is not an easy undetaking. Your US firearm export laws are brutal. Thankfully I am handy. :) My focus to start is on fun participation so anything to make the guns more reliable will be my initial focus. Competition will grow over time.

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I personally started with .45's and changed to 38's as I got more experience (wanted to go faster) and brass prices started going crazy. It's easy to find once-fired .38's at a good price. I started with a SxS and then bought a 97, just didn't like it as well so I'm still shooting my SxS. Several of the 97 shooters in my area have changed to SKB's and haven't looked back.

 

Good luck with your gear and have fun.

 

Randy

 

MY BLOG

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I started another direct thread on the Winchester '92. The comments on that thread and the resounding call to spend the extra and get a '73 is heard. Thanks folks.

 

A local dealer here brings in Uberti's. They tend to order in the 20" Short Rifle, .357. What do you think of this model?

 

The short rifles are very popular. When I bought mine I was trying to decide between a 20 inch barrel and the shorter 18 (or 18.5, I forget but this is the shortest length that allows for a ten round magazine). I chose the 20 incher because that was what was available when I ordered it.

 

If I had to do it over I might opt for the shorter tube; it seems to balance better.

 

Another variation that I thought was odd when I first saw it is the "half round, half octagonal" barrel. You can get that in 18 inches and it has a really great feel.

 

Of course, "feel" and "balance" are in some sense subjective so if you have a chance to handle (if not shoot) some examples before buying, that is ideal.

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Good advice but as I live in Canada ordering a slicked up '73 from one of the many fine gunsmiths done in the US is not an easy undetaking. Your US firearm export laws are brutal. Thankfully I am handy. :) My focus to start is on fun participation so anything to make the guns more reliable will be my initial focus. Competition will grow over time.

 

In that case, go ahead and pick up a 73 locally and change the lever, carrier, and lever safety springs youself. You'll be good to go for awhile until you feel the need for a short stroke kit.

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What equipment would you recommend for someone starting in CAS and why?

 

revolvers? Ruger Vaqueros. They almost never break.

lever rifle? Uberti 73. It is the rifle for CAS. Alot of good gunsmiths to choose from if you decide to tune it.

caliber? 38 special. Cheap to shoot.

shotgun? Browning or SKB SXS. Buy the right off the bat and save some money.

holster rig? Kirkpatrick Long Hunter Rig. Good quality leather.

gun cart? The ruged gear cart.

 

I dont believe in buying starter guns / cheaper guns, you end up replacing them something else. So why waste the money.

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Howdy Pard, and welcome aboard. I'm an older fellow who never would have guessed I'd live to shoot in Senior class or i'd ha kept better care of myself. My aurther friend has reduced my hands to a couple of stiff sore things I barely recognize. I have an older Marlin Cowboy .45, a Rossi early stainless model '92 winchester replica saddle ring carbine in .45, a Uberti 1873 long rifle(24" barreled)also a .45, and a uberti 1866 yellowboy in 44-40. In the interest of saving money for Motrin to quiet down my hand pain, the Marlin 1894 Cowboy is my hands down (no pun unintended)favorite. The 44-40 1866 Yellowboy seems to be a close second with the 1873 close behind it and if I shoot the Rossi for a whole match my knuckles of my right (Lever) hand will swell up like there are golf balls stuffed in there somewhere. None of my guns have been "slicked" up in any way and are as from the manufacturer. The Marlin is just as smooth as warm butter...mmmmm.

All that being said, when I walk down the lane to the mail box at the road or go over the hill to check the oil well pressure or walk out to the back field, I take that shiny SS Rossi. It is just a handy light little gun and when not playing cowboy I fill the tube magazine with hot loaded 250 grain Hornady XTP jacketed hollowpoints. I NEVER feel undergunned.

Anyway, have fun with whatever you choose, as that is the real reason to play our game!

Wakatomika :D

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Good points. Your right. No need for a single six. I do know how to aim and will say... I'm a mighty fine shot with a BB pistol on a paper target in my barn. :lol: I also know that one of the most important things in shooting is to achieve speed from precision of movement as opposed to fast and sloppy movement.

 

Right now for equipment I'm favoring the following:

 

Ruger New Vaquero, 5 1/2", .357

Winchester 1892 Carbine, .357

Stoeger Coach Gun Supreme, hammerless, double trigger, 12 ga

 

The above would be ordered new. I picked the Winchester because I just think it would be 'cool' to have a '92 from Winchester themselves.

 

Leather I still like Mernickle's Evil Roy and Kirkpatrick's Long Hunter rigs. Might come down to a coin toss.

 

Gun cart will probably build my own and/or take a closer look at a Rugged Gear 4-Gun Shooting Cart.

 

Anyhow, just my current ideas. Will not order for a while. I hope to speak with more local CAS shooters in the New Year first.

 

Thanks again for all the replies so far. All the above is still open for comment.

Bad choice on the 92 or clone. You will regret it. There is only one or two gunsmiths in the country that can make them useful for our sport. A Marlin, 66 or 73 Uberti would be a whole lot better choice.

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