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What equipment would you recommend for someone starting in CAS?


Marshal May

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Bad choice on the 92 or clone. You will regret it. There is only one or two gunsmiths in the country that can make them useful for our sport. A Marlin, 66 or 73 Uberti would be a whole lot better choice.

 

 

After reading this type post for many years, I can tell you the the number of shhoters that started with a Marlin, or Rossi and later went to a 66 or 73 will outnumber the ones going the other way about 25 to 1.

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After reading this type post for many years, I can tell you the the number of shhoters that started with a Marlin, or Rossi and later went to a 66 or 73 will outnumber the ones going the other way about 25 to 1.

I belive what you say, but there might be one exception. Many CAS shooters using a 357 73 did not want to invest that much money to shoot a Wild Bunch match, so they are purchasing Marlins in 45 LC.

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Guest Cinch, SASS#29433

Bad choice on the 92 or clone. You will regret it. There is only one or two gunsmiths in the country that can make them useful for our sport. A Marlin, 66 or 73 Uberti would be a whole lot better choice.

 

Ha! I get so tired of the 1 or 2 92 guys thing... As for the Marlin in .45 be sure to wear your glasses at all times cuz the blowby follows the bolt straight back ;)

 

For alot of folks a 92 will get them out and playing for alot less than the toggle links. The toggle links are great but come with additional cost of immediately buying parts. This is where the "which generation short stroke?" posts come from. The Marlin also immediately needs an action job or be faced with the Marlin jam after a few hundred rounds. For the new shooter this could be translated as which $800 - $1500 dollar rifle should I buy?

 

I understand the buy once, cry once advice and it is very good advice if someone can afford it but there are shooters who are looking at buying 4 guns, leather, ammo, or reloading equipment and it all adds up. I would tell folks to:

 

Buy good leather the 1st time cuz it's not that much more than bad leather. Buy the best revolvers you can afford, a Stoeger, Baikal or a Model 97, and don't be afraid of the Rossi 92 if ya can't afford the others (.45's seem to have fewer feed problems and use Marauder's site if ya can't afford action work). Get started reloading as soon as ya can afford the equipment (.45's cost more).

 

The good thing about guns is ya can sell'em in a year to another new shooter who doesn't require or can't afford an SKB or BSS (what used to sell for $500-$600 before CAS :wacko: )

 

I bought my 1st Marlin cowboy in .45 for $400... try that now! Now back to the regularly scheduled brag on my gun list post... :huh:

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I recommend getting equipment to cast bullets and handload ammunition. Factory ammunition costs far too much, you gotta "roll your own" to really stay in the game.

 

 

Check out Lyman.

 

http://www.lymanproducts.com/lyman/presses-and-kits/

 

http://www.lymanproducts.com/lyman/bullet-casting/

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Ha! I get so tired of the 1 or 2 92 guys thing... As for the Marlin in .45 be sure to wear your glasses at all times cuz the blowby follows the bolt straight back ;)

 

For alot of folks a 92 will get them out and playing for alot less than the toggle links.

<SNIP>

I bought my 1st Marlin cowboy in .45 for $400... try that now! Now back to the regularly scheduled brag on my gun list post... :huh:

+1 - The whole thing about the '92 falls into the class of folks who blame the equipment. For the majority of shooters, a '92, either stock,

or worked over just a bit - will do. It will reliably cycle and shoot, hitting the target everytime if you put the sights on it before you

pull the trigger.

 

Perhaps the top 10% of shooters, and Uberti and evey short stroke manufacturer out there also, benefits from the performance edge of the '73 , but

in truth I really feel that for a shooter starting out, and for a shooter who is not expecting to be in the top 10% in his first five years, a '92

rifle will serve well. If you later become proficient enough, you can move on to another if you desire. The difference between a '92 and a '73 that has

been sanctified by the wizards will pay for about a seasons worth of ammunition, or more, and allow you to become a lot better that you were when

the season started ...

 

Also - in the real world, the '92 rifle can be loaded to do real rifle things, like hunt game, where as the toggle link guns are a mite puny in what

they can handle, comparably ... so if you want your rifle to do double duty like deer hunting - the '92 can do it ... the '73 ... not so much ...

 

Like I said earlier - I want a Henry in .45 Colt, and it won't let me win any more that my two Nate Kiowa Jones worked over '92's, that up to me to do,

but I am sure that the Henry will make me look sexier playing cowboy, just as I know my two NKJ '92's are Sierra Hotel, and good enough to take into the

woods on a long walk . . .

 

This game is about having fun, so get the stuff that makes you smile . . . that's why we're here!

 

Shadow Catcher

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Greetings all,

 

Just joined SASS as I'm interested in getting involved in CAS. At my local gun club the next CAS match won't happen until spring time. I have been trying to learn as much as I can from members here and all the great sites and videos on the Internet. So thought I'd ask you fine folks here the wide open question of;

 

What equipment would you recommend for someone starting in CAS and why?

 

revolvers?

lever rifle?

caliber?

shotgun?

holster rig?

gun cart?

 

 

If I may guide the responses... Focus on ease and value for a beginner to get the most fun out of just participating.

 

Cheers,

 

Darrell

 

Well, I still have most and have shot them all, and here's my 2-bits.

 

Like others have said - attend a few matches and get a feel for what you like.

Second - as a novice, KISS - Keep it simple Son

 

Next - Keep the rifle and pistols in the same caliber - 38 special/.357 predominate; Shotgun - 12 gauge

Shop around for good bargains on good used stuff.

 

Rifle - I'd recommend a good '92 Rossi or other clone in .38/.357 or an older Marlin

Pistols - Ruger - either the Old Model (my favorite) or new model Vaqueros or Blackhawks will work too - they are very easy to smooth up yourself with a little help.

Shotgun - Stoger double, simple, cheap, reliable and very easy to slick up, I have one I've been shooting for years.

Leather - Well frankly I make my own and it's not that hard to do. If you're buyin I've got a strong preference for Kirkpatrick, not cheap but nice stuff specifically designed for CAS.

Gun Cart - I've been shooting CAS since the late 70's and still have not found the perfect guncart. My advice is simpler and lighter are better - avoid War Wagons.

 

Reloading - you have to reload the rifle and pistol for this to be affordable. If you already have a single stage go with that till you decide to step up - then Go Dillon, there is no substitute. If you're only going to load one caliber the Square Deal is a great bargain. If you decide you're going to shoot LOTS the 650 XL is the Only Way to go (IMHO).

 

By the way I agree with Shadow Catcher's advice

 

Welcome

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Revolvers= Ruger Vaqueros, New or Old model, used to save some money, USFA rodeos

Rifle= Uberti 1873 lever

Caliber= 38/357 for least expense If you want to shoot Black Powder 44-40, 38-40 best calibers

Shotgun= 97 Winchester or if you want a double SKB 100, 150, 200, Browning BSS, Bakial Bounty Hunter, TTN 1878 for a hammered double.

12 Guage of course

Leather= Maverick Leather gunrigs and shotgun belts, www,maverickleather.net # 423-234-0380

Skip makes the best quality, designs, materials, and workmanship. Satisfacation guaranteed!

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Guest diablo slim shootist

Here Is the difinative answer to your question!

It does not matter-You will keep purchasing more and more guns

as you stay in this fun sport.Until the day comes when you look in the

safe and realize you need a bigger safe! :lol: You guys tell me if i'm wrong ;)

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Revolvers= Ruger Vaqueros, New or Old model, used to save some money, USFA rodeos

Rifle= Uberti 1873 lever

Caliber= 38/357 for least expense If you want to shoot Black Powder 44-40, 38-40 best calibers

Shotgun= 97 Winchester or if you want a double SKB 100, 150, 200, Browning BSS, Bakial Bounty Hunter, TTN 1878 for a hammered double.

12 Guage of course

Leather= Maverick Leather gunrigs and shotgun belts, www,maverickleather.net # 423-234-0380

Skip makes the best quality, designs, materials, and workmanship. Satisfacation guaranteed!

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Billy,

 

You need two revolvers, a rifle, and a SG for every SASS category.

 

Classic Cowboy requires a .40 caliber or larger revolver and rifle. The SG must be a hammered double or a model '87 lever.

 

Regards,

 

Allie Mo

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Then why did someone above state the cowboy class does not require a SG and only one revolver?

Hi Billy,

 

Which post stated that? I couldn't find it. If I knew what was said, I might be able to explain your misinterpretation or their mistake. :unsure:

 

We have no SASS categories like that. All categories expect you to shoot a SG, a rifle, and two revolvers. However, clubs have been known to make accomodations and special categories. I have heard of a local category called Sodbuster, where one pistol is shot. I have also heard of folks who only own one revolver, reloading the second five rounds "on the clock."

 

I have heard of accomodations being made for injured shooters who are unable to shoot the SG. We allowed one woman's husband to shoot SG for her until she healed from a "frozen shoulder."

 

Regards,

 

Allie Mo

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Howdy Marshal, welcome to the wire, ask a few of your shooting business are using, pair of Rugers in 38caliper, marlin 1894cb in 38 also, reproduction 97, if you want to start slow shoot in the working cowboy class, only one pistol and one rifle no shotgun...

Hi Billy,

 

That must be a local thing. There is no official "working cowboy class." Also, we have categories not classes. (Yes Lone Dog is right, I just did not want to harp on that.)

 

Also, we do not shoot "38 caliper" it is .38 caliber... I'm not sure what "ask a few of your shooting business are using" means either. Maybe to much Christmas cheer. :unsure:

 

Regards,

 

Allie Mo

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If money isn't a big issue......buy the good stuff.....by it once and grow into it. That's the fastest way to the top. If you are not so competitive there are cheaper ways. But if you buy good used guns you can get them cheap and sell them for what you bought em' for if you don't like em'.

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So...If the Ruger Vaqueros are heavier/bulkier and not really clones of the Colts why are they so much more popular then others? Price?

 

 

Yes.. price is one issue.. You can probably get 2 Ruger Vaquero's for the price of 1 Colt..

 

2nd. issue.. the Vaquero's are built like tanks... meaning they seem to last and last without breakdown issues..

 

Rance <_<

Learnin' experience huh? :)

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Here Is the difinative answer to your question!

It does not matter-You will keep purchasing more and more guns

as you stay in this fun sport.Until the day comes when you look in the

safe and realize you need a bigger safe! :lol: You guys tell me if i'm wrong ;)

 

Guilty As Charged :wacko:

 

There's Truth In them Words :blush:

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Yes.. price is one issue.. You can probably get 2 Ruger Vaquero's for the price of 1 Colt..

 

2nd. issue.. the Vaquero's are built like tanks... meaning they seem to last and last without breakdown issues..

 

Rance dry.gif

Learnin' experience huh? :)

 

Yup..

 

 

GG ~ :FlagAm:

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Yes.. price is one issue.. You can probably get 2 Ruger Vaquero's for the price of 1 Colt..

 

2nd. issue.. the Vaquero's are built like tanks... meaning they seem to last and last without breakdown issues..

 

Rance <_<

Learnin' experience huh? :)

 

 

Spot on Advice. I have some nice original Colts and I've had many clones. I've sold the clones and no longer shoot my Colts on a regular basis because of reliability and not wanting to kill my Colts. Rugers can be slicked up real nice and as the man said they are built like tanks. Dead reliable

 

As to rifles If you want to keep the price of entry down it's Marlin or '92, both of which can be inexpensively smoothed up to run very nicely (See Marauder's page link early in this string). A properly set up '73 will cost you a lot more if money's an object.

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If you are going to stay with the game and get even the least bit serious about it, you are going to end up with a slicked up short stroke 73. That's what the vast majority of us use. Might as well start with one and skip all the expense of starter and intermediate rifles which are just not gonna "do it" for ya. Learn from the rest of us. I started out with a Win 94 in 45 nearly 17 years ago. And then lots of 92s and Marlins.

 

Finally about 4 and a half years ago I told my pard Long Hunter to fix me up with one of those 357 Cimarron 20 inch octagon Border Deluxe pistol grip 73s. Been a happy camper since. I may never be a top shooter but it sure ain't my rifle that holds me back. And LH sells the 73s and 66s with his world famous action job, etc for much less than it would take to buy a stock rifle and then pay for the extras. One stop shop.

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If you are going to stay with the game and get even the least bit serious about it, you are going to end up with a slicked up short stroke 73. That's what the vast majority of us use. Might as well start with one and skip all the expense of starter and intermediate rifles which are just not gonna "do it" for ya. Learn from the rest of us. I started out with a Win 94 in 45 nearly 17 years ago. And then lots of 92s and Marlins.

 

Finally about 4 and a half years ago I told my pard Long Hunter to fix me up with one of those 357 Cimarron 20 inch octagon Border Deluxe pistol grip 73s. Been a happy camper since. I may never be a top shooter but it sure ain't my rifle that holds me back. And LH sells the 73s and 66s with his world famous action job, etc for much less than it would take to buy a stock rifle and then pay for the extras. One stop shop.

 

Well, ya can pay your money and make your choices. The '73's are great if you've got the money and the inclination and Long Hunter is top notch. However you don't have to have a '73 to play. I've shot this thing for over 30 years and still haven't really felt the need. My slick little Marlins and '92's serve me just fine. I've also got the added issue that my preferred calibers are the 32-20 and 38-40 and it's generally hard to find a '73 in those calibers. I do not feel handicapped by my rifles either. There's more time to be gained in shootin the shotgun well than the difference between a slick '73 and a slick Marlin or '92.

 

All good guns, just a matter of how much you want to spend to start playin

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Howdy Darrel! :)

 

I started on a budget, My 1st gun was a IGA Coach Gun Supreme, then a M92 Puma by Rossi in .357mag, later I got the DVD from Nate Kiowa Jones and had it slicked up it's a pleasure to shoot now. Then a pair of Rugers NM Vaqueros in .357mag 45/8 Barrels.

I shot that for the 1st year then I upgarded to a Uberti Win 1866 with all the bells and whistles.

I had my rig made by George Livingston at http://www.gandjleather.com/page9.html

From a fellow Canadian the best advise is get in touch with the boys in Winipeg they helped me when I got started we're using target design by one of the boys out there.

Take a look at our website http://www.doublebcowboys.com/

 

Welcome to the frey and I hope you have as much fun as I do.

 

Frenchy

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One essential is a 50-gallon drum of "Opinion Toleration" pills.

You will run into more strong opinions here than anywhere else I can think of.

You need to be tolerant, politely listen to them all, run all those opinions through your own "filter" and develop your own opinions.

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One essential is a 50-gallon drum of "Opinion Toleration" pills.

You will run into more strong opinions here than anywhere else I can think of.

You need to be tolerant, politely listen to them all, run all those opinions through your own "filter" and develop your own opinions.

:)

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You've already received some prime information, but what I have to offer is more of a beginner's view (ie. what did I start with). I was only in SASS a short time before my health got the better of me and I had to stand down, but my gear served me well all the way through.

 

revolvers? Ruger Vaquero's or Bisley Vaquero's

lever rifle? Braztech model 1892 w/20" barrel

caliber? 45 LC in both and Black Powder. Smokeless would be easier and most would chose 38/357, but I liked the big boom.

shotgun? Stoeger 12 gauge Supreme, double triggers

holster rig? Kirkpatrick leather, Long Hunter 09 series. Any combination you could imagine for any waist size.

gun cart? Cartright foldable wooden gun cart. Others are selling his stock since he has passed away, but a great cart.

 

The above items were all servicable out of the box and not so expensive as others. If you decide that you need a $1,500.00 to $2,00.00 rifle later on, then buy one and keep the 1892 for a back up. Or sell it to help defray the cost of the new one. Absolutely no need to go overboard when you are just starting. That and all the above mentioned items can be slicked up to probably faster than you can keep up with (at least that was so true for me). Smithy.

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You've already received some prime information, but what I have to offer is more of a beginner's view (ie. what did I start with). I was only in SASS a short time before my health got the better of me and I had to stand down, but my gear served me well all the way through.

 

 

 

The above items were all servicable out of the box and not so expensive as others. If you decide that you need a $1,500.00 to $2,00.00 rifle later on, then buy one and keep the 1892 for a back up. Or sell it to help defray the cost of the new one. Absolutely no need to go overboard when you are just starting. That and all the above mentioned items can be slicked up to probably faster than you can keep up with (at least that was so true for me). Smithy.

 

 

I agree with that advice. I'd suggest that if you want to improve rapidly yer better off going with good but less expensive equipment and then use the money you save to buy a good reloader and reloading supplies - then shoot and practice a lot. To me that's money better spent and will show improvement a lot faster than having the latest whiz-bang firearm. All the gear Smithy's suggested is good reliable equipment that can be smoothed up easily without costing a fortune. Add a Dillon Square Deal and go practice as much as you can. Then when you do move up in equipment you'll already know how to shoot well and play the game. As Smithy's suggested these guns will make good backups when you're tricked out stuff breaks down.

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Also a newbie. I'm gathering my equipment together, have an 1873 Navy Arms/Uberti Special Sporting in 45 lc and 24" barrel, a Ruger NV 4 5/8" SS 45 LC, a Ruger NV 7 1/2" barrel SS in 45 LC, cross draw double rig from very talented local artist. Need the shotgun now, have sen the garbage from China and the Stoeggers. Where do I look to see/find a Browning or SKB? didn't know they made a coach gun, or are you cutting them down? which is more preferred, hammerless or with hammers? Thanks in advance for your help.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

What equipment would you recommend for someone starting in CAS and why?

 

revolvers? Ruger Vaqueros. They almost never break.

lever rifle? Uberti 73. It is the rifle for CAS. Alot of good gunsmiths to choose from if you decide to tune it.

caliber? 38 special. Cheap to shoot.

shotgun? Browning or SKB SXS. Buy the right off the bat and save some money.

holster rig? Kirkpatrick Long Hunter Rig. Good quality leather.

gun cart? The ruged gear cart.

 

I dont believe in buying starter guns / cheaper guns, you end up replacing them something else. So why waste the money.

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Brownings and SKBs did not come in "coach gun" configuration so the ones you see with short tubes are cut down. Of course that gives you flexibility on barrel length; some folks like them a little longer than coach guns, maybe 22 inches. Of course there's no rule that says you have to shoot a short barreled shotgun; I've seen several people use field guns with no problem.

 

Understand that the Browning BSS and the SKBs are long discontinued. Good examples can be scarce and expensive and that is before you pay a good cowboy gunsmith to make them match ready. My guess is you'd have $1200 to $1400 in an SKB or BSS.

 

You might want to consider a Baikal; they cost about $300 brand new. They are stiff out of the box and require some work but they are tough. If I were buying a double and didn't want to shell out $1200 that is what I would buy.

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Brownings and SKBs did not come in "coach gun" configuration so the ones you see with short tubes are cut down. Of course that gives you flexibility on barrel length; some folks like them a little longer than coach guns, maybe 22 inches. Of course there's no rule that says you have to shoot a short barreled shotgun; I've seen several people use field guns with no problem.

 

Understand that the Browning BSS and the SKBs are long discontinued. Good examples can be scarce and expensive and that is before you pay a good cowboy gunsmith to make them match ready. My guess is you'd have $1200 to $1400 in an SKB or BSS.

 

You might want to consider a Baikal; they cost about $300 brand new. They are stiff out of the box and require some work but they are tough. If I were buying a double and didn't want to shell out $1200 that is what I would buy.

 

Is Baikal recommended over Stoeger? If yes, which Baikal model?

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