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Posted

I'VE never had anything to do with loading shotshells. I'm just getting set up now for it.

I have a press and probably not the right wads that came with the press.

Can you recommend any combinations?

I have some really old factory 12 gauge 2 and three quarters Canadian tire field loads that have tapered head inside and some from home hardware that are tapered.  The home hardware ones are so old the heads are wood on inside if you cut case in half.  

I have two types of wads

Some are Winchester #waa12f114 

Second type that I have alot of are not marked  but are  much shorter than the Winchester wads.both types of wads are for non tapered cases. If I'm shooting extremely light smokeless for indoor range will the wads matter? Example cornmeal for a filler. Probably hand weigh light powder charges.  Maybe use corrugated cardboard disks to get length right?

It's in a Brazilian double chambered for 12 garage 3 inch magnums 

I only want really  light 2 and 3 quarters  cowboy loads.

Posted

A lot is going to depend on what powder you can find.
 

Most use red dot/promo which is unobtanium currently. But there are recipes for titegroup and others for light loads. 

 

Any idea what powder you plan to use?

  • Like 1
Posted

I load federal SST hulls (the green ones) with 13.5 Red Dot, claybuster grey wads, 7/8 oz 7.5 shot. Works well for me. Knocks down targets (as long as I’m pointing at them!!!) 

  • Like 3
Posted

You mention using cornmeal filler and also shooting indoors.  You shooting BP at the indoor range?  Smokeless, you won't need a filler.

 

 

Totes

  • Like 1
Posted
50 minutes ago, Totes Magoats said:

You mention using cornmeal filler and also shooting indoors.  You shooting BP at the indoor range?  Smokeless, you won't need a filler.

 

 

Totes

I'm thinking he might have meant filler for the shot cup to help make a good crimp.  Dunno.

1 hour ago, Hoss said:

I load federal SST hulls (the green ones) with 13.5 Red Dot, claybuster grey wads, 7/8 oz 7.5 shot. Works well for me. Knocks down targets (as long as I’m pointing at them!!!) 

This ^^ - A lot of folks use this load (with common AA hulls, too) with plus or minus a bit of quite a number of suitable fast powders.  Not all are available right now but some are.

  • Like 1
Posted

OP, as a new shotgun reloader you need to use published loads and not experiment.  Use a single hull, primer and wad as specified in a published recipe.  These can be found in shotgun reloading manuals or online on powder distributor websites.  Shot size can vary a bit but I prefer smaller shot for CAS.  I don't know where you are going to find load data for the components you possess and recommend you put them aside for now.  I prefer loading in tapered hulls (AAs or Remingtons).   I get most of these free from shooters who do not reload.  You probably can get some the same way.  Most 209 shotgun primers are currently available so you can buy whatever your load calls for.  Likewise plastic wads are also available.  I recommend you select a load using a 3/4 or 7/8 oz wad.   Many fast-burning shotgun powders will make good, light loads.  Selection is currently poor as much powder is being loaded in military munitions.  Of what can be bought today I think Hodgdon's Perfect Pattern is most suitable for light loads.  If you load below published minimum loads you may experience poor ignition in cold weather.

  • Like 3
Posted
4 hours ago, Leroy Luck said:

A lot is going to depend on what powder you can find.
 

Most use red dot/promo which is unobtanium currently. But there are recipes for titegroup and others for light loads. 

 

Any idea what powder you plan to use?

 

4 hours ago, The Original Lumpy Gritz said:

What powder do you have?

Yeah powder is hard to get

I have w231,titegroup, autocomp and also about three quarters of a pound of Hercules blue dot.

 

Posted
3 hours ago, Totes Magoats said:

You mention using cornmeal filler and also shooting indoors.  You shooting BP at the indoor range?  Smokeless, you won't need a filler.

 

 

Totes

Winter time they shoot indoor range so I need smokeless for that.

Summer I can use black powder outside 

For indoor smokeless I was thinking of using a filler basically to get internal dimensions right so I can use the wads that came with my presses. I actually have 2 presses. Lee load-all looks new in box and a mec but mec only has one bushing for powder and lead and probably for magnum loads. I'm familiar with board and nail black powder method so presses  might just be for decaying,priming,sizing and I could weigh measure the rest by scales or measures.

I'm just trying to get into the sport without spending $15000 because it's alot to get 4 new guns shooting especially if you have to go antique revolver route.

Posted
2 minutes ago, Nickle said:

Winter time they shoot indoor range so I need smokeless for that.

Summer I can use black powder outside 

 

If I were just starting out from scratch without components and only shooting Smokeless in the Winter, I believe I'd just buy factory low recoil shells and reload for Black Powder when needed.  With the cost of powder, primers, shot and once fired hulls what they are right now, you're likely not going to save enough to make it worth the trouble.

 

Totes

  • Like 3
Posted
2 hours ago, Edward R S Canby, SASS#59971 said:

OP, as a new shotgun reloader you need to use published loads and not experiment.  Use a single hull, primer and wad as specified in a published recipe.  These can be found in shotgun reloading manuals or online on powder distributor websites.  Shot size can vary a bit but I prefer smaller shot for CAS.  I don't know where you are going to find load data for the components you possess and recommend you put them aside for now.  I prefer loading in tapered hulls (AAs or Remingtons).   I get most of these free from shooters who do not reload.  You probably can get some the same way.  Most 209 shotgun primers are currently available so you can buy whatever your load calls for.  Likewise plastic wads are also available.  I recommend you select a load using a 3/4 or 7/8 oz wad.   Many fast-burning shotgun powders will make good, light loads.  Selection is currently poor as much powder is being loaded in military munitions.  Of what can be bought today I think Hodgdon's Perfect Pattern is most suitable for light loads.  If you load below published minimum loads you may experience poor ignition in cold weather.

Yes I've been watching some utube videos on reloading and the old factory shells I have according to them  are pretty much junk. These were old discount shells I bought 40 years ago!

I will see what I can buy local 

Posted
2 minutes ago, Totes Magoats said:

 

If I were just starting out from scratch without components and only shooting Smokeless in the Winter, I believe I'd just buy factory low recoil shells and reload for Black Powder when needed.  With the cost of powder, primers, shot and once fired hulls what they are right now, you're likely not going to save enough to make it worth the trouble.

 

Totes

When I was in the city I was looking at some factory stuff I couldn't see on label if it was steel or lead shot. It was advertised or labeled as light clay loads. If you bought steel shot by mistake will it hurt an old gun?

Posted

Big NO to steel shot in SASS/CAS.  Lead shot only.

 

Look for Winchester or Federal Low-Recoil Low Noise rounds.  they will be sub 1000 FPS on the box.  Many like like the double AA's  and I've seen some shooting the Federal.

 

image.thumb.jpeg.96b90145de3c4efe0b0b63af8303b271.jpegfederal-premium-top-gun-low-recoil-12-gauge-ammo-2-3-4-7-5-1-1-8oz-25-round-box.webp.58fc3af1f300298c2fb6ee8dfa901755.webp

  • Like 3
Posted
41 minutes ago, Totes Magoats said:

Big NO to steel shot in SASS/CAS.  Lead shot only.

 

Look for Winchester or Federal Low-Recoil Low Noise rounds.  they will be sub 1000 FPS on the box.  Many like like the double AA's  and I've seen some shooting the Federal.

 

image.thumb.jpeg.96b90145de3c4efe0b0b63af8303b271.jpegfederal-premium-top-gun-low-recoil-12-gauge-ammo-2-3-4-7-5-1-1-8oz-25-round-box.webp.58fc3af1f300298c2fb6ee8dfa901755.webp

Thanks, now that I know what to look for or ask for it will make it alot easier. 

Posted

Those LNLR AA hulls reload well.  I reload them 8-10 times for clays.  I also reload Remington Gun Clubs one time with smokeless and then one more time with black powder.  After that I trash them.  Black powder burns hot and makes crimps brittle.  Before you buy once-fired hulls for ~20-cents each, do some dumpster diving at local clays ranges for reloadable hulls and ask local CAS shooters for donations.  I am about to donate about six hundred AA hulls a club member who is in need of new hulls.  You can load standard velocity shotgun shells with your Titegroup.  See the Hodgdon website for recipes.

  • Like 2
Posted

So with black powder rifle and pistol cartridges what I've been doing for last 30 years is after I fire them  I soak em in a butter dish that I have half full of vinegar just for this purpose.  I throw em in ,they have  some type of chemical reaction and bubble for a few minutes.  Then I take em out,rinse them under the tap with clean water.

Was told years ago you had to do this to keep  black powder fouling from weakening your brass.

So with shotshells and black powder do you do the same?

Posted
2 minutes ago, Nickle said:

So with black powder rifle and pistol cartridges what I've been doing for last 30 years is after I fire them  I soak em in a butter dish that I have half full of vinegar just for this purpose.  I throw em in ,they have  some type of chemical reaction and bubble for a few minutes.  Then I take em out,rinse them under the tap with clean water.

Was told years ago you had to do this to keep  black powder fouling from weakening your brass.

So with shotshells and black powder do you do the same?

Are you meaning all-brass shotgun shells or modern plastic shells?  I leave the discussion regarding all-brass shells to others.  I don't wash my plastic hulls because heat and not corrosion causes the primary damage to the hulls.  Washing won't undo the damage that heat does to the plastic crimp.  They are cheap and easily replaced so I don't try to salvage them.

  • Like 3
Posted

It has been said, but it is worth saying again.  If you are new to shotshell reloading, stick to established manufacturer's recipes.  Selecting your powder, you can use the load data from the powder manufacturer to make sure you are safe.  Best of times, as you will have a ball!   SB

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I strongly recommend, if you've never loaded shotsgells before, to get together with someone in the clubs that you shoot, who is experienced.  Shotgun loads are usually pretty  forgiving, but they can sometimes be catastrophic, splitting barrels, separating barrels, or blowing out the sides of chambers or barrels and causing injuries.  Matching correct powder charge to wad column to shot charge is important, if you want consistent performance.  For example, recently I saw a shooter using too high a wad column, that left a hole in the center of the crimps.   In competition, a few shot ran out of the hole and jambed his side-by- side when he next tried to close it.  Stuff happens, and the best way to avoid it is to know what you are doing ---and follow through doing it.   

Here are a couple loads that I use in CAS competition.  I use the heavier 1-1/8 oz loads for stiff knockdowns at distance, or for aerial clay birds.  

 

12gn Alliant Extralite with 7/8 oz 7-1/2 shot, using Remington STS green or gold hulls with Claybuster Wad #CB0178-13

12 ga. 

 

15gn Red Dot with 1-1/8oz of 7-1/2 shot in the above case with Claybuster Wad #CB2118-12

12 ga.

 

I'm in California and, surprisingly, I have been able to find both of the above propellants often enough to keep me shooting.  But I scan local stores and online sources frequently and buy whenever I find.  

 

Edited by Dusty Devil Dale
  • Like 1
Posted

anyone in the st cloud area of MN can have a lot of once fired hulls if they want them , my friend that passed in the last year had quite a hoard , ill see whats there and let folks know - but they have to come get them - not shipping anything , this is not a FS add 

 

beyond that i load a light 3/4 oz 12 ga in smokeless , i d9ont load black , i have found that the cost works buying 7/8 oz B&P factory shells so ive shot some in the last couple years , might check that out , 

  • Like 1
Posted

AmmoSeek website lets you seek for whatever ammo you are looking for. It is a good website to bookmark and keep handy.

 

https://ammoseek.com/ammo/12-gauge/Remington-shotgun?sl=2 3%2F4&ikw=Light Target

 

Here is the STS ammo a lot of us use and then keep the hulls for reloading.

 

https://redriverreloading.com/outdoor-store?route=product/product&product_id=158098&p=Remington-Premier-STS-Light-Target-12ga-2-34-1-18oz-#75-Shot-25&r=ammoseek

l_250208436_1-500x500.jpg

 

TM

  • Like 3
Posted
12 hours ago, Dusty Devil Dale said:

I strongly recommend, if you've never loaded shotsgells before, to get together with someone in the clubs that you shoot, who is experienced.  Shotgun loads are usually pretty  forgiving, but they can sometimes be catastrophic, splitting barrels, separating barrels, or blowing out the sides of chambers or barrels and causing injuries.  Matching correct powder charge to wad column to shot charge is important, if you want consistent performance.  For example, recently I saw a shooter using too high a wad column, that left a hole in the center of the crimps.   In competition, a few shot ran out of the hole and jambed his side-by- side when he next tried to close it.  Stuff happens, and the best way to avoid it is to know what you are doing ---and follow through doing it.   

Here are a couple loads that I use in CAS competition.  I use the heavier 1-1/8 oz loads for stiff knockdowns at distance, or for aerial clay birds.  

 

12gn Alliant Extralite with 7/8 oz 7-1/2 shot, using Remington STS green or gold hulls with Claybuster Wad #CB0178-13

12 ga. 

 

15gn Red Dot with 1-1/8oz of 7-1/2 shot in the above case with Claybuster Wad #CB2118-12

12 ga.

 

I'm in California and, surprisingly, I have been able to find both of the above propellants often enough to keep me shooting.  But I scan local stores and online sources frequently and buy whenever I find.  

 

Yes shotgun loading all new to me. 

The cases I have I know are cheap  hulls  but I'm thinking I should be able  to reload them atleast once.

I have a bunch of wads here that came with the presses I have. I cut my cheap 12gauage cases and they are both straight with  no taper. Both kinds of wads that I have are straight non tapered  wads and fit my cases perfectly. 

I'm going to look for a load in a case that's similar to mine. If I weigh out the powder charges and use cornmeal if needed  to get the internal overall length right it should  work. 

I just got to get looking in reloading manuals for a light load with a powder that I have.

With cowboy loads and fast powder the pressures shouldn't spike the same as say a big rifle cartridge with a 30 percent charge of slow burning  powder? 

I'm guessing biggest danger would be a squib load? Not over pressures with light loads of fast powder?

So with black powder muzzle loading shotguns it used to be a equal charge of black to lead. With cowboy action black powder loads are you guys keeping it 50/50?

Posted
21 hours ago, Edward R S Canby, SASS#59971 said:

OP, as a new shotgun reloader you need to use published loads and not experiment.  Use a single hull, primer and wad as specified in a published recipe.  These can be found in shotgun reloading manuals or online on powder distributor websites.  Shot size can vary a bit but I prefer smaller shot for CAS.  I don't know where you are going to find load data for the components you possess and recommend you put them aside for now.  I prefer loading in tapered hulls (AAs or Remingtons).   I get most of these free from shooters who do not reload.  You probably can get some the same way.  Most 209 shotgun primers are currently available so you can buy whatever your load calls for.  Likewise plastic wads are also available.  I recommend you select a load using a 3/4 or 7/8 oz wad.   Many fast-burning shotgun powders will make good, light loads.  Selection is currently poor as much powder is being loaded in military munitions.  Of what can be bought today I think Hodgdon's Perfect Pattern is most suitable for light loads.  If you load below published minimum loads you may experience poor ignition in cold weather.

 

The above is good advice. I'm a shotshell reloader, I've reloaded skeet and hunting loads before the shift to non-toxic. I was buying my shotshells until what was available was just too much shell for my shoulder. 

Beware or at least question other cowboy loads that vary significantly from published data. There are many good manuals, and I seem to use my Lyman manuals a lot, and the data on the Hodgdon site is useful as well. 

A bit of theory:

  • A subsonic load will have less recoil, no sonic boom at the muzzle. In addition patterns are consistent.
  • A one ounce load is easier to make subsonic than a 3/4 ounce load. IMHO a one ounce load subsonic will feel lighter than a 3/4 ounce load that is supersonic. 
  • As stated above, in the data, look for a powder that has a range of loads,  IOW a load that has low and high velocity loads. Not all powders work at reduced loads. Shotshells below about half max pressure tend to have ignition and other issues. Max pressure for 12 ga 2 3/4 is 11,500 psi. Half is just under 6,000 psi. Coincidently, Black Powder shotshells run at about 9,000 psi max. AFAIK. 
  • Because, as powder charges are reduced, the powder chamber gets wider and shorter, bulky powders work best. Clays, Red Dot and 700X are flake and bulky powders. 
  • As the load (amount of shot) is decreased, the burn rate of the powder used needs to be faster, to maintain good pressure.
  • 3/4 and 7/8 wads are a bit spindly in the legs, I prefer to use a wad like the WWAA and put cardboard filler disk in the bottom of the shot cup. In addition, I can usually find them cheap at gunshows. Old plastic wads can get brittle, squeeze a few, don't buy if the pedals break off. 

I use several criteria to test my loads. I sometimes chronograph, and I plan on buying a Garmin and do more. My old Chrony is a bit finicky on shotshells. The speed of sound varies with altitude and temperature, but if you can get below 1125 fps your load will be subsonic. I also look down the barrel to check how clean the bore stays. Lots of debris is a sign of poor ignition or an unsuitable powder. Clays was introduced as a clean burning powder and it usually lives up to that claim. It is also hard to find, hasn't been made in years, but is listed as out of stock, IOW not discontinued yet. 

 

Hint: select a WWAA or WWHS hull, of one that had similar internal shape. Pretty much every plastic wad is made to be compatible with a tapered hull. If you use them in a straight walled hull, you may have issues.

 

BB

  • Thanks 1
Posted (edited)
On 12/18/2024 at 10:49 AM, Nickle said:

 

So with black powder muzzle loading shotguns it used to be a equal charge of black to lead. With cowboy action black powder loads are you guys keeping it 50/50?

 

Since you mentioned it, I too want to test some loads with BP. I have limited experience with the black stuff, but a 50/50 load is about max. Once the volume of powder exceeds the volume of shot, the patterns go for a poop. I've seen suggestions for using a one ounce dipper for shot and a 7/8 oz dipper for powder. 

 

I'd like to use a plastic wad, but don't want a bunch of plastic burned onto the bore. I'm thinking of using a WW Red and perhaps using a card over the powder first. I may just go with cards and fibers, but they may have issues in a tapered hull. That is not good, as I have trashed all the Federal/Cheddite hulls I had. I have some paper hulls, but don't yet have a roll crimper. But on the plus side, I did buy a # of FF Schuetzen for testing.

 

Addendum: If you download the LEE Dipper chart, it lists weights for Black Powder. 

 

https://leeprecision.com/files/instruct/Dippers.pdf

LEEDippersBlackPowder.thumb.JPG.0b882b2dda0a48cb84911d05a91704f0.JPG

 

One Dram is 27.34 grains. 

 

If you have lead shot scoops, this chart gives you the drams of BP

 

Ounces of shot ~

Drams of black powder ~ Grains of black powder ~
1 oz. 2-1/2 drams 68.4 grains
1-1/8 oz. 2-3/4 drams 75.2 grains
1-1/4 oz. 3 drams 82.0 grains
1-3/8 oz. 3-1/4 drams 88.6 grains
1-1/2 oz. 3-1/2 drams 95.7 grains
Edited by "Big Boston"
  • Thanks 1
Posted

The black powder load I use works well for me, your results may vary. 
 

I reload AA hulls until they start to crack at the crimp folds. I then cut the folds off and use them once for black powder before throwing away. 
 

I use a 7/8 oz Mec charge bar with a #36 powder bushing. It drops roughly 34 grs of 3Fg APP powder. I use 2 nitro cards, 1/2” fiber wad, the shot charge, and an overshot card. I then roll crimp them on a drill press with the Ballistic Products roll crimp tool. 
 

I like the fiber wads so I don’t have the plastic in the bore. I also like the roll crimps because I can differentiate between black and smokeless (plus they look really cool). 

  • Like 2
Posted

Don't worry too much about plastic in the bore with BP. A spritz of Windex w/vinegar, let set and rotate a few minutes, push a quarter sheet of paper towel down from the breach. Usually shiny clean and faster/easier than smokeless.

About 40gr of 2 or 3F, a 7/8oz gray CB 0178-12 wad and 7/8 oz of #8. Velocity is under 1000 and minimal recoil. The targets go down!

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, Nickle said:

...So with black powder muzzle loading shotguns it used to be a equal charge of black to lead. With cowboy action black powder loads are you guys keeping it 50/50?

That will work but some of us have determined that a little more shot and less powder gives a tighter pattern.  Also, in modern shotguns, a plastic wad will give a tighter pattern, although others still use fiber wads okay.  The plastic leaves a film in the bore but it is very easily cleaned unless your bore is pitted.

 

For all brass shells, I clean them the same way as pistol brass.  No cleaning for plastic hulls, though I've been known to take some steel wool to the base if it is real dark.  There are many ways to clean the BP brass, and they pretty much all work.  Water alone will stop them from corroding, adding other ingredients may get them a bit cleaner to start with.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
On 12/17/2024 at 6:22 PM, Edward R S Canby, SASS#59971 said:

Those LNLR AA hulls reload well.  I reload them 8-10 times for clays.  I also reload Remington Gun Clubs one time with smokeless and then one more time with black powder.  After that I trash them.  Black powder burns hot and makes crimps brittle.  Before you buy once-fired hulls for ~20-cents each, do some dumpster diving at local clays ranges for reloadable hulls and ask local CAS shooters for donations.  I am about to donate about six hundred AA hulls a club member who is in need of new hulls.  You can load standard velocity shotgun shells with your Titegroup.  See the Hodgdon website for recipes.

 

I'm a new shooter and shotgun reloader as well and here is a recent thread I started on reloading TiteGroup with Rem Gun Club loads.  

 

 

A lot of good information in the thread on reloading shotshell and specific recipes.  

 

Here's the final recipe that I'll be sticking with.  It's a slightly milder load than the original Remington GC Target factory load.  I like it.

  • - Remington Green Gun Club 2 3/4"
  • - Winchester 209 primer
  • - TiteGroup, ~16 gr (#16 MEC bushing)
  • - 12ga, 7/8 oz, WAA12L CB0178-12 (grey),  gave me the extra 1/8" for a full shell stack and tight crimp over 1oz wad
  • - 1 oz, #7.5 soft lead shot

 

Edit ** this is almost identical to the Hodgdon published load except I changed the wad for a tighter crimp/stack.  As recommended in this thread I wanted to use a published recipe but my crimp was a little too loose and the wad change fixed it. 

 

Note that it's costing me ~$9 / box to reload using this recipe with my shells and current component prices but I was able to purchase new Remington GC Low-recoil Target loads for $8 / box on sale last week.   There are times when reloading makes sense but if you can find this stuff on sale it makes sense to shoot new shells.  keep your options open. 

 

My biggest savings is definitely reloading pistol/rifle cartridges along with all the options for bullet/powder.  No comparison.  Shotgun is more about availability since I'm shooting almost a standard low-recoil recipe.  Cost is normally almost the same at the Target load end given the cost of Primers / lead currently.

 

Edited by Dred Bob
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted

I highly recommend you get a copy of Lyman's 5th Edition Shotshell Reloading Handbook.   It will steer you toward a good smokeless recipes with selections depending on hull, powder, wad & primer.  While I generally only use Win LNLR for my smokeless loads in WB & cowboy, & when I can't find them I load with a "Downrange" bio-degradable wad that matches the Remington RXP wad, as I'm using Remington hulls.  In order to drop the velocity from about 1145 fps to under 1K, I use a "load reducer" calculator and lighten up on the compression I use on the wad while I'm loading to ensure a good crimp.  

 

I've been reloading my black powder shotshells in CAS since 1986.  I use my once fired AA (red) hulls, a Claybusters CB1138-12 wad, a #37 Mec bushing for about 40 grains of 2F, a Win 209 primer and minimal compression.  I think my current charge bar is a 7/8 oz, but might be 1 oz... it's been a long time since I've bothered to change anything.  When I first started I used a #43 bushing for about 60 grains, but didn't need that much ooomph!  The lighter charge takes down targets just as well, and my shoulder likes the lighter charge also!

  • Like 2
Posted
On 12/18/2024 at 12:05 PM, Eyesa Horg said:

Don't worry too much about plastic in the bore with BP. A spritz of Windex w/vinegar, let set and rotate a few minutes, push a quarter sheet of paper towel down from the breach. Usually shiny clean and faster/easier than smokeless.

About 40gr of 2 or 3F, a 7/8oz gray CB 0178-12 wad and 7/8 oz of #8. Velocity is under 1000 and minimal recoil. The targets go down!

Do you know which MEC bushing throws around 40 grains so I know around what numbers to check out and/or buy if needed? I plan on shooting the 7/8 oz shot with either the gray or pink wad, depending on which one crimps the best.

 

TM

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
6 minutes ago, Texas Maverick said:

Do you know which MEC bushing throws around 40 grains so I know around what numbers to check out and/or buy if needed? I plan on shooting the 7/8 oz shot with either the gray or pink wad, depending on which one crimps the best.

 

TM

Honestly, I don't remember. Been using a separate measure and pouring in with funnel, then onto my Grabber. For the amount of them I use in a year, I don't want to readjust my adjustable bar. 

I weigh a 3.1 cc dipper full a couple times and then adjust the measure accordingly. Give it take a tad depending on how I feel at the moment!!

 

I also went with the pink wad and tweak if needed for a good crimp. Usually just a tad adjustment on wad pressure does the trick for me.

Edited by Eyesa Horg
Added text
  • Like 1
Posted
2 minutes ago, Eyesa Horg said:

Honestly, I don't remember. Been using a separate measure and pouring in with funnel, then onto my Grabber. For the amount of them I use in a year, I don't want to readjust my adjustable bar. 

I weigh a 3.1 cc dipper full a couple times and then adjust the measure accordingly. Give it take a tad depending on how I feel at the moment!!

thanks, I just purchased a second MEC 9000 which will be for APP only. From what I am reading it sounds like I need around a #37 bushing so that is a start to see how much it really throws in the MEC 9000. 

 

TM

  • Like 2
Posted
6 minutes ago, Texas Maverick said:

thanks, I just purchased a second MEC 9000 which will be for APP only. From what I am reading it sounds like I need around a #37 bushing so that is a start to see how much it really throws in the MEC 9000. 

 

TM

I checked back in my records from 10 years ago when I loaded  them on a 600 jr. 

Using 40gr of  2F Goex, I used the #36 bushing. So you're #37 should be fine. Just adjust the amount of shot to get a good crimp.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted
On 12/17/2024 at 10:42 AM, Nickle said:

I'VE never had anything to do with loading shotshells. I'm just getting set up now for it.

I have a press and probably not the right wads that came with the press.

 

There are many brands and models of presses, it would be helpful if you named the press and posted a picture. Some presses are a bit easier to use than others.  

On 12/17/2024 at 10:42 AM, Nickle said:

Can you recommend any combinations?

 

The loads needed for Cowboy Action are not very powerful. Our game doesn't require a lot of shot, nor does it require very high velocity. Most if not all reloading manuals list performance loads, IOW loads for hunting and loads for trap and skeet. Sometimes they will list loads for young and/or smaller shooters. Those are the loads that Cowboys want. 

 

As a beginner, it's probably best if you followed some book load recipes. 

On 12/17/2024 at 10:42 AM, Nickle said:

I have some really old factory 12 gauge 2 and three quarters Canadian tire field loads that have tapered head inside and some from home hardware that are tapered.  The home hardware ones are so old the heads are wood on inside if you cut case in half. 

 

This has been covered, but to reiterate, try and use a bit higher end hull. Canadian Tire branded shotshells are pretty low end stuff. Not mentioned, but important IMO is that the hulls have a brass head. Once the primer is removed, check with a magnet. This will seperate the solid brass stuff from the brass plated steel hulls. The silver headed shells can be culled just by looking at them. 

On 12/17/2024 at 10:42 AM, Nickle said:

I have two types of wads

Some are Winchester #waa12f114 

Second type that I have alot of are not marked  but are  much shorter than the Winchester wads.both types of wads are for non tapered cases.

 

The WAA12F114 is a Winchester Field wad, intended for 1 1/4 oz field loads. All Winchester wads are compatible with taper walled hulls. If you were to post a picture of the mystery wad, someone should be able to help. Back in the day, when one piece plastic wads were coming into their own, the tapered wall/straight wall thing was more of an issue. Some hulls were listed as not reloadable because the one piece wads would jam in and the pressure would do funky things to a gun. I saw an 870 with the lifter hanging out of the bottom of the gun. Today, I believe all one piece wads are undersized enough to be OK in most of the tapered hulls. That leaves the other issue, using these wads in a straight walled case. Some wads are so undersized at the gas seal that in a straight walled case powder will leak past the seal and you'll get a blooper. Worst case a wad will stick in the barrel and if you shoot another shot with it in their, the barrel will bulge. Yes, I have done that. 

 

If in doubt, measure the gas seal with a caliper. 

On 12/17/2024 at 10:42 AM, Nickle said:

If I'm shooting extremely light smokeless for indoor range will the wads matter? Example cornmeal for a filler. Probably hand weigh light powder charges.  Maybe use corrugated cardboard disks to get length right?

 

Corrugated cardboard is a poor choice, I make my own with an Arch punch and use thicker cardboard. I go to thrift stores and buy the childrens books that have thick cardboard pages. I found a Toy Story book, multi paged and thick stock, app 0.040", or a bit over 1mm thick in Canada speak. I use an arch punch sized to make a wad that fits in the bottom of the shot cup. I've found this to be a good way to adjust for a good crimp.

On 12/17/2024 at 10:42 AM, Nickle said:

It's in a Brazilian double chambered for 12 garage 3 inch magnums.  

I only want really  light 2 and 3 quarters  cowboy loads.

 

BB

 

PS: I've already chimed in, and when I went back to see what Nickle had posted, I could see that not all of his questions had been addressed. 

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted
3 hours ago, "Big Boston" said:

 

There are many brands and models of presses, it would be helpful if you named the press and posted a picture. Some presses are a bit easier to use than others.  

 

The loads needed for Cowboy Action are not very powerful. Our game doesn't require a lot of shot,  Sometimes they will list loads for young and/or smaller shooters. Those are the loads that Cowboys want. 

 

As a beginner, it's probably best if you followed some book load recipes.

 

This has been covered, but to reiterate, try and use a bit higher end hull. Canadian Tire branded shotshells are pretty low end stuff. Not mentioned, but important IMO is that the hulls have a brass head. Once the primer is removed, check with a magnet. This will seperate the solid brass stuff from the brass plated steel hulls. The silver headed shells can be culled just by looking at them. 

 

The WAA12F114 is a Winchester Field wad, intended for 1 1/4 oz field loads. All Winchester wads are compatible with taper walled hulls. If you were to post a picture of the mystery wad, someone should be able to help. Back in the day, when one piece plastic wads were coming into their own, the tapered wall/straight wall thing was more of an issue. Some hulls were listed as not reloadable because the one piece wads would jam in and the pressure would do funky things to a gun. I saw an 870 with the lifter hanging out of the bottom of the gun. Today, I believe all one piece wads are undersized enough to be OK in most of the tapered hulls. That leaves the other issue, using these wads in a straight walled case. Some wads are so undersized at the gas seal that in a straight walled case powder will leak past the seal and you'll get a blooper. Worst case a wad will stick in the barrel and if you shoot another shot with it in their, the barrel will bulge. Yes, I have done that. 

 

If in doubt, measure the gas seal with a caliper. 

 

Corrugated cardboard is a poor choice, I make my own with an Arch punch and use thicker cardboard. I go to thrift stores and buy the childrens books that have thick cardboard pages. I found a Toy Story book, multi paged and thick stock, app 0.040", or a bit over 1mm thick in Canada speak. I use an arch punch sized to make a wad that fits in the bottom of the shot cup. I've found this to be a good way to adjust for a good crimp.

 

 

 

 

I have a mec 600 jr with I forget the charge bar but probably the biggest one for heavy waterfowl loads

I also have a very old but still new Lee load all with all the bushings. 

The Winchester was I have are really old. I can tell by tje price on them. 

They are definitely not tapered 

In the picture you see the two types of straight wads. 

The red was were not in original bag so I don't know what they are.

I have measured both wads with calipers and they are straight wall.

I haven't shopped for components yet but everything for rifles seems hard to get.

Example I did buy some shotgun primers basically just because it's good to buy gun stuff when you have the chance.  These are cheddite type 209

Brands like federal or Winchester forget it. Last pistol primers I bought came from Bosnia. 

I have a shotgun reloading manual in the basement  but it doesn't have any loads for components that I have. 

I have been loading antique obsolete cartridges with non published data most of my life. Just not with shotguns.  

Dred Bob posted a pretty good looking smokeless load. I'm going to see if I can source components for it.

Toates Mygoats also listed some factory light loads that I'm going to see if I can by locally. 

I'm in Alberta and shipping stuff like ammo or powder is way to expensive. 

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