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Posted

Both those wads are Winchester, and they are taper hull compatible. If you measure the gas seal it will be less than 0.740, which is the ID of a straight walled hull. 

 

I just measured a AA Red, like the top one in your picture and it is 0.705". The AA12F114 I measured is a few thou smaller, about 0.702. Full choke on a 12 gauge is around 0.694". The card and the associated fiber wads made by Circle Fly for 12 gauge are 0.740" in diameter. Those are for straight walled hulls. 

 

Most shotshell reloaders just hit the easy button, use AA hulls, Winchester wads, a MEC reloader and never dig any deeper than that. I've done a bit of reloading outside those boundaries, and things can get interesting. For our game, sticking to AA hulls, Winchester wads and a MEC (BTW I prefer a Sizemaster but still use my 600 Jr, the old version). Claybuster wads are commonly available, and they make substitute Winchester wads, they are not the same. I don't mind paying more for the real thing. Always check the size and pliability of your wads, I've had bad Winchesters as well. 

 

I get the feeling that you are a newbie, besides watching the Youtube stuff I'd suggest reading a few manuals as well.  I've attached a download of an older Lyman to get you started.Lyman Shotshell Handbook - 3rd Edition - 1984.pdf 

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Posted

Hi Nickle and Welcome,

 

If I might add to this conversation. I use a Lee Load-all Shotgun shell loader. I do not trust the bushings to load my loads so I do that by scale and by hand. I use the Winchester Low recoil and Low noise shells as I used them during the matches. My loads that work well for me in a Stoeger Side by Side look like this:

 

Winchester AA shells with Winchester 209 primers. #7.5 shot, CB1100-12 wads which are replacements for the WAA12SL wads which are good for 7/8-1oz loads. The powder is Winchester Super Handicap.  I'm able to find all of these products locally at reasonable prices here on the Western side of Michigan.

 

After much experimentation I load 17.3/17.5 grains of powder and .96oz or roughly 420 grains of #7.5 shot.   1oz of lead shot = 437 grains.

 

The Lee Load-all allows de-priming and brass resizing. Then primer setting.

I pour 17.3/17.5 grains of powder into the shell and then set the wad down on the powder.

I then place a 20 gauge card in,on top of the wad base and before the lead shot.

Then load 420 grains of the #7.5 shot. Then crimp the top.

 

The load is easy on the shoulder and knocks the targets down easily. I fine the powder a little dirty, but easy to clean out after a match. Around my area Red Dot, Unique, Clays or Titewad is NOT available at all. I use Tightgroup or Red Dot or Unique for my .45 Colt loads (Rifle and Revolver). I have precious little left of these powders. About a half pound of Red Dot and Unique, with 1 pound of Tightgroup. So the little I do use on the .45 Colt will last at least one more year.

 

I hope this helped = Kidd Carson

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Posted

Some comments for the OP:

  1. Cheddite 209 primers work well with most shotguns used for CAS.  They are all I load my CAS shotshells with, both smokeless and black powder.
  2. There are many new shotgun powders available that may not be listed in your manual in the basement.  Powder distributors have both booklets listing current load data.  These are free at many sporting goods stores.  The same information is available on their websites.
  3. Those red wads look like the ones I use for my black powder loads.  They leave ample volume for black powder but way too much volume for a light smokeless load.
  4. Your "white" wads look yellowish - like they are old.  Are they brittle?  I got a bag of old plastic wads from the sixties that looked the same.  They were so brittle I had to toss them.
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