Jump to content
SASS Wire Forum

Dred Bob

Members
  • Posts

    65
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Previous Fields

  • SASS #
    113723
  • SASS Affiliated Club
    Sandusky County Regulators

Profile Information

  • Location
    Toledo, OH

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Dred Bob's Achievements

49

Reputation

  1. Smokie, Im interested in the 66'. I'm new to CAS / SASS so excuse me if some of these questions seem silly. I'm not familiar with the 66's but I like the looks of yours. Is it an Uberti? Does it run similar to a 73'? Does it share any of the internal parts with the 73's? Is this a good gun to compete with? Right now I have a 73 that was sold to me at a match and I was told it was Longhunter tuned but I've had several issues that I've had to work through. in fairness the rifle was older and well used. It jammed frequently and I ended up changing the block. It was missing a lever safety which I didn't like so I had to figure out how to replace that. I really don't need another "project" gun. Is this a good rifle for a starting shooter or should it be left to somebody that can tinker with it?
  2. I'm new to SASS shooting, just joined last Fall with a buddy. We participated in the Ohio State shoot this year and had a chance to join in the fun she brought to the match with side events. What a Hoot. She and Blue brought an energy and light-hearted fun to the weekend. People laughing, competing, thoroughly enjoying themselves trying to compete AND perform. Shooting a Sasquatch chasing a cowboy down a ramp while sitting on a Unicorn? Team alternate timed shooting while snuggled up back to back in a Hula Hoop and spinning around? They really brought it and added to what was already a fun match. Took it to a different level. Her spirit and enthusiasm were apparent and infectious even to us Noob's. I'm sorry for the loss to her family and SASS community. I was looking forward to seeing what they brought next.
  3. bought from them many times over the years. Never any issues and always a good price. I buy local if they have it and are remotely competitive but I've never had any issues from Bud's. They drop ship from the mfg or distributer but I've never had a single issue and all deliveries have been fast and reliable. I assume with any gun purchase that if there is an issue that I have to take that up with the mfg anyway. I wouldn't hesitate to buy from them.
  4. I loved reading his books and articles even before I joined SASS and had a reason to bring history to my shooting hobby. His passing will be a big loss and void.
  5. Filing this area down on the end of the gate helped a lot. It wasn't opening as far as it could and removing a little material allowed to open more so that cartridges could slide in easier Thanks for that one LH.
  6. PM sent and many thanks. My finger also thanks you in advance for saving me both the pain and indignation.
  7. I removed the Slix hammer spring assy. This is what is underneath. The pin you you identified has a small spring on it doing nothing. So it looks like I just need the safety bar from Boogie and install it on that pin with the spring tensioned on top.
  8. That's what I was hoping for! I *might* be qualified but not guaranteed. I'm willing to try remove it just to install the safety lever and spring? or remove it and replace it with a different system?
  9. pictures of the lever and lower tang. If I can figure out if original parts will work I'd like to try that before sending it out somewhere. If so, what parts are needed.
  10. I've created a couple of threads on this rifle. I just joined SASS and shot my first match late last year. I purchased a used 73' at one of the last matches that was tuned and stroked and the price was reasonable. I'm not blaming the seller for my issues post sale but my own inexperience and familiarity with these rifles. I've had a few issues with it but stuff I can work through and I'm learning a lot which has value to me. I didn't know that these rifles had a built-in lever safety and therefore didn't catch that this rifle's was removed. I've come to the personal conclusion that I'm not comfortable shooting it without the safety and for me whatever benefits might exist don't outweigh the risks of running it sans safety. I understand help is limited without pictures and details about the specific modifications (which I don't really know) all I can say is that it was worked on. I can provide pictures if that is helpful but thought I'd get some feedback on what I'm getting into first. Is this probably a simple fix of dropping in a couple of parts or does the process of tuning or short stroking generally mean that the safety has to be removed and the two things are mutually exclusive (you can have a safety or you can have a short stroked rifle). I don't have a local gunsmith experienced with these 73's. I've received a lot great information here so thought I'd start with the forum first.
  11. I actually enjoy the additional challenge of shooting WB with the original style A1 sights. Aside from the original plastic grips I love it just the way it is. It's a great reproduction if you can't afford an original service pistol. For a little more you can purchase a more modern Tisas 1911 with better or target sights but if you're looking for an A1 reproduction I don't feel you can do better at any price let alone the $300 you can pick these up for. I think they even have a $10 upgrade for the A1 with wood grips instead of the cheap plastic ones. I've seen the A1 packaged a couple of different ways. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend these guns and I'm very pleased and surprised with the quality.
  12. Love the A1 I bought for wild bunch. solid gun, groups great or as good as I can aim A1 sights. Perfect match for Wild Bunch. As Cyprus said the stock grips were cheap but $30 on Amazon and I had some great service style grips for WB. I bought 2 more Tisas I liked the first so much. My Custom Bullseye Springfield sits at home for WB matches.
  13. I can't find the old Carrier at the moment, suffering from CRS (Can't Remember S***). The worn carrier was missing material in the center beveled area between the red and green arrows. The cartridge was dropping lower into that beveled area and the rim catching and jamming at the most rearward point of travel. it was stopping the bolt from completing the cycle rearward and sticking with the cartridge wedged up at a 45d angle when running the lever quickly. The new carrier seems to have fixed that issue since it has more material in the bevelled area. I haven't shot it much since the *Fix* but it was happening consistently 1-2 times every stage during competition. Next step is to work on that gate as recommended. If the gate is able to open wider I think the cartridges will load much easier. Seems like the easiest next step anyway. This has been a good learning experience. I'm learning that Jim and the rest of these guys tuning these rifles are earning their pay.
  14. I'll try to catchup with recent posts. I reached out to Jim at Long Hunter first when I identified the problem and he replied and has been incredibly helpful although I didn't want to drag him too deep unless I send it to him to completely rework (which I still might). I was *told* the rifle was Long Hunter tuned when I bought it but there's no way for me to know if that was true or not or to what extent he did the work and I think it is an older rifle with a lot of miles on it. It is .38/.357. The top of the block was very very worn where the cartridge rim scrapes along the top/rear edge of the carrier during ejection. When I eject a cartridge, about 1-2 times per magazine full the lever would jam at the bottom with a cartridge stuck at a 45d angle trapped between the bolt and carrier block. A quick jiggle and it would release but of course when shooting a stage it completely wrecks your rhythm and time when it jams a couple of times during the stage even though you can clear it. A friend of mine just purchased a new rifle from Long Hunter with the FULL action work. He had all the original parts removed from his rifle so I did attempt to go back to an original block but that wouldn't cycle at all. I have no idea why but it was a total no-go. Jim resells an identical looking "Pioneer" block so I ordered one because to all appearances my problem was only because of the wear on the top of the carrier. I got the new carrier block in and it looked identical but when I replaced it the bolt was dragging and sticking. My calipers showed that the carrier walls were several .001's thicker than the one I pulled so I just filed it out until the bolt stopped dragging. That allowed the rifle to cycle smoothly. I did take the rifle to a match last weekend and it did not jam and no issues with feeding it during cycling. Back to the remaining problem with loading. Cartridges loaded pretty smooth/easily with the original block but with the new block they have to be pushed hard to get them to feed into the tube. My guess was that the thicker carrier walls wasn't allowing the cartridge to feed "around the corner" but Jim followed up and indicated that the gate may be rubbing on the block and not opening all the way and that sometimes you need to file some material off the bottom of the gate. I'm going to take a look and see if it's the gate or if I need to remove a little more material off of the inside of the block where the nose of the cartridge might be rubbing. Maybe a sharpie or some paint on a bullet tip will show were to file. I'm very close to having this rifle back in the groove. I did get a reply from "Willshootem" at Pioneer Gun Works and again "Very Helpful". He did indicate that his supplier is very good with quality but they have had a few occasions where product dimensions were off and did require some filing. I don't know which carrier is correct but there is a definite measurable difference between my old and the new so having to take a file to the new one seems more reasonable now. I feel a little better that I'm not creating more trouble for myself or doing something that could ultimately make the gun a safety concern. I'm going to go back through the thread and see if there was anything I missed but I really appreciate all the replies and help. I don't want to be a gunsmith but I do like knowing how they work and there's a certain amount of DiY that I think you need to be able to do with this hobby. There's also a line somewhere that I don't want to cross. I'm amazed and appreciative by how helpful everybody has been with SASS, from the local guys at the matches to the guys here online and the vendors like Jim and 'Will...'. The amount of support adds to the fun and participation. It's not just showing up on Saturday and pulling a trigger.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.