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Tennessee williams

Any car guys on here?

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5 minutes ago, JP McLintock said:

It was, but neither of the engines were overly powerful, it would probably hold up as long as the beatings are few and far between.

You're right again. The GNX was powerful for a mid to late 80s car but nothing like what we're talking about now.

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4 minutes ago, Assassin said:

Yeah, if you must make extensive modifications install a newer 6 speed manual out of a late 90's or early 2000's camaro or firebird.

I had thought about that. Even talked to silversport transmission about having one built but dang, I can buy a lot of cowboy guns for that dough. Way too much to change over on the car too. I work too much. Or atleast I am at work too much.

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Or better yet keep the turbo 350 and swap the 3.90's for a set of 3.00's, made a world of difference in my double nickle Ford, able to cruise freeway speeds and still goes from light to lite quite well.

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7 hours ago, Captain Bill Burt said:

First thing I do when I crank her up is turn on rev match (6 speed manual).  Then I go to Track mode, then I turn off all the nannies.  That way I get all 455 hp and tq with no coddling. 


 

Yeah, but it’s still NOT a ‘65 Chevelle.......

 

Just sayin’

 

Good to see my friends do what they enjoy, whatever that may be.

 

I’ve never been a car guy. Trucks and tractors for me. And Ive generally always drove like a farmer checking his fences, regardless what I’m in or where I’m going. I’ve been known to be “that guy” that slows down to :!$& people off that are in a hurry, but only on county, country roads. 
 

If I could have a dream car though, 66 or 67 Chevelle, or a 69 Mustang, but it would be like the motorcycle I had and sit and degrade cause there’s too much else to do. So for now I’ll plug along in my 220,000 mile F250 and figure if I want to restore my tractor and keep it, then get back into horses, or restore it and sell it, replace with a newish one and forget the horses.....

 

 

Mr Williams, let us know what you do and put up some pictures of your car. We’d like to see it.

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Don't know if you can hear it on this video. 1st startup and carb adjustment.

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Sounds good. You seriously gonna roll that bad boy with 4 wheel drum brakes and a single pot master? Brave, very brave.

As far as the 200R4 is concerned, properly built, it will stand up to your engine. I've put them behind some really stout small block and big block Chevys including a few 572s. Notice I said "properly built". The ones I installed were done by California Performance Transmissions (that would be Art Carr himself). The key to the hydraulic GM auto-overdrives is the the TV cable adjustment. It's critical that it is adjusted properly and the carb bellcrank pulls the cable correctly.

In your application, gas mileage isn't the goal, but driveability will go way up.

There is the option of going with the 4L70/75/80 transmission, but as stated, you'll need to run a wire harness and computer with it and the computer will require "tuning". There some good systems out there, and there are some not so good ones, too. Generally, by the time you get one of the computer transmissions gone through, get the right parts, converter and electronics set up and dialed in, you could do a 5 speed for about the same price. 

Don't even worry about the six speeds. Nobody needs a double overdrive transmission if everything else is planned out right.

 

Oh, as far as that rear suspension is concerned, check out Global West https://www.globalwest.net/

I knew these guys back in the day and they have a well designed product and really know their stuff.

 

Hope that helps.

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40 minutes ago, Hendo said:

Sounds good. You seriously gonna roll that bad boy with 4 wheel drum brakes and a single pot master? Brave, very brave.

As far as the 200R4 is concerned, properly built, it will stand up to your engine. I've put them behind some really stout small block and big block Chevys including a few 572s. Notice I said "properly built". The ones I installed were done by California Performance Transmissions (that would be Art Carr himself). The key to the hydraulic GM auto-overdrives is the the TV cable adjustment. It's critical that it is adjusted properly and the carb bellcrank pulls the cable correctly.

In your application, gas mileage isn't the goal, but driveability will go way up.

There is the option of going with the 4L70/75/80 transmission, but as stated, you'll need to run a wire harness and computer with it and the computer will require "tuning". There some good systems out there, and there are some not so good ones, too. Generally, by the time you get one of the computer transmissions gone through, get the right parts, converter and electronics set up and dialed in, you could do a 5 speed for about the same price. 

Don't even worry about the six speeds. Nobody needs a double overdrive transmission if everything else is planned out right.

 

Oh, as far as that rear suspension is concerned, check out Global West https://www.globalwest.net/

I knew these guys back in the day and they have a well designed product and really know their stuff.

 

Hope that helps.

4 wheel disc break setup is in the works! I've checked out the CPT website and it looks promising but didn't know if they were blowing smoke or not. Thanks for the link for global west. I'll check them out.

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This was my baby until bad hips stopped me from being able to enjoy driving her. 69 Mach1, 351, 4spd, traction-loc rear. Was sad to see her go, but she went to a good home and is parked beside an all original Thunder Bolt.

2.JPG

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15 hours ago, Tennessee williams said:

I had thought about that. Even talked to silversport transmission about having one built but dang, I can buy a lot of cowboy guns for that dough. Way too much to change over on the car too. I work too much. Or atleast I am at work too much.

 

First, I’ll pass along a saying that an old engine builder and Pro Stock drag racer friend of mine gifted me with.

 

”You don’t always get what you pay for, but you don’t NEVER get what you don’t pay for unless you steal it or somebody gives it to you!!!”

 

Your best choice, given that you don’t want to use ECM controls, is to go to the 700R4 out of a V8 3/4 ton pickup.  The BEST one is the one for a 4x4 truck. It features an extreme duty transmission case.

 

You’ll need to discard the output shaft and replace it with the 2WD version and the 2WD tailshaft housing. This will let you use your existing driveshaft and slip yoke, although you MAY need to have the driveshaft shortened.  It also gives you a hookup for the speedometer.

 

Have the transmission overhauled by a competent racing transmission builder, (I know several and Schoolmarm and I will be happy to hook you up!) Have them install the Corvette front pump. It’s worth the money. Explain to the builder what you’re building and be sure to have him install a good valve body and a deep truck style pan and filter. 

 

Finally, have a torque converter built for your application.  Off the shelf and speed shop units seldom hold up. The lockup clutch or TCC will usually fall within a couple hundred miles of hard use. (Again! I can hook you up.)

 

I’ve seen this combination stand up behind 1,000 hp engines in cars of similar size and weight.  IT WORKS!!

 

Jesse! This is a lot like having a rifle or shotgun built for SASS!  It hurts now, but you’ll save a ton of money and lots of aggravation in the long run!!

 

 I can give you some inexpensive fixes for your rear suspension too!!

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now ya got me wanting to do something with the 54 5 window Chevy pu , out in the barn 

seems a shame to break it apart , and replace the org 4 speed auto , in it that works 

1 st year of an auto trans in a Chevy up . gotta replace the rear end to boot , has a closed drive line 

 

  CB 

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2 hours ago, Chickasaw Bill SASS #70001 said:

now ya got me wanting to do something with the 54 5 window Chevy pu , out in the barn 

seems a shame to break it apart , and replace the org 4 speed auto , in it that works 

1 st year of an auto trans in a Chevy up . gotta replace the rear end to boot , has a closed drive line 

 

  CB 

I just so happen to need a 5 window:D

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Get a powerglide with a gear vendors overdrive. Split gears for 4 speed. 

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11 hours ago, Mister Badly said:

My nanner split recovery machine

IMG_20200521_135244.jpg

I think there's room for me, next time you make a run. I'll ride shotgun for ya!

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On 5/21/2020 at 5:58 PM, Doc X said:

Knew a guy back in the day with a V8 shoehorned into a Gremlin. Funny thing, nobody that ever ran him ever laughed about Gremilns again.

 

Some came from the factory with 304 V8s. A long time ago I had a 70 Mustang with a 302 Windsor, Comp Cams cam, decent heads, 650 Holley and a C4 with B&M shift kit. Not the fastest thing, but plenty quick. I once had an ugly purple Gremlin X with a built 304 launches so fast and so hard he had me by a couple of car links before I realized what was going on.

Of course, I also had it set up for handling stabilizer bars front and rear, low profile (for the day) tires, export brace, etc... Hey, I always preferred Trans Am and IMSA to NASCAR and NHRA! OK, I've always been a huge Bob Glidden fan, but still, you get my point.  A friend worked at an auto parts store, and his boss wanted to race me with his Torino with 429SCJ. I said fine, so long as we went down the local twisty-turny road after, to see if he could keep up. He said that wouldn't be fair...

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Most people never knew that the AMC 401could be bolted directly into the 304 Gremlins!!  You had to use the 401 intake manifold and either split and widen the crossover on the exhaust or use headers, but outside of the Chevy small block, this was one of the easiest swaps in history!!  Worked for Jeeps of the era too!!

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I had a AMX , with the 401 , with an auto , it could clear the hole pretty well , fast off the line , not to shabby on the top 

 

  not quite as fast as the Chevelle , but pretty fair on the street , as was the 63 Chevy pu , 

 

  CB 

 

 got a Xbody F150/Ranger double badge , 460 , it has put shame on a bunch of kids that think , they got something hot 

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My previous nanner getter had a 700r4. Killed 3rd and 4th gear bands with too many high power xway on ramp merges.

2ec6c175-91e8-4e07-a956-cfaaa1edfb52.jpg

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17 hours ago, Tennessee williams said:

I think there's room for me, next time you make a run. I'll ride shotgun for ya!

Well, there are 2 Kirkey 20" seats in it.

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Let's see...

 

F350 Super Duty 4WD with 7.3 diesel, suspension issues (pulls to the right), broken mirrors. needs an oil change too. New shocks sitting in the shop.

 

VW Golf 1.8T, blown coolant hose, sitting a while so battery is dead. Needs a bunch of plastic parts. And some fuel gremlin strikes once at about 1/8 tank. It's a hoot to drive.

 

Chevy Tahoe, engine light on. Methanol sensor. Need to drop the wheel well to get to it. Also needs a new mirror and seat heater.

 

Some basic commute mobile, A/C is weak. Just needs a new check valve, evac and recharge.

 

Z28 with a rough idle, codes on secondary air injection. Need to get it up on jacks just to get to the connector to check the air pump.

 

Newest tool: Torque Pro on Samsung tablet with Veepeak bluetooth OBD2 reader.

 

Yup, I'm a car guy. If your torque and power bands fit, consider a 2-speed power glide with appropriate rear gears for highway cruising RPMs. Won't help your mileage, but do you really need more gears? Or do you just need one gear to accelerate and one more to cruise?

 

For me, it is going to start with the cam. Broad power band means fewer gears. A peaky cam will need more gears to stay "in the curve." In overly simplistic terms, you want each shift to move you from peak horsepower to peak torque, repeating as needed until max velocity is achieved.

 

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Powerglides are fantastic racing transmissions!!  I've used them and I swear by them for light weight drag cars, (2,800 lbs. and lighter).  Above 2,800 pounds, you start to reach the entry level to the laws of diminishing returns.  For a really light street car, a "glide" can still be workable, BUT!!  Newer technology and advances in transmission parts and electronics have made incredible advancements toward durability and drivability!!

 

The new OD transmissions provide a 20% or better effective ratio which increases both fuel mileage and engine life.  Add to that a good lockup torque converter and, depending on overall gear ratio, you can reduce engine RPM another 250 to 500 revs.  That's a LOT considering that if you're traveling 60 MPH, your engine turns over 250 to 500 fewer times per mile!! In a hundred mile trip that's 25,000 to 50,000 revolutions!! At 2,300 RPM and running 60 MPH the lockup converter reduces that to under 2,000 RPM, splitting the difference of 250 and 500 to an average of 375 RPM! Around a 14% reduction! 

 

My last drag car would turn the quarter mile in less than eight seconds and peak RPM was 7,200. That works out to less than 1,000 revolutions across a quarter mile distance and it should be pointed out that that's figuring running wide open for the entire distance!  Yeah, I know that I'm not counting driving from the water box to the staging beams or revs turned in the "burnout" procedure, but for a simple discussion, we can leave those figures out.

 

25,000 more turns of the crank under ideal conditions would mean a lot of extra passes on that race car!!  That also amounts to many more miles on your street car!!  

 

A LOT of laps around the Dairy Queen!!!  :lol:  :rolleyes:  B)

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Blackwater knows his stuff! 

 

That being said, I want in on the race action.  I'll bring something nasty and ill mannered (and not my former MIL)

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7 hours ago, J. Mark Flint #31954 LIFE said:

Blackwater knows his stuff! 

 

That being said, I want in on the race action.  I'll bring something nasty and ill mannered (and not my former MIL)

 

You wouldn't be talkin' 'bout THIS l'il feller, would ya'??

 

IMG_0912.jpg

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9 minutes ago, J. Mark Flint #31954 LIFE said:

Not that exact iteration, but yes, or the Buell

 

 

Yeah!  Ain’t many street cars gonna’ run with that ol’ Buell!

 

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3 hours ago, Blackwater 53393 said:

 

Yeah!  Ain’t many street cars gonna’ run with that ol’ Buell!

 

Bet I could outrun it on foot. Any takers?

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8 hours ago, Tennessee williams said:

Bet I could outrun it on foot. Any takers?

 

Yeah!!  Distance: one mile, uphill.  :ph34r: :lol:

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1 hour ago, Blackwater 53393 said:

 

Yeah!!  Distance: one mile, uphill.  :ph34r: :lol:

 No! 12 feet!

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A Buell, whats that? Something you put out to pasture to service heifers?

 

 

 

 

 

Seriously, I've never heard of a Buell......

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1 hour ago, Dirty Dan Dawkins said:

A Buell, whats that? Something you put out to pasture to service heifers?

 

 

 

 

 

Seriously, I've never heard of a Buell......

Motorcycles designed by Erik Buell.  Started as an engineer for Harley.  Designed his own frames and put souped up Sportster engines in them.  Later brought them into (semi) mass production.  His motorcycles were always a little different (or a lot depending on how you look at it).  He wanted high-performance V-twin sport bikes.  His independent effort started off pretty good and H-D bought in.  Problem as I remember it was none (or very, very few) of the Harley dealers wanted anything to do with a motorcycle that didn't look like a cruiser.  The bikes were all about performance and not creature comforts.  With lackluster backing by Harley and very little marketing, they were never the most popular.  Now they have an almost cult-like following.

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Best choice is a turbo 400, with a manual lock up converter to give you an od, plus a Hi low range gear vender for the high way. The 200 will not hold up to the 406 and the 350 is second at best. The most important  choice is the stall converter. You should have built the engine around the stall converter you use.  It is as important to the trans. as the cam is to the engine performance. 

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I’m a car guy! I run a car club at my school at Kansas State University and we have over 200+ K-State Students, just recently graduated and I’m excited to get involved in the sport of sass! 

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