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New SW Model 638


Whiskey Hicks
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Any suggestions on spring kits or what grips to put on?

 

I was looking at options on Pew Pew Tactical for springs, and I was considering a classic grip from Altamont with an additional Tyler T.

 

Or should I just break it in, leave everything stock and go for some Hogue rubber?

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Don't screw with the action unless it proves to be necessary.  It's a S&W revolver, so it ought not need any action work to be usable as a SD gun and changing the internals of a perfectly usable gun just for the sake of changing it has never made any sense to me.

 

As for the grip change, that comes down to what fits your hand and what is aesthetically pleasing to your eye.

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Change the grips? Why?

 

Those are Craig Spegel boot grips. THE BEST grip ever designed for round butt Smith & Wessons. For J frame or K frame, like Mary Poppins, they are practically perfect in every way.

 

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Edited by Alpo
otto still can't spell
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Picked a pristine Chief Special with 3" HB.   Came with rubber grips that I quickly removed to replace with classic Altamont grips complimented by a polished Tyler T-Grip I ha been saving.    Kind of retro look like it probaly would have looked back in the 60's.    Loved the look but quickly learned this old hands could not hang on as good as they used to.   Now its good the ugly (IMHO)  robber grips back on.     GW

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If you have big hands check out the Hogue monogrip. It gives you enough room for your last finger. Also, Crimson Trace makes grips for it.

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I have to ask a semi hypothetical question:

 

Why in the hell does everyone think that a new gun made by craftsman and engineers needs to be immediately changed, modified, slicked up, etc.?

 

No offense Whiskey Hicks, just venting. 
 

I would highly recommend shooting it as is and putting several hundred rounds through it in the next year. You will find that it’s darn near perfect the way it is. Don’t fry fire it, shoot it. 
 

If after 2 or 3 hundred rounds you think the grips aren’t working, then try something else. Then shoot 2 or 3 more hundred rounds and I will bet you end up back with the factory grips. 
 

Enjoy it. That looks like a nice shooter. :)

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These are the grips I have on my J frame S&W, It had "Bantam" rubber grips and it didn't fit my hand at all. at 11 ounces with +P ammo,you need proper fitting grips.

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The grip I have on my Airweight is one finger-groove longer than Major's. The little rubber factory grip was useless to me. It still packs without printing.

And I agree with the responders who say shoot it a while before changing springs. It might not need it.

Rex :D

 

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37 minutes ago, Pat Riot, SASS #13748 said:

I have always thought the model 38 or 638 would be a wonderful candidate for a 3” barrel. 

The lack of a 3" barrel version is why I don't own one.

 

I like the way a 3" carries better than the 2'.

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1 hour ago, Pat Riot, SASS #13748 said:

I have always thought the model 38 or 638 would be a wonderful candidate for a 3” barrel. 

 

24 minutes ago, Smuteye John SASS#24774 said:

The lack of a 3" barrel version is why I don't own one.

 

I like the way a 3" carries better than the 2'.

I know that most of you guys are S&W lovers, but I'm a fan of Taurus 85s. With 3" barrels. I recently found a 3" barrel on ebay, and had a 2" converted, so I now have 3 of them. 

As for the grips, I took the old Taurus "banana" style grips, cut them even with the bottom of the gripframe, and rounded them off. They handle and conceal well. 

040 - Copy.JPG

044 - Copy.JPG

Edited by Sgt. C.J. Sabre, SASS #46770
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1 hour ago, Pat Riot, SASS #13748 said:

I have always thought the model 38 or 638 would be a wonderful candidate for a 3” barrel. 

I don't agree. While a 3-inch J frame is a wonderful thing, the whole purpose of that shroud is so that you can carry the gun in your pocket and it won't get caught on the lip of your pocket when you draw it


Be mighty difficult to stick a 3"-barreled pistol in most pockets.

 

 

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On 11/6/2021 at 10:19 PM, Pat Riot, SASS #13748 said:

I have to ask a semi hypothetical question:

 

Why in the hell does everyone think that a new gun made by craftsman and engineers needs to be immediately changed, modified, slicked up, etc.?

 

No offense Whiskey Hicks, just venting. 
 

I would highly recommend shooting it as is and putting several hundred rounds through it in the next year. You will find that it’s darn near perfect the way it is. Don’t fry fire it, shoot it. 
 

If after 2 or 3 hundred rounds you think the grips aren’t working, then try something else. Then shoot 2 or 3 more hundred rounds and I will bet you end up back with the factory grips. 
 

Enjoy it. That looks like a nice shooter. :)

I hear so many things from so many people and sources, try this, don’t do that. The things I heard in reviews in particular I decided we’re pertinent enough to ask about here, as I respect the experience of my…..elders. I didn’t want to say it, but darn there’s not much of a better word.

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Both of my J frames have replacement springs in them.  But I shot them stock for about a year or so before doing anything.  I then polished the internals, and replaced the factory springs with a Wilson Combat set (made by Wolff to Wilson's specs).  As to grips, if I'm going with a belt holster, I use a set of Rogers grips on them.  If they're going on an ankle or in a pocket, they get either the factory boot grip or a set of Uncle Mike's boot grips.  Add a pair of Safariland Comp I speed loaders and I'm good to go.  

 

I've did my police qualification with both of them.  Did the full duty gun course, starting at 25 yards, instead of the backup gun course, which has only 5 rounds at 15 yards and everything else from the 7.  

642.jpg

Edited by LawMan Mark, SASS #57095L
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20 hours ago, Sgt. C.J. Sabre, SASS #46770 said:

 

I know that most of you guys are S&W lovers, but I'm a fan of Taurus 85s. With 3" barrels. I recently found a 3" barrel on ebay, and had a 2" converted, so I now have 3 of them. 

As for the grips, I took the old Taurus "banana" style grips, cut them even with the bottom of the gripframe, and rounded them off. They handle and conceal well. 

040 - Copy.JPG

044 - Copy.JPG

 

I don't have a issue with Taurus wheelguns.  Like them, especially the ones built in the '90's.  It's the shrouded hammer part that holds the most allure in the Model 38 or 638's case and Taurus' shrouded hammer gun wasn't made with a 3" barrel either.

 

19 hours ago, Alpo said:

I don't agree. While a 3-inch J frame is a wonderful thing, the whole purpose of that shroud is so that you can carry the gun in your pocket and it won't get caught on the lip of your pocket when you draw it


Be mighty difficult to stick a 3"-barreled pistol in most pockets.

 

 

I wasn't planning on pocket carrying it.  I have a little Beretta .32 bottomfeeder for that.  I'd stick a 3", shrouded hammer .38  on my hip IWB or OWB in a hot minute, though.

Edited by Smuteye John SASS#24774
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10 minutes ago, Smuteye John SASS#24774 said:

 

I don't have a issue with Taurus wheelguns.  Like them, especially the ones built in the '90's.  It's the shrouded hammer part that holds the most allure in the Model 38 or 638's case and Taurus' shrouded hammer gun wasn't made with a 3" barrel either

Taurus did make a concealed hammer Model 85. You can find parts on ebay or Gunbroker, or just bob the hammer. And I agree about the vintage Tauri as opposed to the newer guns. All mine are the older models.

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22 minutes ago, Sgt. C.J. Sabre, SASS #46770 said:

Taurus did make a concealed hammer Model 85. You can find parts on ebay or Gunbroker, or just bob the hammer. And I agree about the vintage Tauri as opposed to the newer guns. All mine are the older models.

62774642_032-Copy.thumb.JPG.63c883c38747fd7df8ca326115c55ac9.JPG

But the whole allure of the 638 or the Taurus version is the shrouded hammer!  Anybody can get a Chief's Special or a Model 85 and bob the hammer or convert it to DAO.  You could just buy the Model 60 or the Taurus version and be done wit it- and Smith did make a 3" Model 60 even if it had adjustable sights.

Edited by Smuteye John SASS#24774
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