Best parts for a '73

[One Gun Jimmy]

I'm looking to short stroke my Taylor's 1873.

 

I am 99.9% sure I have the skills...but don't have the parts.

 

I believe the super short stroke from pioneer is for sure.

 

The questions for you guys are these:

 

1. Is the pioneer coil mainspring worth it? (With the bearings)

 

2. Would you go with the pioneer action springs or the SliX springs?

 

3. Is the aluminum carrier worth it or should I modify my stock one?

 

4. Should I put the tube in the magazine to straiten .38s in the tube.

 

 I will polish all parts to about 12000grit when I'm in there.

 

My main goal is to get a short stroke and be smmoooooth...cause smooth is fast.

 

I shot a pards 73 and it was just more enjoyable, short and like butter but he isn't 100% what was done to his rifle.

[Gateway Kid SASS# 70038 Life]

You will get a huge variety of opinions as to the best short stroke, best springs, best mainspring etc. 

All I can add is what I use. 
I have had a cut and weld rifle in the past but someone wanted it more than me. Worked okay just wanted something different. 
I currently have both Pioneer SS and C&I 5th generation. I have built quite a few with those kits and both are pretty straightforward and work well. I thin and tune my own flat main springs and they have been reliable and smooth. I have used thinned lever/lifter springs, whisper springs, action springs and keep coming back to the Slix springs. I like the aluminum carriers though I have tried the lightened brass. Aluminum is still a bit lighter. Biggest difference I have found is aluminum wears faster, brass lasts pretty much forever. I recently broke down and installed a couple of the liners from Longhunter and while I had no problems before they seem just a touch smoother now. BTW as far as the Boogie kits I have no experience yet. 
As always YMMV

Regards and welcome 

    

Gateway Kid

[One Gun Jimmy]

2 minutes ago, Gateway Kid SASS# 70038 Life said:

You will get a huge variety of opinions as to the best short stroke, best springs, best mainspring etc. 

All I can add is what I use. 
I have had a cut and weld rifle in the past but someone wanted it more than me. Worked okay just wanted something different. 
I currently have both Pioneer SS and C&I 5th generation. I have built quite a few with those kits and both are pretty straightforward and work well. I thin and tune my own flat main springs and they have been reliable and smooth. I have used thinned lever/lifter springs, whisper springs, action springs and keep coming back to the Slix springs. I like the aluminum carriers though I have tried the lightened brass. Aluminum is still a bit lighter. Biggest difference I have found is aluminum wears faster, brass lasts pretty much forever. I recently broke down and installed a couple of the liners from Longhunter and while I had no problems before they seem just a touch smoother now. BTW as far as the Boogie kits I have no experience yet. 
As always YMMV

Regards and welcome 

    

Gateway Kid

I appreciate the feedback, I am sure I'll get 100 different opinions, kinda the point in a way...I just wanna see the general consensus before spending money...rather buy once cry once.

[Gateway Kid SASS# 70038 Life]

LOL

Buy once Cry once! I said those very words after each of my rifle purchases. 

Then I found the latest and greatest that I just had to have, looked in the checkbook and cried again! But not because I was disappointed in the guns, only my lack of willpower in making buying decisions! 
Seriously though building a good running gun is not all that difficult if you do your research, are mechanically inclined and have a propensity for patience. Assuming a ‘73, decisions you will face include 18, 20, 24 inch barrel. Straight stock or pistol grip. Half round or full hexagon. 357, 45, 44-40, 38-40 or other calibers. 
No matter what you decide, shooting a tuned rifle is just a heck of a lot of fun and IMHO more enjoyable than running a not so smooth stock gun. 
Regards

    
Gateway Kid

And knowing you created the gun you are using adds a whole other level of satisfaction. 

[One Gun Jimmy]

8 minutes ago, Gateway Kid SASS# 70038 Life said:

LOL

Buy once Cry once! I said those very words after each of my rifle purchases. 

Then I found the latest and greatest that I just had to have, looked in the checkbook and cried again! But not because I was disappointed in the guns, only my lack of willpower in making buying decisions! 
Seriously though building a good running gun is not all that difficult if you do your research, are mechanically inclined and have a propensity for patience. Assuming a ‘73, decisions you will face include 18, 20, 24 inch barrel. Straight stock or pistol grip. Half round or full hexagon. 357, 45, 44-40, 38-40 or other calibers. 
No matter what you decide, shooting a tuned rifle is just a heck of a lot of fun and IMHO more enjoyable than running a not so smooth stock gun. 
Regards

    
Gateway Kid

And knowing you created the gun you are using adds a whole other level of satisfaction. 

100% agree....

I got the rifle I wanted, searched till I found one in stock

 

Did all that research haha.

 

Now I just need to know what parts are worth upgrading without spending extra money.

 

I've already seen at least two other sets of pistols I "gotta have" so I need to spend wisely lol

 

Here is the girl in question

[Griff]

I played this game for nearly 35 years with a stock length stroke on my '73... left my 1860 the same way, and when I added a second 1873 I did the same.  I left the mainspring stock in all three, I haven't ever had a "light" hit on the primer.  However, I have replaced the carrier & lever springs in all three with either Whisper or SlixSprings.  The internals have been polished and to facilitate my BP 45 Colt loads the carriers have been clearance to where they almost rattle in the carrier mortise.  However, I can run a complete 3-day, 24 stage match without bothering to interrupt the evening's entertainment to clean guns.  Then 3 years ago, I got challenged to shoot as tho' the clock mattered.  So I put short stroke kits (Pioneer) in two of the guns... along with C45S carriers.  I'm still working at perfecting the installation of the SS kits and C45S carrier.  (Having a pro do it may have been less time-consuming)... In addition, I may go back to 45 Colt carriers as I find the C45S runs much dirtier that the full length 45Colt.  But, if you're shooting smokeless and 38 Spl., that won't be an issue.  

[Equanimous Phil]

I don't know what parts those different short stroke kits include and what is already done to a Taylor's 73 compared to a stock Uberti. But besides the short stroking and the parts that have already been mentioned, I'd recommend to consider upgrading the following parts:

• Trigger safety block spring (lever should remain fully closed by the lever spring)
• Magazine follower made of SS
• Magazine spring made of SS
• Set of hardened screws

 

[Marauder SASS #13056]

You should be happy with the Pioneer kit and his instructions.

As you mention, polishing everything is very helpful but you don't probably need to go beyond about 600 and or use some polishing creme.

 

Either the Slix or other should work, but some say one is lighter than the other but I can't remember.  If you are good working with springs, you can lighten the stock ones.  IF it doesn't work or you go a little too far, you can readily replace them.

 

The Aluminum is quite a bit lighter and is great, but they do wear a little bit if you shoot a lot.  So you could start with lightening you stock one to see how you like it.

 

I did use the mag tubes and like them.

 

I don't see any advantage to the change of hammer spring and know some who tried them but then went back to a lightened hammer spring.  The lightened springs do help to reduce frame wear due to the higher pressure of the hammer on the firing pin extension. That wear is why some replacement extensions are slightly over-sized, but the wear is normally not overall.  I know just a couple rifles of top shooters than had to be re-sleeved due to the wear.

[Gateway Kid SASS# 70038 Life]

9 hours ago, One Gun Jimmy said:

100% agree....

I got the rifle I wanted, searched till I found one in stock

 

Did all that research haha.

 

Now I just need to know what parts are worth upgrading without spending extra money.

 

I've already seen at least two other sets of pistols I "gotta have" so I need to spend wisely lol

 

Here is the girl in question

Very Nice!

looks “in the white” which are not real common but will help you shoot better! (Everyone knows shiny guns go faster!) 

Saw a couple things I should have mentioned before, you might like and some estimated costs. 

The lever safety spring ($8), liners including stainless spring and follower ($80) mine are aluminum but there is a fiberglass version too, short stroke ($200), bigger front sight ($12-$45), lever wrap ($15), lightened springs DIY for free and about ($40+) for lifter/lever and ($20) for prethinned main spring, aluminum carrier ($60), butt cover ($60+++), straight trigger ($50). Prices are estimated and could vary up or down since it has been a while since I bought parts. 
Also don’t forget to budget for Aspen Filly or Scratch to do their work (engraving) ($100 +++) Better aerodynamics don’t you know!!! 

seriously though until you decide what you want from this game, polishing things, lightened springs through out lever wrap and better sights will be plenty until you have put in a lot of practice (at least several 1000 live and that much more dry).

Ask any hot rodder how fast you can go and they will tell that depends on your bank account!

Regards

    

Gateway Kid

[Max Payne]

I didn't notice any difference in feel with the aluminum inserts, but they do cut down on the rust a LOT!! Otherwise, even with a stainless spring & follower, you'll need to clean the rust in the mag tube semi-regularly. I tried one of the non-metal ones (resin maybe?), & it molded itself to the mag tube. Had a time getting it out! I've used both Pioneer & C & I, & I'm partial to the C & I. I have aluminum carriers in all of my & my wife's rifles. Some of them look really beat up (after 8-10 years), but I've never had one fail. I tried using lightened brass, but the alum just feels better to me. I don't believe in getting too crazy with the mainspring, because when the beeper goes off, you won't notice a slight difference. You definitely do not want any light strikes during game time. I don't see the need or significant advantage for the coil spring setup. Also, I tried a 1 piece firing pin, but didn't like having 1 of my 4 rifles being different from the others. Also, if you want to snatch the bolt out for any reason, it's not a quick operation.

 

All my opinions, probably not any better than anyone else's personal preferences. Good luck with your project!

[Pb Mark]

My lottery choices:

1.  No

2.  Slix

3.  Yes*

4.  Yes**l

* You will be fitting the Pioneer Lifter to a carrier of your choice for both upstroke and positive downstroke.  My choice is the drop-in Pioneer aluminum carrier.  You will not need to modify your stock carrier that way.  

**If you do not mind the expense, it's drop-in (if you can get the endplug off) and has matching spring and new diameter metal follower in the package.  

[Randy Saint Eagle, SASS # 64903]

22 hours ago, One Gun Jimmy said:

I'm looking to short stroke my Taylor's 1873.

 

I am 99.9% sure I have the skills...but don't have the parts.

 

I believe the super short stroke from pioneer is for sure.

 

The questions for you guys are these:

 

1. Is the pioneer coil mainspring worth it? (With the bearings)

 

2. Would you go with the pioneer action springs or the SliX springs?

 

3. Is the aluminum carrier worth it or should I modify my stock one?

 

4. Should I put the tube in the magazine to straiten .38s in the tube.

 

 I will polish all parts to about 12000grit when I'm in there.

 

My main goal is to get a short stroke and be smmoooooth...cause smooth is fast.

 

I shot a pards 73 and it was just more enjoyable, short and like butter but he isn't 100% what was done to his rifle.

I had a couple of ‘73’s that I thought were just fine until I broke both of them last year at Land Run. Reno Mustang let me shoot his rifle for the rest of the match and I was ruined! I bought a new rifle before I left Land Run and gave it to him and said make it like yours. It was absolutely amazing when I got it back. I will probably leave out something but it has Shotgun Boogie magazine tube system, hammer coil spring system, #2 trigger kit, ‘66 style loading gate, lever and carrier arm springs, trigger spring, safety bar spring, C & I 5th generation short stroke kit and aluminum carrier, one piece firing pin (not sure who made it), Dodge City Dixie lever wrap, larger front sight,  flat top rear sight and a Lever Lock from Unique Tek. I’m sure I left something out but it is faster than I’ll ever be and a pleasure to shoot. I feel like I went from a Cadillac to a Porsche!  
 

Randy

[Colorado Coffinmaker]

Only "Part" that hasn't been mentioned is ShotGun Boogie's Short Stroke kit.  Highest techie thingie on the block.  Everything that need "adjustment" is done with set screws.  I also prefer Slix Lever Side Springs.  For a 38 rifle, I consider the magazine tube liner and spring kit a "must-do."  Reducing the Main Spring and the Trigger Block safety spring are also "Must-Do" as is reducing the Firing Pin Return spring.  Talk to your Broker.  Your gonna need him  

[Max Payne]

15 hours ago, Randy Saint Eagle, SASS # 64903 said:

I had a couple of ‘73’s that I thought were just fine until I broke both of them last year at Land Run. Reno Mustang let me shoot his rifle for the rest of the match and I was ruined! I bought a new rifle before I left Land Run and gave it to him and said make it like yours. It was absolutely amazing when I got it back. I will probably leave out something but it has Shotgun Boogie magazine tube system, hammer coil spring system, #2 trigger kit, ‘66 style loading gate, lever and carrier arm springs, trigger spring, safety bar spring, C & I 5th generation short stroke kit and aluminum carrier, one piece firing pin (not sure who made it), Dodge City Dixie lever wrap, larger front sight,  flat top rear sight and a Lever Lock from Unique Tek. I’m sure I left something out but it is faster than I’ll ever be and a pleasure to shoot. I feel like I went from a Cadillac to a Porsche!  
 

Randy

I believe that one piece firing pin came from Snake Oil George. As always, I could be wrong.

[Pb Mark]

This thread seems to cover it all quite well.  They are fun guns to upgrade but the cost will be pretty similar to having a professional known gunsmith do the work for you.  Unsure what additional issues if any with what looks like a nickel-plating job.  Will the coating flake at the front sight dovetail when replacing the sight?  Do you accept having a blued new front sight and maybe some of the screws?  Will the nickel coating on the loading gate make it brittle and impact reducing the spring tension?  Just curios.  Personally, never seen one with nickel plating.  (Assuming its nickel plated from the pictures)

 

I'm a gun tinkerer novice compared to some of the SASS folks, but recently finished going thru a new Cimmaron short rifle in 357.  I only ran into two little problems doing the work.  The forward pin that holds the bolt extension actually required a hydraulic press to remove it.  Normally, a socket from the toolbox backing up the bolt, a punch and hammer is all it takes.  When I talked to Cimmaron, they were out of stock on the pins and were aware of this issue.  VTI provided the replacement pin, but it still needed to be reduced down slightly to allow light hammer tap installation. 

I also buggered up the magazine tube plug trying to remove it.  Replaced it with a brass one.  Wish I'd have bought that impact screwdriver before touching it.  Various sources sell special remover tools for the plug.  A wide, absolute perfect fit gunsmith bit and one light hit on the impact screwdriver was all I needed.

 

Very enjoyable project if not pressed for time.  

[One Gun Jimmy]

2 hours ago, Pb Mark said:

This thread seems to cover it all quite well.  They are fun guns to upgrade but the cost will be pretty similar to having a professional known gunsmith do the work for you.  Unsure what additional issues if any with what looks like a nickel-plating job.  Will the coating flake at the front sight dovetail when replacing the sight?  Do you accept having a blued new front sight and maybe some of the screws?  Will the nickel coating on the loading gate make it brittle and impact reducing the spring tension?  Just curios.  Personally, never seen one with nickel plating.  (Assuming its nickel plated from the pictures)

 

I'm a gun tinkerer novice compared to some of the SASS folks, but recently finished going thru a new Cimmaron short rifle in 357.  I only ran into two little problems doing the work.  The forward pin that holds the bolt extension actually required a hydraulic press to remove it.  Normally, a socket from the toolbox backing up the bolt, a punch and hammer is all it takes.  When I talked to Cimmaron, they were out of stock on the pins and were aware of this issue.  VTI provided the replacement pin, but it still needed to be reduced down slightly to allow light hammer tap installation. 

I also buggered up the magazine tube plug trying to remove it.  Replaced it with a brass one.  Wish I'd have bought that impact screwdriver before touching it.  Various sources sell special remover tools for the plug.  A wide, absolute perfect fit gunsmith bit and one light hit on the impact screwdriver was all I needed.

 

Very enjoyable project if not pressed for time.  

It is what taylors calls "white" finish....

 

It's blued then polished and heat treated till its shinny as a new penny.

 

Looks really awesome, ill give an update in a year or so to see how well it holds up

[SGT. ELI 35882 GUNFIGHTER]

I have built a lot of guns for customers and have installed everything out there at one time or another. This is what is going into my new rifle. Shotgun Boogie hammer (easy to tune by swapping coil springs), Boogie #2 trigger, Victory Gun Works lightened brass carrier. Victory Gun Works coil spring extractor and clean out on bolt, and lightened firing pin extension, C&I 5th generation SS that I drill and tap for adjusting set screws and positive slam, or Boogie kit. Whisper springs or Boogie springs

[One Gun Jimmy]

7 hours ago, SGT. ELI 35882 GUNFIGHTER said:

 Victory Gun Works

Do these cats have a website? 

 

I don't have bookface

[Assassin]

Unfortunately, rifles are the most problematic guns we use.

I have Rugers that are still running strong after 25+ years of shooting and dry fire practice.

Once I started using high end shotguns I've had few problems, mostly cracked stocks. I have Uberti and Miruko rifles and I have lost confidence in them. They are constantly malfunctioning and made with poor quality metals, especially the Uberti's. Why can't someone make a quality rifle? I'm tired of the constant tinkering, getting to the point that I don't shoot matches in concern of breaking another rifle and I really hate to spend $2k for another rifle. As for parts, buy what's available.

 

 

[One Gun Jimmy]

31 minutes ago, Assassin said:

Unfortunately, rifles are the most problematic guns we use.

I have Rugers that are still running strong after 25+ years of shooting and dry fire practice.

Once I started using high end shotguns I've had few problems, mostly cracked stocks. I have Uberti and Miruko rifles and I have lost confidence in them. They are constantly malfunctioning and made with poor quality metals, especially the Uberti's. Why can't someone make a quality rifle? I'm tired of the constant tinkering, getting to the point that I don't shoot matches in concern of breaking another rifle and I really hate to spend $2k for another rifle. As for parts, buy what's available.

 

 

This is the first if seen this type of statement, what are you typically breaking in these guns?

[Pb Mark]

Really like the finish on your new rifle.  Looked up Taylor and they supposedly now sell a nickel-plated version of the 1873.   Guess it depends if you are building your rifle for keeps, or if you will ever want to return it to stock?  For instance, the first thing needed on the stock finger lever is reworking the cam surfaces that wire springs ride on.  The rifle I recently finished for myself was upgraded no-hurry one part at a time.  Highly recommended and why not?  Make it totally smooth and install the SS Kit last step.  Get the rifle working with one finger flips of the lever open and closed.  Get the trigger where you want it.  Shoot it along the way at each step.  Have fun with it.  The short stoke kit comes LAST.  

[Pb Mark]

Why did I make the comment above?  Because you, like me, will have much to learn when going thru your new 1873 to make it CAS capable and last thru the almost semi-automatic firing these guns are subjected to.  I'll give you a secret too about the Pioneer SS Kit you are contemplating.   I used one and am very happy with the results.  The written instructions do not cover this, but the back side of the lifter also needs filed for positive slam-down.   I fit mine perfect per the instructions and the lever would not fully close.  This is a good thing.  More meat on the lifter to remove on the surface that is hit by the finger lever when closing the action this time...  By the time you get to the ss kit, you will have taken the rifle apart many times.  The interaction of all the parts will be fully understood by the time you install the SS kit.  Just an example.  

 

I did not spend the money many people invest in their CAS rifles.  Used available affordable parts.  My build is basically as follows:

Brass magazine tube plug, big dot 0.42" high front sight, magazine tube liner, spring and metal follower, wire action springs, Pioneer SS kit, Pioneer aluminum carrier, flat trigger, light finger lever safety spring, lighter hammer spring, lighter firing pin spring, modified stock trigger spring, leather lever wrap, leather buttstock wrap. Bought most everything from Longhunter website simply because from Texas, shipping was very quick to my address.  

[SGT. ELI 35882 GUNFIGHTER]

8 hours ago, One Gun Jimmy said:

Do these cats have a website? 

 

I don't have bookface

No website, my shop.

[One Gun Jimmy]

3 minutes ago, SGT. ELI 35882 GUNFIGHTER said:

No website, my shop.

Ah, well that makes sence lol

 

I would be interested in a lightened brass carrier.

 

[Pb Mark]

 

Last post from me.

 

I'm basically finished with my build.  It is now a smooth fast rifle with a flat face trigger positioned forward of the stock trigger.  I mostly shoot 38 cases with 140 grain ltfp bullets crimped before the crimp groove in order to meet a minimum COL of 1.50".  Shorter rounds will feed unwillingly and anything much shorter will wear the hard anodize off the bottom of the feed ramp on the aluminum carrier when pushing the too short cartridges back off the carrier towards the magazine tube.  Set the trigger at 3.5#.  The trigger cannot be rode when levering the rifle because the lever safety spring can be overridden and then the rifle could potentially be fired out of battery.  Lever safety always resets with the sear, but do not ride the forward trigger is the quirk.  Not an issue but it can be done.  Every screw on the rifle is fully tightened down.  The second screw for hammer tension is not in play yet but available if needed.  The rifle fires all primers encountered.  Personally, I stocked small rifle primers years ago and mostly use them instead of small pistol primers, no problem.  Had my dust cover engraved.  Still planning to put a recessed target crown on the barrel for non-CAS target shooting and for the fun of it.  Use red Mobile 1 synthetic grease lube.  Paid $1060 out the door at a friend's gun store for the Uberti deluxe pistol grip short rifle - that is why I bought it.  Was shooting a Marlin 1894c before a deal on a new 73 that could not be passed up.  Built the 73 basically for knowledge.  Have less than $1500 in it and expect it will remain trouble free if properly maintained.  Like it better than the Marlin in most ways.  

 

You too will also have the new style bolt with replaceable lower tab.  That eliminates the 1873 broken lower tab repair problem.  My rifle is a pistol grip design and the shimming required to use a couple of the hammer spring designs was not worth it to me.  Your straight stock rifle will fit some options I passed on due to geometry.  Yes, the metal on an Uberti is soft compared to the Muroku Winchesters or Marlin rifles that I have worked on.  The Italian made CAS type rifles though have available replacement parts and speed parts that support CAS needs.  They are the best CAS style shooting build platforms (opinion).

[One Gun Jimmy]

4 minutes ago, Pb Mark said:

 

Last post from me.

 

I'm basically finished with my build.  It is now a smooth fast rifle with a flat face trigger positioned forward of the stock trigger.  I mostly shoot 38 cases with 140 grain ltfp bullets crimped before the crimp groove in order to meet a minimum COL of 1.50".  Shorter rounds will feed unwillingly and anything much shorter will wear the hard anodize off the bottom of the feed ramp on the aluminum carrier when pushing the too short cartridges back off the carrier towards the magazine tube.  Set the trigger at 3.5#.  The trigger cannot be rode when levering the rifle because the lever safety spring can be overridden and then the rifle could potentially be fired out of battery.  Lever safety always resets with the sear, but do not ride the forward trigger is the quirk.  Not an issue but it can be done.  Every screw on the rifle is fully tightened down.  The second screw for hammer tension is not in play yet but available if needed.  The rifle fires all primers encountered.  Personally, I stocked small rifle primers years ago and mostly use them instead of small pistol primers, no problem.  Had my dust cover engraved.  Still planning to put a recessed target crown on the barrel for non-CAS target shooting and for the fun of it.  Use red Mobile 1 synthetic grease lube.  Paid $1060 out the door at a friend's gun store for the Uberti deluxe pistol grip short rifle - that is why I bought it.  Was shooting a Marlin 1894c before a deal on a new 73 that could not be passed up.  Built the 73 basically for knowledge.  Have less than $1500 in it and expect it will remain trouble free if properly maintained.  Like it better than the Marlin in most ways.  

 

You too will also have the new style bolt with replaceable lower tab.  That eliminates the 1873 broken lower tab repair problem.  My rifle is a pistol grip design and the shimming required to use a couple of the hammer spring designs was not worth it to me.  Your straight stock rifle will fit some options I passed on due to geometry.  Yes, the metal on an Uberti is soft compared to the Muroku Winchesters or Marlin rifles that I have worked on.  The Italian made CAS type rifles though have available replacement parts and speed parts that support CAS needs.  They are the best CAS style shooting build platforms (opinion).

Great posts, I am new to the game and surgery on these rifles. 

 

My plane is too fine tooth all parts.

 

Understand the geometry and hiw the new parts change that.

 

Then just make it work lol

[SGT. ELI 35882 GUNFIGHTER]

2 hours ago, One Gun Jimmy said:

Ah, well that makes sence lol

 

I would be interested in a lightened brass carrier.

 

If it is a .357 I have new lightened carriers for $70 shipped.

[One Gun Jimmy]

44 minutes ago, SGT. ELI 35882 GUNFIGHTER said:

If it is a .357 I have new lightened carriers for $70 shipped.

It is .357, I like the durability of brass , do these typically need clearance for SS or does the lightning usually cause them to be clearenced enough.

[SGT. ELI 35882 GUNFIGHTER]

They are not clearanced for short stroke, I clearance at the bolt, but I can clearance the carrier if you prefer

[Pb Mark]

I lied, last comment promise - lol.

 

Five minutes with a pencil grinder is all it takes for the brass carrier radius areas.  Not needed until you decide on the short stroke kit either.

 

The last things being contemplated on my rifle are a one-piece firing pin and a liner in the frame for it.  I do not know where to buy this, so probably build one myself.  SASS rules might disagree, but I'd like to get both the one-piece firing pin and the inside of the frame insert for it nickel boron nitride coated too. I'll also tap a grade 8 bolt into the strike surface of the hammer and grind it flat to prevent the firing pin extension from eventually damaging the hammer strike face.  Hope to get to these non-necessities sometime later this year for the fun of it.

 

Have people built better guns - absolutely.  

 

The sky is the limit, so enjoy your build.  

[One Gun Jimmy]

9 minutes ago, Pb Mark said:

I lied, last comment promise - lol.

 

Five minutes with a pencil grinder is all it takes for the brass carrier radius areas.  Not needed until you decide on the short stroke kit either.

 

The last things being contemplated on my rifle are a one-piece firing pin and a liner in the frame for it.  I do not know where to buy this, so probably build one myself.  SASS rules might disagree, but I'd like to get both the one-piece firing pin and the inside of the frame insert for it nickel boron nitride coated too. I'll also tap a grade 8 bolt into the strike surface of the hammer and grind it flat to prevent the firing pin extension from eventually damaging the hammer strike face.  Hope to get to these non-necessities sometime later this year for the fun of it.

 

Have people built better guns - absolutely.  

 

The sky is the limit, so enjoy your build.  

Yea,  I'm a little torn on the SS kit at this point...I like the boogie idea, but worry about the set screws being an issue long term....and I can use a file so the pioneer Kelis dosent scare me

[SGT. ELI 35882 GUNFIGHTER]

2 hours ago, One Gun Jimmy said:

It is .357, I like the durability of brass , do these typically need clearance for SS or does the lightning usually cause them to be clearenced enough.

 

[One Gun Jimmy]

49 minutes ago, SGT. ELI 35882 GUNFIGHTER said:

 

Hmmm, I like it, what other go fast parts you got? Wouldn't mind supporting a member /small buisness where I can.

[Kingsley]

I can say I run C&I in all my rifles. I looked into sgb system but did not like the set screw method. Was worried about dimples in the lifter arm. Small pointed objects vs. a complete flat mating surface. I’ve done a lot of SS rifles and a perfect fitting lifter/lever combo will not wear out for a long time. Cannot say the same for sgb system. But then I’ve never run his setup. My buddy just installed one, we’ll see how it works out for him. He can run his rifle blistering. He’s one of the best shooters in florida. I’ll let him be the tester.
 

CC 

[Kingsley]

Funny Griff. Feel the same way. Apparently they are going to redefine cowboy action as we know it.