Ace Caliente Posted August 21, 2018 Share Posted August 21, 2018 I have a reloaded 38 cartridge that locked up my Pietta 1873 during a match. After getting it out at the reloading table and then bringing it home and playing around with it, I cannot for the life of me tell what is causing the issue. When I place the cartridge into the cylinder alone it will cycle around fine, meaning by repeatedly cocking and decocking the hammer the cylinder will revolve. This works until the cartridge attempts to move to the final position (under the hammer). If I really press hard on the hammer (and sometimes apply some force to the cylinder) the cartridge will move to the under the hammer position. The cartridge seems to revolve fine in my other Pietta. Other cartridges seem fine in the "problem" Pietta, though I have had similiar "tight" cycling cartridges in the past. I don't notice a high primer, though I'm not sure what else to look for that sets this cartridge apart. It doesn't protrude past the mouth of the cylinder, or even come close (38 in 357 pistol). Any ideas what else might be causing this? Does my Pietta maybe just need to be polished a bit to prevent sticking on the flat surface facing the rear of the cylinder maybe (I think this might be called the shield or something to that effect)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nasty Newt # 7365 Posted August 21, 2018 Share Posted August 21, 2018 Mic the rim. It might be a little thick. I've seen it with nickel cases, but I don't know if the nickel was pertinent to the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrison Joe, SASS #60708 Posted August 21, 2018 Share Posted August 21, 2018 A high primer can be detected real easy - stand loaded round up on a flat surface and see if it wobbles when you prod it. Wobble - primer is sticking out and needs to be deeper. The top cylinder position in-line with the barrel is where the frame/recoil shield is the farthest forward (and tightest). Cartridges that are a little primer-proud will often go all the way around till they get ready to line up with barrel, and THEN they lock up. Really bad cartridges will lock up earlier in the rotation. If you remove much metal from the recoil shield, the brass hits the recoil shield with a lot of force when each round is fired. The manufacturers make the recoil shield area "tight" on purpose - to prevent that wear and tear. Does that cartridge sit fully in chamber? Take cylinder out of gun, load cartridge and look from side. Rim should be right down against the back face of cylinder. Check fit in all six chambers. A bent rim can stick out enough to drag. A fat rim (thicker than normal) can drag. Don't reload A-MERC cartridges - they are really badly stamped out. Bulged crimp can keep a round from chambering fully. A dirty chamber can keep the round from chambering fully, too. Clean Cylinder real well, and check again. You surely are not loading to too long an overall length, since you are running .38 special brass. If your gun shoots factory loads well (or your pard's rounds well) and doesn't shoot your reloads perfect and you have done the tests above, then what is left is mostly your loading technique. Good luck, GJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sedalia Dave Posted August 21, 2018 Share Posted August 21, 2018 After you do what Garrison Joe suggested, take a sharpie and blacken the head of the case. When you force it around look at the case head. It will be obvious where the cartridge is dragging. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badlands Bob #61228 Posted August 21, 2018 Share Posted August 21, 2018 I think Garrison Joe nailed it. I can't even get most Amerc cases to feed through the Dillon press. Into the garbage they go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jefro, SASS#69420 Posted August 21, 2018 Share Posted August 21, 2018 What Joe said, plus the Pietta has a firing pin bushing pressed into the recoil shield like Colts. If you do any dry firing without snap caps, or just over time it can develop a little burr that may be just enough to drag on the cartridge base and primer as it rotates to the 12 o' clock position. A couple of hits with a finish stone will remove it pronto. Good Luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blast Masterson Posted August 21, 2018 Share Posted August 21, 2018 It reads to me that you are messing around with just one bullet. I wouldn't be messing around with my gun because one cartridge doesn't perform properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace Caliente Posted August 21, 2018 Author Share Posted August 21, 2018 Thanks for the advice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colorado Coffinmaker Posted August 21, 2018 Share Posted August 21, 2018 PLUS ONE to Garrison Joe and Blast Masterson. If it's just "one" cartridge, not worth twisting your knickers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Original Lumpy Gritz Posted August 21, 2018 Share Posted August 21, 2018 Any issues with factory .38 Special? OLG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace Caliente Posted August 21, 2018 Author Share Posted August 21, 2018 I don't think I've had any issue with the factory ammo I've used. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nate Kiowa Jones #6765 Posted August 21, 2018 Share Posted August 21, 2018 I didn't read all the post but you may want to check the cylinder gap. If it is excessively tight (under .005") the least bit of lead/crud buildup on the cylinder face can cause problems with slightly out of spec ammo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Original Lumpy Gritz Posted August 21, 2018 Share Posted August 21, 2018 Then it's your loads... I'll bet you're not seating the primer to the bottom of the cases's primer cup for one. The other area is your crimp. Hope you seat and crimp in 2 different operations. Do you use a case gauge to check your rounds? You should have one for each caliber you load. https://www.dillonprecision.com/dillon-handgun-case-gauges_8_3_25548.html X2 on bbl to cyl gap. OLG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hillbilly Drifter Posted August 21, 2018 Share Posted August 21, 2018 Curious OLG, I seat and crimp in one step with my Redding seating die. I have and use a case gauge. Never an issue and have loaded 1000s of 45 LC doing it this way. Are you saying it is best on a progressive to do it in two steps? That I might understand. I do mine on a single stage and like I said, no issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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