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Problem with Stoeger SxS coachgun


Hopalong Mac McLin

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The barrels/forend of my Stoeger coachgun has been slightly separating or disengaging after firing the first round so that the second does not fire, because the firing pin cannot strike the primer due to the separation. Has anyone experienced this and, if so, what is the problem? I did shorten/lighten the release spring, but no other modifications.

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Do you mean the barrel opens slightly when the first round is fired? If so, then either put a heavier spring back in or, like Smokestack says, have the gun worked on so it is locked more completely when closed. When the locking lugs are not locked properly the gun relies on the locking/opening lever to hold it closed, which is can't do if the spring is very light.

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Sounds like the lock spring has been lightened too much.

A long-ago post stated that the most expensive gunsmith out there was a cowboy trying to save a few $ or keep from waiting for their gun to be 'lost' in the backlog of a popular and capable 'smith.

Been there, done that and have a tee-shirt.

I recommend getting this gun to a 'smith who works on cowboy SxSs. They can probably make the adjustment quick and easy.

This is the lock that separates your face and about 20000 psi when each shell ignites.

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My bride Sunny's Stoeger was opening after the first round sometime about 3 1/2 years ago.

 

I reduced the loads a bit (less recoil) and haven't had a problem with that since. ;)

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The barrels/forend of my Stoeger coachgun has been slightly separating or disengaging after firing the first round so that the second does not fire, because the firing pin cannot strike the primer due to the separation. Has anyone experienced this and, if so, what is the problem? I did shorten/lighten the release spring, but no other modifications.

This (the red) is more than likely yer problem..

Too light of a lever spring...

 

Rance ;)

Thinkin' I've done it too....

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Poorly fitted locking lugs is a common thing with Stoegers. The heavy springing is their way of "covering up" this deficiency, so it's not uncommon for this "Shooting Open" condition to rear it's head if you lighten the locking lug spring, or use heavy loads.

 

Usually if using low velocity loads like the Winchester Low Noise/Low Recoil loads with a velocity of a tad less than 1000 FPS, or hand loads of that approximate velocity, the chamber pressure will be in the 6,000/7,000 PSI area, and that low pressure won't cause the gun to shoot open.

 

Any good Cowboy Gunsmith can re-fit the locking lugs to permanently correct the problem, although usually the use of the low velocity loads will allow the use of the gun without it shooting open.

 

RBK

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Don't know if it is an older gun or not but I have seen a few where the pivot pin was worn or that area of the lug was worn. I had one once that was worn and needed a bit a bit of weld and reforming to make a tight lockup. It was not the locking lug that was the problem as the lug held the barrels in the downward position real good but you could still pull hard forward and get a gap between the barrel and breech.

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Marauder has an article by Coyote Cap describing the problem and solution: http://marauder.homestead.com/files/Stoeger2.html

 

CR

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The barrels/forend of my Stoeger coachgun has been slightly separating or disengaging after firing the first round so that the second does not fire, because the firing pin cannot strike the primer due to the separation. Has anyone experienced this and, if so, what is the problem? I did shorten/lighten the release spring, but no other modifications.

Shortening the spring does make it easier to open and it also creates the problem you describe.

Installing a proper length but lighter spring will generally fix your problem. They are available from http://www.longhunt.com/storelh/index.php?route=product/product&path=88_95&product_id=238

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The barrels/forend of my Stoeger coachgun has been slightly separating or disengaging after firing the first round so that the second does not fire, because the firing pin cannot strike the primer due to the separation. Has anyone experienced this and, if so, what is the problem? I did shorten/lighten the release spring, but no other modifications.

My Stoeger had the same problem, it was the locking lever not engaging the locking lug far enough. Three-cut fixed mine.

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I have some pretty bad feelings concerning my experiences with Stoegers, the gunsmithed ones in particular. The only one out of three that gave a reasonable amount of service was the one I used as it came from the factory. The most highly WIRE recommended smith shipped out a new gun that popped open on the first stage of its first match. Lots of guys at this particular match had guns by the same smith and said I must have gotten the proverbial lemon except that since it had been so highly modified it would no longer be covered by a factory warranty, gee thanks. After being prayed over by another 'gunsmith' It was returned with the exact same problem. I am left with one question, does any gunsmith actually test fire their creations to see how badly they have broken them before they return them to owners?? In all fairness concerning the third Stoeger, everyone agrees that this had to have been done by a self anointed gunsmith who had not progressed far enuff to qualify as a knowledgeable gun owner.

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I am having the same problem with a stoeger. In my case I bought the gun used and it was obvious that someone had dome some work, but I have no idea who. First thing I did was replace the lever spring. When I got the new one, I saw how badly the spring had been butchered. It helped some, but around the 6th stage, it started popping open again. I showed it to a gunsmith at the match, and as soon as he closed it he could tell it wasn't even closing properly. We disassembled it and he said the screw that held the extractor in was loose and it was catching on the guns action. I figure that was my fault because I had replaced the extractor too (last guy had butchered that as well). Tightened that up, and he went and took a couple shots 1 handed and it worked fine. Next match, on the 2nd or third stage it started coming open again. I checked that screw and it was still tight, so now I'm just taking it to a gunsmith for a full workup. The chambers need to be beveled and polished anyway and that's way beyond what I'm willing to do.

 

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Let me start by saying I am not a gun smith. I used a stoeger for years and did not like the gun. It's point if aim was off and it would open with field loads if not held shut. So after buying some other sxs and the stoeger wasn't my only match gun I decided to mess with it. The locking lugs are slightly angled so that they will wedge into place so in theory they will fit perfectly. You can tell how far they are engaged by the slop in your release lever. I slowly filed on the locking lugs until they would fully engage and now the gun will not open even if you shoot field loads with a one handed pistol grip. Not saying this will fix your gun but it worked for me. Good luck with yours

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Most Wanted,

Your procedure was the correct one. And YES, you can most certainly tell the amount of engagement by feeling the slack in the release lever. Most people aren't aware of that.

 

USUALLY, not every time, using low velocity ammo, will negate the problem, but not always. Shooting Wal-Mart cheap hunting ammo is not even close to low velocity. You must use ammo that has a velocity of 1000 FPS or less to realize any relief.

 

RBK

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have Stoeger coach gun that the locking lug only pennetrating about 1/3 up the locking lugs. The latch spring is factory stock. With barrels off, the locking bolt will travel full distance so the locking bolt and lever are working as I would expect. My conclusion was to do as Most Wanted stated - carefully remove metal from locking lug or lugs until the locking bolt perpetrates full depth.

 

But reading the directions of Coyote Cap on the Marauder web site says that's the wrong thing to do. Maybe I'm not understanding his comments or he's addressing a different problem.

 

"Chris, you need to take a whole bunch of metal off the front of the upper side of the lever pivot on the horizontal bolt.

 

I wish I could draw you a picture pard, you would see right away what I was talking about.

 

Don't go filing away on the locking lugs. That is the wrong thing to do on a soft metal Stoeger."

 

Here is link to whole document. It includes many comments and several issues so that makes it confusing also.

 

http://marauder.homestead.com/files/Stoeger2.html

 

Can anyone clarify Coyote Cap's instructions?

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