JD Trampas, SASS # 55781 Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 I'm thinking of buying a trailer to camp and go to out of state shoots, so I need some advice from the trailer experts out there, some dealers will try to sell you something that you can't haul very good and I don't want to be in that position and have to trade trucks, I'm happy with the one I have. So here is what I have, 2005 Chevy Silverado 1500 reg cab Z71, 4WD, auto, vortec 5.3 engine 295hp iron blk V8, tow package, this is a short box sport side/step side, HD trailering equipment, 17" rims 3.42 rear axle, only 38,000 miles on it. So what weight trailer can I get and without any problems of pulling and working it to death???????? A bumper style, no fifth wheel All for now JD Trampas P.S. I ask my GM dealer, he printed it out, it said 3,000 lbs, I told him that you couldn't even pull a car trailer with car on it, that would exceed 3,000 lbs, I guess they are like Harley Davidson, they don't recommend pulling a little trailer behind there motorcycles either, but everyone does including me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adirondack Jack, SASS #53440 Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 Something is whacked. My '03 Safari (Astro) van, 4.3, nothing extra, is rated at 5000 (though much above 3500 I don't like with the V6/AOD tranny.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
"Pop" Dawson Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 I have a 3500 pound rating with my Nissan Frontier. I pull a 20' center console boat that I've weighed on a commercial scale at 1900 pounds (loaded) with no problem at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badlands Beady Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 My wife's Forester is manufacturer-rated to tow 2,000 lbs. Officially, that means she can't even pull a moderate popup, let alone the smallest travel trailer. Mind, the driver and passengers are supposed to be added into the trailer's weight. OTOH, 30 or so years ago, we moved from Anchorage to Burlington VT. We (I, that is, the whole way!) were driving a newish VW Rabbit carrying two adults, two toddlers, a medium-sized dog, a roof rack and the largest single-axle U-haul. 4,655 miles (I still remember a feeling of pride when I added it up), 32 mpg and a quart of oil (plus a leaky front tire). Mind, this was through at least two mountain ranges and a 2,000-foot thick wall of mosquitos. I have a hunch towing weights are the manufacturer's hedge against warranty work and lawsuits. BTW: From that experience, I'd say a VW can pull its own weight up a wall, but only in 1st gear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Houston # 35508 Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 http://www.onlinetowingguide.com/guidelines/towing_capacities.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Houston # 35508 Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 Double-Tap!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jacknife Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 Didn't ya get a book with the truck? I bet it will tell ya the towing capacaties of the vehicke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Sage, SASS #49891 Life Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 One thing to remember, no matter what the published weight of the trailer you end up buying (if you indeed do buy one), the published weight will by DRY. Nothing in it....no water, holding tanks empty, no cargo AT ALL...NADA! After you get it loaded go find a truck scale and weigh it. You'll find it could have gained over 1000#, probably more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bear Saint Paw Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 One thing to remember, no matter what the published weight of the trailer you end up buying (if you indeed do buy one), the published weight will by DRY. Nothing in it....no water, holding tanks empty, no cargo AT ALL...NADA! After you get it loaded go find a truck scale and weigh it. You'll find it could have gained over 1000#, probably more. +1! Edmunds doesn't list a 5.3 for the 2005 Z71?? Based on what you listed I think your maximum trailer weight will be in the 7,500-8,5000 lb range. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bone Arranger, SASS# 25544 Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 Check out www.rv.net/forum . You can get a lot of good info. ftom there, along with some not-so-good info. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Scatterbrain Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 A bumper style, no fifth wheel Are you speaking figuratively or literally? Because an actual bumper hitch, as in a ball on the bumper, will not handle nearly as much of a load as a frame-mounted tow package. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taquila Tab, Sass #25048 Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 Look at the sticker in your truck pillar. It should list the truck's gross combined weight rating (gcwr). Take your truck to a scale and weigh it. The difference between those two numbers is how much legal capacity you have left for towing. Now subtract 500 to 1000 lbs to allow for guns, gear, water, passengers, fuel etc. that will tell you what's left for actual trailer weight. DON'T believe the salesperson most of them truly don't know and the rest will say anything to make a sale. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Col. Nathan C. Riddles, SASS # 7462 Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 Water weighs 8 lbs per gal. Most travel trailers have 30 gal fresh, 30 gal gray (sinks & shower), & 30 gal black (toilet) water tanks. If you carry a full fresh water tank that means you have 240 lbs of unnecessary weight which means reduced gas mileage. When on the road carry just enough water (5-10 gal) to flush the toilet and wash your hands. If you're going to dry camp (no hook ups) stop and fill your fresh water tank just before you reach your camping destination. Many rest areas across the country have RV service areas where you can take on fresh potable water and dump your holding tanks. Your owners manual should tell you the towing capacity of your truck. If not, you can go to Chevy's website and look it up. If I were you I'd purchase one of the light weight trailers with fiberglass body and aluminum frame weighing 4500 lbs or less. There are many manufacturers of those and you can find them on line and look at floor plans, spec, and photos. I'll give you another tip or two. Get a rear BR with a walk around queen bed. Less noise than a front BR with vehicles driving up & down the street right outside your trailer. A walk around bed is easier to make than one up against a wall & your Mrs will appreciate that. Visit the RV sites if you've never owned a trailer or RV before. There's a ton of stuff to learn (not overwhelming) but this is not the place for that. IE; Buy one with a 3 way refrigerator, LPG, 12V & 120V and set it on automatic. It will set to the least expensive way to operate. LPG is good for dry camping, 12V when connected to your truck going down the hwy & 120V when connected to shore pwr. Also your trailer has to be fairly level or your refridgerator won't work properly and could mean thawed food in the freezer & warm food in the fridge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rio Brazos Kid Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 Do not confuse Truck GVW with the full weight of the trailer. Only consider tongue weight when addressing truck GVW. While the trailer you are pulling may weigh 4000 or 5000 pounds, the tongue weight will be far less, maybe 1000 pounds or less. Towing weight has more to do with what the vehicle has the power to pull. Only tongue weight effects the vehicle GVW. RBK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rex M Rugers #6621 Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 I am not an expert RV/camper puller , nor do I play one on TV , but pulling a tow-behind camper with a 1/2-ton pickup , especially a short wheelbase model , would limit the size of the camper to the prudent. My camper is a 21' Wanderer by Thor , weighs 5100 lbs. dry , and would be about the limit that I would personally feel comfortable with. Fortunatly for me , my pickup is a 3/4 ton. I pulled the camper on vacation once from Northern Utah to West Texas with a Chevy Suburban , and would not relish that experience again. Good luck , Rex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Shoer 27979 Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 Do not confuse Truck GVW with the full weight of the trailer. Only consider tongue weight when addressing truck GVW. While the trailer you are pulling may weigh 4000 or 5000 pounds, the tongue weight will be far less, maybe 1000 pounds or less. Towing weight has more to do with what the vehicle has the power to pull. Only tongue weight effects the vehicle GVW. RBK that is so inaccurate STOPPiNG IS FAR MORE IMPORTANT then pulling Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Houston # 35508 Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 I pull a 26' Trail-Lite, weighs in at 4400lbs empty with my '06 Dodge Dakota V-8. It pulls it better than the Full Size Ram I had before!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uno Mas SASS #80082 Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 Advice from an old, but not bold, trailer puller: Size the truck to pull double the dry weight of the trailer. When it all turns to Brown #25, and it will, all that excess capacity can save your pink butte. When the 33' sailboat's trailer brakes took a POTUS on a steep downhill, those too big brakes, tires, suspension, engine and transmission were just about right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jailhouse Jim, SASS #13104 Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 The earlier GM products had a tow rating that was very low but not as low as you describe. I see numbers of 7400 lbs that sound realistic and are based not on the engine horsepower but more on the fact the earlier brakes were smaller in diameter hence less stopping ability. A load compensating hitch is a big advantage to towing stability so should be a must as well, even with larger pickups. At a rating of 7400 lbs, you should only load to 2/3's of that capacity or approximately 4900 lbs to keep from "Pushing the Envelope" for capacity. So, in a nutshell, you should be looking at smaller lengths, ultra-lites, or hi-breds, that weigh in at or below 4000 lbs to take into account loading the trailer with equipment, food, and water. You can mitigate the load/weight issue somewhat by towing with your tanks dry (filling with water just before you pull into camp and dumping waste tanks at the nearest RV dumping site). The #1 GM killer is the overdrive transmission. NEVER tow with the transmission in OD. The fluid will superheat, cause the valve body to start sticking, and starve the clutches for fluid. Then you have a big repair bill. Towing in direct is less of an issue but change your fluid religiously if you tow often (15k-25k). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Original Lumpy Gritz Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 +1! Edmunds doesn't list a 5.3 for the 2005 Z71?? Based on what you listed I think your maximum trailer weight will be in the 7,500-8,5000 lb range. Not with a 3:42 rear-end gears. LG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red Hooker Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 When I was a teenager, my two younger sisters were in the local 4-H beef club. Come fair time, we'd tow two 1200-1300 lb. steers (plus the weight of the trailer); and in the truck itself would be 3-4 people, a couple hundred pounds of feed and hay, and the girls' supplies for the week's stay at the fairgrounds. Truck was a '67 Ford F100, 2WD, three-on-the-tree driven by a 360 V-8. No probs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Shoer 27979 Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 Advice from an old, but not bold, trailer puller: Size the truck to pull double the dry weight of the trailer. When it all turns to Brown #25, and it will, all that excess capacity can save your pink butte. When the 33' sailboat's trailer brakes took a POTUS on a steep downhill, those too big brakes, tires, suspension, engine and transmission were just about right. +1 I remember when I drove trucks I was coming down the grapevine headed north. I had just passed the runaway truck ramp when I seen smoke start to roll off of my trailer brakes. Lucky for me it was light traffic and a Highway Patrol was headed the same direction as me, he shot across 4 lanes of traffic got in front and hit his light. The first and only time I got a police escort down that hill, once I got down to the bottom it still took me 2 1/2 - 3 miles to actually get my truck and trailer stop. I don't know how long I sat on the side of the road waiting for my brakes to cool down Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirty Dan Dawkins Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 Edmunds doesn't list a 5.3 for the 2005 Z71?? Edmunds omits the 5.3 for some reason, but yes iron block 5.3 is one of 3 gas engines available in GM/Chevy. I loved the one I had in my 03. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirty Dan Dawkins Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 Not with a 3:42 rear-end gears. LG Yep, you will want 3:73 for a heavy pull Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Houston # 35508 Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 5.3...4.7...5.0...Whatever happened to Cubic Inches???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Original Lumpy Gritz Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 Yep, you will want 3:73 for a heavy pull You will wish you had 4:10 or "deeper" for pull'n and down hill braking with the heavy stuff LG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rance - SASS # 54090 Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 I work at a GM dealership.. been with GM since 1976.. GMC (I sell) same as Chev.. My guide shows K1500 K meaning 4x4 1500 meaning 1/2 ton.. 5.3 V8.. 3.42 rear axle.. Max. trailer weight 8100 lbs This is for a weight distributed hitch.. not bumper mount.. Weight distribution is with the slide in mount under the bumper with the arms and chains.. If your not using the arms and chains it's just like a bumper hitch again.. Most folks don't realize that... Rance This I know about... GM puts a restriction on the trailer weight to protect themselves... They will pull a lot more than the published weight.. If you came in pulling a trailer weighin 10,000 lbs. with transmission problems they'll Void your warranty on that item.. Usually if you've been pulling that same trailer.. and have trans. problems.. Unhook the trailer and leave it at home or someplace. The dealer will try and take care of you problem.. if he can.. sometimes he can't.. Most try. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Original Lumpy Gritz Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 I work at a GM dealership.. been with GM since 1976.. GMC (I sell) same as Chev.. My guide shows K1500 K meaning 4x4 1500 meaning 1/2 ton.. 5.3 V8.. 3.42 rear axle.. Max. trailer weight 8100 lbs This is for a weight distributed hitch.. not bumper mount.. Weight distribution is with the slide in mount under the bumper with the arms and chains.. If your not using the arms and chains it's just like a bumper hitch again.. Most folks don't realize that... Rance This I know about... GM puts a restriction on the trailer weight to protect themselves... They will pull a lot more than the published weight.. If you came in pulling a trailer weighin 10,000 lbs. with transmission problems they'll Void your warranty on that item.. Usually if you've been pulling that same trailer.. and have trans. problems.. Unhook the trailer and leave it at home or someplace. The dealer will try and take care of you problem.. if he can.. sometimes he can't.. Most try. When did GM start using the "taller" rear end gears for towing? All that does is to put the torque load back on the tranny. When I bought my K3500 dually. my gear choice was 4:10 or 4:56 with the HD towing package. THX, LG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S. Quentin Quale, Esq. SASS 9953 Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 Look at the sticker in your truck pillar. It should list the truck's gross combined weight rating (gcwr). Take your truck to a scale and weigh it. The difference between those two numbers is how much legal capacity you have left for towing. Now subtract 500 to 1000 lbs to allow for guns, gear, water, passengers, fuel etc. that will tell you what's left for actual trailer weight. DON'T believe the salesperson most of them truly don't know and the rest will say anything to make a sale. Thank you for best, and most ignored, bit of wisdom in the world of towing. SQQ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD Trampas, SASS # 55781 Posted June 9, 2012 Author Share Posted June 9, 2012 Thanks for the replies, would have been back sooner but had a shoot today, did find a new trailer, a Wilderness, weighs 5,350 lbs dry, I'm really thinking of a trailer, thought of a pop up, but g/f said no plus I also look at a A-frame Rockwood by Forest River, I could deal with that to go to shoots but I got to think of the g/f and her needs plus it looks like the dog will go also, small 20 lb dog. I'm shopping right now but very interested, don't know a thing about trailers and pull weights for sure, don't want to trade truck to get bigger one to pull trailer, I know my 1/2 ton will pull stuff, just don't want to ruin anything that is why I ask here since I know quite a few have trailers and travel. As for bumper hitch, wrong thing to say I guess, it has the built in hitch from GM that sits below the bumper with the plug in for trailers, I know about the weight distribution hitch, the dealer quoated $695 and $175 for brake controller. I know I want one, I want to go to some out of state shoots and I won't do hotels, just trying to be smart about this and not buy a trailer that my truck won't pull, my dad did that 20 years ago, ended up getting a different truck, I won't do that. All for now JD Trampas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD Trampas, SASS # 55781 Posted June 9, 2012 Author Share Posted June 9, 2012 The Wilderness I'm looking at is built by Heartland out of Elkhart In I believe, the model is the WD 2750 RL, it has the floor plan I like, rear bedroom, plenty of room, 1 slide, dual axles which are spaced apart, dealer said it would be better towning because of chuck holes etc etc, it's called wide trax, now I don't know anything about this, it's only a 2 way fridge, gas and electric, most places I will stay at will have electric, I know I have to get a generator also, another expense. If anybody wants to check this out go here www.heartlandrvs.com, it shows all the models plus the one I'm interested in, g/f hasn't seen it yet, but I'm sure she will be pleased, full bathroom, walk a round bed and few other things, this dealer is 1 hour away from me, but has a good reputation for service and dealings. All for now JD Trampas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W. D. Pickett Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 To figure out what you can tow safely (legally might be something different) here is what you do: 1. Look in the manual that came with the vehicle or if it is missing, the call the Manufacturer and find out what weight rating the truck has. Now, there is a GVWR which is the maximum that the vehicle/trailer/cargo can weigh. Load the truck up as you would if you were going to go camping, including any cargo, people, fuel, etc. Take it to a public scale and have it weighed. Subtract that number from the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) and that is the TOTAL amount the trailer can weigh. This includes, as others have said, water, cargo (food, clothes, guns, ammo, pots pans, and so on). 2. Another thing to figure in is how much weight is your rear axle rated for. Truck should have a sticker on it telling you the maximum the axle can carry. Again, as others have said, printed weights are empty and dry! Tongue weight is for an empty trailer. Once you add on the weight of full propane bottles, battery, cargo, etc. the tongue weight will go up. 3. Don't fall for the old stupid and dangerous line, "Your truck can pull that trailer without a problem". Well it can't if the trailer is too heavy. Sure, you might be able to move the trailer, but... One, the trailer can wind up pushing the truck all over the road. Two, the brakes are rated for a certain amount and if you exceed it, then you are asking for trouble. Three, try to control the works in an emergency situtation. Four, if you are invovled in an accident, your insurance company may not cover you due to you exceeding your vehicle's capability. Just some food for thought since I have towed for awhile now.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Original Lumpy Gritz Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 Get the largest fresh water tank you can find for your trailer. You will be surprised how much H2O you will use. My Lance camper has a 50 gal tank(YES 50)for fresh water. Lance put it in special for me when the camper was built. I still bring extra. My Grey and Black tanks are 35 gal each. You don't want to find a dump station in the middle of a shoot. I also have 3 large solar panels on top. Look into solar panels to keep the battery alive and if you get AC(you should)Honda makes the EU2000i portable gennys that are GREAT and super QUITE. http://www.wisesales.com/eu2000i-companion-package-honda-generator.html This IS a great outfit to deal with! Do your research...... Good luck LG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Granny Annie SASS #37063 Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 I looked at your floor plan and it looks really nice. Something that has always been important for us is that you can get to the refrigerator and the bathroom without putting out the slide. It's nice to stop at a rest area or fuel stop and be able to fix lunch or use the "facilities." "Facilities" on the road can be scary at best! You might try looking at Countryside RV which is just about 2 miles straight east of our range. He seems to always have a very good price and they take excellent care of their customers. We've bought three from him now and Tony Orr bought his there too. Do be careful about what they say is "pullable with a half ton." (My only complaint with Countryside.) Our first rig could be pulled with the half ton -- if you were going straight on a flat road. Hills were a real problem and we ended up buying the white tonner which we traded for our 3/4 T Chevy Silverado Duramax/Allison which will pull anything we hook to it. You will have so much fun with your new rig. And, you're always welcome to camp at our place the day before or after the match. We've got two fellows camping up there right now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rio Brazos Kid Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 that is so inaccurate STOPPiNG IS FAR MORE IMPORTANT then pulling THat's some more BS. A trailer has it's own brakes. Properly set up you won't hardly notice any breaking problems/difficulty's. I have pulled many trailer loads that weighed well over 5000 lbs, but had working brakes. There is little if any noticeable difference in breaking. Pulled many loads with a common Expedition that had a trailer package and an Automatic Transmission, and a 4.6 liter engine. When getting in hilly country, simply lock out the overdrive and it will pull the hills just fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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