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Posted

The gap from the back of the cylinder to the recoil shield will be helpful, the front of the cylinder to the frame not so much. If you have a set of feeler gauges then measure the gap between the front of the cylinder and the forcing cone. It should be in the .004 to .006 range. If you measure the amount of forward/backward movement of the cylinder, that would also be helpful.

Posted (edited)

Your caliper is going to be less than accurate using it the way pictured.  Like El Sobrante said, use a set of feeler gauges to check the gaps.

 

Show us a picture or two of the back of the cylinder, preferably one empty and one with cartridges in it. 
 

 

Edited by Blackwater 53393
Posted
6 hours ago, Blackwater 53393 said:

Your caliper is going to be less than accurate using it the way pictured.  Like El Sobrante said, use a set of feeler gauges to check the gaps.

 

Show us a picture or two of the back of the cylinder, preferably one empty and one with cartridges in it. 
 

 


I unfortunately lack a set of feeler guages.

 

However here is the back of the cylinder:

 

IMG_3489.thumb.jpeg.6092ce6056cd0637088750ec211f84cd.jpeg

 

With cartridges:

 

IMG_3491.thumb.jpeg.715a44cf372b76cee9d2ff4becf37348.jpegIMG_3492.thumb.jpeg.1473ab8707bc8ce49843a9aeb733485e.jpeg

 

When removed from the revolver, the cartridges just drop right in, no push required, however they do not drop free on their own generally, they require a gentel tap on the bullet nose first.  Here is a picture of the cylinder upside down, note the cartridges are still inside:

 

IMG_3490.thumb.jpeg.ddcb5c25c16fd4abaa06c73d60017c8c.jpeg

 

Here is the full face if the recoil shield:

 

IMG_3496.thumb.jpeg.cc2a0c8e5fc08a506738ebb5d163e032.jpeg

 

Other than around the firing pin hole I feel no burs.  However I do notice a shiny wear spot on the nose of the hand.

Posted

A fingernail file or sanding stick would probably take that burr off. I've even dropped a drill bit butt end first to peen it back in place. Just don't get carried away. 

 

 

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Posted (edited)

Looking at your picture of the cartridges in the cylinder, it appears that they are NOT all the way in the chambers. Looks like there’s an air gap between the rim of the cartridges and the face of the cylinder.

 

I took some fired cartridges and measured the rim thickness. The Starline rims were .055” thick and the Winchester were .057.  Using the depth gauge on my mic, I found that this was the same measurement from the face of my cylinder to the top of the cartridge face.

 

Look at the photo below. There’s no air gap between the rims of the cartridges and the face of my cylinder.

IMG_0676.jpeg
 

 

IMG_0677.jpeg

 

 

Edited by Blackwater 53393
Posted

After comparing your pictures to mine, it also appears that the rim thickness of your cartridges is greater than those in my picture. Between the bur in your firing pin hole and thicker cartridge rims, you may have the answer to your issue!

 

Good luck! I think you’ll get it worked out fairly quickly and easily!

Posted

The scratches on the head face also look consistent with the burr on the firing pins hole.

  • Like 1
Posted
5 hours ago, Blackwater 53393 said:

After comparing your pictures to mine, it also appears that the rim thickness of your cartridges is greater than those in my picture. Between the bur in your firing pin hole and thicker cartridge rims, you may have the answer to your issue!

 

Good luck! I think you’ll get it worked out fairly quickly and easily!


I just measured the rims with a caliper, they are coming in at 0.059 and 0.060.

Posted

I’ve ordered three different sets of feeler gauges, they are scheduled for delivery late this evening.  I’ll update once I get them.

 

I might have to stack some together though to get a correct measure as they are a bit thinner than I would have liked.

Posted
1 hour ago, 9245 said:

I’ve ordered three different sets of feeler gauges, they are scheduled for delivery late this evening.  I’ll update once I get them.

 

I might have to stack some together though to get a correct measure as they are a bit thinner than I would have liked.

You really only need to measure the gap between the cylinder face and back of the barrel...  s/b be between .003" & .007".  You can use your caliper to measure between the face of the recoil shield and the back of the barrel.  Then measure the length of the cylinder from face of the cylinder to the back of the cylinder (not including the ratchet).  Make sure to do this for each chamber.  Add the cylinder/barrel gap & the difference should net you the allowable space for your cartridge rims.  

Posted (edited)

Take your cylinder only to your ammo getting place and have the salesman drop in ammo of different brands to see what fits. Get some loose ammo and your problems will go away. 

 

New Starline brass. 38WCF but same problem. 

 

1943193774_38WCFcasesincylinder1May2020.jpg.12a980ae108f3f281c3c53c131b26bd1.jpg

Edited by Warden Callaway
Posted

I have several of the CBC brass, mine have a cannelure on them and do not chamber in my 44-40 pistols well at all. I quit using them. My 44-40 pistols have had the correct reamer used and the chambers are fine in them. I can use those brass in some of my rifles but not all.

 Try putting one of those CBC in your pistol and turn the cylinder as if you are checking for a high primer. I'm guessing it will hang up before it goes all the way around.

kR

Posted

Eureka!  I think I fixed it.  About 30 seconds with a diamond Jewlers file took off the bur, it could still use a polish with the India stone to remove the last tiny bit of stickiness, but it now cycles fully with cases inserted, just a tiny amount of stickiness left that I will work out with the polishing stone, I’m hesitant to go any farther with the file.

  • Like 2
Posted
7 hours ago, 9245 said:

Eureka!  I think I fixed it.  About 30 seconds with a diamond Jewlers file took off the bur, it could still use a polish with the India stone to remove the last tiny bit of stickiness, but it now cycles fully with cases inserted, just a tiny amount of stickiness left that I will work out with the polishing stone, I’m hesitant to go any farther with the file.

Wrap a section of 400grit wet or dry sand paper around a flat popsicle stick.. 

Add a drop or two of WD-40 to the paper and work the firing pin area back and forth a dozen times. Wipe clean and see how it cycles. 

Posted
On 12/14/2024 at 7:54 AM, Badlands Bob #61228 said:

Reassemble it and take it back to Bass Pro and trade it in on a Ruger New Vaquero in .357 magnum.  Your life will be much simpler.


Perhaps a “tongue in cheek” response but being a long time Ruger shooter who added a pair of Piettas to the stable that have needed tweaking and repair more than once, “you ain’t wrong”.

 

I am reminded of the time I asked other shooters how to resolve an issue I had with my Hornady progressive press and the answer was “buy a Dillon”.  Luckily I am not thin skinned.

  • Haha 1
Posted
3 hours ago, Abe E.S. Corpus SASS #87667 said:

 

I am reminded of the time I asked other shooters how to resolve an issue I had with my Hornady progressive press and the answer was “buy a Dillon”.  Luckily I am not thin skinned.

They ain't wrong :lol:

  • Haha 2
Posted

We went into a Bass Pro in O'Fallon MO years back. We spotted a Uberti Cattleman all beat to xxxx. I assumed it was used and made them a low-ball offer.  No. It was new and couldn't discount the price. The salesman said every evening after close a bunch of high-school kids come in to clean. One job was to clear out all the guns out on display and put them in the vault. Said they just dump them into shopping carts. 

  • Sad 3
Posted

Not that it makes much difference now, but I finally got my feeler gauges (3 days late) and my barrel to cylinder gap is 0.007 and the gap from the back of the cylinder to the recoil shield is 0.064.

Posted
16 minutes ago, 9245 said:

Not that it makes much difference now, but I finally got my feeler gauges (3 days late) and my barrel to cylinder gap is 0.007 and the gap from the back of the cylinder to the recoil shield is 0.064.

You're GTG.;)

Posted
2 hours ago, 9245 said:

Not that it makes much difference now, but I finally got my feeler gauges (3 days late) and my barrel to cylinder gap is 0.007 and the gap from the back of the cylinder to the recoil shield is 0.064.

 

Sounds like you have things pretty much under control, congratulations. The cylinder gap is only slightly on the high side, but not a big deal. One more thing you can check, if you are interested, is the End Shake. With one hand/finger push the cylinder forward as far as you can and measure the barrel/cylinder gap. Next, push the cylinder all that way to the rear as far as you can and measure the gap again. Let us know what the two measurements are.

Posted
12 minutes ago, El Sobrante Kid said:

 

Sounds like you have things pretty much under control, congratulations. The cylinder gap is only slightly on the high side, but not a big deal. One more thing you can check, if you are interested, is the End Shake. With one hand/finger push the cylinder forward as far as you can and measure the barrel/cylinder gap. Next, push the cylinder all that way to the rear as far as you can and measure the gap again. Let us know what the two measurements are.


Hammer down or back?

Posted
49 minutes ago, 9245 said:


Hammer down or back?

I would think half cock so the bolt isn't holding the cylinder in place.

  • Like 1
Posted

My breach face after finishing with the India Stone:


IMG_3515.thumb.jpeg.f7395ec350c6282945f0b41df8b2e028.jpeg

 

IMG_3514.thumb.jpeg.ac2d6bd0c5c47adc06da4d157648d636.jpeg

 

A few more residual scratches than I would like, but now smooth to the touch.  It now cycles through completely with no hangups or stalls.  Only thing is when rotating the cylinder by hand I still feel some hesitation, but only on one particular chamber.  My assumption is that chamber may have been cut a thousandth or two short.  When cycling by hammer though no hesitation is felt.

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)
23 hours ago, 9245 said:

My breach face after finishing with the India Stone:


IMG_3515.thumb.jpeg.f7395ec350c6282945f0b41df8b2e028.jpeg

 

IMG_3514.thumb.jpeg.ac2d6bd0c5c47adc06da4d157648d636.jpeg

 

A few more residual scratches than I would like, but now smooth to the touch.  It now cycles through completely with no hangups or stalls.  Only thing is when rotating the cylinder by hand I still feel some hesitation, but only on one particular chamber.  My assumption is that chamber may have been cut a thousandth or two short.  When cycling by hammer though no hesitation is felt.

Check to make sure it is one chamber and not one cartridge. Mark the one that drags then swap the cartridges around and check again. If it is one chamber try cleaning it really good then check it again.

kR

 

 

Edited by PaleWolf Brunelle, #2495L
edit txt
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